Your Guide to the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is really not one trail at all; it is a network of them, stitched together from the trail systems and roads that criss-cross the state. The nearly-continuous passageway stretches from Oconee State Park in the Upstate Foothills, to its low-country terminus at Awendaw and Buck Hall on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, it is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail. Today 350 of the proposed 500 miles of trail have been completed!

By offering 26 passages ranging from 1.3 to 47 miles, with easy, moderate, and strenuous levels of difficulty, the Palmetto Trail is accessible for day trips, weekend excursions, and longer treks. The entire Palmetto Trail is open to hiking and backpacking, but designated sections are available for biking, horseback riding and camping. Whether thru-hiking, or just out for a stroll, the trail explores the rich diversity and fascinating history, culture, and geography of the Palmetto State.

The goals of the Palmetto Trail (according to the Palmetto Trail Conservancy) are to:

• Showcase conservation and preservation from mountains to sea
• Provide free public access to active, healthy outdoor recreation
• Foster tourism, business, and economic development 

THE PASSAGES (from NW to SE)

Stumphouse Passage: 1.5 mile hiking trail and 9.34 mile mountain bike park

The Stumphouse Mountain Passage is the newest addition to the Palmetto Trail. It begins in Sumter National Forest at the Stumphouse Tunnel Park in Oconee County’s Walhalla. Stumphouse Mountain Tunnel is an incomplete railroad tunnel for the Blue Ridge Railroad of South Carolina, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1971. The park is also home to Issaqueena Falls.

Ross Mountain: 5.0 miles

The newest passage to be completed along the Palmetto Trail, this passage connects the Stumphouse Passage to Oconee State Park.

Oconee Passage: 3.2 miles

This Passage begins in Oconee State Park and ends at Oconee Station State Historical Site, a backcountry military garrison and trading post from the 1790s. Make sure to visit Station Cove Falls on the way! Intersections with the Foothills Trail and Tamassee Knob Trail allow easy access to Hidden Falls and Tamassee Knob in Oconee State Park.

A ¼ mile spur trail from the Oconee Passage leads to Station Cove Falls

Eastatoe Passage: 4.6 miles

Starting in Keowee Toxaway State Park on Natural Bridge Trail, this Passage travels along Eastatoe Creek upstream from Lake Keowee and climbs through mountain forest in the acclaimed Jocassee Gorges with its abundance of flowers, birds and wildlife. Two new bridges including the Zeke wilderness trail bridge were recently opened to the public and are destinations in themselves!

Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage (Jocassee Gorges): 12.3 miles

This section of the Palmetto Trail offers a view of the remote and rugged Jocassee Gorges area, with it abundance of wildflowers and wildlife, mountaintop vistas, and waterfalls. The Passage starts in Table Rock State Park, which boasts stunning trails such as the Pinnacle Mountain, Carrick Creek and Table Rock Trails. The Foothills Trail can also be accessed from the Park.

Roundtop Mountain: 5.9 miles

Connecting the Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage to the Foothills Trail and Sassafras Mountain, this section creates opportunities for circular hikes in the Jocassee Gorges wilderness in Pickens County. 

Middle Saluda Passage: 10.9 miles

With its waterfalls and challenging elevation, this passage connects about 14 miles of existing trails in the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area of Jones Gap and Caesars Head State Parks. Highlights include Hospital Rock, Rainbow Falls, and 420-foot Raven Cliff Falls. Camp in Jones Gap State Park, or continue beyond Hospital Rock to Falls Creek Falls for an added 2½ miles. (For more on Jones Gap Falls: click here)'

Rainbow Falls, as seen from spur trail

Saluda Mountains Passage: 9.1 miles

The Saluda Mountains Passage runs along the ridge dividing the Carolinas, with the Poinsett Watershed to the south. The 19,000-acre watershed is a pristine wilderness area providing habitat for multiple rare plants and animals, including the threatened Peregrine falcon.

Poinsett Reservoir Passage: 6.6 miles

Poinsett Reservoir Passage travels the mountain ridges along the northern boundary of Poinsett Watershed. This pristine watershed of 19,000 acres contains the headwaters feeding Poinsett Reservoir of the Greenville Water System.

Blue Wall Passage: 14 miles

The Blue Wall Passage is home to a wide array of wildlife, stunning scenery including a 30-foot cascading waterfall, and 100+ species of birds. The eastern trailhead is located in the Foothills Equestrian Nature Center (FENCE), and country roads and sidewalks wind through Landrum and around lovely Lake Lanier before entering the Blue Wall Preserve and climbing the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment to Vaughns Gap.

View of Hogback Mountain from Blue Wall Passage

Peach Country Passage: 14.1 miles

The numerous peach orchards of the region are spectacular when blooming, which is why cycling the Peach Country Passage along the back roads from Inman to Landrum brings such joy in the spring. The passage traverses mostly lightly traveled gravel roads, except for a quarter mile on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (SC Hwy 11) near Campobello.

USC Upstate Passage: 1.3 miles

This short passage begins on the campus of the University of South Carolina Upstate campus in Spartanburg, SC, and descends through the woods to Lawson’s Fork Creek.

Hub City Connector: 12 miles

The Connector includes sections of greenways, bicycle lanes, and safe, signed sidewalks through the city of Spartanburg, traveling along the Mary Black Foundation Rail Trail and through Liberty Garden, and connecting the School for the Deaf and Blind, with downtown, Converse College, Wofford College, Spartanburg Regional Heart Center, Spartanburg Medical Center, and USC Upstate. Trail spurs include Chinquapin Greenway, a 1.6-mile trail spur located at the city’s northern gateway.

Croft Passage: 12.6 miles

In the 1700s, the area that today is part of Croft State Park was a hotbed of mills, trading, and political activity centered around the shoals. There was a Revolutionary militia victory at the First Battle of Cedar Springs in 1780, and during World War II it served as an Army training center.

Glenn Springs Passage: 7 miles

Rolling farmlands, mature forests, and the historic town of Glenn Springs highlight the Glenn Springs Passage. In the 19^th century, Glenn Springs was known for the health benefits of its mineral waters. Now listed in the National Register, the historic district includes 20 historic buildings from about 1840 to 1940 and the site of a popular resort hotel.

Blackstock Battlefield Passage: 4 miles

Enjoy four miles of nature trails, camping, and mountain biking along the Tyger River at the site where Revolutionary War patriots defeated the British; on November 20, 1780, patriot militia fighting under Gen. Thomas Sumter prevailed over British regulars under Lt. Col. Banastre Tarleton. Two months later Tarleton lost the Battle of Cowpens and fled north with his remaining troops.

Life on the Enoree

Enoree Passage: 36 miles

Hike or bike the 36 miles of trail through Sumter National Forest linking Newberry, Laurens and Union counties. The trail meanders through the diverse habitats located in the Enoree Ranger District and River corridor, while Macedonia, Sedalia, and John’s Creek lakes provide plenty of opportunities to fish on the way to the northern trailhead at Sedalia Campground.

Lynch’s Woods Passage: 4.9 miles

This Park is a well-kept secret just outside of Newberry. Created by the 1930s Civilian Conservation Corps, the park protects 276 acres of woodlands full of old-growth hardwoods and the rambling Rock Branch Creek and tributaries, and allows hiking, cycling and horseback riding. 

Newberry Passage: 11 miles

The Newberry Passage is one of three urban passages on the trail, taking you through the heart of Historic Downtown Newberry and showcasing a number of historical and cultural points of interest.

Peak to Prosperity Passage: 10.8 miles

The highlight of this section of trail is the impressive 1,100-foot-long Broad River trestle. From there the former railway follows Crims Creek west through the Dutch Fork area to Pomaria and Interstate 26. Read more about this Passage here.

Crossing the trestle bridge over the Broad River between Peak and Prosperity

Capital City Passage: 10.2 miles

The first urban passage on the Palmetto Trail features South Carolina’s largest city and seat of state government. The passage follows city sidewalks through Columbia’s neighborhoods, past city parks and schools, along the historic Horseshoe at the University of South Carolina, and across the steps of the State Capitol. The passage links Fort Jackson Passage to Riverfront Park and the Broad River.

Fort Jackson Passage: 16.2 miles

Fort Jackson Passage takes you through the heart and into the woods of this military facility located just east of Columbia, SC. Fort Jackson was established in 1917 in preparation for WWI, named in honor of Major General Andrew Jackson. At 52,000 acres, it’s the Army’s largest basic training center.

Wateree Passage: 11.4 miles

One of the most diverse sections of the Palmetto, this portion of the trail crosses swamps and hills on its way from Poinsett State Park then through the SCE&G property to Hwy 601. Passing through a section of Manchester State Forest traveling along the remnants of the old SC Railroad through Sumter Junction, it crosses over the Wateree River and Molly’s Bluff - elevation 260 feet – with excellent views across Wateree swamp.

High Hills of Santee Passage: 9.4 miles

Named for the high, sandy ridges that are part of the Sandhills geographical region, these rolling hills are the remains of an ancient ocean shoreline found in the Carolinas and Georgia. Over time, the beach sand and shells transformed into coquina, which can be seen today throughout the park. In the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps used the native stone to build many structures in the park. Birdwatching includes the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker.

Lake Marion Passage: 33.6 miles

This passage skirts along the north side of Lake Marion between Santee and Mill Creek County Park. A short side trip down Fort Watson Road leads to the site of ancient Santee Indian burial mounds (3,500 years old); the site is now part of Santee National Wildlife Refuge.

Santee Passage: 12.7 miles

This passage utilizes the dirt roads and rural highways of Orangeburg County, traveling through farmlands to the town of Santee.

Eutaw Springs Passage: 21.3 miles

From the site of the Revolutionary War Battle of Eutaw Springs to downtown Eutawville, with a 5-mile spur trail that connects to Santee-Cooper Wildlife Management Refuge and Lake Marion.

Lake Moultrie Passage: 26.9 miles

Hugging the eastern and northern shores of 60,000-acre Lake Moultrie, the views make this a popular passage for mountain bikers. Following levees and service roads, the trail crosses the Santee Canal and traverses the swamps around Bulltown Bay.

Swamp Fox Passage: 47.2 miles

This passage named for Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion is the Palmetto Trail’s longest. From the swamps of Francis Marion National Forest, to long-leaf pine forests that are home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, from the grassy savannas near Dog Swamp and Turkey Creek, to Wadboo Swamp; three trailheads provide users with plenty of options! Just make sure to bring plenty of water, as there is only one water source on the Swamp Fox Passage at the Ranger Station off Steed Creek Road.

Awendaw Passage: 7.1 miles

The coastal terminus of the mountains-to-sea Palmetto Trail, the Trail’s namesake trees greet users at the Buck Hall Recreation Area trailhead. Starting at the Intracoastal Waterway, the Trail meanders westward through maritime forest and offers sweeping vistas of Lowcountry salt marsh along Awendaw Creek. At Walnut Grove, look for a scenic overlook and boardwalk. A canoe launch for Awendaw Creek is located at the end of Rosa Green Road.

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One way to see the trail is during the Annual Palmetto Trail Challenge. Each year, Palmetto Conservation Foundation hosts The Palmetto Challenge to inspire teams of two, three, or four to hike or bike as many miles as possible between March 9 and April 26; more information can be found here.

If you want to see the state - really get out there and experience what South Carolina has to offer - the Palmetto Trail is the way to go! As Palmetto Conservation puts it: “Backcountry. Rails-to-Trail. Greenways. City sidewalks. Urban bikeways. Steps of the State Capitol. Bridle. (The trail) connects state and county parks, national forests, nature preserves, wildlife management areas, Revolutionary War battlefields, Native American paths, urban to rural, swamps to mountains, maritime to sandhills to piedmont, and much more…"

Well, what are you waiting for? You've got 350 miles to go!!!

From Peak to Prosperity on the Palmetto Trail

The Palmetto Trail is South Carolina’s longest pedestrian & bicycle trail and will measure 500 miles when finished, stretching from Walhalla in the Blue Ridge Mountains to Awendaw on the Intracoastal Waterway. Established in 1994, 350 miles of trail have been completed so far, eleven of which make up the Peak to Prosperity Passage.

Using the railbanking process, Palmetto Conservation purchased an 11 mile, 200” wide right-of-way from Norfolk Southern Railroad. The first 6.5 miles of the passage were opened to the public in 2009 after two volunteers, Charles Weber and Furman Miller, cleared and decked eight trestles. The trail has a total of 20 trestles, mostly crossing back and forth over Crims Creek, which parallels the trail to flow into the Broad just south of the Parr Reservoir.

Alston Trailhead

The east end of the passage is in Alston. Fairfield County donated the funds to develop the small trailhead park that includes the parking area, as well as a canoe launch and picnic tables right on the Broad River. A popular fishing spot, we saw the US Fish & Wildlife Service releasing fingerlings into the river on our recent visit.

From Alston, the trail crosses the Broad River on a former trestle, thanks to SC Parks, Recreation & Tourism who funded the conversion. The 1,100-foot-long bridge is a wonderful vantage point for glimpsing bald eagles, and turtles can usually be spotted sunning on the banks below. The trestle is also a popular location for photography and birdwatching. This first ½ mile section of trail is an official Kids in Parks TrackTrail (opened in June, 2020), you can find the brochures here.

Once across the bridge, the trail enters Newberry County and skirts Peak, SC. Established in the early 1850s to house workers building the Greenville and Columbia Railroad, it was named for railroad superintendent, H.T. Peak. The town incorporated in 1880, witnessed Federal troops destroying the tracks in 1865, and survived multiple fires, the most recent in 1978.

An access trail into Peak

The area between the Saluda River and the Broad River that the trail traverses west of Peak is known as the Dutch Fork, named for the Pennsylvania Dutch that settled the area between 1730 and 1766 when the SC government offered incentives for foreign Protestants to settle the backcountry.

Make sure to climb the stairs down to Crims Creek at Nathan's Trestle (#6). The rock structure that can be seen there is the original trestle buttress built in 1848 as part of the Greenville to Columbia Railroad. The trestle was burned in 1865 by the Union cavalry while withdrawing from the Confederate forces of Palmer's brigade, who were advancing from Newberry. 

Nathans Trestle 

At milepost 6.5 the trail passes by Pomaria. Originally named Countsville, there was a post office as early as 1823. In 1840 it was renamed Pomaria for William Summer’s nearby Pomaria Nursery; the root of the town’s name – pomology – is the study of fruit cultivation, which was a specialty of Summer. The Columbia and Newberry Railroad line came through in 1851, and the town was incorporated in 1903.

After crossing under Interstate 26, the trail soon arrives at Kibler Bridge Trailhead, the current western-most parking area for the passage (the trail continues another 1.25 miles west to just north of Eptings Pond). I recommend leaving a car at the Alston trailhead and then driving to Kibler Bridge if you plan on hiking/biking the trail one way; when traveling the trail east, you are descending around 225 feet in elevation to the Broad River over the 10 miles, and the Broad River Bridge makes a great finale to the adventure.

Turn-off for parking area on Kibler Bridge Road

Additional amenities include a campground between trestles 11 and 12 (at around mile marker 5.25), water and supplies at the Pomaria trailhead, and parking areas in Pomaria, Hope Station and Kibler’s Bridge. There are stairs at several of the trestles that lead down to picnic areas, and educational signage detailing the history and nature of the area along the way.

You can find the Palmetto Trail Peak to Prosperity Passage page here. 

Download the map here. 

The rail trail features a dozen small, round signs with QR codes you can scan into your phone or tablet to learn about the history, culture and natural resources of the area. Read more here. 

Finally, Tom at Random Connections has a great write-up here. 

Tall Pines Wildlife Management Area

Tall Pines Lake island

 

The South Carolina Department of Natural Resources on Friday announced that 1,757 acres in northern Greenville County are now open to the public as Tall Pines Wildlife Management Area (WMA). $3 million of the total of $4 million needed to preserve the site came from the South Carolina Conservation Bank, with the remainder covered by the SC DNR Heritage Land Trust Fund and timber management funds.

The parking area for Tall Pines WMA is located some 8 miles north of Travelers Rest at 552 Moody Bridge Road, and the gravel lot looks out over Tall Pines Lake, one of the ponds on the property. Braided footpaths along the shoreline are evidence that this is a popular spot for angling; fishing website hookandbullet reports perch, largemouth bass, rainbow trout, crappie and bullhead. In the center of the lake is a small island with a block structure; the small tower is certainly unique, though my research didn’t reveal a purpose other than aesthetic.

Tall Pines Wildlife Management Area parking

For a short ¾ mile loop hike, follow the old road behind the red gate from the corner of the parking area. It climbs a little in elevation, with a view of Table Rock to the west. Once you reach a second red gate at Moody Bridge Road, make a sharp turn and follow the old road south. You’ll hear the frogs before you see the lake, the north end being quite marshy. The road brings you to the point where two lakes connect, and from here it’s just a matter of following the narrow footpaths along the shoreline to return to the parking lot.

View of Table Rock from Tall Pines WMA

In addition to the lakes, Tall Pines also has wetlands, about 600ft of elevation change to the top of Little Mountain, and a mile of frontage on the South Saluda River. From the parking area, cross Moody Bridge Road and follow the old road west to access the river. You’ll see the ruins of a structure down on the creek, and the woods have quite a bit of evidence of past agricultural activity: wire fencing rolls, old machinery, miscellaneous debris. The road emerges to one of several meadows before taking a turn south to follow a second creek upstream. On our recent visit this area was completely flooded (and evidence of beavers abounded) – plan on getting your feet wet if you are going to hike the system of old roads that crisscross the western half of Tall Pines. Or, you can skirt the edge of the field to reach the Saluda.

South Saluda river frontage on Tall Pines WMA

The South Saluda runs parallel to Scenic Highway 11 for some 3 miles, then turns south to tumble through the Class III-IV/V rapids at Blythe Shoals. There is a Naturaland Trust River Access and Parking Area at 25 S. Blythe Shoals Road that serves this stretch of the river, although after passing through the shoals and under Talley Bridge Road the waters calm considerably. The one mile of South Saluda fronting Tall Pines runs quick and clear, high banks complicating access. In addition to the trout lilies and other native species there are plenty of privet, multiflora rose and other invasives, further tangling the banks. The tributary from Tall Pines Lakes empties into the river between the two fields, and the waters continue south, eventually passing west of Greenville and through Piedmont on their way to Lake Murray.

Looking down from Moody Bridge Rd. to creek connecting Tall Pines Lakes and South Saluda

The SC DNR has expressed hope that Twin Pines will become a destination for anglers and paddlers, as well as offering hiking, birdwatching and hunting opportunities; the WMA provides habitat for fish, deer, turkey, quail and small game. There is no formal boat launch at Twin Pines, but the road allows for easy access with canoe and kayak. And while there is no official trail system as of now, the acreage can be explored utilizing the pre-existing system of old roads. Download a map of Tall Pines Wildlife Management Area here: http://www.dnr.sc.gov/news/2019/feb/TallPinesWMAmap2019.pdf.

Exploring Lake Jocassee

There is no doubt that the best way to explore the 75 miles of Lake Jocassee’s shoreline is by water. The 7,500 acre lake is at the heart of the Jocassee Gorges, regarded by National Geographic as one of “50 of the World’s Last Great Places,” and the uniqueness of the area in terms of geography, plant diversity and natural beauty is second to none. The majority of land around Lake Jocassee is protected from development, a large portion being part of the Jim Timmerman Natural Resources Area at Jocassee Gorges. Meanwhile public road access is mostly restricted to Devils Fork State Park at the very south end of the lake. Public boat ramps at the Park were our means of access on a recent visit; for more on Devils Fork State Park and its trails and amenities please visit my post, Devils Fork.

Lake Jocassee is tremendously deep, up to 350’ in places. At the southeast corner of the lake you’ll find the Jocassee Hydro Station holding back all this water, standing 385 feet high and 1,750 feet long, and separating Jocassee from what eventually becomes Lake Keowee. The shoreline north of the dam is popular with boaters due to the tall cliffs rising out of the water. You’ll often see multiple pontoons anchored and swimmers enjoying the aqua waters, and the white sand beach (depending on the water level) will even have folks with barbecues and tents on sunny weekends.

Created by the state of SC in partnership with Duke Power in 1973, Jocassee is famous for its clear and cool waters, fed by rivers descending from the Appalachians. The easternmost is Horsepasture River, which flows into the northeast corner of Lake Jocassee along with Toxaway River, together forming the right ‘arm’ of the lake. Access to the wilderness to the east is complicated. Horsepasture Road winds 16 unpaved miles through the Jocassee Gorges from Rocky Bottom and the Eastatoe Gorge all the way to Lake Keowee, with a handful of smaller two-tracks (not always open to vehicle traffic) and a network of trails providing some access. However, the terrain is breathtakingly rugged, and while there are spectacular views of Lake Jocassee along Horsepasture Road (see my post on Jumping Off Rock), the only way to get down to the lake is via an arduous hike, such as on the Foothills Trail.

Laurel Fork Falls, from cove and from grotto

The large, steep valleys that surround Lake Jocassee are responsible for a large number of waterfalls, many of which are visible from the water. The crown jewel is Laurel Fork Falls, an 80 foot waterfall that is on the same river that flows over Virginia Hawkins Falls (see my post on the Laurel Fork Heritage Preserve). Although the view from the Laurel Creek cove is extraordinary, you'll have to turn the corner into the grotto behind the rocky tower to see the waterfall plunge into the lake (see photo above). Nearby you’ll find an access trail to the Foothills Trail along with multiple other waterfalls including Devils Hole Creek Falls and Mills Creek Falls. Additional popular destinations on the east arm of Jocassee include the many small islands jutting out of the turquoise waters, and a rock formation our friends call ‘jump off point’ due to the convenient access to a ledge for jumping into the lake. *PLEASE exercise extreme caution when jumping into any lake, checking depth and searching for obstructions (underwater as well as above water) as well as considering safe footing.* Navigating to the mouths of Horsepasture and Toxaway Rivers will take you into North Carolina, so make sure you’ve got your passport with if you’re headed that far…

Cliffs near the Jocassee Hydro Station

Flowing into Lake Jocassee in the northwest corner of the lake are Whitewater River and Thompson River, together forming a left ‘arm’ to Lake Jocassee. Land access to this corner of the lake is via trails from the Bad Creek Trail Access Point; the Bad Creek Hydroelectric Station on Whitewater River is a 1,065 megawatt pumped-storage facility that started generating electricity in 1991 and is owned by Duke Power. The Bad Creek site provides a trailhead for the Foothills Trail, a trail through the Coon Branch Natural Area, and a ½ mile spur trail to the Whitewater River. While there is a platform overlooking Lower Whitewater Falls off the Foothills Trail, a small waterfall on Whitewater River can be seen from Lake Jocassee (Lower Lower Whitewater Falls?) just beyond the hydro station. Further east are Wright Creek Falls and Thompson Falls, as well as multiple unnamed waterfalls that are more/less easily found depending on water flow. A map of the larger waterfalls can be found online here (please note that what is labeled ‘Unnamed Falls’ is actually located at the mouth of Bad Creek).

Waterfalls on Lake Jocassee clockwise from top left: Wright Creek Falls, Thompson River Falls (from top), Devils Hole Creek Falls and Mills Creek Falls

As you follow what used to be Whitewater River back south to the main reservoir and the Devils Fork State Park boat ramps, at some point you’ll pass over the remains of Atakulla Lodge. The structure was left standing when the valley was dammed, and preserved by the cold waters of Jocassee, the Lodge still stands under 300’ of water. Experienced divers can visit the site, as well as the Mount Carmel Baptist Church Cemetery (a setting for a scene in the film Deliverance, 1972) which is about 130 feet underwater on the lake’s south end.

Guided waterfalls tours are available, fresh water fishing charters depart from the boat ramp at the park, and boats ranging from kayaks to pontoons can be rented from various vendors in the area. Fishermen will be excited to learn that Lake Jocassee holds state records for 5 species of fish: redeye bass, smallmouth bass, spotted bass, brown trout and rainbow trout. Visitors can either stay at one of the park's villas, in the campground, or at one of the many nearby private vacation rentals. Regardless, plan a return trip to Devils Fork in the spring to view the rare Oconee Bell wildflower, and hit Bear Cove trail in the autumn for the fall foliage. However you choose to explore the Jocassee Gorges, an exploration of Lake Jocassee by boat should be on your South Carolina bucket list; nothing compares to a day spent soaking in the resplendent beauty of its pristine shores, turquoise waters and cascading waterfalls with a backdrop of breathtaking blue mountains.

A rainy day on the Gulf Shore at St. Andrews State Park

The Florida State Parks system is pretty incredible… 175 parks, trails and historic sites are scattered around the state, providing public access to some of the most beautiful beaches, scenic natural areas, and historic landmarks in the Southeast. The next stop on our Florida panhandle exploration was St. Andrews State Park, part of the barrier island chain that protects Panama City.

The park was originally opened in 1951 with 302 acres along the Gulf Shore. Now more than 1,200 acres, the area has a long history of human presence, from the Native Americans who collected shellfish from the surrounding waters, to the WWII military reservation. We awoke to a steady drizzle, but decided to head to St. Andrews regardless in hopes the rain would taper off and allow us the opportunity to explore.

As often is our habit, we started off in the Visitor Center. Because of the weather we had it pretty much to ourselves, and after watching a movie and admiring the dozens of species of shells found in the park, a ranger introduced us to the resident corn snake.

Our original plan was to take the ferry out to Shell Island, originally Lands End Peninsula but separated when Gulf-Bay Pass was dredged in the 1930s. Shell Island is reputed to be a stretch of beach as peaceful and unspoiled as can be found in Florida, with a plethora of shells to be found and seabird & sea turtle nests in the dunes. However it was not meant to be; the ferry wasn’t running due to the weather, and we wouldn’t be able to stick around for another day in hopes of a sunnier day.

peek-a-boo!

Our perseverance was rewarded though, as the near-empty park was our playground for the morning. We donned our raincoats and headed to Gator Lake trail for a short hike, and had barely left the car when we saw our first alligator. For the less adventurous, a pier provides a safe vantage point over the lake, while those looking to stretch their legs will find scenic lakeside views on a short loop trail. Heron Pond Trail is the second option, located near the ferry boat pier. It traverses a flatwood pine forest, leading past the replica turpentine still; the Cracker Turpentine Still was donated in 1963 by the Lewis Family and relocated from Bristol. Both Gator Lake and Heron Pond trails provide visitors with multiple wildlife viewing opportunities, from the resident alligators to a variety of waterfowl & wading birds. Opposite the parking area for the Gator Lake trail (which is home to a great blue heron rookery) is Buttonbush Marsh, which can be easily accessed by an overlook on the north portion of the loop road, and here you’ll see dozens of species of birds feeding and nesting.

After a snack we headed out to the beach, the rain slowly clearing as we crossed over the boardwalk out to the grey waters of the Gulf. At the very tip of the peninsula is the Gun Mount Pavilion, home to one of the original gun mounts that overlooked the pass back in the 1940s. A jetty protects a beach area facing Shell Island, while a long stretch of white sands connect to the Gulf Fishing Pier. We walked, searched for shells, marveled at the beauty of the dunes rising over the beach and tried to stay warm in the Gulf winds.

The recreational options seem endless: hiking, biking, boating, swimming, camping, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling and surfing… Despite (or maybe in spite?) of the rain we had gotten a taste of St. Andrews State Park and the white sand beaches of the Gulf barrier islands, and luckily there would be more opportunities to enjoy the waters in the days to come…

Croft State Park

Croft State Park might best be known for the horseback riding and mountain biking trails that zigzag its 7,000 acres, but once you’ve fished one of the two lakes, hiked on the 12-mile trail system, or set up a tent in the campground, you’ll discover that this versatile State Park just five miles from downtown Spartanburg is a perfect day-trip destination!

We most often visit Croft in the autumn when cooler temperatures make hiking more enjoyable, and as the forest is predominantly hardwoods, the fall foliage can be quite colorful. This autumn color often stretches into November, being as the park is further south than its Upstate counterparts. 

A short history:

The area was once home to a farming community, and old farmsteads and cemeteries can be found throughout the park. Whitestone Springs was a tourist attraction in the late 1800’s, and the foundation of a 4 story hotel still exists in the park today, along with evidence of the bottling business that was fed by the spring. During WWII the park became an Army infantry training camp that housed 250,000 soldiers. The camp was closed in 1947, and after two years was opened to the public as a park; today it is one of the largest State Parks in SC.

Getting there:

There are multiple entrances into the park that are connected with the network of trails. Lake Johnson on the north side and the Southside Parking lot are not accessible from Park Road (the main road that leads into the park from Dairy Ridge Rd.) by car, so consult a map beforehand so that you know where you are headed. The camping area, the equestrian facilities, the park office and access to Lake Craig are all located off Park Road, as well the 1.5-mile Nature Trail, our favorite Croft trail.

Things to do:

Although all of the horse & bike trails are open to hiking, I find the terrain and length of Nature Trail challenging enough for my 3 year old, without the stress of equine encounters. Parking for this trail is available just adjacent to the horse show ring; directly across the road is the Fairforest Creek trailhead and the Nature Trail entrance just a few hundred feet further. The Nature Trail lollipop loop trail offers a stroll through an upland mixed pine and hardwood forest before descending to the rocky shoals of Fairforest Creek.

The headwaters of Fairforest Creek are up near the intersection of Interstates 85 and 26, and after flowing through Spartanburg and Croft SP it eventually becomes Fair Forest River before emptying into the Tyger River near Rose Hill Plantation State Historic Site. The creek is shallow and wide near the Nature Trail, with sandbars and large rocks that beg exploring; however, as with most rivers in the Upstate be warned that according to the State of SC “recreational uses are not supported at this site due to fecal coliform bacteria excursions.”

Upon emerging from the woods you’ll find yourself back at the Horse Show Ring. Horseback riding in South Carolina state parks is widely popular, and Croft is known around the region for its equestrian facilities and over 20 miles of trail open to horse traffic. The park regularly hosts shows in its arena, and has horse stalls available for those camping with horses.

Croft State Park also features 12.6 miles of the Palmetto Trail, the mountains-to-the-sea trail that will one day extend 425 miles from the Oconee County mountains to the Intracoastal Waterway in Charleston County. 

A visit to Croft isn’t complete without a stop at one of the two lakes. Fishing is allowed on Lake Craig and Lake Johnson, and canoes, kayaks and jon boats (as well as paddles and life jackets) are available for rent.

A children’s playground and picnic shelters are also centrally located within the park. Croft does have a shooting range; for more information on any of the amenities, please visit the Croft SP website or stop in at the Park Office!