Gulf Islands – Fort Barrancas

Situated on the bluffs overlooking Pensacola Bay, Fort Barrancas was built between 1839 and 1844 with the goal to protect the Bay and the Pensacola Navy Yard. The third fort established on the bay, it was constructed over the ruins of a 1798 Spanish fort named Fort San Carlos de Barrancas. Situated below the barrancas (Spanish for bluffs) was a 1797 water battery named Bateria de San Antonio which was modified to serve as a water battery for the new fort, and connected by a tunnel. To the north was the advanced redoubt, constructed to defend the northern side of the peninsula on which the navy yard was located.

Today, Fort Barrancas is part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, which stretches 160 miles along the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico and includes everything from the picturesque white beaches of Florida postcards to maritime forests, bayous, and marine habitat. In the Pensacola Bay area there are multiple parcels that are part of Gulf Islands NS, among others including Naval Live Oaks, and two of the forts that historically fortified the Bay: Fort Pickens and Fort Barrancas. The third Pensacola Bay fort, Fort McRee, is the only one of 42 Third System Forts built between 1816 and 1870 to have completely disappeared. Other Third System Forts include Fort McHenry outside Baltimore, Maryland and Fort Sumter in Charleston, SC.

If you plan on visiting the Fort, be aware that it is located within the Naval Air Station Pensacola, an active military base. All civilian visitors must enter through the West Gate (beware your GPS directions!) and must show proper identification; please see the Park Service website for more details.

After a short stop at the Visitor Center we followed the trail located behind it up a hill. At first all we could see was an American flag, but as we reached the ridge we could suddenly see it all: the fort and water battery, Radford Boulevard winding its way back to the Pensacola Lighthouse, and the blue waters of the bay.

Crossing the drawbridge we entered the main portion of the fort. During the Civil War Forts Barrancas and McRee (as well as the Advanced Redoubt and the navy yard) were occupied by Florida and Alabama militia. The fort was used to organize and train Confederate soldiers, and the cannon were used in a bombardment of Fort Pickens on November 22 & 23 in 1861. When the Confederate army evacuated Pensacola in May of 1862 it was reclaimed by US troops, and the only other action it saw was an attack on the Advanced Redoubt by the Confederate on October 8, 1863.

The boys enjoyed exploring the various rooms and tunnels, and soon we crossed the parade ground to enter the tunnel that leads to the water battery. The battery was originally constructed by the Spanish, who had learned from one of the least known but most significant battles of the American Revolution (when the Spanish took Pensacola from the British) that Royal Navy Redoubt’s position up on the bluff had rendered its fire ineffective. The water redoubt’s design was such that cannon projectiles from the battery would ricochet off the surface of the bay to hit ships at the water line, causing maximum damage. The water battery is the third oldest standing fortification in Florida; only Castillo de San Marcos and Fort Matanzas in St. Augustine are older.

To tour the advanced redoubt visitors have to hike up the ½ mile Trench Trail or drive up to the second parking lot. Fort Barrancas was a powerful defense against a naval attack on the bay, but was exposed to a land attack as the Spanish learned in 1818 when Andrew Jackson was able to plant artillery on a nearby hilltop within range of their fort. Designed to defend against a land assault, the fort was designed to be held by a small body of infantry with a few field guns. By the time construction was finished in 1870, it was already outdated.

Fort Barrancas also quickly became obsolete because of new developments to cannon and naval war vessels, but in 1902 it was equipped with a Fire Commander’s Station to help direct artillery fire from Santa Rosa Island and Perdido Key. The Coast Artillery Corps manned the defenses until World War II, after which Fort Barrancas was declared surplus in 1947. After becoming part of Gulf Islands National Seashore it underwent extensive restoration, which was completed by the National Park Service in 1980.

While at the Naval Air Station Pensacola, make sure to also visit the Pensacola Lighthouse. For more on the Gulf Island National Seashore and area, please see my posts:

   Naval Live Oaks

   Fort Pickens
   A fascination with aviation in Florida's panhandle

Gulf Islands - Pensacola Lighthouse

Although it’s the Forgotten Coast that is known for its lighthouses on this stretch of the Gulf, the Emerald Coast holds its own; the Pensacola Lighthouse is a striking addition to the region that allows for a different perspective of Florida’s scenic coastline.

If you plan on visiting the Pensacola Lighthouse, be aware that it is located within the Naval Air Station Pensacola, an active military base. All civilian visitors must enter through the West Gate (beware your GPS directions!) and must show proper identification; please see the lighthouse website for more details. On our recent visit we were more prepared than the time we tried to visit the Cape Henry Lighthouse (as in, we knew we would be visiting a military installation!), and made it through the security checkpoint with little delay.

The lighthouse is open to visitors daily (except for certain holidays) from 9am to 5pm, however the last climber is admitted to the tower at 4:45pm so make sure to give yourself plenty of time to get through the security checkpoint. Admission is $7/adult, $4/children under 12, $4/seniors and $4/military. Please note that on days that the Blue Angels are practicing there is an increased admission of $20 and reservations are required as space is limited (see my post on the National Naval Aviation Museum for more on the Blue Angels).

Construction of the first lighthouse in the area was begun in 1824, resulting in a 40ft white brick tower equipped with 10 whale oil lamps. Over the next thirty years Fort Pickens was constructed at the western tip of Santa Rosa Island, Fort McRee was built at the eastern tip of Perdido Key, and Fort Barrancas was built on the bluffs a half a mile east, the three forts tasked with defending the mouth of Pensacola Bay. Florida was admitted to the Union, and then in 1854 funds were appropriated to replace the Pensacola Lighthouse. Construction began a half mile west of the original in 1856, and on New Year’s Day, 1859, the new lighthouse was lit for the first time. 151ft tall, it boasted a first-order Fresnel lens.

In 1861, Florida seceded from the Union; Confederate troops took Forts Barrancas & McRee and along with them the lighthouse, and in December the base of the tower was struck by shot from Fort Pickens and damaged in at least three places. When Union forces took possession in 1862, a captured fourth-order lens was installed, the first-order lens not being restored until 1869. Over the years the lighthouse was damaged by elements ranging from lightning to ducks, but the structure survived earthquakes and hurricanes as well as full automation to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.

Named one of the most haunted lighthouses in the US, the Travel Channel and Syfy’s Ghost Hunters have investigated the site (See season 5 episode 22 of Ghost Hunters). Today visitors can take a ghost tour in the historic 1869 Keeper's Quarters, or purchase a copy of Ghostly Beacons: Haunted Lighthouses of North America in the gift shop to learn more about the various grisly happenings that have happened over the years, and the paranormal activity that supposedly goes on in this 160 year old structure.

We crossed to the lighthouse in the dappled shade of enormous live oaks, and then it was 177 steps to reach one of the most beautiful views on the Gulf Coast. We could see Fort Pickens and the white sands of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, the dark green treetops of pines and oaks scattered through the military base, and in the distance the skyline of Pensacola. Just to the east was Fort Barrancas, on our itinerary for later on in the morning, and beyond it all stretched the blue waters of the Gulf.

Only two of the boys elected to climb with me, and so Roberts stayed grounded with Vilis while we went on our lighthouse adventure. The 1890s Carriage House was renovated in the 1990s to serve as the Visitor’s Center and museum shop, and when they were done exploring that they headed out to blue waters on the short Nature Trail. Although no swimming is allowed, the crystalline waters of the Bay and Gulf washing up on the white sand beach are always a treat for bare feet.

We timed our visit to coincide with cooler morning temperatures, heading to the adjacent National Naval Aviation Museum (and air conditioning) once the heat settled in. The boys agree that the climb to the top was worth it, and we suggest a stop at the Pensacola Lighthouse for anyone visiting the area.

Related posts: Lighthouses of the Forgotten Coast

A Fascination with Aviation in Florida's Panhandle

Gulf Islands - Fort Pickens

Gulf Islands - Naval Live Oaks
Gulf Islands - Fort Barrancas

Gulf Islands - Fort Pickens

Happy Fourth of July!!!

What better way to celebrate Independence Day than with a post on a massive US fort in one of our most beautiful National Parks? Gulf Islands National Seashore stretches 160 miles along the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico and includes everything from the picturesque white beaches of Florida postcards to maritime forests, bayous, and marine habitat. In the Pensacola Bay area there are multiple parcels that are part of Gulf Islands NS, among others including Naval Live Oaks, and two of the forts that historically fortified the Bay: Fort Barrancas and Fort Pickens.

After the War of 1812 it was clear that Pensacola Bay (along with the various military installations taking advantage of the strategic port waters) was in need of protection, and three forts were proposed for the task: Fort Pickens on the western end of Santa Rosa Island, Fort McRee the eastern end of Perdido Key, and Fort Barrancas on the bluffs north of the channel. Fort McRee was heavily damaged during the Civil War in 1861 and was not re-built – all that remains today is the foundation of the one of the batteries. However, the other forts remained in use until WWII, and can be explored today during a visit to the Gulf Islands NS. It is easy to understand the significance of the location of the three forts; when looking out over the channel you can see where Fort McRee was located, as well as Barrancas; the first was directly across on Perdido Key, and Barrancas is near the Pensacola Lighthouse on the mainland. 

Fort Pickens was named for Revolutionary War General Andrew Pickens, and it was the largest of the three forts built on the harbor.  The design (a pentagon) was influenced by the geography of the barrier island with the intent to control the approach to the channel and to control access to the bay.  

Just as with Fort Barrancas & McRee, the only combat the fort saw took place during the Civil War. In October 1861 Confederate soldiers launched an attack against Union forces encamped outside the fort. Following the Battle of Santa Rosa Island, Union forces twice bombarded the other two forts (November 1861 and January 1862), nearly destroying Fort McRee and the navy yard. Confederates abandoned Pensacola in May of 1862.

Battery Langdon

From 1886 to 1888, 16 Apache men including Goyahkla (also known as Geronimo) were imprisoned at Port Pickens, separated from their families for over a year before the women and children were also brought to the island. In May of 1888 the Apaches were moved to the Mount Vernon Barracks north of Mobile AL, and a final time in 1894 to a reservation in Oklahoma.

Rays swimming in formation

After the Civil War Fort Pickens saw the addition of new batteries, rifled cannon and underwater minefield equipment. In 1898 Battery Pensacola was added, one of the many reinforced concrete batteries built on the island. Today as visitors drive the winding road across the island they encounter various self-guided battery tours and other historical markers, however the majority of visitors are lured to Santa Rosa by the white-sand beaches.

In addition to touring the historic fort, the Pickens area also boasts fishing, swimming, hiking, biking, birdwatching, picnicking and camping opportunities. Fishing piers allow access to deeper waters, and parking areas adjacent to the Gulf of Mexico have restroom and shower facilities. Ferries run to the island from Pensacola and Pensacola Beach, providing an alternate means of access other than driving in from Pensacola Beach via Fort Pickens Road.

Look for one of the many osprey nests on the island

For more on the Gulf Island National Seashore:

   Naval Live Oaks

   Fort Barrancas
   Pensacola Lighthouse

Gulf Islands: Naval Live Oaks

What started as a blog to keep family and friends abreast of our adventures whilst living in France has evolved into something completely different: a travel journal, a photo album of three boys growing up, a diary of a mother who can’t bear to lose the adventurous sense of self that sustained her in her 20s… And, somewhere along the way I have written and published 999 posts, the French entries now buried in a sea of southeast US with a smattering of Baltic Christmas articles arriving every December.

For the topic of my 1,000^th post it seems only fitting to write about the live oak – also long-lived, southern, and dense! The massive shade tree is the stuff of romance novels, historical fiction, ghost stories, mysteries and many a southern author’s work, as it conjures up images of Spanish moss-draped branches and tree-lined alleys leading to grand estates and plantation homes. A little known fact about this magnificent tree is that the rot-resistant wood and arching branches were ideal for building ships. However, over 2,000 live oaks might be used to build one hull, and so to provide wood for naval shipbuilding, President John Quincy Adams designated the first federal tree farm in 1828.

President Adams called the U.S. Navy “Wooden Walls,” and considered the Navy the 1^st line of defense against foreign invasion. The high concentration of military installations in the Florida panhandle testifies to the history of military presence in the area, and it comes as no surprise that the first tree farm was established in the heart of live oak territory, near Pensacola, FL. Although short-lived as a supplier of wood, the Naval Live Oaks Area is today a part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, and preserves 1,400 acres for visitors to enjoy.

The entrance to the parking area adjacent to Park Headquarters, visitor center and facilities is easily passed, located on a stretch of Highway 98 on a peninsula that lies between two bays; to the south is a barrier island and Pensacola Beach, to the north Pensacola Bay and Pensacola itself. Hidden behind a screen of pines and live oaks, the visitor center is a wealth of information and a great primer for your visit to the Gulf Islands Seashore. However, shortcomings such as separate restroom facilities (visitors and the volunteers manning the center must walk 1/3 mile through the parking area to reach the bathroom) and poor signage guarantee that most tourists will pass on by on their way to one of the other Gulf Islands districts.

The interpretive signs on the boardwalk trail have information in braille

From the Visitor Center it is an easy stroll on the Brackenridge Nature Trail, with markers identifying plants and describing the steps of shipbuilding from locating and felling the trunks and branches, to construction of the ship itself. A portion of the trail is wheelchair accessible, and the figure 8 path has an observation deck at the far end overlooking Santa Rosa Sound.

A second parking area and a network of trails connects to Butcherpen Cove on the north side of the pensinsula (popular for swimming), as well as to Brown’s Pond and an old borrow pit which provided sand for the construction of US Hwy 98. Picnic areas, a pavilion, beach areas, and youth group camping area are the only other amenities, however the trail system does explore the native plant communities, proving Naval Live Oaks to be a worthwhile stop on your exploration of the Pensacola area.

Finally, a few fun facts for the history buff:

* The USS Constitution (the US Navy’s oldest commissioned war vessel) is nicknamed “Old Ironsides” because cannon balls bounced off its oak hull in a battle during the War of 1812. Although the ship was originally constructed with live oak from GA, timber from the Pensacola area was utilized for the 1929 restoration.

* President Adam’s successor (President Andrew Jackson) closed the tree farm in a political squabble after taking office. However, the emergence of ironclad ships in the Civil War marked the end of wooden ocean-going vessels regardless of political manuevering. 

* Naval Live Oaks was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places on September 28, 1998.

A fascination with aviation in Florida's panhandle

If you’ve ever driven along the coast of the Florida panhandle then you know that there is more than one military installation in the western portion of the state. Tyndall, Eglin, Choctaw, Pensacola… on a visit to any one of the big towns you’ll probably see signs directing you to the bases, and you’ll hear a variety of military aircraft flying over on maneuvers and training. However, if you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of an airplane you don’t have to wait with a view to the sky; you can just head to one of two aviation museums in the panhandle for an adventure in flight and history!

Air Force Armament Museum, Eglin Air Force Base

On our way from Panama City and St. Andrews State Park to Pensacola we stopped at the Air Force Armament Museum (AFAM) near Destin. Located on Eglin Air Force Base, the AFAM is dedicated solely to the collection, preservation and exhibition of artifacts and memorabilia associated with Air Force Armament and its delivery platforms. From World War I to today's high tech planes and bombs, aviation and history buffs alike can enjoy an extensive collection of aircraft as well as the history and science behind the weaponry and airplanes.

Inside the enormous hall you’ll find four aircraft, cockpit simulators and the museum. Exhibits include the “Early Years” as well as sections on the Korean, Vietnam and Gulf Wars. It was intimidating seeing the missiles and bombs up close, and interesting to see the progression of guns, special ops and other equipment over time.

Outside on the surrounding complex are 30 displays of vintage military aircrafts and other equipment, including the fastest plane ever built - the SR-71 Blackbird. We recognized multiple airplanes from the Collings Foundation Wings of Freedom and the Commemorative Air Force Fighters & Bombers tours in Greenville, however there were many airplanes, helicopters, armored vehicles and drones that the kids and I had never seen up close.

The B-17 bomber

The museum is open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, Monday - Saturday (except on federal holidays), and admission to the museum is free. I would suggest exploring the outdoor exhibits in the morning when it is cooler, or on an overcast day, while the museum can offer a reprieve from the Florida sun or something to do on a rainy day.

Air Force Armament Museum website here.

The Sikorsky MH-53

National Naval Aviation Museum, Naval Air Station Pensacola

During our time in Pensacola we spent one day on the Naval Air Station side with stops at the Pensacola Lighthouse, Fort Barrancas, and the National Naval Aviation Museum (NNAM). The NNAM is enormous, housing more than 150 historic aircraft and an array of exhibits, artwork and memorabilia documenting historic figures and events in Naval Aviation. 350,000 square feet of exhibit space makes it one of the largest aviation museums in the world.

Located just a few miles from the beach where the Navy’s first air station was established in 1914, the Museum is adjacent to Forrest Sherman Field, home to Training Air Wing Six and the Navy’s Blue Angels who can often be seen training overhead.

From the record-setters that explored the South Pole and first crossed oceans, to battle-scarred veterans from Midway to Iraq – NNAM has it all. A 4D Blue Angels Experience, flight simulators and a Naval Aviation Memorial Giant Screen Theater offer additional adventures (for tickets prices see the NNAM website). The boys particularly enjoyed the “Kiddie Hawk” area, modeled to look like the island of an aircraft carrier and featuring items that are found on a real ship.

Admission to NNAM is also free (although this does not include the simulators and theater experiences I mentioned above), and the Museum is open 9am to 5pm daily. It is important to note that visitors 16 years and older must have valid photo identification, and if you don’t possess a Department of Defense ID you must enter and exit the Naval Air Station Pensacola through the West Gate off Blue Angel Parkway. On some days there are special events including Blue Angels visits (there was a naval wedding on the day we visited), so you might want to check out the schedule of events.

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While neither museum compared to the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in size, they were both among the boys’ favorite destinations on our Florida panhandle trip. From close-up looks at some of coolest airplanes ever made, to the chance to clamber into cockpits – the kids just ate it up. I found the insight into aviation history interesting, although standing next to the first airplane to cross the Atlantic by air (NC-4) or the SBD Dauntless Bureau Number 2106 that survived the Battle of Midway offered its own thrill. There is nothing to make you feel quite as tiny as being in the shade of a B-52!

The historic NC-4

Whatever your reason for heading to Florida’s panhandle, I suggest a visit to one of these two museums. Admission to both sites is free, but the experience – priceless.

A rainy day on the Gulf Shore at St. Andrews State Park

The Florida State Parks system is pretty incredible… 175 parks, trails and historic sites are scattered around the state, providing public access to some of the most beautiful beaches, scenic natural areas, and historic landmarks in the Southeast. The next stop on our Florida panhandle exploration was St. Andrews State Park, part of the barrier island chain that protects Panama City.

The park was originally opened in 1951 with 302 acres along the Gulf Shore. Now more than 1,200 acres, the area has a long history of human presence, from the Native Americans who collected shellfish from the surrounding waters, to the WWII military reservation. We awoke to a steady drizzle, but decided to head to St. Andrews regardless in hopes the rain would taper off and allow us the opportunity to explore.

As often is our habit, we started off in the Visitor Center. Because of the weather we had it pretty much to ourselves, and after watching a movie and admiring the dozens of species of shells found in the park, a ranger introduced us to the resident corn snake.

Our original plan was to take the ferry out to Shell Island, originally Lands End Peninsula but separated when Gulf-Bay Pass was dredged in the 1930s. Shell Island is reputed to be a stretch of beach as peaceful and unspoiled as can be found in Florida, with a plethora of shells to be found and seabird & sea turtle nests in the dunes. However it was not meant to be; the ferry wasn’t running due to the weather, and we wouldn’t be able to stick around for another day in hopes of a sunnier day.

peek-a-boo!

Our perseverance was rewarded though, as the near-empty park was our playground for the morning. We donned our raincoats and headed to Gator Lake trail for a short hike, and had barely left the car when we saw our first alligator. For the less adventurous, a pier provides a safe vantage point over the lake, while those looking to stretch their legs will find scenic lakeside views on a short loop trail. Heron Pond Trail is the second option, located near the ferry boat pier. It traverses a flatwood pine forest, leading past the replica turpentine still; the Cracker Turpentine Still was donated in 1963 by the Lewis Family and relocated from Bristol. Both Gator Lake and Heron Pond trails provide visitors with multiple wildlife viewing opportunities, from the resident alligators to a variety of waterfowl & wading birds. Opposite the parking area for the Gator Lake trail (which is home to a great blue heron rookery) is Buttonbush Marsh, which can be easily accessed by an overlook on the north portion of the loop road, and here you’ll see dozens of species of birds feeding and nesting.

After a snack we headed out to the beach, the rain slowly clearing as we crossed over the boardwalk out to the grey waters of the Gulf. At the very tip of the peninsula is the Gun Mount Pavilion, home to one of the original gun mounts that overlooked the pass back in the 1940s. A jetty protects a beach area facing Shell Island, while a long stretch of white sands connect to the Gulf Fishing Pier. We walked, searched for shells, marveled at the beauty of the dunes rising over the beach and tried to stay warm in the Gulf winds.

The recreational options seem endless: hiking, biking, boating, swimming, camping, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling and surfing… Despite (or maybe in spite?) of the rain we had gotten a taste of St. Andrews State Park and the white sand beaches of the Gulf barrier islands, and luckily there would be more opportunities to enjoy the waters in the days to come…

Lighthouses of the Forgotten Coast

My middle son is the lighthouse aficionado, the one who always says yes to climb to the top of the many lighthouses we’ve encountered in our travels. Our recent trip to Florida’s panhandle was no different, and although Lauris joined us on one of our climbs, it was mostly up to Mikus and me to scale these historic beacons and report back to the rest of the crew.

View over St. Joseph Bay including smoke from prescribed burn on T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

Our trip started on the east end of the panhandle, and on a day trip to Wakulla Springs State Park we were delighted to find a brochure detailing the “Lighthouse Driving Tour of Florida’s Forgotten Coast.” First on the tour is St. Mark’s Lighthouse, the second oldest in Florida. Built in 1842, the tower stands on the shores of Apalachee Bay at the mouth of the St. Marks River. My first visit to the lighthouse was in 2005 during a visit to St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, and everything looks much the same as it did then. 85 steps to the lantern room, 4 foot thick tower walls, a whitewashed exterior. The tower is not currently open to climbing, although the Keeper’s House is open the first Saturday of most months from 1-4pm.

St. Mark's Lighthouse

Continuing west on the tour route we drove through Carrabelle to the Crooked River Lighthouse. Open to visitors Saturdays and Sundays 1-4pm, we missed our chance to climb. However the 103ft iron and steel construction is not your typical lighthouse, and we were glad we didn’t skip turning into the public park. For 120 years the lighthouse was a guiding light over the pass between Dog and St. George Islands, decommissioned only in 1995 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A bicycle path and picnic area are also located in the park, along with a replica Keeper’s House which serves as a museum and gift shop on the weekends.

Crooked River Lighthouse

Three beacons on Dog Island were destroyed over the years, as well as three on St.George Island. The Cape St. George Light is the fourth reconstruction, located at the very center of the Island just as visitors arrive over the Bryant Patton Bridge. The first lighthouse was built near West Pass but was dismantled after being damaged by storms, and reconstructed a year later in 1848. That one fell during a hurricane in 1851, and was replaced by a third lighthouse a year later and further inland. This lighthouse served for 153 years, but ultimately succumbed to erosion, collapsing in October of 2005. Volunteers salvaged over 22,000 original bricks, and in 2008 the Cape St. George Light was successfully rebuilt and opened to the public. A replica of the Keeper’s House functions as a museum and gift shop; the lighthouse is open daily except Thursdays, hours vary by season.

Cape St. George Light

The final lighthouse on the Forgotten Coast tour is the Cape San Blas Lighthouse. I vacationed on Cape San Blas over 13 years ago and had visited the lighthouse then; I warned Mikus that we would not be able to visit this one, as the drive out to Cape San Blas involves a trip all the way out on St. Joseph’s peninsula. Wasn’t I surprised to see the lighthouse just a block off of our route while passing through Port St. Joe on the mainland! It turns out that the 130 year old structure was originally built at the tip of the cape to replace multiple destroyed brick lighthouses, and was only moved to Port St. Joe in 2014. I urge you to visit this website for the full history of Lights on Cape San Blas; it seems that the Cape is cursed when it comes to lighthouses, as even the ship that was carrying the new lighthouse sank on its way to the Cape and the material had to be salvaged from the water (not to mention the Civil War attack the Light suffered in 1862!). Mikus and I happily paid a small fee in the historic Maddox House Welcome Center before climbing the 138 steps for a grandiose view of St. Joseph Bay. In the meantime the rest of the boys paid a visit to the small beach, and before long we joined them for a final hurrah on the sands of the Forgotten Coast before heading on to Panama City.

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

This wasn’t the end of our panhandle lighthouse experience, as we would continue our adventures on the Emerald Coast, including a climb up the Pensacola Lighthouse. However it was a fitting end to our time on the Forgotten Coast and as we continued west we took one last look at the Cape San Blas Light, now just a tiny mark on the horizon.

A few points on logistics when visiting the lighthouses:

The tour brochure estimates that if combining a visit to all four the trip would take 6 hours, allowing 1 hour at each lighthouse.

Remember there are height requirements to climb the lighthouses, please check the individual websites for regulations, hours and fee information.

St. Marks Lighthouse: www.stmarkslighthouse.net

Crooked River Lighthouse: www.crookedriverlighthouse.org

Cape St. George Light: www.stgeorgelight.org

Cape San Blas Lighthouse: www.capesanblaslight.org

In the footprints of Hernando De Soto

We might have been in the Tampa area to catch up with some old friends and get in some time on the beach, but the temptation to explore led us to another site steeped in history – De Soto National Memorial.

There were others that came before Columbus, and there would be others after, Europeans marching across North American to explore and colonize the ‘New World.’ Hernando De Soto was a Spanish soldier, granted the license to explore La Florida by Charles V of Spain. He arrived in Havana in 1538, sailed to Florida in 1539 with 622 soldiers, and landed near Tampa Bay to spend the next three years trekking across the Southeast. Leaving disease and devastation in their wake, De Soto’s expedition sought gold and riches… What they found instead were hundreds of villages, but the consequences for their inhabitants were disastrous. Ironically it is the information about the Native Americans who lived here before us that is valuable to historians today, although the expedition was trailed by tragedy, the resulting social dislocation destroying the rich culture and traditions they were observing and recording.

De Soto burned his way north through Florida, then crossed into Georgia up to Ocmulgee. Upon reaching Cofitachequi in SC many of De Soto’s men were ready to settle. However, they were pushed on in search of gold and glory, and after cutting across to Coosa, TN they turned south, threading through Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas. Three years after landing in Florida, Hernando De Soto died of sickness and was buried in the Mississippi River. The remainder of his expedition stumbled back to Mexico, arriving at Pánuco River in 1543.

A good place to start your explorations of the National Monument is at the Visitor Center. We found the 20 minute film a little on the tragic side for young children, but the exhibits and artifacts on display offer insight into the expedition, Florida in the 1500s, the Natives who lived there, and the consequences of the excursion.

We opted to hike the 2 mile Memorial Trail, passing through a mangrove swamp out to the Manatee River. The first point of interest is the ruin of a tabby house. Built from a mixture of lime, sand and shell mined from the local prehistoric shell middens that once lined the shoreline, the structure is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Once attributed to the 1843 homestead of shipping merchant William H. Shaw, recent archeological surveys suggest that the site may be related to the freed black community of Angola, and date back as far as 1812.

From De Soto Point we headed south along the coast, eventually reaching the Holy Eucharist Monument and the Memorial Cross. Both were impressive, but the boys were by far more impressed with the beach.

The trail eventually emerges to the road, and we followed it back north to the parking area and Visitor Center. A highlight in this central area is the Replica Spanish Camp, complete with reproductions of Spanish armor and weapons. Modeled after an Indian village that was captured by De Soto to serve as a base camp, the demonstrations on everything from weapons to cooking were fascinating for adults as well as the children.

The large stone monument in the center commemorates the expedition. It was placed by the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America, and today is significant as the mark of the beginning of the De Soto Trail, the historic route of the conquistador’s expedition through the Florida Native American territories in his quest for fame and fortune.

If you are headed to De Soto National Memorial from May through October, be sure to sign up for the free 1.5 hour Ranger led kayak tour. Spots on the tour are first come, first serve, but they do take reservations – call (941) 792-0458 to reserve your seat. Tours run on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings at 9:00am, and include all your equipment (2 person kayaks, paddles and personal floatation devices).  Imagine seeing Florida the way the first Europeans saw it – blue waters ending at beaches lined with thickets of mangroves, gumbo-limbo trees shading the swampy understory.

The National Memorial is an expressive reminder of the tragic history of Americas. However, it also serves as a showcase of the natural beauty of the region; the coastal habitats are home to a wide variety of wildlife, and their range from aquatic to upland forest showcase the area’s diverse animal life. In terms of recreation, “The Cove” is a popular temporary anchorage for small boats, the beaches are well-known for not being too crowded, and the annual schedule of events allows for all types of interests.

I hope you enjoyed my National Park week series! Next week we’ll be back up in the FL panhandle, exploring the coast in an epic trip that took us from Tarzan’s Wakulla Springs State Park all the way to Pensacola… I hope you’ll join us in our adventure!