#Mija2016

While we were living in France, it felt like we missed so many big days: birthdays, graduations, christenings, confirmations, weddings… Although we tried our hardest to stay in touch with our friends and family, it was hard to watch the distances seemingly grow, and moving back to Greenville didn’t entirely bridge the gap – we are still far from the cities we grew up in. But then celebrations occur that bring us back into the fold of friends and family, and it’s as if we never left – we’re thankful for these moments and grateful that we can be there.

It was the wedding of a couple of friends that brought us to Toronto, but we seized the opportunity to stretch out our visit over four days to also spend time with family. On both sides, actually, as my mother’s sister lives there, but Roberts’s brother and wife were in town from Latvia for the festivities. Not only were we able to spend some time with my godparents and let the boys get to know everyone better, but we also had the opportunity to play tourist in a town I’ve often visited but rarely seen.

The wedding was beautiful. We left the boys with my godmother and ‘Toronto Juris,’ and headed to the east side of the city to Fantasy Farm, a hidden retreat just off Don Valley Parkway. Although a drizzle kept the ceremony short, it wasn’t just rain I was wiping from my eyes as they exchanged vows…

A true celebration followed, the occasion pulling together friends from all corners of the globe. We were by no means the guests who had traveled the furthest, as in addition to the before-mentioned brother & sister-in-law from Rīga, we were seated at a table with our friends living in Doha, Qatar. As well as traveling long distances to be with the bride and groom, surprisingly many had made the journey with new families. In addition to a couple of babies not even a month old, it also seemed that every other woman at the wedding was pregnant – like 8 months pregnant!

The blogging-press was out in full force; in addition to yours truly and an expat blogger, the Latvian financial sector was represented, as was a Canadian lifestyle & garden blog. All kidding aside, it was a great time catching up with old friends, putting some faces to names, and making new acquaintances.

It was long after the tortes had been brought out and the food truck left that we reluctantly tore ourselves away; the kids might be sleeping now (thanks A&J!), but we knew very well what the next morning would bring. Of course, we still had a couple of parties to attend in addition to a day of sightseeing ahead of us, so we would be seeing many of our friends again over the next couple of days.

Mija, I wish you both the best. Thank you for sharing your special day with us!

Vilis flies to Canada

As if traveling to Latvia this summer wasn’t enough international travel, I managed to sneak in not just one, but two trips to Canada a few months back. My godparents both live in Toronto, so it wasn’t the first time I crossed our northern border; when I was in elementary school I made the trip solo on more than one summer vacation. However we haven’t been recently, and when we were invited to a second cousin’s wedding I thought someone should represent… With the school year underway it turned out that only Vilis and I made the trip – his first time in Canada!

It wasn’t all as easy as I had imagined. We flew the first leg with not a problem, only to wait in a customer service line 30 minutes to be told that Vilis needs his own ticket despite flying in my lap. We had paid the taxes on his flight in Greenville, so when it was explained that a paper ticket is usually mailed to the billing address, I grew impatient with the situation, as the connecting flight was due to leave in 30 minutes. After 20 more minutes the attendant finally “found” where the ticket was, and left to go get it. Another 20 minutes, and she arrived to hand me the ticket, at which point I ran through the concourse only to find that all flights were grounded due to lightning – quite fortunate for me, as otherwise I would have missed the connection! Arriving in Toronto 2 hours late we ran into our second hiccup; border patrol asked me if I was married, and when I replied in the affirmative I was asked if I had a signed letter stating the other parent is aware I am crossing international borders with our son. I explained that Roberts was home with the other two boys, and that I was headed to a wedding, and when asked if I had any proof I provided the invitation. At that point it was smoother sailing, as the officer smiled at the invite saying “this is the most beautiful wedding invitation!” and waved us through. (Thanks M&M, for the awesome invite!) 

One of a few churches that had been renovated into loft apartments

In addition to some sightseeing in the Junction area of Toronto, we got to spend time with my cousins, godparents and Toronto Juris – a treat when we’ve seen so little of them in the past years. Coincidentally, my godfather was just in Greenville for a visit, however twice in two months is a rarity – I’m lucky to see them all twice in two years, especially the cousins who are traveling the world, doing their thing.

Saturday we headed to Sidrabene for the wedding, a Latvian property north of Toronto. The camp is owned and operated by St. Andrew's Latvian Evangelical Lutheran Church of Toronto, and although originally intended only as a summer camp and a meeting place for Latvians displaced by WWII, in the last sixty years it has taken on many other roles. Within the property lines there are 60 cabins, a main event hall, a café and a swimming area with salt water pool and splash pad. The outdoor chapel hosts weddings, christenings and confirmations in addition to twice weekly worship services during the summer. Just as Roberts and I have Gaŗezers, many of our Canadian friends grew up in Sidrabene, spending their summers and weekends surrounded by nature and Latvian culture. Many a Latvian couple has met at one of the Latvian camps scattered across the US and Canada; fate would have it that Māris and Meghan found one another in Sidrabene.

Despite the slightly uncooperative weather, the day was amazing. If anything, the drizzle kept everyone from spreading out over the vast acreage, fostering a feeling of togetherness in the cozy hall. The couple had put so much thought into making each and every guest feel welcome and comfortable, and the decorations! Starting with the birch branches used as indoor accents, to the slate coasters the couple had customized for each guest to take home with them; the natural theme they had chosen was elegant in its simplicity and really showed off their creativity and dedication. It was such an honor to be invited to share in this special day with Māris, Meghan and Ādams – you have a beautiful family and it was a beautiful day!

Vilis and I had a great time with family and friends, if only for the weekend and despite the difficulties in flying solo with a baby. I was relieved when he slept a majority of the way home, even more relieved when the mechanical problems on our second flight were resolved and we were allowed to take off for Greenville! And so it came about that not even a month later I was on my way to Canada once more, although this time sans husband and children – for the first time in over five years. (to be continued...)

Saulkrasti, another of Latvia's beautiful beaches

A Latvian wedding lasts three days, and it was on the third that we found ourselves in the quaint little seaside town of Saulkrasti. The English translation is ‘sun shores,’ and with white sandy beaches that echo the colors of the sunset each evening the name is quite appropriate. Saulkrasti encompasses 10 miles of shoreline on the Gulf of Rīga and a total of almost 20 square miles of beaches, fields and forest.

Four rivers enter the Baltic Sea in Saulkrasti: Inčupe, Pēterupe, Ķīšupe and the Aģe. They along with the five villages that make up the district – Bādciems, Katrīnbāde (Pabaži), Pēterupe, Neibāde and Zvejniekciems are represented in the coat of arms, which features four white stripes, five green stripes and the sun & sea. The villages were merged into one municipal district and named Saulkrasti in 1933, and in 1991 it officially became a town.

The shores west of Rīga have long been popular as a beach resort destination, but the eastern seaboard has historically been on the quiet side. Convenient rail transportation makes Jūrmala an easy day trip from Rīga, whereas in contrast Saulkrasti was a long (and often crowded) bus ride away – that is until the A1 Motorway between Rīga and Tallinn was built. In 2007 a bypass was completed, moving the through traffic further inland out of the center of the town, and these days Saulkrasti is an easy car ride from the capital resulting in more than a few summer houses for city dwellers. The town is now home to the annual Saulkrasti Jazz Festival in late July, which features concerts with celebrities such as American David Becker, and an educational camp for young musicians.

During our stay we had use of a tiny house, perfect for a few nights relaxation while we celebrated the wedding, enjoyed the beach, and made a couple of day trips to places nearby. The cottage street connected to the water via a boardwalk, protecting the dune ecosystem that make Latvia’s beaches so appealing and giving the public beaches an exclusive feel. Swimming in the Gulf was a cold endeavor, although on the sunny summer days warming up was quick and easy. The boys instead spent a majority of their time on the beach playing in the sand, building elaborate rivers and moats with ocean-side fortifications.

The natural beauty, convenience in ease of access and fantastic beaches of Saulkrasti make the area another must-visit destination during a trip to Latvia. Additionally it can serve as a suitable home-base for excursions to northern Latvia as it cuts an hour or two off trips to destinations such as Sigulda, Cēsis, Valmiera and Salacgrīva. If you’re not completely committed I urge you to take a daytrip; all it will take is one sunset across the Baltijas jūras līcis and you will be convinced.

Svētā Sīmaņa baznīca, one of the oldest churches in Latvia

On the shores of the Gauja in central Vidzeme is the city of Valmiera. From archeological evidence we know the site has been inhabited for the last 9,000 years, but it was first chronicled as a town in 1323 after the master of the Livonian Order Wilken von Endorp constructed the Wolmar castle and a Catholic church on the river banks. A member of the Hanseatic League in the 14th- 16th centuries, the city has long been an important crossroads due to the central location and proximity to Rīga and Estonia, as well as the significant trade and travel possibilities on the river.

In the very center of the city is the aforementioned church, St. Simon’s (Svētā Sīmaņa). First constructed in the 13^th century, it is one of the oldest churches in Latvia. The early history of the church differs slightly from source to source as to the exact year construction started and to its original style and size. However it is known and documented that the church has seen various reincarnations; not only has it served as a Catholic and Lutheran church, but it has been rebuilt and remodeled more than a dozen times after war and disaster. In the 1500s and 1600s alone it was destroyed four times. A report from 1613 reads ēka ir bez jumta, samirkušās velves draud sarukt, logi bez rūtīm (“the building is without a roof, the drenched vaults are close to collapse, the windows are without panes…”). Each time restored and rebuilt, it was in 1644 that the bell tower received its rooster and in the mid-17^th century that the church was fully renovated and improved. This was just in time for a spire fire in 1698 and the Russian invasion not long after at which point the church burned down. In the following years the structure saw multiple fires (including two lightning strikes after which a lightning rod was finally installed), and various other improvements and renovations.

After World War II under Soviet occupation the church was converted into a museum and concert hall (various renovations partially responsible for the excellent acoustics today), but it was only in 1988 that the congregation recovered the church and was able to resume worship services. In 2005 Saint Simon’s Church received National Heritage status.

Other notable features of the church include tombstones from the 15^th and 16th centuries in the basement, and an organ built in 1886 by German master craftsman Friedrich Ladegast. The latest renovations were to the spire and tower, and the globe and rooster will be returned to its rightful place sometime this August. During the restoration of the spire a time capsule was discovered, which had been concealed in the 1970s. You can read more about the capsule and its contents in the article “Atver Valmieras Sv.Sīmaņa baznīcas tornī atrasto vēsturisko kapsulu.”

The church grounds are just as historic and noteworthy as the church itself. Due to the elevated location on the river shore the spot was an important defense position. The ruins of the ancient Valmiera castle are located just to the east, and the modern day city hall is to the north. Various walkways connect to the Gaujas tramvaļš stop on the river, Dzirnavu Lake and Luces Park, and museums, cafes, museums and theaters attest to the area's importance as a tourist and cultural center.

It was an honor to attend Matīss and Līga’s wedding in such a remarkable church. We witnessed the exchange of vows during a beautiful service, the church pews were filled to the last with family and friends who had traveled long distances to be with the couple on this momentous occasion. The wedding celebrations were far from over however – soon we were off to historic Dikļi Manor.

Dikļi Manor, a century old palace

After the wedding in Valmiera we headed west into the heart of Vidzeme, to the Dikļi Manor. Baron Paul von Wolf built the impressive neo-baroque style manor house in 1896. An interesting feature is the mansard roof; also called a French roof or curb roof, the four-sided gambrel-style hip roof has two separate slopes on each of its sides, with the lower slope being punctuated by dormer windows and at a steeper angle than the upper. This creates an additional floor of habitable space and allows for a lower profile.

In 1919 the mansion was given to the Valmiera district government at which point it was converted into an orphanage. In later years it also served as sanatorium, but in 2003 was reborn as a hotel after an extensive restoration. Attention to detail ensured the old wooden trim and ornate fireplaces (check out Stephanie's album!) were returned to the previous palatial state, and with elaborate staircases and an impressive collection of art from Latvian painters the chateau is truly a historical treasure.

However entrancing the manor’s interior was, I most enjoyed the grounds. Home to around twenty exotic trees including American balsam fir and Douglas fir, there are also several ‘grand trees’ on the property, ancient things that have made it into the record books because of their girth or age. White storks could be seen searching for frogs in the meadow, and the sound of the wind and birds provided background music between band sets.

50 acres of carefully groomed gardens, walking paths and ponds provide more than enough space for a long stroll after dinner or exploration between events. The boys found hours of amusement in the several playgrounds and giant swing, and for those couples seeking a romantic moment of solitude, a rowboat can be used to venture out on the pond.

The wedding reception was held in a tent on the main lawn of the manor house grounds, just adjacent to the hall where the rehearsal dinner took place. Music and laughter could be heard even into the early morning as wedding guests celebrated the union between Līga and Matīss.

Our room was on the second floor, up the grand staircase and down a hallway lined with portraits and antique furniture. The couple’s extended family was squeezed into the 26 rooms and three suites in the Manor house, with overflow of close friends staying in the 13 renovated barn house rooms. Guests enjoyed appointments at the spa, gourmet meals at the restaurant, and nearby Valmiermuižas brewery tour and beer tasting.

Breakfast was served in the sun room, with guests lingering into the early afternoon catching up over cups of coffee and a delicious spread. Listening to the clinking of silverware and the muted voices in the ballroom it was easy to be transported back a century, imagining grandly dressed couples attending a formal dinner within the majestic hall.

It was long after Cinderella had already hurried from the palace that we packed and continued on the three day wedding journey – to the atkāzas taking place on the shore of the Baltic Sea in picturesque village Saulkrasti.

Five years

Five years, 2.7 kids later…

Priecīgu kāzu jubileju mon amour!

“Love is a shiny car

Love is a steel guitar

Love is a battle scar

Love is the morning star

Love is a twelve-bar blues

Love is your blue suede shoes

Love is a heart abused

Love is a mind confused

Love is the pleasures untold

And for some love is still a band of gold

My love has no reason has no rhyme

My love crossed the double line

Love is a minor chord

Love is a mental ward

Love is a drawn sword

Love is its own reward

Love is the pleasures untold

And for some, love is still a band of gold

My love has no reason has no rhyme

My love crossed the double line”

Love is (Renato Russo)

A wedding in little Latvia

A quick jump from Latvia 8,000 miles west, to mazā Latvija or “little Latvia”…

 

Three Rivers is home to the Latvian Center Gaŗezers, one of the focal gathering points of Latvians in North America. In addition to various summer camp programs for children ages 3 to 15, there are also a six week summer high school program, a sports camp, endless concerts, art exhibits, theatre productions and other events. Home to an art museum, a Latvian etnographic museum and a Latvian scouting museum, Gaŗezers also has summer cabins for rent, a beach, docks with boat slips available and a few dozen summer “cottages” that bring Latvians to Long Lake all year round. My summers growing up were spent there, a few winter weekends as well, and Gaŗezers is where I met my husband for the first time and where our wedding reception was held. The pull to visit is even stronger now, as my grandmother has a summer house on the other end of the lake, and it is rare to drop in and not find a full house of siblings/cousins/aunts/grandmothers/other visitors.

 

Our trip north a few weeks ago was to attend the wedding of our good friends Iggīts and Andra, who are neighbors of sorts, as they are currently living in North Carolina (and Latvians in the Carolinas aren’t as numerous as my retelling of our Jāņi experience might make it seem!). The weekend for me brought frequent reminiscing of our wedding weekend, as there were a few parallels. Location of course, also the Carolinas/Gaŗezers experience, even details such as decorations and table setup. However, the couple had truly made the weekend their own, and we enjoyed the laid-back, family-friendly atmosphere along with the delectable food and great company. We wish our newlywed friends all the magic and happiness in their life together – we’re waiting for your visit to Greenville to continue our search for the best fishing holes!

 

The boys and I stayed on in the summer house for a few more days, as a big birthday celebration was coming up that we just couldn’t miss. The boys enjoyed time with their MI grandparents and practically lived in the lake; between fishing, swimming, playing in the sand and hunting for turtles I managed to sneak in a little light reading and a stop or two at Corey Lake Orchard, a wonderful local source of the freshest produce southwest Michigan has to offer. There is a healing property to relaxing summer days without the temptation of computers, TVs and the responsibilities of daily life. The only thing that could have made it better would have been if Roberts hadn’t had to return to Greenville to work, and instead could have taken me out in the canoe for some fishing…

 

We’ll be returning to Gaŗezers this summer to create more childhood memories for the boys, but before then we’ll hop back those 8,000 miles to Latvia, where the stage is set for the Nationwide Latvian Song and Dance Festival!

Washington DC

Lately Laurīts is talking about Obama kungs māja (translates Mr. Obama’s house, he hasn’t gotten the hang of the word President just yet). Luckily, it isn’t because of the extended election coverage on TV, nor is it due to any political discussion in our household.

We don't think Obama kungs was home

 

On our way home from Chicago we detoured to Washington DC, where two good friends got hitched. We attended a very beautiful rehearsal dinner on Friday, complete with half-naked, passed out kids in strollers.

Did you know the Washington Monument is closed for repairs since the August 23, 2011 earthquake?

 

Saturday, while my husband was off with the groom doing who-knows-what-it-is-they-do-before-the-ceremony, and Mikus was busy catching up with his grandmother, Lauris and I joined a group headed for the capitol. The White House, several monuments and reflecting pools later we were already on our way back to start getting ready. I would love to return to DC to do a proper tour of the area.

Maya Ying Lin, then a student of Yale, designed the Vietnam Veterans Memorial

 

Then of course, the atkāzas on Sunday. Because it isn’t a Latvian wedding if it doesn’t go three days.

 

Mīļie Āri un Laura, novēlam lai jūsu dzīvē līdz mūža rudenim nepietrūktu mīlestības, saticības, laimes.

 

 

The Utah wedding

We had hardly been in the US for a month before time came to pack our suitcases again – this time for Chicago, where my parents live. My mother had been to visit us in Clermont-Ferrand when Mikus was born, but my father and grandmother had yet to meet him and due to some other travel plans this was the ideal time for me and the boys to spend a month with the family we had missed so much while living in France.

We settled in and let the boys pick up a routine, and then came the other travel plans I spoke of, a trip to Utah for a wedding. My parents, brother and sister Z were instrumental in making this trip a success, it was hard enough logistically figuring everything out much less emotionally. Still, somehow I found myself alone on a plane headed west, for the first time in two years not only sans children but a thousand miles away from them.

I met my husband in the airport where we rented a car and headed south. For him, a bachelor party awaited. I had decided soon after receiving the wedding invitation that I wasn’t going to lounge around and wait for the boys to be finished with whatever it was they were going to be doing, that I was going to have my own fun. So I continued southeast, to Arches National Park. I spent the next 30 hours hiking, camping, taking photographs and missing my two boys. More on the Park in a later post.

Dirty, tired and hungry I retraced my steps northwest to the town I had dropped Roberts off in. He had already departed with the groom-to-be and a majority of the bachelor party crew for Park City, central to the wedding festivities, but I stopped to visit one of the casualties in the hospital. (It isn’t a bachelor party without someone ending up in the hospital?) An ATV accident landed one friend in the hospital with a punctured lung, two collapsed lungs and a cracked rib, while another escaped with cuts and road rash; both were extremely lucky considering the circumstances.

It was after midnight when I finally rejoined the others in Park City where the rehearsal dinner had ended and I was by far the dirtiest and smelliest person in the hotel. Two showers later I was snoring away for my first uninterrupted night of sleep in three years. 1,300 miles away my parents were busy spoiling the two little interruptions silly…

The final couple of days passed just as quickly as the first two. Park City is the home to the Sundance Film Festival, and nearby ski resorts were major locations for the 2002 Winter Olympics. Further claims to fame include filming parts of “Dumb and Dumber” in the city, and being the original home to the Mrs. Fields Cookies chain. We got to check out Main Street for a quick brunch and ice cream the first day, and breakfast the second. A beautiful little tourist town, there was a Sunday market, plenty of dining options and miles of mountain biking, skiing and hiking trails within a very short drive.

But we were there for a wedding, and so on Saturday we headed to Salt Lake City. The sealing ceremony was to take place in the Salt Lake Temple in Temple Square. As we are not members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints we did not participate in the ceremony, but instead awaited the newlyweds in the beautiful temple grounds.

For those of us unable to see the marriage ceremony the couple had an exchange of rings in a ranch not far from Park City. In the soft afternoon light with a creek gurgling just next to us, we watched our friends say their vows and exchange rings.

Very simply, a beautiful ceremony and reception – the happiness of both bride and groom evident in every facial expression, word and movement. I am so very glad that they found one another, and I wish them happiness in their coming journey together. (Happiness, and children!) Because despite a missed flight and an extra three hours wait I was extremely delighted to see my two boys again, and reminded what a blessing it is to be not only a wife, but also a mother. Thanks to N & K for sharing their special day with us, it was a joy. And thanks to my family for caring for Lauris and Mikus and giving me a long-anticipated break, the extra sleep has recharged me for at least a day or two!