Rīga with Kids!

Congratulations! You’ve booked your trip to Latvia this summer, scored the hard-to-get tickets to the historic LV100 Dziesmu un Deju Svētki, and survived the 10 hour flight with your kiddos (extra points for each connection!). Now what? Some days are filled with concerts, cultural events and other LV100 opportunities, however you know that the children will need some downtime – a little time to explore and be kids. After being asked a couple of times for favorite spots to go as a family, I’ve put together a list of things to do with children in and around Rīga.

Parks

The easiest way to squeeze in some time outdoors is at one of the nearby parks. Vērmanes dārzs is one of our favorites as it is centrally located, has a playground with plenty of shaded benches around, and offers trampolines/bounce houses/kids car rides (for a small fee). Buy some ice cream or freshly spun cotton candy and explore the gardens, or time your visit to coincide with one of the many festivals and tirdziņi that take place there every summer such as the Dziesmu svētku gadatirgus (July 1-8) or Rīgas svētki 2018 (August 17-19). Catch a concert on one of the stages and relax before heading further to Vecrīga.

Fellow blogger Brigita suggests the Centra sporta kvartāls park on Krišjāņa Barona iela for Rīga-themed and sports-based fun. You can read her post here – Rīga With Kids Tip.

The song festival wall in Viesturdārzs

Kronvalda parks takes you along the canal and past some cool statues and historical sites. If you’re in town for the song festival, you’ll want to visit the oldest park in Rīga, Viesturdārzs; also known as the song festival park, it has a reflecting pool with fountains and portrait wall dedicated to Dziesmu svētki. And adjacent to Brīvības piemineklis is Bastejkalns park, with memorials to those who died in 1991, the foundations of an old castle, a mini bridge with love locks, and scenic views of the canal. 

Activities

See Rīga from above! A neat way to get the lay of the land during the first days of your stay is by visiting one of the many places that offers a scenic view of the city. Svētā Petera baznīca provides one of our favorite views, although if you would like to enjoy the scenery while enjoying a drink in a retro bar, try Skyline Bar. The Radio tower is also an option, although a bit harder to get to from downtown Rīga.

The view from St. Peter's Church

Take a wooden boat tour of the Rīga canal! Combined with a short stretch of the Daugava River, the canal makes a big loop around Vecrīga - allowing for the distinctive opportunity to sightsee a city by boat.

Those who prefer to travel by land will want to walk the streets of Vecrīga. There is no better way to explore the cobblestoned streets and hidden courtyards of the old city than by foot! Sit down at an outdoor alus dārzs for ķiploku grauzdiņi for the kids, cross through the historic city gates, shop for everything from amber jewelry to folk music to children's literature, spot the cats adorning the infamous Kaķu nams, and admire the elegant beauty of the many churches while soaking in the history of the city that was born in 1201!

Spotted one of the cats!

Head to one of the many markets! Centrāltirgus is the biggest, and you can spend hours wandering through the giant zeppelin hangars. Buy some berries picked that morning while shopping for dinner, or just pick up a couple of souvenirs and ogle/smell the fish stalls.

Don't forget to eat! The LIDO chain is popular with many children and parents, simply because it lets them see the food they are ordering - which can be a relief for parents of fussy eaters or just those unfamiliar with Latvian cuisine. The LIDO Recreation Centre offers not just a meal, but a dining experience complete with live music and family recreation.

Educational opportunities

You’ll want to visit the magnificent National Library while you’re in Rīga, Gaismas pils. Older children might enjoy going on the free tour, while younger kids will love to spend some time in the children’s library. Make sure to take them to see the dainu skapis on the 5th floor that once stored the folk song collection of Krišjānis Barons.

Exploring the Art Nouveu District on a self-guided tour or with an official tour service might be a good choice for a group of varied ages. The younger children can have fun spotting all the animals & mythical creatures contained within the building facades, while older kids and adults can delve into the distinctive architectural unlike any in the world. 

Laima Chocolate Museum is a must for the chocolate lover.

The Rīga Zoo is just a tram ride away. It’s located adjacent to Mežaparks where you’ll find all sorts of other family-friendly activities such as a paintball center and a mini golf course.

Botāniskā dārzā

The Botanical Gardens of the University of Latvia can be a little harder to reach if you’re utilizing public transportation, but are worth the effort. Boasting an arboretum, palm house and butterfly house, the 40-acre gardens also have a rabbit enclosure that will delight smaller children. 

For a deeper look into the painful history of the Baltics, older children would benefit from a visit to the Okupācijas muzējs. Note, this museum is more appropriate for young adults than young children, and delves into very serious subject matter. However for those of us who grew up outside of Latvia, it offers insight into the tragic years that shaped our tēvuzeme. 

There are dozens of museums in Rīga, it’s just a matter of finding one to suit your interests. See if this post by Family With Kids helps: Things to Do and See with Kids in Riga, a Family Vacation in Latvia

  

LV100/Dziesmusvētki

In addition to all the ticketed events there will be many free, open to the public concerts and other events taking place across the city. One of our favorites is the Dziesmu svētku gājiens, where every song and dance festival participant parades down Brīvības ielas on the final day of the festival. 

Check out the Live Rīga website for events taking place across the city in honor of LV100 and the song festival.

Day Trips

Cross Lielupe to reach Jūrmala, 20 miles of beach on the Baltic Sea. Each municipality has its own distinct vibe, so with a little research you’ll quickly find the area that best suits your needs. Or, if you don’t want to go all the way to Jūrmala, stop at Līvu akvaparks for waterpark fun.

If you’re looking to head to the beach but want something a little quieter than Jūrmala, try heading east, to Saulkrasti. Need a little extra convincing? Take a look at these photos...

Ķemeru nacionālais parks is the closest National Park to the capital, and has miles of trails and boarwalks that explore the unique ecosystems within.

The bogs of Ķemeri National Park

And about an hour east of Rīga (by car) you’ll find Sigulda (and neighboring Krimulda), with Gūtmaņala and the ancient castle of Turaida, all popular tourist destinations.

I hope you enjoy your time in Rīga, and urge you to make the absolute most of your time there! Dziesmu svētki in Latvia are a unique chance to see the country all dressed up for the festivities, and to sample the many cultural, natural, historical and culinary experiences it has to offer. I would love to hear what your favorite places were to visit as a family, and please let me know what I’ve missed. Safe travels!!!

Saulkrasti - a photo essay

The path to the beach leads through a sandy pine forest

A bridge across Pēterupe...

...and you're on the beach.

I spy a windsurfer riding the waves

Plenty of time in the surf and the sun.

The sun starts sinking in the sky...

...but the boys aren't ready to leave just yet!

Goodnight, Saulkrasti.

Goodnight, moon.

To read about the beach resort town of Saulkrasti, please visit my post from our visit two years ago… 

Where Lielupe flows into the Baltic Sea

The designation of “Jūrmala” applies to the beach resort towns that stretch 20 miles along the Baltic Sea from Lielupe River to Ķemeri National Park to the west. Only 16 miles west of Rīga, it is a popular summer destination for the city-dwellers and contains many summer homes for those escaping the city heat. Jūrmala is famous for beautiful old Art Nouveau houses, and beaches of fine, white sand with rather safe swimming conditions.

For more on this fantastic day trip destination, please see my post Tu esi mana Jūrmala. I have also previously written about the Ķemeri National Park (here) and the fishing village of Ragaciems just northeast of Jūrmala (here).

The eastern border of Jūrmala is Lielupe, the 74-mile long river that begins at the confluence of the Mēmele and Mūsa rivers near Bauska. Lielupe translates literally to “big river,” the name referring to its wide and deep channel that courses from Mežotne over the flood plains of Zemgale. Having passed between Babītes ezers and Ķemeri National Park the river turns east, paralleling the Gulf of Rīga for the length of Jūrmala. Eventually it turns back north and flows into the Baltic Sea, while another channel continues east to empty into the Daugava; this stretch of river is known as the Buļļupe branch, and was the Lielupe’s main channel until 1755 when the river took a shortcut on one of its meanders.

This eastern-most portion of Jūrmala is also known as Lielupe. It is home to Līvu akvaparks, the easily recognizable water park visible from the main drag, as well as multiple tourist attractions: Jūrmalas brīvdabas muzejs and Bulduri Nature Park among others. A swath of wooded dunes runs through the middle of the peninsula, another forested stretch buffering the beach as along most of Jūrmala. This sandy forest floor is covered with blueberry bushes, which makes getting anywhere in a timely manner difficult (not to mention the suddenly appearing blueberry-stained hands and mouths!).

The pine and birch forest is quiet save for the chatter of birds and the wind in the canopy, until you climb the last dune and the sound of the waves greets you on your arrival at the Gulf of Rīga. 

The white sand and the countless shades of blue; the heat of the sun and the refreshing salty sea; beach and forest and sky stretching as far as the eye can see…

Between swimming, strolling and sandcastle building on the water, gorging on blueberries in the forest, and boat-watching on the river, time in Lielupe passes quickly. If it’s an option, stay to watch the sunset from the beach before heading back to the train station/Rīgas šosejs. But if you don’t get the chance then be content to realize that you’ll just have to come back again – and this time hopefully you’ll stay longer. 

The fishing village of Ragaciems

You might have noticed that over the last months my blog posts have been jumping here, there, everywhere. Our trip to Latvia this summer yielded so many topics that I wanted to write about, that a rather long line of posts lined up concerning the end of summer/fall back here in the US, of which a few managed to interrupt the queue before present day posts cut in line and mixed up everything. The reality is that I’ve left the story of our adventures in Latvia unfinished (at least in my eyes), and with December and the beginning of 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas rapidly approaching the nonsensical order is guaranteed to continue at least until the end of the month.

When I last left off in Latvia we had just emerged from a hike in the bogs of Ķemeri National Park, an amazing ecosystem of incredible biodiversity and beauty. From there we headed north through the park past Lake Kaņieris, to the coast of the Baltic Sea. The coastal sand dunes stretch along most of the shore, continuously changing due to the effects of the wind and waves. To reach the sea we parked on Highway P128, and after a short walk through the inland dunes (which are more stable and covered by pine forests) we emerged to blinding blue skies. Despite the warm temperatures and sunshine the seashore was almost empty – the majority of beachgoers having stopped short at the Jūrmala strand.

Our destination was actually not the sea, but Ragaciems, and so we continued east towards Jūrmala. Primarily a fishing village, it is also known for being the birthplace of poet Imants Ziedonis. Separated from neighboring Lapmežciems by Starpiņupīte, the canal built in 1667 to connect Lake Kaņieris to the sea, the village is named for the ‘horn’ (rags), or the isthmus of land that extends into the Gulf of Rīga.

Legend has it that centuries ago locals would burn fires on the large dune nearby called Kuģu kalns, or Ship mountain, in imitation of the lights of a port. Local ships would be lured toward land, and once they had grounded the thieves would board, stealing their cargo.

Nowadays, the fishing village caters mostly to tourists and travelers, the fish market well known for fresh seafood and smoked fish. We were soon on the road back to Jūrmala, freshly picked berries, smoked fish and local beer in hand.

After a feast of epic proportions we walked out to the beach one last time. As the sun set over the Baltic Sea the kids chased one another on the shallow sandbars and played in the sand, the water near shore warmed from the summer sun. We said goodbye twice that evening: once to the friends who had so graciously hosted us on a memorable summer's day, and once to the soft sands of the Baltic Sea coast – it might be some time before we see either again.

The bogs of Kemeri National Park

Ķemeri National Park contains one of the largest moss bogs along the Latvian coast. Located only 30 miles from the capital city Rīga and not far from the popular beach resort area Jūrmala, this biologically diverse area provides an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the bog ecosystem. The Great Ķemeri Bog (Lielais Ķemeru tīrelis in Latvian) covers an area of over 12,000 of the National Park’s 94,000 acres and dates back about 8,000 years. The bogs are an integral part of the ecosystem, soaking up significant amounts of precipitation and preventing flooding, but also acting as water cleaning systems.

The Park still shows the scars of WWI in the form of trenches in the bogs & marshes and cemeteries in Smārde and Kalnciems. WWII saw tanks sunk in the bog, the peat layer 15-50 feet deep. The Ķemeri National Park was established in 1997 to protect these historically and culturally important areas, but also the famous natural mineral springs used for centuries because of their reputed therapeutic benefits. The springs led to development of many resorts, spas, and sanitariums in the vicinity in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Today the newly reconstructed Ķemeri sanatorium bears testimony to the belief in the healing properties of the sulphur springs.

Forests occupy 57% of the total area of the park, and bogs another quarter. All three wetland types – fens, transition and raised bogs – are found in Ķemeri, making it an internationally important wetland. Rich in flora and fauna, the Ķemeri National Park boasts 897 species of plants, 202 mosses, 139 lichens and 521 species of mushrooms, the mosses and orchids especially prominent in the wetlands. The rare black stork and corncrake nest in the bogs, and sea eagles, eagle-owls and cranes are often spotted throughout. The Park’s streams contain a wide variety of rare native snails, mussels, fishers, storks and otters, and in the forests you’ll find beaver, lynx, elk, red deer, wild boars and wolves, the isolated habitat ideal for large mammals. 47 species of mammals including wild horses call the Park their home, and more than 250 bird species (67 of them listed as protected - such as the rare white-backed woodpecker) have been observed in the area.

The lowlands of the region are separated from the Baltic Sea by several rows of dunes which mark the shores of the ancient Littorina Sea. When the sea receded lagoon lakes were formed; the 100-foot deep Lake Valgums on the north end of the Park contains the history of the ice age in its depths. A combination of factors including these geologic beginnings were the foundation of the formation of the Great Ķemeri bog, one of the largest mossy bogs in Latvia. The most popular attraction in Ķemeri National Park is the Great Ķemeri bog trail (Lielā Ķemeru tīreļa laipa in Latvian), which lets visitors explore without harming the fragile bog ecosystem.

The trail consists of over 2 miles of boardwalks, a giant loop with a shortcut halfway resembling a giant figure 8 (can be seen in the aerial photo below in the upper left corner). Bear in mind that the shorter 1-mile loop does not include the watchtower, a highlight of the hike. The bog is characterized by a series of elongated lakes visible on portions of the hike, but the scenery is mesmerizing and suprisingly diverse along the entire length.

Aerial view from Google Earth

From the parking area it is a good ½ mile to the beginning of the trail down a sandy, forested road. Wild blueberries and raspberries grow sporadically along the ditches, blanketing the forest floor once you reach the trailhead. Only a short distance further we emerged from the trees into the bog and began our adventure into the stark milieu.

The first constructed trail to venture out into the bog was a Soviet era footbridge used to access the swamp meteorological station whose operations ceased in 1990. In 2000 the base of that walkway was utilized to build boardwalks, but they quickly deteriorated and by 2008 were unusable. Funds to restore the trail were granted by the European Union in 2013 and on our visit it was in impeccable condition. In some places the remnants of the old piers could still be seen.

Our midday visit yielded little in the terms of wildlife sightings, but was rich in plant life; a favorite was the carnivorous plant which was small but prolific along the boardwalks. According to the government webpage 86 of the more than 900 plant species in the park are protected.

Drosera rotundifolia, the carnivorous apaļlapu rasene or common sundew

Andromeda polifolia, bog rosemary or polijlapu andromeda

A morning or evening visit might allow for more waterfowl sightings, but we enjoyed our visit nonetheless, especially with the opportunity to get a different perspective of the bog – one from above. About halfway through the hike is an observation deck, a perfect spot for seeing the unique pattern the elongated lakes make over the landscape. The boardwalk creates an interesting contrast to the subtle hues of the bog, and even in the middle of summer the array of colors was stunning.

With its raised bogs, black alder forests, floodplain meadows and seaside lakes, Ķemeri National Park is a treasure, one every visitor to the region should go to. The views are glorious, the diversity easily observable, the beauty subtle yet memorable. All too soon we saw the forest looming ahead of us on the boardwalk, signaling the end of our hike through the bog and the end of our visit approaching, and although those with shorter legs might have been a tad relieved, the melancholy landscape had struck a chord within me. A sincere note of gratitude to our friends AKKM for introducing us to this enchanting locale!

PS I've truly never seen anything quite like these bogs up close and personal, except maybe the Hautes Fagnes of Belgium. You can read the post about that experience here.

On the shores of the Baltic - the sandstone cliffs of Vidzeme

As I mentioned in my previous post, the section of Baltic Sea coast between Tūja and Vitrupe is known for a rocky seashore, with unusual boulder clusters, rocky headlands, cliffs, bluffs, small grottos, pillars and other natural formations. As fun and scenic as the Lauču rocks were, I was unprepared for the fascinating shoreline just 10 miles north. We cruised up the A1 (the Rīga/Talinn freeway) until Lapsiņas, where we turned west towards Rankuļrags and Mantiņi. Once again our destination was well-posted, and about 4 miles later we arrived at the Veczemju klintis (translates to “Oldworld Cliffs”).

Similar to Lauči, the area has been groomed into a camping/recreation site. As it is private property you do have to pay to park, but with the attendant on duty we felt safe leaving the car there for an extended period of time. A restaurant, snack & coffee shop and other facilities are available, and picnic tables are located throughout. Visitors can descend stairs to the beach, or continue along the road to reach the boardwalk that accesses the cliffs. The boys opted to walk the beach while I continued down the forest road, inhaling the scent of the rich deciduous and pine-spruce forest that is so typical of the Baltic seacoast.

The Veczemju klintis are the most impressive and imposing sandstone cliffs of the Vidzeme rocky seaside and part of the “Vidzeme stony beach” nature reserve, which comprises a 7.5 mile-long stretch of shore. The 20 foot-tall, magnificent red sandstone formations stretch two tenths of a mile, with caves, arches, and patterns of all colors. This is the only place in Latvia where 350-380 million year old sandstone outcrops can be seen, and the visible evidence of the last glacial period dates back 10-13 thousand years. Despite the centuries-old reputation of these cliffs, the appearance of this section of shore supposedly changes noticeably with each storm, the relentless waves carving out new sculptures in the soft sandstone for a unique landscape every year.

I could have spent days photographing the colors and patterns, watching the cliffs change hues over the course of the day as the sun passed overhead. We searched for driftwood and pieces of sea glass among the pebbles, giving the boys freedom to explore and play. When the sun got to be too much we retreated into the shade of the cliffs, the cool, salty breeze eventually urging us back into the sun.

When it came time to leave, instead of turning the car back around the way we came we decided to continue north – a fortuitous choice. For Americans, it was the difference between choosing Highway 1 over Interstate 101 when driving up the Pacific coast... What we lost in time driving on an unimproved, narrow and curvy road, we more than made up for with sheer beauty of our surroundings. With frequent glimpses of the ocean, the cliffs and the beach (so tempting to forget the evening’s plans and return to the water!), we wound our way through pine forest and meadow before intersecting the A1 near Meleki and the Lielurga river. And then we were once again traveling at a good clip, eyes peeled for a place to eat dinner as we approached Salacgrīva…

Lauču akmeņi - a couple of big rocks

It was on a day trip from Saulkrasti that we found ourselves bouncing down a gravel road somewhere between Zvejniekciems (‘fisherman’s village’) and Dunte, where the infamous Minhauzena museum is located. We were following signs for the Lauču akmeņi, the rocks of Lauči, wondering if were chasing a legend as elusive as the truth was for Minhauzens, and if it was going to be worth the trip.

Turns out finding the large stones wasn’t going to be a problem, as signs guided us straight to the parking area for the Lauču akmens restaurant/camping/recreation area. As luck would have it we arrived while parking was still free, and soon we were descending the stairs leading down to the beach. And there it was – the Lauču akmens.

There are actually two rocks, Lielais and Mazais (big and small), both of which appeared on the Baltic seashore in the spring of 1853 along with a multitude of ice. Lielais is in the books at over 10 feet tall with a circumference of about 40 feet, while Mazais is a little over 6 feet tall and 31 feet around. Worth flying out to Latvia to see tomorrow? Not quite, but definitely worth the side trip from the Rīga-Talinn highway; although these rocks might not be the size of Stone Mountain or Bald Rock, the Lauču beach is a gorgeous yet unique aspect on the shores of the Baltic.

Not Mazais Lauču akmens... but just as fun to climb

The section of coast between Tūja and Vitrupe is known for the rocky seashore, with unusual boulder clusters, rocky headlands, cliffs, bluffs, small grottos, pillars and other natural formations. However even south of Tūja where the Lauču rocks are located the shoreline is interesting, with the large rocks and steep wooded shores preceeding the beach. The boys found a tidepool of sorts, and were soon busy stacking rocks, digging channels and exploring the rock-strewn strand.

The restaurant's playground, restaurant decor and wildlife we spotted on the drive in

We weren’t the only ones on the beach on a sunny summer’s day, although we might possibly have been the only ones there to see the rocks... As morning turned into afternoon we grabbed lunch at the restaurant (if we did it again I would skip the meal rather than dining there again), checked out Mazais Lauču akmens (not as impressive as Lielais) and finally bid adieu to the the oversize stones before continuing our trip north – to the Veczemju cliffs.