Your Guide to the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is really not one trail at all; it is a network of them, stitched together from the trail systems and roads that criss-cross the state. The nearly-continuous passageway stretches from Oconee State Park in the Upstate Foothills, to its low-country terminus at Awendaw and Buck Hall on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, it is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail. Today 350 of the proposed 500 miles of trail have been completed!

By offering 26 passages ranging from 1.3 to 47 miles, with easy, moderate, and strenuous levels of difficulty, the Palmetto Trail is accessible for day trips, weekend excursions, and longer treks. The entire Palmetto Trail is open to hiking and backpacking, but designated sections are available for biking, horseback riding and camping. Whether thru-hiking, or just out for a stroll, the trail explores the rich diversity and fascinating history, culture, and geography of the Palmetto State.

The goals of the Palmetto Trail (according to the Palmetto Trail Conservancy) are to:

• Showcase conservation and preservation from mountains to sea
• Provide free public access to active, healthy outdoor recreation
• Foster tourism, business, and economic development 

THE PASSAGES (from NW to SE)

Stumphouse Passage: 1.5 mile hiking trail and 9.34 mile mountain bike park

The Stumphouse Mountain Passage is the newest addition to the Palmetto Trail. It begins in Sumter National Forest at the Stumphouse Tunnel Park in Oconee County’s Walhalla. Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel is an incomplete railroad tunnel for the Blue Ridge Railroad of South Carolina, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. The park is also home to Issaqueena Falls.

Ross Mountain: 5.0 miles

The newest passage to be completed along the Palmetto Trail, this passage connects the Stumphouse Passage to Oconee State Park.

Oconee Passage: 3.2 miles

This Passage begins in Oconee State Park and ends at Oconee Station State Historical Site, a backcountry military garrison and trading post from the 1790s. Make sure to visit Station Cove Falls on the way! Intersections with the Foothills Trail and Tamassee Knob Trail allow easy access to Hidden Falls and Tamassee Knob in Oconee State Park.

A ¼ mile spur trail from the Oconee Passage leads to Station Cove Falls

Eastatoe Passage: 4.6 miles

Starting in Keowee Toxaway State Park on Natural Bridge Trail, this Passage travels along Eastatoe Creek upstream from Lake Keowee and climbs through mountain forest in the acclaimed Jocassee Gorges with its abundance of flowers, birds and wildlife. Two new bridges including the Zeke wilderness trail bridge were recently opened to the public and are destinations in themselves!

Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage (Jocassee Gorges): 12.3 miles

This section of the Palmetto Trail offers a view of the remote and rugged Jocassee Gorges area, with it abundance of wildflowers and wildlife, mountaintop vistas, and waterfalls. The Passage starts in Table Rock State Park, which boasts stunning trails such as the Pinnacle Mountain, Carrick Creek and Table Rock Trails. The Foothills Trail can also be accessed from the Park.

Roundtop Mountain: 5.9 miles

Connecting the Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage to the Foothills Trail and Sassafras Mountain, this section creates opportunities for circular hikes in the Jocassee Gorges wilderness in Pickens County. 

Middle Saluda Passage: 10.9 miles

With its waterfalls and challenging elevation, this passage connects about 14 miles of existing trails in the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area of Jones Gap and Caesars Head State Parks. Highlights include Hospital Rock, Rainbow Falls, and 420-foot Raven Cliff Falls. Camp in Jones Gap State Park, or continue beyond Hospital Rock to Falls Creek Falls for an added 2½ miles. (For more on Jones Gap Falls: click here)'

Rainbow Falls, as seen from spur trail

Saluda Mountains Passage: 9.1 miles

The Saluda Mountains Passage runs along the ridge dividing the Carolinas, with the Poinsett Watershed to the south. The 19,000-acre watershed is a pristine wilderness area providing habitat for multiple rare plants and animals, including the threatened Peregrine falcon.

Poinsett Reservoir Passage: 6.6 miles

Poinsett Reservoir Passage travels the mountain ridges along the northern boundary of Poinsett Watershed. This pristine watershed of 19,000 acres contains the headwaters feeding Poinsett Reservoir of the Greenville Water System.

Blue Wall Passage: 14 miles

The Blue Wall Passage is home to a wide array of wildlife, stunning scenery including a 30-foot cascading waterfall, and 100+ species of birds. The eastern trailhead is located in the Foothills Equestrian Nature Center (FENCE), and country roads and sidewalks wind through Landrum and around lovely Lake Lanier before entering the Blue Wall Preserve and climbing the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment to Vaughns Gap.

View of Hogback Mountain from Blue Wall Passage

Peach Country Passage: 14.1 miles

The numerous peach orchards of the region are spectacular when blooming, which is why cycling the Peach Country Passage along the back roads from Inman to Landrum brings such joy in the spring. The passage traverses mostly lightly traveled gravel roads, except for a quarter mile on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC Hwy 11) near Campobello.

USC Upstate Passage: 1.3 miles

This short passage begins on the campus of the University of South Carolina Upstate campus in Spartanburg, SC, and descends through the woods to Lawson’s Fork Creek.

Hub City Connector: 12 miles

The Connector includes sections of greenways, bicycle lanes, and safe, signed sidewalks through the city of Spartanburg, traveling along the Mary Black Foundation Rail Trail and through Liberty Garden, and connecting the School for the Deaf and Blind, with downtown, Converse College, Wofford College, Spartanburg Regional Heart Center, Spartanburg Medical Center, and USC Upstate. Trail spurs include Chinquapin Greenway, a 1.6-mile trail spur located at the city’s northern gateway.

Croft Passage: 12.6 miles

In the 1700s, the area that today is part of Croft State Park was a hotbed of mills, trading, and political activity centered around the shoals. There was a Revolutionary militia victory at the First Battle of Cedar Springs in 1780, and during World War II it served as an Army training center.

Glenn Springs Passage: 7 miles

Rolling farmlands, mature forests, and the historic town of Glenn Springs highlight the Glenn Springs Passage. In the 19^th century, Glenn Springs was known for the health benefits of its mineral waters. Now listed in the National Register, the historic district includes 20 historic buildings from about 1840 to 1940 and the site of a popular resort hotel.

Blackstock Battlefield Passage: 4 miles

Enjoy four miles of nature trails, camping, and mountain biking along the Tyger River at the site where Revolutionary War patriots defeated the British; on November 20, 1780, patriot militia fighting under Gen. Thomas Sumter prevailed over British regulars under Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton. Two months later Tarleton lost the Battle of Cowpens and fled north with his remaining troops.

Life on the Enoree

Enoree Passage: 36 miles

Hike or bike the 36 miles of trail through Sumter National Forest linking Newberry, Laurens and Union counties. The trail meanders through the diverse habitats located in the Enoree Ranger District and River corridor, while Macedonia, Sedalia, and John’s Creek lakes provide plenty of opportunities to fish on the way to the northern trailhead at Sedalia Campground.

Lynch’s Woods Passage: 4.9 miles

This Park is a well-kept secret just outside of Newberry. Created by the 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps, the park protects 276 acres of woodlands full of old-growth hardwoods and the rambling Rock Branch Creek and tributaries, and allows hiking, cycling and horseback riding. 

Newberry Passage: 11 miles

The Newberry Passage is one of three urban passages on the trail, taking you through the heart of Historic Downtown Newberry and showcasing a number of historical and cultural points of interest.

Peak to Prosperity Passage: 10.8 miles

The highlight of this section of trail is the impressive 1,100-foot-long Broad River trestle. From there the former railway follows Crims Creek west through the Dutch Fork area to Pomaria and Interstate 26. Read more about this Passage here.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the Broad River between Peak and Prosperity

Capital City Passage: 10.2 miles

The first urban passage on the Palmetto Trail features South Carolina’s largest city and seat of state government. The passage follows city sidewalks through Columbia’s neighborhoods, past city parks and schools, along the historic Horseshoe at the University of South Carolina, and across the steps of the State Capitol. The passage links Fort Jackson Passage to Riverfront Park and the Broad River.

Fort Jackson Passage: 16.2 miles

Fort Jackson Passage takes you through the heart and into the woods of this military facility located just east of Columbia, SC. Fort Jackson was established in 1917 in preparation for WWI, named in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson. At 52,000 acres, it’s the Army’s largest basic training center.

Wateree Passage: 11.4 miles

One of the most diverse sections of the Palmetto, this portion of the trail crosses swamps and hills on its way from Poinsett State Park then through the SCE&G property to Hwy 601. Passing through a section of Manchester State Forest traveling along the remnants of the old SC Railroad through Sumter Junction, it crosses over the Wateree River and Molly’s Bluff - elevation 260 feet – with excellent views across Wateree swamp.

High Hills of Santee Passage: 9.4 miles

Named for the high, sandy ridges that are part of the Sandhills geographical region, these rolling hills are the remains of an ancient ocean shoreline found in the Carolinas and Georgia. Over time, the beach sand and shells transformed into coquina, which can be seen today throughout the park. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps used the native stone to build many structures in the park. Birdwatching includes the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker.

Lake Marion Passage: 33.6 miles

This passage skirts along the north side of Lake Marion between Santee and Mill Creek County Park. A short side trip down Fort Watson Road leads to the site of ancient Santee Indian burial mounds (3,500 years old); the site is now part of Santee National Wildlife Refuge.

Santee Passage: 12.7 miles

This passage utilizes the dirt roads and rural highways of Orangeburg County, traveling through farmlands to the town of Santee.

Eutaw Springs Passage: 21.3 miles

From the site of the Revolutionary War Battle of Eutaw Springs to downtown Eutawville, with a 5-mile spur trail that connects to Santee-Cooper Wildlife Management Refuge and Lake Marion.

Lake Moultrie Passage: 26.9 miles

Hugging the eastern and northern shores of 60,000-acre Lake Moultrie, the views make this a popular passage for mountain bikers. Following levees and service roads, the trail crosses the Santee Canal and traverses the swamps around Bulltown Bay.

Swamp Fox Passage: 47.2 miles

This passage named for Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion is the Palmetto Trail’s longest. From the swamps of Francis Marion National Forest, to long-leaf pine forests that are home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, from the grassy savannas near Dog Swamp and Turkey Creek, to Wadboo Swamp; three trailheads provide users with plenty of options! Just make sure to bring plenty of water, as there is only one water source on the Swamp Fox Passage at the Ranger Station off Steed Creek Road.

Awendaw Passage: 7.1 miles

The coastal terminus of the mountains-to-sea Palmetto Trail, the Trail’s namesake trees greet users at the Buck Hall Recreation Area trailhead. Starting at the Intracoastal Waterway, the Trail meanders westward through maritime forest and offers sweeping vistas of Lowcountry salt marsh along Awendaw Creek. At Walnut Grove, look for a scenic overlook and boardwalk. A canoe launch for Awendaw Creek is located at the end of Rosa Green Road.

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One way to see the trail is during the Annual Palmetto Trail Challenge. Each year, Palmetto Conservation Foundation hosts The Palmetto Challenge to inspire teams of two, three, or four to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 9 and April 26; more information can be found here.

If you want to see the state - really get out there and experience what South Carolina has to offer - the Palmetto Trail is the way to go! As Palmetto Conservation puts it: “Backcountry. Rails-to-Trail. Greenways. City sidewalks. Urban bikeways. Steps of the State Capitol. Bridle. (The trail) connects state and county parks, national forests, nature preserves, wildlife management areas, Revolutionary War battlefields, Native American paths, urban to rural, swamps to mountains, maritime to sandhills to piedmont, and much more…"

Well, what are you waiting for? You've got 350 miles to go!!!

Chihuly Nights at Biltmore

If you haven’t yet been to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville to see the Chihuly exhibit, you have until the first week in October to see this captivating art installation, the first art exhibition in Biltmore’s historic gardens, and the first garden exhibition of Chihuly’s works in North Carolina.

Solo d'Oro (2017)

Electric Yellow and Deep Coral Tower (2017)

Artist Dale Chihuly is an American glass sculptor, famous for his environmental artwork. We have our very own Chihuly piece right here in Falls Park – Rose Crystal Tower – although it is constructed of Polyvitro instead of glass (see my post Chihuly Comes to Greenville).

Pergola Garden Fiori (2018)

Red Reeds (2017)

  

We opted for Chihuly Nights tickets, as they include an evening visit to Biltmore as well as daytime admission the day of your evening visit or the following day to the Gardens, Conservatory, Antler Hill Village & Winery, the shops and the restaurant. The only difference between a day and night ticket really seems to be your entry time into the Biltmore House; an evening tour is self-guided and restricted to the First Floor.

Paintbrush Tower (2014)

Cattails and Copper Birch Reeds (2015) outside the Conservatory

You will want to tour the house, as Laguna Torcello II is located in the Winter Garden. It is the only piece located inside the Biltmore House; Sky Blue and Cobalt Fiori is located just outside the main entrance.

Laguna Torcello II (2018)

Sky Blue and Cobalt Fiori (2017)

Portions of the exhibit can be found along the Pergola, in the Shrub Garden, in the Walled Garden and Italian Garden, and in the Conservatory. The centerpiece, Sole d’Oro, is located on the Esplanade, and two more pieces can be found in Antler Hill Village: Alabaster and Amber Spire Towers & Turquoise and Erbium Fiori.

Sole d'Oro (2017)

The orchids in the Conservator almost showed up the Chihuly chandeliers...

Burnished Amber, Citron, and Teal Chandeliers (2017) - one of two in the Conservatory

  

Our visit was made even more interesting by a summer thunderstorm. Not only did we have the gardens to ourselves, the colors seemed more lush and vibrant. In addition there were some fantastic skies serving as a backdrop to the Châteauesque residence.

We saw the storm coming a long way off

Float Boat (2017) and the Italian Garden

  

If Sole d’Oro is the centerpiece, the sculptures in the Italian Garden are a crescendo – the five works are floating in the ponds, water lilies and koi living among them.

Niijima Floats (2018) and the resident carp among the clouds

Fiori Boat (2017), Neodymium Reeds with Fiori Verdi (2014) in background

It was here that I definitely noticed the Italian influence on Chihuly's work. One of the pieces is titled Palazzo Ducale Tower, and it is the oldest in the exhibition. The initial phase of Chandelier exploration culminated in his Chihuly over Venice project, and the ceilings that could not support chandeliers challenged the artist to create towers. I wrote about Venice, Palazzo Ducale and the Murano glassblowing legacy in my post Venice and Lido, Italy.

Palazzo Ducale Tower (1996) in he Italian Garden is the oldest piece in the exhibition

A visit to Biltmore in the coming months offers the Chihuly experience alongside the landscape architecture of Frederick Law Olmstead; it is no wonder that it has taken nearly two years of preparation to host this exhibit, and it truly is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that is worth the trip.

Red Reeds (2017)

Sole d'Oro (2017) as seen from the Statue of Diana

Rīga with Kids!

Congratulations! You’ve booked your trip to Latvia this summer, scored the hard-to-get tickets to the historic LV100 Dziesmu un Deju Svētki, and survived the 10 hour flight with your kiddos (extra points for each connection!). Now what? Some days are filled with concerts, cultural events and other LV100 opportunities, however you know that the children will need some downtime – a little time to explore and be kids. After being asked a couple of times for favorite spots to go as a family, I’ve put together a list of things to do with children in and around Rīga.

Parks

The easiest way to squeeze in some time outdoors is at one of the nearby parks. Vērmanes dārzs is one of our favorites as it is centrally located, has a playground with plenty of shaded benches around, and offers trampolines/bounce houses/kids car rides (for a small fee). Buy some ice cream or freshly spun cotton candy and explore the gardens, or time your visit to coincide with one of the many festivals and tirdziņi that take place there every summer such as the Dziesmu svētku gadatirgus (July 1-8) or Rīgas svētki 2018 (August 17-19). Catch a concert on one of the stages and relax before heading further to Vecrīga.

Fellow blogger Brigita suggests the Centra sporta kvartāls park on Krišjāņa Barona iela for Rīga-themed and sports-based fun. You can read her post here – Rīga With Kids Tip.

The song festival wall in Viesturdārzs

Kronvalda parks takes you along the canal and past some cool statues and historical sites. If you’re in town for the song festival, you’ll want to visit the oldest park in Rīga, Viesturdārzs; also known as the song festival park, it has a reflecting pool with fountains and portrait wall dedicated to Dziesmu svētki. And adjacent to Brīvības piemineklis is Bastejkalns park, with memorials to those who died in 1991, the foundations of an old castle, a mini bridge with love locks, and scenic views of the canal. 

Activities

See Rīga from above! A neat way to get the lay of the land during the first days of your stay is by visiting one of the many places that offers a scenic view of the city. Svētā Petera baznīca provides one of our favorite views, although if you would like to enjoy the scenery while enjoying a drink in a retro bar, try Skyline Bar. The Radio tower is also an option, although a bit harder to get to from downtown Rīga.

The view from St. Peter's Church

Take a wooden boat tour of the Rīga canal! Combined with a short stretch of the Daugava River, the canal makes a big loop around Vecrīga - allowing for the distinctive opportunity to sightsee a city by boat.

Those who prefer to travel by land will want to walk the streets of Vecrīga. There is no better way to explore the cobblestoned streets and hidden courtyards of the old city than by foot! Sit down at an outdoor alus dārzs for ķiploku grauzdiņi for the kids, cross through the historic city gates, shop for everything from amber jewelry to folk music to children's literature, spot the cats adorning the infamous Kaķu nams, and admire the elegant beauty of the many churches while soaking in the history of the city that was born in 1201!

Spotted one of the cats!

Head to one of the many markets! Centrāltirgus is the biggest, and you can spend hours wandering through the giant zeppelin hangars. Buy some berries picked that morning while shopping for dinner, or just pick up a couple of souvenirs and ogle/smell the fish stalls.

Don't forget to eat! The LIDO chain is popular with many children and parents, simply because it lets them see the food they are ordering - which can be a relief for parents of fussy eaters or just those unfamiliar with Latvian cuisine. The LIDO Recreation Centre offers not just a meal, but a dining experience complete with live music and family recreation.

Educational opportunities

You’ll want to visit the magnificent National Library while you’re in Rīga, Gaismas pils. Older children might enjoy going on the free tour, while younger kids will love to spend some time in the children’s library. Make sure to take them to see the dainu skapis on the 5th floor that once stored the folk song collection of Krišjānis Barons.

Exploring the Art Nouveu District on a self-guided tour or with an official tour service might be a good choice for a group of varied ages. The younger children can have fun spotting all the animals & mythical creatures contained within the building facades, while older kids and adults can delve into the distinctive architectural unlike any in the world. 

Laima Chocolate Museum is a must for the chocolate lover.

The Rīga Zoo is just a tram ride away. It’s located adjacent to Mežaparks where you’ll find all sorts of other family-friendly activities such as a paintball center and a mini golf course.

Botāniskā dārzā

The Botanical Gardens of the University of Latvia can be a little harder to reach if you’re utilizing public transportation, but are worth the effort. Boasting an arboretum, palm house and butterfly house, the 40-acre gardens also have a rabbit enclosure that will delight smaller children. 

For a deeper look into the painful history of the Baltics, older children would benefit from a visit to the Okupācijas muzējs. Note, this museum is more appropriate for young adults than young children, and delves into very serious subject matter. However for those of us who grew up outside of Latvia, it offers insight into the tragic years that shaped our tēvuzeme. 

There are dozens of museums in Rīga, it’s just a matter of finding one to suit your interests. See if this post by Family With Kids helps: Things to Do and See with Kids in Riga, a Family Vacation in Latvia

  

LV100/Dziesmusvētki

In addition to all the ticketed events there will be many free, open to the public concerts and other events taking place across the city. One of our favorites is the Dziesmu svētku gājiens, where every song and dance festival participant parades down Brīvības ielas on the final day of the festival. 

Check out the Live Rīga website for events taking place across the city in honor of LV100 and the song festival.

Day Trips

Cross Lielupe to reach Jūrmala, 20 miles of beach on the Baltic Sea. Each municipality has its own distinct vibe, so with a little research you’ll quickly find the area that best suits your needs. Or, if you don’t want to go all the way to Jūrmala, stop at Līvu akvaparks for waterpark fun.

If you’re looking to head to the beach but want something a little quieter than Jūrmala, try heading east, to Saulkrasti. Need a little extra convincing? Take a look at these photos...

Ķemeru nacionālais parks is the closest National Park to the capital, and has miles of trails and boarwalks that explore the unique ecosystems within.

The bogs of Ķemeri National Park

And about an hour east of Rīga (by car) you’ll find Sigulda (and neighboring Krimulda), with Gūtmaņala and the ancient castle of Turaida, all popular tourist destinations.

I hope you enjoy your time in Rīga, and urge you to make the absolute most of your time there! Dziesmu svētki in Latvia are a unique chance to see the country all dressed up for the festivities, and to sample the many cultural, natural, historical and culinary experiences it has to offer. I would love to hear what your favorite places were to visit as a family, and please let me know what I’ve missed. Safe travels!!!

Gaismas Pils - the National Library of Latvia

In memory of Latvian-American architect Gunārs Birkerts (January 17, 1925 - August 15, 2017), please join me for a virtual tour of the “Castle of Light”!

Gunārs Birkerts (also known as Gunnar Birkerts) is known for designs such as the Corning Museum of Glass and the Corning Fire Station (Corning, NY), Marquette Plaza (Minneapolis, MN), the Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art (Kansas City, MO) and the U.S. Embassy in Caracas, Venezuela. Visitors to the Latvian Center Gaŗezers will have visited Brīvdabas baznīca, Kronvalda zāle and Klētnieki (or ZKs), all of which are his work. However, the architect might be best known for his recent design for the National Library of Latvia in Rīga, Gaismas Pils. (A more complete tally of his designs can be found here.)

For insight into the inspiration behind the project and its creation, Birkerts wrote this article, The Idea of the Project. The architectural form references and draws inspiration from Latvian folklore; the legend tells of a Castle of Light that sank into an ancient lake and would only arise from the depths when Latvians were once again masters of their own land.

While those members with library cards can freely access floors 1-8, a tour can be arranged for visitors that wish to get a behind-the-scenes look all the way up to the pinnacle. These one-hour excursions can be arranged by e-mailing ekskursijas@lnb.lv; for more information visit the LNB website. Our knowledgeable guide met us on the ground floor to give an overview of the history of the building and the scope of the library’s collection; there are 4.5 million items including 2 million books in 62 languages contained in Gaismas pils.

The first floor features various exhibits that reflect on the history of the library and literature in Latvia, including the temporary exhibit by artist Rita Grendze, Simts raksti tiem, kas meklē gaismu. The site-specific installation reflects the cultural heritage that the artist experienced growing up in the US through 50 two-sided pieces; 100 Latvian books were used, one book from each year of the Latvian state's existence. While this exhibit recently closed, the permanent exhibit “Castle of Light and Glass Mountain – The Story of the National Library of Latvia Project” and up to 5 other exhibits are open to the public on a daily basis.

The first floor also includes the Imanta Ziedoņa zāle, a theater hall with 462 purple chairs made in Rīga chair factory. The light-colored wood (Latvian birch and Canadian maple) that features so prominently in this space as well as throughout the library was carefully selected by Birkerts, and mostly was grown in Latvia for the project.

Note that the design of the ground floor resembles Latvian linen textiles

While there are actually 13 floors to the library, the next floor has been termed a mezzanine to avoid an unlucky number. The M level encompasses the Reference and Information Centre, the Baltic Research Centre for East Asian Studies Library Reading Room and an atrium. Playing on one wall is a video of the 2014 transfer of books from the old National Library to their new home – via a chain of 14,000 volunteers forming a human chain. 

For more on this event please see my post Rīga: European Capital of Culture 2014 

The bookcase that houses the 2,000 volumes that traveled hand-to-hand to the library have been placed in a specially designed bookcase that rises up 5 stories in the center of the library. Every Latvian is invited to donate a book to this bookcase (one that has special meaning to the donor), and it is the architect’s hope that the shelves will one day be filled with tens of thousands of books that are really a tautas grāmatu plaukts – a bookcase of the people. Utilizing mirrors for visual effects, the shelves appear never-ending when viewed from certain angles for yet another layer of multi-faceted symbolism.

We continued to floor “2” and the Humanities & Social Sciences and the Economy and Rights Reading Rooms. This floor is also home to one of 10 1^st edition facsimiles of the Album Terra Mariana 1186–1888 which tells us about the spread of Christianity in Latvia and Estonia, the lands once known as Livonia (Terra Mariana or Land of Mary was the official name for Medieval Livonia). The original album was printed in 1888 in Rīga and presented to Pope Leo XIII; this copy is preserved in the Vatican Apostolic Library. The 70 parchment pages contain a wealth of information about Livonian castles, castle ruins, churches, the coats of arms used by ancient families, seals, historical persons, and impressions of ancient silver and gold coins of the time.

From Vecrīga, Gaismas pils appears a glittering patchwork of glass and metal. However, the library was designed not only to create an unforgettable profile to join the city’s skyline, but also with the visitor to the library in mind. The public spaces all face the river Daugava, offering spectacular views of Vecrīga, Daugava and its various bridges from the collections and reading rooms throughout the library; the scenic vistas visible from the third floor Technology & Science and the Periodicals Reading Rooms are no different.

The 4^th floor is devoted to the arts, the Art Reading Room, Music Reading Room, Audiovisual Reading Room and Sound Recording Studio all located around the atrium. The 5^th floor focuses more on the cultural, with Archives of Latvian Folklore and the Lettonica and Baltic Reading Room complimenting several exhibition halls. The “Cimelia” hall currently contains the “Times Reflected in Ancient Manuscripts Exhibit” that enables visitors to view the most unique examples of the manuscript collection of the National Library of Latvia. The highlight of this floor is the 130 year-old dainu skapis (cabinet of folksongs), where Krišjānis Barons (the "father of the dainas") stored the tautas dziesmas he collected as part of his systematization of the texts of the Latvian folk songs. In 2001 Dainu skapis was recognized as a cultural heritage item with its addition to the UNESCO "Memory of the World" register. 

We continued on, passing the 6^th floor which contains the Maps and Small Prints Reading Rooms. Our favorite collection within the library is housed on floor 7 – the Children’s Literature Center. With comfortable seating areas we could have spent hours browsing the extensive selection, and the librarians were invaluable in providing information on the newest Latvian literature for kids of all ages. We found the 24-book bērnu žūrija selection especially interesting; the reading program, which is now entering its 6^th year, includes books read and rated by children. In 2016, there were already 20,000 readers from 712 Latvian libraries and schools, as well as 54 weekend schools in 22 countries – including the Krišjāņa Barona Latvian School of Chicago.

The 8^th floor is home to the Library and Information Science Reading Room, as well as Competence Development Center classrooms. Technical operations are housed on the 9^th and 10^th floors, so our next stop was the 11^th floor; together with the 12^th floor it forms the spire of Gaismas pils, the glass crow’s nest that offers breathtaking views from above. The space serves not only as an observation deck but also an event space (complete with piano) and exhibit; it is here at the very top that various drafts and notes that Gunārs Birkerts made while working on the library project are displayed.

A visit to the National Library should be finalized with a stop at the restaurant “Klīversala.” The cafeteria-style dining room dishes up a wide array of food that is reasonably priced and fills those growling stomachs, while the dining environs mimic the light-colored wood/glass/metal interior from the rest of the library.

The webpage of the National Library of Latvia can be found here, with a 360° digital tour offered here. Follow LNB on facebook, twitter and Instagram!