Historic Newberry, a "most charming small town"

Newberry was recently named one of the "Most Charming Small Towns in America" by Travel Channel, as well as chosen as Day 14 of the South Carolina 7 expedition. As the Kidding Around Greenville SC7 correspondent, I joined the team on the trail to see what all the press is about!

At the very heart of downtown is the Newberry Opera House. Completed in 1882, the Opera House was designed as a place of entertainment for locals and as a seat of government for the city – including a fire engine room and three jail cells! Silent pictures were slowly replaced by movies, and in the 1920s it was renovated as a movie theater. But in 1952 the movie theater closed, and there was even talk of tearing it down; luckily the Newberry Historical Society stepped in, and in 1970 the building was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. After extensive renovations the Newberry Opera House was reopened for performances in 1998.

Newberry Opera House

However, in 2010 downtown Newberry was struggling in the wake of the large national recession. When the City took steps to begin a revitalization of downtown, to make it more pedestrian friendly and welcoming to visitors, the Opera remained at the center of it all. The location between the Greenville-Spartanburg corridor and Columbia makes it one of only a few venues in the Midlands/Piedmont, and musicians coming from Charleston often take the opportunity to get in one more show before heading north/west. Newberry has really capitalized on the unique location in regards to the arts, and today is a vibrant, old-fashioned town center that is a centerpiece for the community.

The Travel Channel praised Newberry as “a college town with lots of extras: lovely architecture, a historic Opera House, a winery where rocking chairs beckon from a big porch and world-class dining and drinking experiences. Nicknamed the ‘City of Friendly Folks,’ it’s been called one of the 100 best small towns in America.” The accolades are well-deserved, and Newberry has something for everyone… even for a cross-state expedition!

The Palmetto Trail

The South Carolina 7 Expedition has been using the Palmetto Trail as a backbone to its explorations, and on a sunny summer day I found myself “hiking” the Newberry Passage along with Lieutenant Governor of South Carolina, Pamela Evette, and Mayor of Newberry, Foster Senn. Our urban hike took us into the very heart of Newberry, passing Newberry College, established in 1856, past several ornate homes built 1880-1915, then right up to Main Street. We passed the old Coca-Cola bottling plant (turned indoor shooting range, turned law office), and City Hall.

The Newberry Passage is a 10-mile section of trail, with approximately 4 of those miles within city limits. Be warned that there is little shade, and most of the section is along busy roads. However, I found the 3-4 miles within city limits to be interesting, with the historic houses, an old cemetery, and of course the renovated Main Street with shops, cafes, bars and ice cream parlors.

Another Newberry treasure is a second passage of the Palmetto Trail, Lynch’s Woods. In direct contrast with the urban Newberry Passage, Lynch’s Woods is a relaxing 5-mile loop hike through a beautiful park full of old growth trees. Lynch’s Woods Park was created in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and today the 276-acre park features trails for mountain bikers, hikers, and equestrians.

Plenty to do with families!

We stopped in the Old Court House, completed in 1853, to get a map and a few brochures – the historic building now houses the chamber of commerce. There, they directed us to the Newberry Museum, housed in the 1911 Federal Building and United States Post Office. The museum offers permanent and rotating exhibitions about the history of the county as well as surrounding municipalities. For a calendar of exhibits, please visit their website.

The Newberry Museum

Only a few blocks from the museum is the Newberry Arts Center. Through the windows we could see children busy creating as part of the NAC Youth Summer Camp, and the Art Center store was full of hand-made pieces by local artisans. The Arts Center also sponsors Rec Mobile Friday Art in the Park, a free, traveling activity with a local artist occurring the 6 weeks of summer. Art programs are offered year-round; more information can be found on their website.

I was pleasantly surprised that Newberry has a Japanese Garden, tucked away and just waiting to be discovered. We were a little disappointed that the garden was closed, as it is currently undergoing construction, but the chamber of commerce assured me it should be open within a month. The Wells Japanese Garden is a Newberry landmark that was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980. For more on the garden, please visit the Newberry website.

Newberry Community Center

Newberry hosts many events through the year, including Oktoberfest on the first Saturday in October, a pumpkin painting party in late October, and Main Street Lights in late November; all in the charming setting of Memorial Park, opposite the Opera House. Originally the parking area for horses and carriages, on our recent visit it was transformed into an exuberant welcome to the SC7 expedition, tables set up in the shade of the enormous trees where we ate our fill of barbecue and ice cream while listening to a DJ play music. Just around the corner the Newberry Police Dept. had set up a bike rodeo, for young cyclists to test their knowledge of road signs and their skill at navigating an obstacle course. To top it off, the Opera House hosted the green carpet premier of the SC7 documentary “Higher Ground,” and we were able to see the ornate interior of the grand building. Yes, Newberry can also throw a party!

Shopping and restaurants

On our wanders through downtown we saw several intriguing antique stores, including one advertising “World Famous, as seen on American Pickers.” An antique bookstore, art galleries, clothing and jewelry stores round out the shopping experience – we could easily have spent a morning wandering the shops. Don’t forget the Art Center store when looking for that souvenir!

We had lunch and ice cream at family-friendly Laila’s Place, and cultural icon “Zesto’s” was on the Newberry Passage on the way into town. Several fine dining establishments catered to the Opera House crowd, and the Figaro Market was stocked full of local products and tantalizing eats.

Figaro Market

Lodging options include several of the big chains, although there are a few bed & breakfast type options in the vicinity.

Nearby attractions

Just to the south is the popular Peak to Prosperity Passage of the Palmetto Trail, great for biking and hiking, and known for the converted rail bridge that now allows pedestrians to traverse the Broad River.

Less than an hour away is Lake Murray, with all sorts of recreational opportunities. This time of year we go to see the purple martins on their way south; the thousands of birds all coming in to roost on Bomb Island at dusk is a sight to see! (For more on how to see the purple martins, please see my post The Purple Martins of Lake Murray)

 

That evening the lights were dimmed in the grand Opera House, and after Governor Henry McMaster gave a welcome speech, the lights were dimmed to the premier of “Higher Ground.” We sank into our plush, red velvet chairs, and took it all in: the historical, the hiking, the small-town, the culture…. Yes, indeed, Newberry is one of the best small towns in America! 

This post originally appeared on Kidding Around Greenville in conjunction with the South Carolina 7 Expedition as Historic Newberry, SC: “Most Charming Small Town.”

Blackstock Battlefield

One of the benefits of living in South Carolina is the chance to bring history to life by visiting the hundreds of historical sites across the state. We’ve visited Musgrove Mill State Historic Site many times, as it covers all the bases for my kids: Revolutionary War battlefield to explore, Tyger River trail to hike, and Horseshoe Falls to cool down in. But did you know Musgrove Mill manages a second battlefield? Located only 7 miles to the north, Blackstock Battlefield preserves the site of the Revolutionary War battle where infamous British Lt. Col. Tarleton was foiled in his attempt to defeat Patriot Brig. Gen. Sumter in 1780. We recently received a tour of Blackstock Battlefield during the South Carolina 7 Wonders Expedition, and wanted to share with you more on this little-known historic site just 40 minutes from Spartanburg!

Boys taking in the view over Blackstock Battlefield

Revolutionary War Action

Some months after the Battle at Kings Mountain, Sumter had gathered troops in preparation to attack the British post at Ninety Six. The British summoned Tarleton from his pursuit of the “Swamp Fox” Marion down near the coast to intercept Sumter, and the British Lt. Col. managed to secretly cross the Broad with his feared Dragoons before a defector informed Sumter he was being pursued. Sumter chose to make a stand at Blackstock’s Plantation on the Tyger river as Tarleton raced towards his position with his cavalry and mounted infantry.

When the British caught up with Sumter, they were at a disadvantage; they had gotten ahead of their infantry and artillery in hopes of catching Sumter unawares, and instead were themselves caught in the open under heavy fire from the high ground. After suffering heavy losses and regrouping, Tarleton retreated to join his infantry and artillery – but without half of his men, who had been lost in the battle. Sumter was badly wounded, and was evacuated overnight. Tarleton pursued the Patriots for two more days, and although he claimed a victory for dispersing Sumter’s militia, it was a costly defeat for the British in that they lost numerous officers, horses, and equipment. The Battle of Blackstock’s was a precursor to the action later at Cowpens.

Historical map of battlefield, courtesy of South Carolina State Parks

On Your Visit

Directions: From Exit 44 on I-26, go east on SC Hwy 49 about 5.5 miles to the Blackstock’s Historical Marker. Turn left onto Blackstock’s Road, then go about 1.2 miles and turn right onto Monument Road. Continue until the pavement ends, and park in the parking area before the gate.

For the best vantage point of the battlefield, continue up the gravel road to Monument Hill. Standing with your back to the monument, Blackstock’s Ford of the Tyger River is down the hill to the right. The open meadow was much larger when the Blackstock family lived there, and the British would have come charging up the hill to meet the forces lined up along the top. On the far end of the meadow was where the house and barn were located.  

Take a Hike

The parking area is also the trailhead for the Blackstock Battlefield Passage of the Palmetto Trail. This 1.6-mile loop descends to the Tyger River, and then follows the river for about ½ mile before climbing up to the battlefield. Skirting the edge of the open field, the trail re-enters the woods and returns to the parking area.

The SC Park Service asks that you remain on signed roads & trails while visiting the battlefield, going off trail can be hazardous, especially to children, as there are many deep holes from when the area was logged and the stumps were buried. On our visit we also saw fire ants, bees, and snakes. Highlights included seeing an eastern box turtle, taking in the view from Monument Hill, and experiencing another piece of the Revolutionary War puzzle that we have been piecing together during our southeastern travels.

Eastern box turtle

Things to do near Blackstock Battlefield

After hiking the Palmetto Trail Passage, my kiddos were more than happy to make the 15-minute drive to Horseshoe Falls, a small waterfall on a tributary of the Enoree River that is located in Musgrove Mill State Historic Site off Battlefield Trail. Just across the Enoree is the main portion of the State Park, including a Visitor Center and British Camp Trail. A little farther to the east is another State Historic Site, Rose Hill.

Just to the southeast is the Enoree Ranger District of Sumter National Forest. In addition to camping, cycling, OHV, fishing, horseback riding and hunting, the Enoree is home to the Enoree Passage of the Palmetto Trail, with 36 continuous miles of trail linking Newberry, Laurens, and Union counties.

If you are headed back north towards Spartanburg on your way home, you will pass near Glenn Springs, a small community with a lot of history, as well as by Croft State Park. 

Additional links:

• Sumter National Forest recreation opportunities: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/scnfs/recreation/hunting/recarea/?recid=47225&actid=54
• Blackstock Battlefield Passage of the Palmetto Trail: Blackstock Battlefield Passage – Palmetto Conservation Foundation
• Blackstock Battlefield - South Carolina | AllTrails

Blackstock Battlefield is open 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. daily. Please see Musgrove Mill State Historic Site website for more information. Admission to Musgrove Mill is $3 adults; $1.50 SC seniors; $1 children age 6-15; age 5 & younger free. 

This post originally appeared on Kidding Around Greenville in conjunction with the South Carolina 7 Expedition as Explore Revolutionary War History With a Hike Through Blackstock Battlefield in Enoree, SC.

Historic Glenn Springs

The country roads in the Upstate hold all sorts of secrets: old battlefields, Native American sites, drive-up movie theaters and quirky stores... Americana from a by-gone era, and modern-day wayside stops. On our recent hike with the South Carolina 7 Expedition we found ourselves in Glenn Springs, SC, an unincorporated community in Spartanburg County, and what we discovered there was a lot of history for such a little place!

Glenn Springs historic marker

The mineral springs

Not far from present-day Pauline, SC, there is a spring. The waters from this spring are said to have healing properties, and for over one hundred years were visited by people who came to enjoy their waters. According to the Glenn Springs Preservation Society, it was a Cherokee medicine man that discovered the mineral properties of the spring. Later, legend has it that soldiers returning from the Revolutionary War with various skin ailments came to the spring for its healing powers after finding that the minerals in the mud cleared up their health issues. Even George Washington was said to have stopped there to try the waters on a trip to neighboring Georgia. Recent water analysis shows calcium, sulphur and magnesium compounds, lending credence to the idea that the water had special properties.

Glenn Springs Mineral Water label photo, courtesy of Glenn Springs Preservation Society

In the late 18th century, the springs and the land around them were granted to a Henry Storey by the king, and then in 1825, John B. Glenn bought the land and opened an inn. The inn was so popular that ten years later a large hotel was built, one that quickly gained a reputation for elegance and comfort – and of course the water. A bottling facility was constructed, and at one point a railroad connected the inn to Roebuck, SC.

J W Bell owned Glen Springs from the 1930s until 1970. When the hotel burned down in the 1940s, it was never rebuilt, but the J W Bell Company in Spartanburg kept bottling the spring water in gallon glass bottles, 12,00-15,000 cases a year being shipped throughout the US and Europe until the Great Depression.

Glenn Springs Hotel photo, courtesy of Glenn Springs Preservation Society

Today

While you will not find a bottling plant or fancy hotel, the Glenn Springs Historic District and Williams Place are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. If your family is interested in visiting, here is what you need to know!

Your first stop should be the Old Stone Church (3700 Glenn Springs Road). Built in 1908, the property was built by the Glenn Springs Preservation Society in 2013, the old stone church is now an event and community center. The neighboring wooden building was originally the Cates Store, used as a Sunday school building until 1961. The wooden kiosk at the site has plenty of information on the area, as well as driving tour brochures that feature 23 historic structures, most on the National Register of Historic Places.

Kiosk at Old Stone Church

Take the driving tour

The brochure features a list of the Glenn Springs sights, including whether it is still standing, the address, and if it is on the National Register of Historic Places. The hotel was located near the Old Stone Church site, as is the spring – the entrance to the original springs and the bottling plant was off what is current-day Boys Home Road, across from the Episcopal Cemetery. Also on the tour is the Browning Home, which was haunted by resident ghost “Willie” who would knock over floor lamps and turn on radios until he was asked to leave in 1992. Nearby Camp Hill got its name after British Army Major Patrick Ferguson and his loyalist militia camped on the site in 1780, prior to their defeat by Patriots at the battle of Kings Mountain, and today features a Greek Revival style house built in the 1830s. The Storey Cabin, built by Henry Storey after he obtained the land grant from King George III in the 1750s, is located near a second spring (that feeds Storey Creek) and is still owned by the Storey family. The Old Jail House could hold two people, and was once a stage coach stop before being used for storage, and the Glenn Springs Post Office (and saddler’s shop) has been restored and moved to the very center of historic Glenn Springs.

Glenn Springs Historic Post Office

Go on a hike

The Post Office can be accessed from a parking lot at 3670 Glenn Springs Road. This is the parking area for the Glenn Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, which connects Croft State Park to Stagecoach Road. The Passage is unique in that it traverses mostly private property, in contrast to most of the Palmetto Trail which is located on state and federal public lands. From the parking area, follow the connector trail behind the kiosk for a third of a mile to reach the Palmetto Trail. From this point it is a little over 3 miles north to Croft Park, or 4 miles south to Stagecoach Road.

For more information on parking and the trail, please visit the Palmetto Trail Glenn Springs Passage page. We found the hike to be easy to moderate, though it did involve walking along roadsides for short distances, not ideal for children. Mountain bikes are allowed on most of the trail, and there is a bypass for the section that doesn’t. Highlights for us were the farm animals we saw (chickens, goats) on the farm next to the trail on the south end of the Passage, historic Glenn Springs, and Mineral & Storey Branch creeks.

Glenn Springs passage trailhead

Nearby things to do:

Glenn Springs provides a great stop during a day of exploration in Spartanburg County. Old Stone Church could be a great picnic spot, while the driving tour offers an opportunity to rest after a hike. A short drive away are several other attractions:

• Walnut Grove Plantation is just 15 minutes away in Roebuck. In addition to the home and outlying buildings, visitors can also view the property’s cemetery and walk a nature trail, or enjoy a picnic at the pavilion. Walnut Grove Plantation recounts how free and enslaved people settled the South Carolina Backcountry, fought for independence, and built a new nation. 
• Once an army training base, Croft State Park covers more than 7,000 acres of rolling, wooded terrain just a few miles from downtown Spartanburg. The Park offers over 20 miles of biking and hiking trails, a playground, picnicking and camping, as well as fishing and boating in one of two lakes.
• 20 minutes north of Glenn Springs is Glendale Shoals Preserve, featuring a 1928 pedestrian bridge, trails, mill ruins and gardens.

Goats as seen from the trail

This post was originally published on Kidding Around Greenville in conjunction with the South Carolina 7 Expedition as Hike and Explore Historic Glenn Springs, SC.

Bombs Away: the atomic bomb impact crater in Mars Bluff, SC

Fun (little known) fact: the US has dropped a nuclear bomb on the Carolinas.... twice.

About three hours east of Greenville lies the small town of Mars Bluff. Originally known as Marr's Bluff during the American Revolution, the name was shortened to Mars Bluff at some point before the Civil War, near the end of which the inland Confederate Mars Bluff Naval Yard was established.

I had never heard of the naval yard, but the town’s name is familiar; Mars Bluff has the distinction of having been inadvertently bombed with an atomic bomb by the United States Air Force. This might otherwise not have been on my radar, but my boys are budding US history buffs and so it was a given that we would eventually visit the site.

On a spring day in 1958, a B-47 Stratojet was en route to the U.K. to take part in “Operation Snow Flurry.” A fault light lit up, indicating the bomb’s harness locking pin had not engaged, and Captain Bruce Kulka went to investigate. As he reached around the bomb to pull himself up he accidentally hit the emergency release pin; the 8,500-lb. device hit the bomb bay doors, broke through them, and went screaming towards earth.

Aerial photo of the Gregg home after the bomb (Photo credit: Columbia Star)

Luckily for Walter Gregg and his family, the bomb wasn’t armed with its nuclear rod; its fission core was stored in a separate part of the plane. Unluckily for Walter Gregg, it was loaded with about 7,600 pounds of explosives; the resulting explosion destroyed his house, flattened his garden & surrounding forest, and created a mushroom cloud that could be seen for miles. By some miracle, not a single person was killed in the blast. The military reimbursed Gregg giving him a chance to start over, and the property was passed through the hands of several owners over the next fifty years. The hole was never filled in.

The original bomb crater was 30 feet deep and measured 75 feet across, although today not much remains to indicate that this was the site of a local footnote in Cold War history. A historical road marker on the north side of Interstate 76 marks the entrance to an overgrown road that leads to a hard-to-follow trail. Wind your way through a pine thicket past the foundation of the Gregg house, and you’ll come to what is now just a leafy depression in the woods, most easily recognized by the large plywood cutout of a bomb and kiosk with newspaper stories that were prepared for a 50th anniversary event. At one point the crater was used as a burn pit, giving the rainwater a murky appearance.

Crater Road

Because the property remains in private hands, visitors need the owner’s permission to visit the site. There is a second, much easier access point off Lucius Circle – also on private property. To round out the trip, make sure to stop by the Florence County Museum after stops at the crater and historical marker; it houses several fragments of the bomb. 

After the Mars Bluff incident all flights were required to ensure that bombs were locked down properly before takeoff. That still wasn’t enough to prevent a second Carolina event, as on January 23, 1961, a B-52 bomber broke up mid air, dropping two Mark 39 hydrogen bombs over Goldsboro, North Carolina. Information declassified in 2013 showed that one of the bombs came very close to detonating; it had its trigger mechanisms engage and its parachute open, two things that only happen when the bomb is intended to explode on target. Only one low-voltage trigger kept the bomb from detonating upon landing. In July 2012, the State of North Carolina erected a historical road marker in the town of Eureka, 3 miles north of the crash site, commemorating the crash under the title "Nuclear Mishap" – maybe a future destination for our crew?

"Commander Admits Crew Error Possible" and "It Was a Bad Day in Mars Bluff"

Your Guide to the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is really not one trail at all; it is a network of them, stitched together from the trail systems and roads that criss-cross the state. The nearly-continuous passageway stretches from Oconee State Park in the Upstate Foothills, to its low-country terminus at Awendaw and Buck Hall on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, it is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail. Today 350 of the proposed 500 miles of trail have been completed!

By offering 26 passages ranging from 1.3 to 47 miles, with easy, moderate, and strenuous levels of difficulty, the Palmetto Trail is accessible for day trips, weekend excursions, and longer treks. The entire Palmetto Trail is open to hiking and backpacking, but designated sections are available for biking, horseback riding and camping. Whether thru-hiking, or just out for a stroll, the trail explores the rich diversity and fascinating history, culture, and geography of the Palmetto State.

The goals of the Palmetto Trail (according to the Palmetto Trail Conservancy) are to:

• Showcase conservation and preservation from mountains to sea
• Provide free public access to active, healthy outdoor recreation
• Foster tourism, business, and economic development 

THE PASSAGES (from NW to SE)

Stumphouse Passage: 1.5 mile hiking trail and 9.34 mile mountain bike park

The Stumphouse Mountain Passage is the newest addition to the Palmetto Trail. It begins in Sumter National Forest at the Stumphouse Tunnel Park in Oconee County’s Walhalla. Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel is an incomplete railroad tunnel for the Blue Ridge Railroad of South Carolina, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. The park is also home to Issaqueena Falls.

Ross Mountain: 5.0 miles

The newest passage to be completed along the Palmetto Trail, this passage connects the Stumphouse Passage to Oconee State Park.

Oconee Passage: 3.2 miles

This Passage begins in Oconee State Park and ends at Oconee Station State Historical Site, a backcountry military garrison and trading post from the 1790s. Make sure to visit Station Cove Falls on the way! Intersections with the Foothills Trail and Tamassee Knob Trail allow easy access to Hidden Falls and Tamassee Knob in Oconee State Park.

A ¼ mile spur trail from the Oconee Passage leads to Station Cove Falls

Eastatoe Passage: 4.6 miles

Starting in Keowee Toxaway State Park on Natural Bridge Trail, this Passage travels along Eastatoe Creek upstream from Lake Keowee and climbs through mountain forest in the acclaimed Jocassee Gorges with its abundance of flowers, birds and wildlife. Two new bridges including the Zeke wilderness trail bridge were recently opened to the public and are destinations in themselves!

Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage (Jocassee Gorges): 12.3 miles

This section of the Palmetto Trail offers a view of the remote and rugged Jocassee Gorges area, with it abundance of wildflowers and wildlife, mountaintop vistas, and waterfalls. The Passage starts in Table Rock State Park, which boasts stunning trails such as the Pinnacle Mountain, Carrick Creek and Table Rock Trails. The Foothills Trail can also be accessed from the Park.

Roundtop Mountain: 5.9 miles

Connecting the Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage to the Foothills Trail and Sassafras Mountain, this section creates opportunities for circular hikes in the Jocassee Gorges wilderness in Pickens County. 

Middle Saluda Passage: 10.9 miles

With its waterfalls and challenging elevation, this passage connects about 14 miles of existing trails in the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area of Jones Gap and Caesars Head State Parks. Highlights include Hospital Rock, Rainbow Falls, and 420-foot Raven Cliff Falls. Camp in Jones Gap State Park, or continue beyond Hospital Rock to Falls Creek Falls for an added 2½ miles. (For more on Jones Gap Falls: click here)'

Rainbow Falls, as seen from spur trail

Saluda Mountains Passage: 9.1 miles

The Saluda Mountains Passage runs along the ridge dividing the Carolinas, with the Poinsett Watershed to the south. The 19,000-acre watershed is a pristine wilderness area providing habitat for multiple rare plants and animals, including the threatened Peregrine falcon.

Poinsett Reservoir Passage: 6.6 miles

Poinsett Reservoir Passage travels the mountain ridges along the northern boundary of Poinsett Watershed. This pristine watershed of 19,000 acres contains the headwaters feeding Poinsett Reservoir of the Greenville Water System.

Blue Wall Passage: 14 miles

The Blue Wall Passage is home to a wide array of wildlife, stunning scenery including a 30-foot cascading waterfall, and 100+ species of birds. The eastern trailhead is located in the Foothills Equestrian Nature Center (FENCE), and country roads and sidewalks wind through Landrum and around lovely Lake Lanier before entering the Blue Wall Preserve and climbing the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment to Vaughns Gap.

View of Hogback Mountain from Blue Wall Passage

Peach Country Passage: 14.1 miles

The numerous peach orchards of the region are spectacular when blooming, which is why cycling the Peach Country Passage along the back roads from Inman to Landrum brings such joy in the spring. The passage traverses mostly lightly traveled gravel roads, except for a quarter mile on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC Hwy 11) near Campobello.

USC Upstate Passage: 1.3 miles

This short passage begins on the campus of the University of South Carolina Upstate campus in Spartanburg, SC, and descends through the woods to Lawson’s Fork Creek.

Hub City Connector: 12 miles

The Connector includes sections of greenways, bicycle lanes, and safe, signed sidewalks through the city of Spartanburg, traveling along the Mary Black Foundation Rail Trail and through Liberty Garden, and connecting the School for the Deaf and Blind, with downtown, Converse College, Wofford College, Spartanburg Regional Heart Center, Spartanburg Medical Center, and USC Upstate. Trail spurs include Chinquapin Greenway, a 1.6-mile trail spur located at the city’s northern gateway.

Croft Passage: 12.6 miles

In the 1700s, the area that today is part of Croft State Park was a hotbed of mills, trading, and political activity centered around the shoals. There was a Revolutionary militia victory at the First Battle of Cedar Springs in 1780, and during World War II it served as an Army training center.

Glenn Springs Passage: 7 miles

Rolling farmlands, mature forests, and the historic town of Glenn Springs highlight the Glenn Springs Passage. In the 19^th century, Glenn Springs was known for the health benefits of its mineral waters. Now listed in the National Register, the historic district includes 20 historic buildings from about 1840 to 1940 and the site of a popular resort hotel.

Blackstock Battlefield Passage: 4 miles

Enjoy four miles of nature trails, camping, and mountain biking along the Tyger River at the site where Revolutionary War patriots defeated the British; on November 20, 1780, patriot militia fighting under Gen. Thomas Sumter prevailed over British regulars under Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton. Two months later Tarleton lost the Battle of Cowpens and fled north with his remaining troops.

Life on the Enoree

Enoree Passage: 36 miles

Hike or bike the 36 miles of trail through Sumter National Forest linking Newberry, Laurens and Union counties. The trail meanders through the diverse habitats located in the Enoree Ranger District and River corridor, while Macedonia, Sedalia, and John’s Creek lakes provide plenty of opportunities to fish on the way to the northern trailhead at Sedalia Campground.

Lynch’s Woods Passage: 4.9 miles

This Park is a well-kept secret just outside of Newberry. Created by the 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps, the park protects 276 acres of woodlands full of old-growth hardwoods and the rambling Rock Branch Creek and tributaries, and allows hiking, cycling and horseback riding. 

Newberry Passage: 11 miles

The Newberry Passage is one of three urban passages on the trail, taking you through the heart of Historic Downtown Newberry and showcasing a number of historical and cultural points of interest.

Peak to Prosperity Passage: 10.8 miles

The highlight of this section of trail is the impressive 1,100-foot-long Broad River trestle. From there the former railway follows Crims Creek west through the Dutch Fork area to Pomaria and Interstate 26. Read more about this Passage here.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the Broad River between Peak and Prosperity

Capital City Passage: 10.2 miles

The first urban passage on the Palmetto Trail features South Carolina’s largest city and seat of state government. The passage follows city sidewalks through Columbia’s neighborhoods, past city parks and schools, along the historic Horseshoe at the University of South Carolina, and across the steps of the State Capitol. The passage links Fort Jackson Passage to Riverfront Park and the Broad River.

Fort Jackson Passage: 16.2 miles

Fort Jackson Passage takes you through the heart and into the woods of this military facility located just east of Columbia, SC. Fort Jackson was established in 1917 in preparation for WWI, named in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson. At 52,000 acres, it’s the Army’s largest basic training center.

Wateree Passage: 11.4 miles

One of the most diverse sections of the Palmetto, this portion of the trail crosses swamps and hills on its way from Poinsett State Park then through the SCE&G property to Hwy 601. Passing through a section of Manchester State Forest traveling along the remnants of the old SC Railroad through Sumter Junction, it crosses over the Wateree River and Molly’s Bluff - elevation 260 feet – with excellent views across Wateree swamp.

High Hills of Santee Passage: 9.4 miles

Named for the high, sandy ridges that are part of the Sandhills geographical region, these rolling hills are the remains of an ancient ocean shoreline found in the Carolinas and Georgia. Over time, the beach sand and shells transformed into coquina, which can be seen today throughout the park. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps used the native stone to build many structures in the park. Birdwatching includes the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker.

Lake Marion Passage: 33.6 miles

This passage skirts along the north side of Lake Marion between Santee and Mill Creek County Park. A short side trip down Fort Watson Road leads to the site of ancient Santee Indian burial mounds (3,500 years old); the site is now part of Santee National Wildlife Refuge.

Santee Passage: 12.7 miles

This passage utilizes the dirt roads and rural highways of Orangeburg County, traveling through farmlands to the town of Santee.

Eutaw Springs Passage: 21.3 miles

From the site of the Revolutionary War Battle of Eutaw Springs to downtown Eutawville, with a 5-mile spur trail that connects to Santee-Cooper Wildlife Management Refuge and Lake Marion.

Lake Moultrie Passage: 26.9 miles

Hugging the eastern and northern shores of 60,000-acre Lake Moultrie, the views make this a popular passage for mountain bikers. Following levees and service roads, the trail crosses the Santee Canal and traverses the swamps around Bulltown Bay.

Swamp Fox Passage: 47.2 miles

This passage named for Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion is the Palmetto Trail’s longest. From the swamps of Francis Marion National Forest, to long-leaf pine forests that are home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, from the grassy savannas near Dog Swamp and Turkey Creek, to Wadboo Swamp; three trailheads provide users with plenty of options! Just make sure to bring plenty of water, as there is only one water source on the Swamp Fox Passage at the Ranger Station off Steed Creek Road.

Awendaw Passage: 7.1 miles

The coastal terminus of the mountains-to-sea Palmetto Trail, the Trail’s namesake trees greet users at the Buck Hall Recreation Area trailhead. Starting at the Intracoastal Waterway, the Trail meanders westward through maritime forest and offers sweeping vistas of Lowcountry salt marsh along Awendaw Creek. At Walnut Grove, look for a scenic overlook and boardwalk. A canoe launch for Awendaw Creek is located at the end of Rosa Green Road.

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One way to see the trail is during the Annual Palmetto Trail Challenge. Each year, Palmetto Conservation Foundation hosts The Palmetto Challenge to inspire teams of two, three, or four to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 9 and April 26; more information can be found here.

If you want to see the state - really get out there and experience what South Carolina has to offer - the Palmetto Trail is the way to go! As Palmetto Conservation puts it: “Backcountry. Rails-to-Trail. Greenways. City sidewalks. Urban bikeways. Steps of the State Capitol. Bridle. (The trail) connects state and county parks, national forests, nature preserves, wildlife management areas, Revolutionary War battlefields, Native American paths, urban to rural, swamps to mountains, maritime to sandhills to piedmont, and much more…"

Well, what are you waiting for? You've got 350 miles to go!!!

From Peak to Prosperity on the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail and will measure 500 miles when finished, stretching from Walhalla in the Blue Ridge Mountains to Awendaw on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, 350 miles of trail have been completed so far, eleven of which make up the Peak to Prosperity Passage.

Using the railbanking process, Palmetto Conservation purchased an 11 mile, 200” wide right-of-way from Norfolk Southern Railroad. The first 6.5 miles of the passage were opened to the public in 2009 after two volunteers, Charles Weber and Furman Miller, cleared and decked eight trestles. The trail has a total of 20 trestles, mostly crossing back and forth over Crims Creek, which parallels the trail to flow into the Broad just south of the Parr Reservoir.

Alston Trailhead

The east end of the passage is in Alston. Fairfield County donated the funds to develop the small trailhead park that includes the parking area, as well as a canoe launch and picnic tables right on the Broad River. A popular fishing spot, we saw the US Fish & Wildlife Service releasing fingerlings into the river on our recent visit.

From Alston, the trail crosses the Broad River on a former trestle, thanks to SC Parks, Recreation & Tourism who funded the conversion. The 1,100-foot-long bridge is a wonderful vantage point for glimpsing bald eagles, and turtles can usually be spotted sunning on the banks below. The trestle is also a popular location for photography and birdwatching. This first ½ mile section of trail is an official Kids in Parks TrackTrail (opened in June, 2020), you can find the brochures here.

Once across the bridge, the trail enters Newberry County and skirts Peak, SC. Established in the early 1850s to house workers building the Greenville and Columbia Railroad, it was named for railroad superintendent, H.T. Peak. The town incorporated in 1880, witnessed Federal troops destroying the tracks in 1865, and survived multiple fires, the most recent in 1978.

An access trail into Peak

The area between the Saluda River and the Broad River that the trail traverses west of Peak is known as the Dutch Fork, named for the Pennsylvania Dutch that settled the area between 1730 and 1766 when the SC government offered incentives for foreign Protestants to settle the backcountry.

Make sure to climb the stairs down to Crims Creek at Nathan's Trestle (#6). The rock structure that can be seen there is the original trestle buttress built in 1848 as part of the Greenville to Columbia Railroad. The trestle was burned in 1865 by the Union cavalry while withdrawing from the Confederate forces of Palmer's brigade, who were advancing from Newberry. 

Nathans Trestle 

At milepost 6.5 the trail passes by Pomaria. Originally named Countsville, there was a post office as early as 1823. In 1840 it was renamed Pomaria for William Summer’s nearby Pomaria Nursery; the root of the town’s name – pomology – is the study of fruit cultivation, which was a specialty of Summer. The Columbia and Newberry Railroad line came through in 1851, and the town was incorporated in 1903.

After crossing under Interstate 26, the trail soon arrives at Kibler Bridge Trailhead, the current western-most parking area for the passage (the trail continues another 1.25 miles west to just north of Eptings Pond). I recommend leaving a car at the Alston trailhead and then driving to Kibler Bridge if you plan on hiking/biking the trail one way; when traveling the trail east, you are descending around 225 feet in elevation to the Broad River over the 10 miles, and the Broad River Bridge makes a great finale to the adventure.

Turn-off for parking area on Kibler Bridge Road

Additional amenities include a campground between trestles 11 and 12 (at around mile marker 5.25), water and supplies at the Pomaria trailhead, and parking areas in Pomaria, Hope Station and Kibler’s Bridge. There are stairs at several of the trestles that lead down to picnic areas, and educational signage detailing the history and nature of the area along the way.

You can find the Palmetto Trail Peak to Prosperity Passage page here. 

Download the map here. 

The rail trail features a dozen small, round signs with QR codes you can scan into your phone or tablet to learn about the history, culture and natural resources of the area. Read more here. 

Finally, Tom at Random Connections has a great write-up here.