A rainy day on the Gulf Shore at St. Andrews State Park

The Florida State Parks system is pretty incredible… 175 parks, trails and historic sites are scattered around the state, providing public access to some of the most beautiful beaches, scenic natural areas, and historic landmarks in the Southeast. The next stop on our Florida panhandle exploration was St. Andrews State Park, part of the barrier island chain that protects Panama City.

The park was originally opened in 1951 with 302 acres along the Gulf Shore. Now more than 1,200 acres, the area has a long history of human presence, from the Native Americans who collected shellfish from the surrounding waters, to the WWII military reservation. We awoke to a steady drizzle, but decided to head to St. Andrews regardless in hopes the rain would taper off and allow us the opportunity to explore.

As often is our habit, we started off in the Visitor Center. Because of the weather we had it pretty much to ourselves, and after watching a movie and admiring the dozens of species of shells found in the park, a ranger introduced us to the resident corn snake.

Our original plan was to take the ferry out to Shell Island, originally Lands End Peninsula but separated when Gulf-Bay Pass was dredged in the 1930s. Shell Island is reputed to be a stretch of beach as peaceful and unspoiled as can be found in Florida, with a plethora of shells to be found and seabird & sea turtle nests in the dunes. However it was not meant to be; the ferry wasn’t running due to the weather, and we wouldn’t be able to stick around for another day in hopes of a sunnier day.

peek-a-boo!

Our perseverance was rewarded though, as the near-empty park was our playground for the morning. We donned our raincoats and headed to Gator Lake trail for a short hike, and had barely left the car when we saw our first alligator. For the less adventurous, a pier provides a safe vantage point over the lake, while those looking to stretch their legs will find scenic lakeside views on a short loop trail. Heron Pond Trail is the second option, located near the ferry boat pier. It traverses a flatwood pine forest, leading past the replica turpentine still; the Cracker Turpentine Still was donated in 1963 by the Lewis Family and relocated from Bristol. Both Gator Lake and Heron Pond trails provide visitors with multiple wildlife viewing opportunities, from the resident alligators to a variety of waterfowl & wading birds. Opposite the parking area for the Gator Lake trail (which is home to a great blue heron rookery) is Buttonbush Marsh, which can be easily accessed by an overlook on the north portion of the loop road, and here you’ll see dozens of species of birds feeding and nesting.

After a snack we headed out to the beach, the rain slowly clearing as we crossed over the boardwalk out to the grey waters of the Gulf. At the very tip of the peninsula is the Gun Mount Pavilion, home to one of the original gun mounts that overlooked the pass back in the 1940s. A jetty protects a beach area facing Shell Island, while a long stretch of white sands connect to the Gulf Fishing Pier. We walked, searched for shells, marveled at the beauty of the dunes rising over the beach and tried to stay warm in the Gulf winds.

The recreational options seem endless: hiking, biking, boating, swimming, camping, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling and surfing… Despite (or maybe in spite?) of the rain we had gotten a taste of St. Andrews State Park and the white sand beaches of the Gulf barrier islands, and luckily there would be more opportunities to enjoy the waters in the days to come…

Echoes of the song festival / Dziesmu svētku atskaņas / Part 1

Our four days in Baltimore passed in a blur of concerts, what felt like several years of Latvian culture boiled down into 100 hours of events. With three young children along (and an abundance of family and friends we wanted to catch up with), we knew we would not be able to do everything – but that didn’t stop us from trying!

Our largest obstacle to fitting everything in was arrival time, as we were set to arrive in Baltimore on Friday night. This meant we wouldn’t be able to attend the opening ceremony (svētku atklāšana), about which my friend Daina had this to say; “While the official opening event (atklāšana) has traditionally been less than exciting, this festival's opening featured enough interesting people (Latvia's Minister of Culture! Latvia's Ambassador to the US!) who kept their remarks brief, as well as high quality musical performances that indicated the great concerts we were to experience during the festival. The East Coast Combined Choir's performance of Ēriks Ešenvalds' stirring Dvēseles dziesma was particularly beautiful.” After the opening ceremony the Song Festival continued in earnest with various acts taking the Printful Stage, as well as with the Sacred Music Concert (garīgās mūzikas koncerts). The one event that I regret missing most was the dance party that evening with Iļģi; luckily we were to have more opportunities to hear them play, but more on that in a bit…

Saturday we took a quick look at the svētku market before heading out into the heat of the day to see the Peabody Library and Bromo Seltzer Tower, missing the Jaundeju skate (new choreography contest) at the Lyric Opera House. Here’s a view from backstage with members of the dance group Sienāzītis, the children’s group that traveled all the way from Longford, Ireland to the festival...

We used a moment of quiet in the early afternoon to check in at the mobile passport station, and then while dad set out to take care of a few obligations, the boys and I headed to the Sheraton for the theater production Emīls un Berlīnes zēni. Based on the children’s novel Emil and the Detectives by German writer Erich Kästner, the production was an adaptation performed by the San Francisco Theater Workshop. Director and producer Māra Lewis brought a cast of 18 to Baltimore, and the family-friendly show was a hit with parents and children alike; the kids had all gathered at the foot of the stage within the first 10 minutes and were kept enthralled for the duration, while the parents enjoyed the positive values put forth such as honesty, hard work and teamwork. My three boys give 6 thumbs up to the show. Parole – Emīls!

The next morning we headed downstairs to the Fells Point room for bērnu nodarbības (children’s activities). Overflowing with energy, the kids made puzuri out of straws, decorated mittens with Latvian designs, played with helium balloons, and in general, caused a ruckus until mom declared it to be pool time. Only complaint? Who puts 50 children in a room together with their parents with no coffee…

While dad took two of the kids to the pool (another enclosed space with 50 kids and no coffee), the third joined my sister and me on a tour of the art and the fashion & folk costume exhibits. The latter showcased contemporary fashion alongside traditional dress, and featured a number of current designers with their take on folk patterns & symbols.

The art exhibit brought together an eclectic collection of work, all by Latvian-American artists and relating to the theme “On the Road to Latvia’s Centennial.” After browsing the pieces, more than one of which was the work of a familiar name, we took in the view of the harborfront, Latvian flag fluttering in the steady breeze coming off the Patapsco.

The folk dancing show (tautas deju lieluzvedums), one of the primary events of the weekend, took place Sunday afternoon at the Royal Farms Arena. 778 folk dancers came together to reflect the changing face of Latvian folk dance, the selected dances highlighting the evolution of patterns, movements and music over the last 100 years. The dancers came from all over the world: 32 dance troops from the US, Canada, Latvia and Ireland, and the 26-dance program was strewn with crowd favorites ranging from Vidzemes polka to Gailis un vista.

From there, a portion of the attendees headed to Christ Lutheran church for the SŌLA concert. Daina writes “Attending the Sōla concert was a true musical treat. The program had been well chosen – the first half contained works by Latvian composers, and the second part presented Latvian folk songs in choral arrangements. The beautiful setting of Christ Lutheran Church with its excellent acoustics only added to our enjoyment of this outstanding choir’s concert.”

Meanwhile we were trying to get the boys fed because that evening we were lucky to have vecpaps Jānis around to watch the kiddos while we relaxed aboard the Spirit of Baltimore. Setting sail from the Inner Harbor, we watched the sunset over the city while enjoying hors d’oeuvres, and soon were slipping past a dark Fort McHenry. The lively accompaniment of Iļģi filled the boat and floated out over the water as we navigated all the way out of the Inner Harbor to the Francis Scott Key Bridge. The conversation and laughter of long-time friends reunited echoed from the shore, if only for one magical evening on the Chesapeake.

To be continued…..

Toronto Island Park

When I think of being a tourist in Toronto, I think CN Tower, Ripley’s Aquarium Canada, ROM, High Park and the waterfront, a combination of historic, iconic, family-adventure and the outdoors. What this list is missing might be the best option to get in a little of everything Toronto-ish in just one day… a visit to Toronto Island Park.

This island retreat in the middle of the city is accessible by a short ferry ride from the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal in downtown Toronto, within walking distance from the popular Harbourfront area. Ferry prices are reasonable: adults $7.50, students/seniors (ages 15-19 and over 65 with proof of age) $5.00, children ages 2 to 14 $3.65 and infants under 2 free (prices in Canadian dollars as of May 2016 and include return trip, for vehicle pricing and monthly pass info see ferry website). On your way out to the island grab a spot at the railing looking back at the city – the view of the Toronto skyline is unbeatable, except maybe from a plane…

There are actually three separate ferries, one heading to Ward’s Island on the east end, one to Hanlan’s Point on the west end, and the third to Centre Island. Home to Far Enough Farm and Centreville Amusement Park, the 30 rides and bevy of animals could keep you busy all day. Keep in mind there’s still the entire main island to explore, starting with its four beaches: Ward’s Island Beach (west end), Centre Island Beach, Gibraltar Point Beach and Hanlan’s Point Clothing Optional Beach (east end). We chose Manitou, even though with three kids under six clothing optional activities are rather commonplace.

We crossed the bridge from Center Island and strolled past a fountain and through large, formal gardens to reach the water. The pier at Manitou Beach is adjacent to the island bar, bicycle rental and changing room facilities, and Centre Island Beach is right there. All the beaches have lifeguards on site, but pay attention to the flags; it might be a red-flag day due to water quality. Don’t let this keep you dry though, head to the nearby splash pad and playground if the sun and surf isn’t your thing!

out on the pier

My favorite part of the whole Toronto Island Park experience was Franklin Children’s Garden. This interactive garden is inspired by the Franklin the Turtle book series, and there was so much to explore that we ended up spending over an hour there. We climbed the Snail Trail, played in the Hide and Seek Garden, watched bees at the Pollination Station and helped water the Little Sprouts Garden.

The William Meany Maze is not far from the gardens and proved to be a challenge the boys couldn’t resist. 1,200 black cedar trees create a hedge maze to truly get lost in…

A little further west from the garden is the Gibraltar Point Lighthouse, the 200 year-old (reportedly haunted) historical beacon that is the oldest stone building in Toronto and Canada’s oldest standing lighthouse. Past that is Hanlan’s Beach, beyond which is Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, which you might have flown into if you’ve ever flown Porter to Toronto – a good spot to watch planes with the kids. Meanwhile, on the east end of the island are the car-free communities of Ward’s and Algonquin Islands with their distinctive architecture and beautiful summer gardens (approximately 750 people live in the 262 homes year round). There is a guided tram tour that will visit all these historical sites, or you can rent a boat or paddleboard and explore via water. And if swimming, cycling and boating don’t use up all your energy, there’s even an 18-hole disc golf course, volleyball courts and tennis courts. Once you get hungry there are food & beverage vendors located through the park, or you can find one of the 40 picnic sites dotting the island if you’ve brought your own food. Finally, you’ll find several other park and private vendors and activities throughout the park, ranging from the Toronto Island Challenge Course to the Pirate Life Children’s Theatre, which urges visitors to join the crew & search for treasure!

I’m not sure when we’ll next return to Toronto, but I hope that on our next trip Toronto Island Park is included. I would love to explore in autumn when the monarch butterflies are migrating through, to see the sand dunes in the spring, or to take the boys fishing; northern pike, panfish and largemouth bass populate the weedy shallows of the lagoons. It would be fun to take either the Ward’s Island or Hanlan’s Point ferry across and then work our way across the entire park, we would just have to tear ourselves away from the beaches and gardens! The park is truly an island escape, and although you might be reluctant to leave, just make sure of one thing – that you don’t miss the last ferry back to the city and that scenic view of the downtown skyline!

Mammoth Cave - Turnhole Bend and the Green River Ferry

To wrap up National Park Week we return to Mammoth Cave National Park to explore two more above-ground areas that visitors often don’t get to experience on their trip to the Park (famous for its enormous cave system). Although we did take the Discovery Tour to get a taste of the underground, the big surprise on our visit was the adventure waiting for us on the 80 –mile trail system; from spring wildflowers on the Cedar Sink Trail to the massive bluffs on the GreenRiver, there were beautiful views and interesting geographical oddities around every bend.

After our morning wildflower hike we ate a picnic lunch and then headed a very short distance to 0.5 mile Turnhole Bend Nature Trail (not to be confused with the 1.8 mile Turnhole Bend Trail north of the Green River). This short loop brings hikers to an overlook of the bend the Green River makes on its 27 mile journey through the Park. At the base of the bluff is Turnhole Spring, and along the trail are several sinkholes.

a large sinkhole

Turnhole Bend Spring is the 3^rd largest spring in Kentucky, originating from a large area of sinkholes south of the Park. After the water drains underground, it flows through cave passages, briefly surfaces at the Cedar Sink, and then continues its underground journey until converging with the Green River.

The area gets its name from the 19^th century riverboats that would enter the spring to reverse their course up the river – a “turn hole.” Upstream from the bend in the river is the Green River Ferry crossing, one of two ferry crossings within the Park and one of only a few operating rural ferries in the US.

Before the establishment of the National Park, 8 private river boat ferries provided a way to cross the river. Among them was the Mammoth Cave ferry (near the Historic Entrance to the cave), the Turnhole Ferry (at the very south end of the bend) and Houchins Ferry, which still operates today (note: the Houchin ferry is temporarily out of service, for up-to-date info call the Ferry Hotline at (270) 758-2166).

The Green River Ferry operates year-round with the exception of Christmas Day (December 25), 6:00am-9:55pm.  Your vehicle must not exceed 8 tons and can be no longer than 16 feet. During our short visit the ferry made close to ten visits across the river, ferrying one, sometimes two cars at a time. The Green River Ferry Rd. is the only vehicular access to the Maple Springs Group Campground and the majority of the north end of the park without having to drive all the way around the boundaries of the park.

The parking lot at the ferry crossing is also the trailhead for the Echo River Spring Trail. The one-mile hike circles around Echo River, splits off into the Whites Cave Trail and Mammoth Dome Sink Trail, and ends at the Green River Bluffs Trail above the mouth of the River Styx. We found an amazing sycamore on the bank of Echo River, the trunk entirely hollow all the way to the river below as well as up to where the main trunk had snapped off some years previous – yet it was still alive, clinging to the banks as it had been doing for a hundred years.

Our trip to Mammoth Cave ended sooner than I would have liked. We still had a stop or two before returning to Greenville, but we were leaving the wilderness behind as we headed south to Knoxville. It had been an amazing few days – above and below ground – and I can easily imagine our travels will bring us back to this area someday. As a finale to National Park Week I invite you to visit the More Than Just Parks website, where you will find amazing time-lapse videos of some of the most remarkable National Parks in the US, including Joshua Tree, Great Smoky Mountains, and the most recent, Zion. Watch, dream, and plan…

Patriots Point - a naval history adventure

On our most recent visit to Charleston we spent some time in Mt. Pleasant, the suburb that bore the brunt of the massive rain and flooding event just one week later, closing many of the highways leading in and out of Charleston. Although we saw a drizzle while on the Mt. Pleasant pier under the Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, it luckily held off on our visit to Patriots Point, home to the Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum.

One of South Carolina’s largest tourist attractions with more than 270,000 visitors per year, Patriots Point is located at the mouth of the Cooper River on the Charleston Harbor. Established in 1975, the 350-acre complex includes not only the National Historic Landmark ships, a Cold War Memorial, a Vietnam Support Base Camp, and the headquarters to the Congressional Medal of Honor Society, but also leases property to a golf course, a hotel and a collegiate athletic complex. With 29 aircraft on display from conflicts ranging from WWII to present-day operations, Patriots Point advertises as being the only aircraft carrier museum in the US to have all of the top ten most significant aircraft types in U.S. carrier aviation history.

For the price of parking and admission you are allowed access to the Aircraft Carrier USS Yorktown, the Destroyer USS Laffey, Submarine USS Clagamore and the Vietnam Experience. Once you’ve paid and entered this area, my suggestion would be to start with the Yorktown; the National Historic Landmark ship is also home to the Medal of Honor Museum, the Apollo 8 Mission Exhibit and dozens of historic aircraft.

Nicknamed “the Fighting Lady,” the Yorktown is the 10^th aircraft carrier to serve in the US Navy. Named for the Yorktown CV-5 lost in the Battle of Midway in 1942, the ship played a significant role in the Pacific offensive and received the Presidential Unit Citation. During WWII the Yorktown carried 90 planes, but later was modified with an angled flight deck for jets, and finally converted to an antisubmarine carrier which is how it served in the Vietnam War.

An information desk is located at the main entrance staffed with personnel available to help answer any questions, but the booklet you will have received has 5 self-guided walking tours to make the most of your time on the ship. We started with Tour 3, as it includes the flight deck and bridge, the two areas of most interest to the boys. Following the guide we wound our way through operations and control rooms before emerging onto the flight deck, where various aircraft were situated with a grandiose view of Charleston and the Harbor.

Climbing the Bridge we toured a few cabins, the pilot house and radar rooms before descending back into the bowels of the ship. We chose to continue with Tour 1: Living and Working, but elected to take a few shortcuts as Lauris and Mikus weren’t as interested in all the displays. We skipped the rest of the tours, which take visitors to the engine/fire room, to the WWII Carrier rooms and to the wardroom and brig.

Having returned to the hangar deck we took a closer look at the exhibits there, including the Medal of Honor Museum and the Apollo 8 Mission model capsule. In 1968 the Apollo 8 was the first capsule to orbit the moon, and Yorktown recovered it upon its return to Earth.

We disembarked and headed along the pier to the USS Laffey. Named for the Civil War Medal of Honor recipient Seaman Bartlett Laffey, the Destroyer was targeted off Okinawa by a massive air strike. Five kamikazes and three bombs struck the ship killing 32 and wounding 71, but the crew kept the boat afloat and once decommissioned, the Laffey arrived at Patriots Point in 1981.

Furthest along the pier adjacent to the Resort and Marina is the submarine USS Clagamore. The 322-ft sub was commissioned only a few weeks before the end of WWII and spent thirty years in service before being replaced by a nuclear submarine. The only ship of its type to survive as a museum ship, the descent into the ship is tight and slightly claustrophobic so the boys sat this one out while I had a quick look.

Having returned to mainland the next exhibit is the Vietnam Experience. Exhibits and artifacts are accompanied by the sights and sounds of the Vietnam War, and although educational and interesting, it was overwhelming to the children.

Once you’ve exited through the ship store you could cross over to the Cold War Submarine Memorial which is located across from the Patriots Point’s main entrance, examine the various cannons and the view of Yorktown or, for an additional fee, take a 5-20 minute aerial tour of Charleston and Patriots Point via helicopter.

Patriots Point is also a departure location for one of the Fort Sumter ferries, and just minutes from the Mount Pleasant Memorial Waterfront Park and the Ravenel Bridge. While the museum does have a few food options, we elected to head to Mount Pleasant to eat, although you can just as quickly make it to downtown Charleston. And finally, while the ticket price can be steep for a large family (adults $20, seniors $17 and children 6 to 11 $12 plus $5 parking), this weekend is “Pay What You Can Weekend” at Patriots Point; visitors are asked to name their own admission price January 9-10, to help celebrate their 40^th anniversary. If this weekend isn't the optimal time to visit keep your eye out for groupon deals - the current one is a 2 for the price of 1.

The Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum is open daily from 9:00am to 6:30pm, and active military in uniform and children under six are free. See website for details on educational programs, event rentals and camping programs as well as all the details on the ships, aircraft and exhibits on site. This fact sheet was a handy reference during our visit, and the map/tour guide that comes with admission was essential in prioritizing and planning our visit.

Your guide to visiting Sapelo Island

Before you go

Make reservations to visit, as visitors to the island must be a part of an organized tour or guests of residents on the island. See “how to get there”

Read God, Dr. Buzzard, and the Bolito Man by Cornelia Walker Bailey. This beautiful cultural memoir will help you better understand the history of the island and its inhabitants.

Visit the Sapelo Island Estuarine Research Reserve Visitor Center at the mainland ferry dock in Meridian. In addition to providing valuable information about the coastal ecosystem, the area’s history and marine life, this will also be the best place to find answers to questions about tours and lodging.

**Public use is limited to the south half of the island unless accompanied by an authorized guide or a special DNR permit.

Source: National Estuarine Research Reserve Sapelo Island brochure

How to get there

The island is only accessible by boat or airplane (the small air strip is managed by the State of Georgia). The Sapelo Island ferry makes three round trips a day except on Sundays and holidays; for a complete schedule, click here. Reservations required, and they will be made by the tour organizer or your host.

Lodging

Several privately managed properties are available for rental in the Hog Hammock community through sites such as vrbo.com, Sapelo Island Birdhouses or Geechee tours. Arrange transportation from ferry landing at time of booking.

The Reynolds Mansion has 13 rooms available for group bookings of 16-29 adults with a two-night minimum. Meals and transportation from the ferry landing included, visit the DNR website for availability and reservations.

Groups of 15-25 people may camp near the beach in Sapelo’s Cabretta Island campground. A comfort station is available, and transportation from the ferry landing is provided.

What to do/see

-Hit the beach. There are two beaches accessible by car or bicycle, Nanny Goat Beach (south end) and Cabretta Island (north), although in actuality the entire east coast is sandy beach. As this article is published the bridge leading to Nanny Goat is out and therefore it is a longer walk from the parking area, but there is also a short walk to reach Cabretta Island beach. Facilities at Nanny Goat include covered pavilions, restrooms and outdoor showers.

-Check out the almost 200 year old lighthouse and take in the view from the top.

-Stop by the Hog Hammock store at the east end of the East-West autobahn. You might get lucky and meet Mrs. Bailey, the author of “God, Dr. Buzzard, and the Bolito Man.” If you took the south end tour your tour guide may have been Ms. Yvonne Grovner; her sweetgrass baskets and cookbook are also for sale here.

-Explore the Reynolds Mansion and grounds

-Search for alligators! You’re almost sure to spot one in the big pond across from the dorms near the Reynolds Mansion, but according to our tour guide a 10-footer prefers the tennis court to sun itself.

-Take a guided tour of the south half of the island featuring the Reynolds Mansion, the Sapelo Island lighthouse, Hog Hammock and Long Tabby. Reservations required, for more information contact the Visitor Center or Geechee Tours. (This is a great way to visit the island without staying overnight, but also a great way to explore the area if you are staying at one of the Hog Hammock rentals.)

-Watch the sun set at Long Tabby. Site of the 1809 old tabby sugar mill (of which the ruins are still visible), this is also where the island’s post office is located, and the view over the marsh is perfect for watching a colorful Sapelo Island sunset.

-Behavior Cemetery. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this 1805 cemetery is behind locked gates but worth the stop to see one of the most important African-American landmarks in Georgia.

-Take a guided tour of the north end of the island. Your host or the Visitor Center should be able to arrange a DNR certified tour guide to take you on the back roads of the island. Sites to see include the Shell Ring dating back to 2170 BC, Chocolate Plantation and the tabby ruins from 1819, and Raccoon Bluff: the First African Baptist Church built in 1900 and a view of Blackbeard Island.

-Birdwatch. From the osprey hunting the marshes near the lighthouse to the bald eagles that nest on the island, there are dozens of species that can be found. In addition to the shorebirds, marsh birds and birds of prey, we saw waterfowl and songbirds.

-Charter a boat for a fishing or sightseeing trip or to search for pirate treasure on neighboring Blackbeard Island with a private tour through Sapelo Sights.

-Rent a bicycle or kayak and see the island from a different perspective.

-Sample Lula’s cooking. Serving up authentic Geechee fare, Lula often cooks for the groups renting the Reynolds mansion. Check with your host, it may be possible to join in!

-Stop in The Trough, Sapelo’s only bar located in Hog Hammock, for a drink and a snack.

-Visit the Hog Hammock community center or library to learn more about the Geechee and Hog Hammock. A non-profit organization, Sapelo Island Cultural and Revitalization Society (SICARS) whose mission is to preserve and revitalize Hog Hammock, has created a community land trust and is considering development of a cultural village to attract tourists and acquaint visitors with Gullah/Geechee history, lore and crafts.

-Take a moonlit stroll on the beach. We had a full moon to guide us, but our host said on a clear night the stars are unparalleled.

-Enjoy every minute on this historic island that remains a pristine jewel of the Atlantic coast.

For more on Sapelo Island:

An Introduction, Nanny Goat Beach and the Hog Hammock community
The Sapelo Island lighthouse
A short history of the island
Tour the Reynolds Mansion