Givhans Ferry State Park & the Edisto River

 As correspondent to the South Carolina 7 Wonders expedition for family website Kidding Around Greenville, our family had the opportunity to explore the Lowcountry, including the Edisto River area and Givhans Ferry State Park. What we found is that not only is the Edisto deserving of the title 5^th Wonder of South Carolina, but together with the surrounding area makes a unique destination for a family weekend in the Lowcountry!

Edisto slough

The Edisto River is the longest, free-flowing, blackwater river in North America, the water appearing tea-like from the tannins released by decaying vegetation. Blackwater rivers such as the Edisto are typically slow-moving waterways that flow through forests, swamps, or wetlands. From the spring-fed headwaters in the central Sandhills, the Edisto flows through the heart of old-growth stands of tupelo-cypress forests to the rich estuary of the ACE Basin.

Edisto River’s name originated from the word edisto, a Native American term that means “black.” It was most likely named as such by the Edisto Tribe, a member of the Cusabo family of tribes that lived along the river in present-day Edisto Island and surrounding Charleston and Colleton counties. This tribe disappeared from the area in the early 1700s as a result of disease and warfare, however, the Kusso-Natchez Tribe adopted Edisto Indian Organization as their new name in the 1960s in honor of their ancestral settlements along the river in present-day Dorchester and Colleton counties, and communities of their descendants live there today.

Paddle the Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail

There are many ways to experience the Edisto, but one of the best ways to explore it is from the water: by kayak, canoe or tube. The Edisto is a paddler’s paradise, with 62 of its 250 miles officially part of the Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail (ERCKT), and among a multitude of public and private camping and access points to the ERCKT are two state parks, Colleton and Givhans Ferry. Both offer camping & picnicking sites and have convenient launch sites for an Edisto paddle – it is 23 miles from one park to the other via the river.

Givhans Ferry Canoe launch

For maps, river access points and more information, check out the ERCKT website.

Go fishing, hiking or tubing at Givhans Ferry State Park

Givhans Ferry State Park is one of 16 SC State Parks built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, including its 4 cabins and Riverfront Hall on a bluff overlooking the river. It is the closest park to Charleston with overnight facilities, and also has 25 full-service campsites and 2 picnic shelters. Both Givhans Ferry and Colleton participate in the SC Dept. of Natural Resources sponsored Tackle Loaner Program, with rods and reels available for loan at the park office. With a valid SC fishing license, your family can fish the Edisto for flathead, catfish, bass and eel.

The Park also offers hiking, with the 1.5-mile River Bluff Nature Trail boasting scenic views and opportunities to birdwatch, bike and geocache. It is a very short walk down to the kayak launch, where there is a small beach area and riverfront. Although there are no lifeguards on duty, the Edisto access is very popular with families looking to cool off during the hot summer months. For admission information, please visit the SC State Parks website.

A favorite Givhans Ferry activity is tubing with Edisto River Adventures. After launching from the kayak launch, you’ll float the two miles to the Edisto River Adventures take-out where you can play a game of sand volleyball or cornhole, picnic, and utilize the changing rooms before the drive home. For more information and pricing, please visit the Edisto River Adventures website.

Discover the wildlife of Audubon Beidler Forest

Another great way to experience the area is with a visit to Francis Beidler Forest, the 18,000-acre bird and wildlife sanctuary in the South Carolina Lowcountry. Beidler is the world’s largest virgin cypress-tupelo swamp forest, home to thousand-year-old trees and a wide range of wildlife. It is a great place to visit for families, as the entire 1.75-mile trail is a boardwalk: easy to follow, and provides safe viewing of wildlife without getting muddy or wet. On our recent visit we saw numerous lizards and snakes, as well as birds of all sizes, even in the heat of a summer afternoon!

Tickets are required for boardwalk admission, and the Center’s hours are currently limited; please visit the website for more information. The second Saturday of every month is free admission, or if unable to register for a walk on the boardwalk, there is the new Grasslands-Woodland Trails near the entrance to the center instead that doesn’t require tickets. You can follow Beidler on Instagram and Facebook for a virtual look at the Sanctuary and the animals that call it home!

For the adventurous kayaking the ERCK Trail to Givhans Ferry, a short side trip will take you to the confluence of the Edisto River and Four Holes Swamp in Beidler Forest; keep your eyes open for wild turkey, beaver, kingfisher, great blue heron and egrets along the way!

An uncertain future

In 2014 the South Fork of the Edisto appeared in America’s Most Endangered Rivers report, and the year after that Edisto was added as well. As the state’s most heavily used river for irrigation, excessive water withdrawals continue to be a major threat; lower water levels allow sunlight to penetrate further into the water, allowing for more vegetation in the water as well as algae blooms, as well as causes salt water to encroach higher upstream.

Together with the Ashepoo and Combahee Rivers, the Edisto is part of the ACE Basin. More than 130,000 acres of land have been protected through public/private partnerships in the heart of the ACE Basin, and organizations such as American Rivers continue to work to provide sustainable water supplies for all, while supporting river health and recreation on the Edisto and neighboring rivers.

The South Carolina State Parks such as Givhans Ferry and Colleton are excellent places for us to learn more about these unique ecosystems of South Carolina, including the black waters of the Edisto. It is easier to protect the places that we know and love, and the opportunity to get our families outside and to be active in these beautiful places is a blessing. I hope you’ll enjoy discovering the beauty of this area of South Carolina as much as our family has!

Have you ever been swimming in a blackwater river? Please let us know what your family’ s favorite place to visit on the Edisto River is!

This post first appeared on Kidding Around Greenville in conjunction with the South Carolina 7 Expedition as Givhans Ferry State Park & the Edisto River: Things to do at the 5th Wonder of SC.

Your Guide to the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is really not one trail at all; it is a network of them, stitched together from the trail systems and roads that criss-cross the state. The nearly-continuous passageway stretches from Oconee State Park in the Upstate Foothills, to its low-country terminus at Awendaw and Buck Hall on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, it is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail. Today 350 of the proposed 500 miles of trail have been completed!

By offering 26 passages ranging from 1.3 to 47 miles, with easy, moderate, and strenuous levels of difficulty, the Palmetto Trail is accessible for day trips, weekend excursions, and longer treks. The entire Palmetto Trail is open to hiking and backpacking, but designated sections are available for biking, horseback riding and camping. Whether thru-hiking, or just out for a stroll, the trail explores the rich diversity and fascinating history, culture, and geography of the Palmetto State.

The goals of the Palmetto Trail (according to the Palmetto Trail Conservancy) are to:

• Showcase conservation and preservation from mountains to sea
• Provide free public access to active, healthy outdoor recreation
• Foster tourism, business, and economic development 

THE PASSAGES (from NW to SE)

Stumphouse Passage: 1.5 mile hiking trail and 9.34 mile mountain bike park

The Stumphouse Mountain Passage is the newest addition to the Palmetto Trail. It begins in Sumter National Forest at the Stumphouse Tunnel Park in Oconee County’s Walhalla. Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel is an incomplete railroad tunnel for the Blue Ridge Railroad of South Carolina, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. The park is also home to Issaqueena Falls.

Ross Mountain: 5.0 miles

The newest passage to be completed along the Palmetto Trail, this passage connects the Stumphouse Passage to Oconee State Park.

Oconee Passage: 3.2 miles

This Passage begins in Oconee State Park and ends at Oconee Station State Historical Site, a backcountry military garrison and trading post from the 1790s. Make sure to visit Station Cove Falls on the way! Intersections with the Foothills Trail and Tamassee Knob Trail allow easy access to Hidden Falls and Tamassee Knob in Oconee State Park.

A ¼ mile spur trail from the Oconee Passage leads to Station Cove Falls

Eastatoe Passage: 4.6 miles

Starting in Keowee Toxaway State Park on Natural Bridge Trail, this Passage travels along Eastatoe Creek upstream from Lake Keowee and climbs through mountain forest in the acclaimed Jocassee Gorges with its abundance of flowers, birds and wildlife. Two new bridges including the Zeke wilderness trail bridge were recently opened to the public and are destinations in themselves!

Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage (Jocassee Gorges): 12.3 miles

This section of the Palmetto Trail offers a view of the remote and rugged Jocassee Gorges area, with it abundance of wildflowers and wildlife, mountaintop vistas, and waterfalls. The Passage starts in Table Rock State Park, which boasts stunning trails such as the Pinnacle Mountain, Carrick Creek and Table Rock Trails. The Foothills Trail can also be accessed from the Park.

Roundtop Mountain: 5.9 miles

Connecting the Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage to the Foothills Trail and Sassafras Mountain, this section creates opportunities for circular hikes in the Jocassee Gorges wilderness in Pickens County. 

Middle Saluda Passage: 10.9 miles

With its waterfalls and challenging elevation, this passage connects about 14 miles of existing trails in the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area of Jones Gap and Caesars Head State Parks. Highlights include Hospital Rock, Rainbow Falls, and 420-foot Raven Cliff Falls. Camp in Jones Gap State Park, or continue beyond Hospital Rock to Falls Creek Falls for an added 2½ miles. (For more on Jones Gap Falls: click here)'

Rainbow Falls, as seen from spur trail

Saluda Mountains Passage: 9.1 miles

The Saluda Mountains Passage runs along the ridge dividing the Carolinas, with the Poinsett Watershed to the south. The 19,000-acre watershed is a pristine wilderness area providing habitat for multiple rare plants and animals, including the threatened Peregrine falcon.

Poinsett Reservoir Passage: 6.6 miles

Poinsett Reservoir Passage travels the mountain ridges along the northern boundary of Poinsett Watershed. This pristine watershed of 19,000 acres contains the headwaters feeding Poinsett Reservoir of the Greenville Water System.

Blue Wall Passage: 14 miles

The Blue Wall Passage is home to a wide array of wildlife, stunning scenery including a 30-foot cascading waterfall, and 100+ species of birds. The eastern trailhead is located in the Foothills Equestrian Nature Center (FENCE), and country roads and sidewalks wind through Landrum and around lovely Lake Lanier before entering the Blue Wall Preserve and climbing the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment to Vaughns Gap.

View of Hogback Mountain from Blue Wall Passage

Peach Country Passage: 14.1 miles

The numerous peach orchards of the region are spectacular when blooming, which is why cycling the Peach Country Passage along the back roads from Inman to Landrum brings such joy in the spring. The passage traverses mostly lightly traveled gravel roads, except for a quarter mile on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC Hwy 11) near Campobello.

USC Upstate Passage: 1.3 miles

This short passage begins on the campus of the University of South Carolina Upstate campus in Spartanburg, SC, and descends through the woods to Lawson’s Fork Creek.

Hub City Connector: 12 miles

The Connector includes sections of greenways, bicycle lanes, and safe, signed sidewalks through the city of Spartanburg, traveling along the Mary Black Foundation Rail Trail and through Liberty Garden, and connecting the School for the Deaf and Blind, with downtown, Converse College, Wofford College, Spartanburg Regional Heart Center, Spartanburg Medical Center, and USC Upstate. Trail spurs include Chinquapin Greenway, a 1.6-mile trail spur located at the city’s northern gateway.

Croft Passage: 12.6 miles

In the 1700s, the area that today is part of Croft State Park was a hotbed of mills, trading, and political activity centered around the shoals. There was a Revolutionary militia victory at the First Battle of Cedar Springs in 1780, and during World War II it served as an Army training center.

Glenn Springs Passage: 7 miles

Rolling farmlands, mature forests, and the historic town of Glenn Springs highlight the Glenn Springs Passage. In the 19^th century, Glenn Springs was known for the health benefits of its mineral waters. Now listed in the National Register, the historic district includes 20 historic buildings from about 1840 to 1940 and the site of a popular resort hotel.

Blackstock Battlefield Passage: 4 miles

Enjoy four miles of nature trails, camping, and mountain biking along the Tyger River at the site where Revolutionary War patriots defeated the British; on November 20, 1780, patriot militia fighting under Gen. Thomas Sumter prevailed over British regulars under Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton. Two months later Tarleton lost the Battle of Cowpens and fled north with his remaining troops.

Life on the Enoree

Enoree Passage: 36 miles

Hike or bike the 36 miles of trail through Sumter National Forest linking Newberry, Laurens and Union counties. The trail meanders through the diverse habitats located in the Enoree Ranger District and River corridor, while Macedonia, Sedalia, and John’s Creek lakes provide plenty of opportunities to fish on the way to the northern trailhead at Sedalia Campground.

Lynch’s Woods Passage: 4.9 miles

This Park is a well-kept secret just outside of Newberry. Created by the 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps, the park protects 276 acres of woodlands full of old-growth hardwoods and the rambling Rock Branch Creek and tributaries, and allows hiking, cycling and horseback riding. 

Newberry Passage: 11 miles

The Newberry Passage is one of three urban passages on the trail, taking you through the heart of Historic Downtown Newberry and showcasing a number of historical and cultural points of interest.

Peak to Prosperity Passage: 10.8 miles

The highlight of this section of trail is the impressive 1,100-foot-long Broad River trestle. From there the former railway follows Crims Creek west through the Dutch Fork area to Pomaria and Interstate 26. Read more about this Passage here.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the Broad River between Peak and Prosperity

Capital City Passage: 10.2 miles

The first urban passage on the Palmetto Trail features South Carolina’s largest city and seat of state government. The passage follows city sidewalks through Columbia’s neighborhoods, past city parks and schools, along the historic Horseshoe at the University of South Carolina, and across the steps of the State Capitol. The passage links Fort Jackson Passage to Riverfront Park and the Broad River.

Fort Jackson Passage: 16.2 miles

Fort Jackson Passage takes you through the heart and into the woods of this military facility located just east of Columbia, SC. Fort Jackson was established in 1917 in preparation for WWI, named in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson. At 52,000 acres, it’s the Army’s largest basic training center.

Wateree Passage: 11.4 miles

One of the most diverse sections of the Palmetto, this portion of the trail crosses swamps and hills on its way from Poinsett State Park then through the SCE&G property to Hwy 601. Passing through a section of Manchester State Forest traveling along the remnants of the old SC Railroad through Sumter Junction, it crosses over the Wateree River and Molly’s Bluff - elevation 260 feet – with excellent views across Wateree swamp.

High Hills of Santee Passage: 9.4 miles

Named for the high, sandy ridges that are part of the Sandhills geographical region, these rolling hills are the remains of an ancient ocean shoreline found in the Carolinas and Georgia. Over time, the beach sand and shells transformed into coquina, which can be seen today throughout the park. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps used the native stone to build many structures in the park. Birdwatching includes the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker.

Lake Marion Passage: 33.6 miles

This passage skirts along the north side of Lake Marion between Santee and Mill Creek County Park. A short side trip down Fort Watson Road leads to the site of ancient Santee Indian burial mounds (3,500 years old); the site is now part of Santee National Wildlife Refuge.

Santee Passage: 12.7 miles

This passage utilizes the dirt roads and rural highways of Orangeburg County, traveling through farmlands to the town of Santee.

Eutaw Springs Passage: 21.3 miles

From the site of the Revolutionary War Battle of Eutaw Springs to downtown Eutawville, with a 5-mile spur trail that connects to Santee-Cooper Wildlife Management Refuge and Lake Marion.

Lake Moultrie Passage: 26.9 miles

Hugging the eastern and northern shores of 60,000-acre Lake Moultrie, the views make this a popular passage for mountain bikers. Following levees and service roads, the trail crosses the Santee Canal and traverses the swamps around Bulltown Bay.

Swamp Fox Passage: 47.2 miles

This passage named for Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion is the Palmetto Trail’s longest. From the swamps of Francis Marion National Forest, to long-leaf pine forests that are home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, from the grassy savannas near Dog Swamp and Turkey Creek, to Wadboo Swamp; three trailheads provide users with plenty of options! Just make sure to bring plenty of water, as there is only one water source on the Swamp Fox Passage at the Ranger Station off Steed Creek Road.

Awendaw Passage: 7.1 miles

The coastal terminus of the mountains-to-sea Palmetto Trail, the Trail’s namesake trees greet users at the Buck Hall Recreation Area trailhead. Starting at the Intracoastal Waterway, the Trail meanders westward through maritime forest and offers sweeping vistas of Lowcountry salt marsh along Awendaw Creek. At Walnut Grove, look for a scenic overlook and boardwalk. A canoe launch for Awendaw Creek is located at the end of Rosa Green Road.

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One way to see the trail is during the Annual Palmetto Trail Challenge. Each year, Palmetto Conservation Foundation hosts The Palmetto Challenge to inspire teams of two, three, or four to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 9 and April 26; more information can be found here.

If you want to see the state - really get out there and experience what South Carolina has to offer - the Palmetto Trail is the way to go! As Palmetto Conservation puts it: “Backcountry. Rails-to-Trail. Greenways. City sidewalks. Urban bikeways. Steps of the State Capitol. Bridle. (The trail) connects state and county parks, national forests, nature preserves, wildlife management areas, Revolutionary War battlefields, Native American paths, urban to rural, swamps to mountains, maritime to sandhills to piedmont, and much more…"

Well, what are you waiting for? You've got 350 miles to go!!!

King Creek Falls and Burrells Ford

Despite being in a remote corner of the state, Burrells Ford remains a crossroads: historical and natural. The old wagon road (and later logging road) that forded the Chattooga was replaced with gravel Forest Service Road 708 (FS 708 or Burrels Ford Road) in 1968, allowing access to the section of the state bordering Georgia and North Carolina. Here the Foothills Trail intersects with the Chattooga Trail and East Fork Trail. Ellicott Rock Wilderness overlaps the Wild & Scenic Chattooga River corridor. Spur trails to Burrells Ford and Spoonauger Falls depart from multiple trailheads. And three National Forests - the Chattahoochee-Oconee, Nantahala, and Andrew Pickens ranger district of Sumter National Forest – converge to form one giant natural area.

Kings Creek Falls

  

But the region remains wild. Isolated, winding mountain roads require 1 ½ hours driving time to reach the campground from Greenville, including the last 3 on gravel Burrells Ford Road. At one point those wishing to camp at the Burrells Ford campground could drive right to their campsite, but all that changed when the Chattooga River received the “Wild & Scenic” designation in 1974. Now parking is in a lot just off the gravel road, and requires a ½ mile hike down the old road bed to reach the campground.

The confluence of trails can provide some confusion, and the mileages can be hard to pin down. There are two parking areas: one for the campground, and a second closer to the Chattooga on the edge of Ellicott Rock Wilderness. The Chattooga Trail (blazed green) stays along the river through the campground and emerges at this second parking area, while the Foothills Trail (blazed white) curves away from the river south of the campground and emerges adjacent to the campground parking area. There are several connector trails from the Foothills Trail to the Chattooga Trail, as well as additional spur trails to the waterfalls. Add in to that East Fork Trail leading to the only other road in this corner of the state (Fish Hatchery Road), and the horrible map posted at the trailheads, and you have an idea of why you need to come prepared with a good map if you’re planning on doing any hiking. We used National Geographic’s Sumter National Forest map on our Chattooga Trail hike, but later I utilized a Forest Service map to make a more detailed version of the campground area, as seen here.

Map of Burrells Ford campground area, as adapted from USFS map

But pack enough for a weekend, and plan to explore. Park at the first parking area (for the campground), and follow the road down to the tent sites. You’ve got bear-proof trash receptacles near the restrooms (in reality pit toilets, but luxurious compared to the alternative), and picnic tables, lantern posts, fire rings & bear poles in each campground. Some of the sites are right along the Chattooga, while others are scattered through the woods. Remember to pack appropriately, as your return trip will be all uphill. The walk in possibly deters a portion of the car campers, and the campsites cannot be reserved ahead of time; plan accordingly.

From the campground take a hike to Ellicott Rock Wilderness following the Chattooga Trail; Ellicott Rock is about 4 miles north (one way), but scenic Spoonauger Falls is less than a mile. Or, head south on the Chattooga/Foothills Trail, destination Oconee State Park (16.4 miles), Ridley Fields (11.8 miles), the Bartram Trail junction (8.1 miles) or Cherry Hill campground (about 10 miles?). Of course you could just go ahead and hike the rest of the Foothills Trail - 59.8 miles to Table Rock State Park!

Another option is to stay in the campground; Burrells Ford is the gateway to some of the most premium trout water in the Southeast. The SC DNR stocks the river with rainbow, brown and native brook trout grown nearby at the Fish Hatchery. The river is easily accessed from Chattooga Trail and most of the campsites, and even in October the boys were happy to get their feet wet.

The high point of a stop at Burrells Ford is the proximity to two of the most picturesque waterfalls in South Carolina, King Creek Falls and Spoonauger Falls. King Creek Falls is just west of the campground, and is a 70 foot, tiered waterfall that is less than a mile, roundtrip (about 1.4 there and back if you're starting at the campground parking area).

If you are interested in reading more about the history of the area, the Rabun Chapter of Trout Unlimited posted this informative article about the Chattooga Coalition.

The US Forest Service Burrells Ford webpage is here. 

More on the Ellicott Rock Wilderness area…

…and my post on the Chattooga Trail is here.

Artesian springs in Lee State Park

We are slowly crossing off State Parks on our Ultimate Outsider list, the ultimate goal to visit all 47 state parks in South Carolina, but with the intent to take our time and enjoy each park. Last month we spent a couple of nights camping at Huntington Beach SP, but needed a stop on the way there to help break up the drive. As it turns out, Lee State Park is located not too far past Columbia, just before Florence, SC – only 2.5 hours from Greenville.

Artisan well at Lee State Park

Lee State Park is one of several Civilian Conservation Corps parks in the state, built in 1935 to provide recreational opportunities for the residents of Lee County on the shores of the Lynches River. Named for Thomas Lynch, Jr., signer of the Declaration of Independence, the headwaters of Lynches are in North Carolina near Waxhaw. From Lee SP it flows southeast into the Pee Dee, which in turns empties into the Waccamaw River just west of Brookgreen Gardens and Huntington Beach State Park – it would have been perfect if we could have just floated from Lee the rest of the way to the Atlantic instead of having to finish the drive.

While the favorite thing to do in Lee State park may be kayaking and canoeing through the park’s hardwood forest floodplain, we were drawn to the ponds created by the artesian wells near the Visitor Center. The wells tap into confined aquifers, the pressure of the water seeping in pumping water out of the well. The CCC drilled seven wells at Lee in the 1930s of which five are still operational.

Definitely walk down the 0.2 mile boardwalk and observe the aquatic wildlife that thrives in the surrounding waters. We saw a snake, frogs, and an assortment of birds. 144 species of birds have been documented in the Park.

For a longer hike, head out on the 5 mile Loop Road. Open to all traffic, the loop takes you around to the equestrian campground, the equestrian trails on the north end, and then back along the Lynches River. There are additional artisan wells along the way. A group area that is located adjacent to the show ring and stables is available for horse clubs and other equestrian groups to rent. Lynches is designated a State Scenic River, and unique wildlife seen in the bottomland forests include the endangered wood stork, marsh rabbits, and fox squirrels.

If you bring a picnic, head to one of the two historic CCC shelters. Be sure to stop in at the Visitor Center and stamp your Park passport, but while there pick up some of the excellent brochures featuring everything from the flora and fauna of the park, a scavenger hunt (which the boys enjoyed), to a CCC history brochure. Quite a few of the State Parks we visit have the CCC in their history, but fewer and fewer have surviving structures with the classic Conservation Corps architecture.

CCC constructed bridge at Lee State Park

Lee also offers a variety of educational programs; for more on the hikes and crafts (such as pine needle basket workshops), check the Park website.

History Comes Alive at Andrew Jackson State Park

Andrew Jackson State Park is so close to the NC border that it took a visit to Charlotte to get us there the first time. However, this educational destination is really just a little over two hours from Greenville, entertaining both the possibility of a one-day road trip, or a weekend tour if combined with a night at the campground. Jackson was the only U.S. president native to South Carolina, and he was born near the Upcountry, in Lancaster County.

View of the schoolhouse through the historic orchard

Be sure to start your Park tour at the Andrew Jackson Museum, where you’ll find Revolutionary War artifacts and relics related to the Park’s namesake and his presidency. Jackson was the 7^th President, elected in 1828 and remembered for winning the Battle of New Orleans against the British in the War of 1812. Through exhibits that portray life in the SC Carolina backcountry during the late 18th century, visitors can explore the impact of the Revolutionary War on the local communities and imagine what Jackson’s childhood was like. Watch a short movie, pick up a park map, and then head out to tour the rest of the park. (Museum hours are 1-5pm/weekends, or by appointment Monday through Friday)

In the museum...

Coming out from the Museum you’ll see the statue Boy of the Waxhaws. Noted American sculptress Anna Hyatt Huntington was the recipient of a letter campaign started in 1962 by the Lancaster County schoolchildren, asking for a statue honoring Andrew Jackson on the 200th anniversary of his birth. A gift to the children of South Carolina, the piece was finished when Huntington was 90 years old. Children from elementary schools throughout the state donated money to provide the base, and together with the statue weighs 25,000 pounds; the granite base bent the crane when it was being installed.

Huntington's Boy of the Waxhaws

“I have Jackson as a young man of sixteen or seventeen seated bareback on a farm horse, one hand leaning back on the horse's rump and looking off over his native hills, to wonder what the future holds for him.” –A. Huntington 

Side note... Horses figure prominently in Anna’s work; you’ll find another equine-themed piece (titled Fighting Stallions, 1950) at the entrance of Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet, the largest outdoor sculpture garden in the world. Brookgreen Gardens were established by the artist, and the winter home of Anna H. Huntington and her husband Archer Milton Huntington was just across the road; the couple donated this land to found another of South Carolina’s State Parks, Huntington Beach State Park. In the old Moorish castle Atalaya that is located within the park is a big chamber which functioned as her sculpting studio; it was complete with cages and chains to contain live animals such as horses & bears for study while she sculpted.

Beautifully aged picnic shelter

Originally ‘Waxhaws’ was the name given to an Indian tribe that lived in the area, while later it referred to the region of the Carolinas that included the counties of Chester, Lancaster & York along the Catawba River, and the western edge of Union County in NC.

On the steps of the schoolhouse

Also near the Museum are multiple sites of historic interest. Andrew Jackson State Park’s Historic Orchard and Herb Garden features fruit trees and herbs that were sources of food, flavorings, dyes and medicines in the Carolina Backcountry during the late 18th century. An 18th-century replica schoolhouse is open for lessons mid-March to November, 1-5pm Saturdays and 2-5pm Sundays. And next to the schoolhouse is a Carolina Fence Garden, which incorporates natural and cultural elements that have been designated symbols of our state.

In addition, the 360-acre State Park contains a large lake. It is open to fishing with a SC fishing license; try your luck from the banks of the 18-acre lake, from the fishing pier, or rent a boat. You can bring your own boat, however gasoline motors are not allowed on the lake – see park website for more information. Swimming is not permitted.

On the list of must-do things at the Park is the 1-mile loop trail that circles the lake, Garden of the Waxhaws Trail. On a recent visit the redbuds and trout lilies were blooming, and we observed various migratory birds and other wildlife while on our hike. Another trail, the Crawford Trail, takes visitors on a 1-mile loop through the mixed oak, cedar and pine forest behind the Meeting House.

Trout lily and rue anemone on the Garden of the Waxhaws trail

A unique way to experience the park is during one of their annual events. Every year in March there is a birthday celebration (this year was Andrew Jackson's 251st birthday) with traditional artisans, militia demonstrations, museum tours and colonial games for the kids. In fall, visit to view the endangered Schwientz's Sunflower in bloom. Then in November join costumed volunteers for the annual ‘Life in the Waxhaws Lantern Tour’ with storytelling, demonstrations and a 30-minute lantern tour of the park.

A playground, amphitheater, campground and picnic facilities, as well as the living history programs are numerous additional reasons to visit this intriguing midlands State Park. To round out your Andrew Jackson itinerary, visit the Old Waxhaw Presbyterian Church cemetery five miles to the southwest of the park; this is the church that Andrew Jackson attended, and his father and two of his brothers are buried there. Or continue on to Landsford Canal State Park, where visitors can view the well-preserved remains of a canal system to bypass shoals on the Catawba River. Whatever your motivation in visiting this corner of the state may be, know that a stop at Andrew Jackson State Park will offer a fascinating glimpse into the life and times of our 7^th President, as well as showcase the natural beauty of the midlands of our state.

Croft State Park

Croft State Park might best be known for the horseback riding and mountain biking trails that zigzag its 7,000 acres, but once you’ve fished one of the two lakes, hiked on the 12-mile trail system, or set up a tent in the campground, you’ll discover that this versatile State Park just five miles from downtown Spartanburg is a perfect day-trip destination!

We most often visit Croft in the autumn when cooler temperatures make hiking more enjoyable, and as the forest is predominantly hardwoods, the fall foliage can be quite colorful. This autumn color often stretches into November, being as the park is further south than its Upstate counterparts. 

A short history:

The area was once home to a farming community, and old farmsteads and cemeteries can be found throughout the park. Whitestone Springs was a tourist attraction in the late 1800’s, and the foundation of a 4 story hotel still exists in the park today, along with evidence of the bottling business that was fed by the spring. During WWII the park became an Army infantry training camp that housed 250,000 soldiers. The camp was closed in 1947, and after two years was opened to the public as a park; today it is one of the largest State Parks in SC.

Getting there:

There are multiple entrances into the park that are connected with the network of trails. Lake Johnson on the north side and the Southside Parking lot are not accessible from Park Road (the main road that leads into the park from Dairy Ridge Rd.) by car, so consult a map beforehand so that you know where you are headed. The camping area, the equestrian facilities, the park office and access to Lake Craig are all located off Park Road, as well the 1.5-mile Nature Trail, our favorite Croft trail.

Things to do:

Although all of the horse & bike trails are open to hiking, I find the terrain and length of Nature Trail challenging enough for my 3 year old, without the stress of equine encounters. Parking for this trail is available just adjacent to the horse show ring; directly across the road is the Fairforest Creek trailhead and the Nature Trail entrance just a few hundred feet further. The Nature Trail lollipop loop trail offers a stroll through an upland mixed pine and hardwood forest before descending to the rocky shoals of Fairforest Creek.

The headwaters of Fairforest Creek are up near the intersection of Interstates 85 and 26, and after flowing through Spartanburg and Croft SP it eventually becomes Fair Forest River before emptying into the Tyger River near Rose Hill Plantation State Historic Site. The creek is shallow and wide near the Nature Trail, with sandbars and large rocks that beg exploring; however, as with most rivers in the Upstate be warned that according to the State of SC “recreational uses are not supported at this site due to fecal coliform bacteria excursions.”

Upon emerging from the woods you’ll find yourself back at the Horse Show Ring. Horseback riding in South Carolina state parks is widely popular, and Croft is known around the region for its equestrian facilities and over 20 miles of trail open to horse traffic. The park regularly hosts shows in its arena, and has horse stalls available for those camping with horses.

Croft State Park also features 12.6 miles of the Palmetto Trail, the mountains-to-the-sea trail that will one day extend 425 miles from the Oconee County mountains to the Intracoastal Waterway in Charleston County. 

A visit to Croft isn’t complete without a stop at one of the two lakes. Fishing is allowed on Lake Craig and Lake Johnson, and canoes, kayaks and jon boats (as well as paddles and life jackets) are available for rent.

A children’s playground and picnic shelters are also centrally located within the park. Croft does have a shooting range; for more information on any of the amenities, please visit the Croft SP website or stop in at the Park Office!