Baltic Christmas Day 22 - Stay Tuned...

This time of year it is a shared love for tradition and food that brings us together, pīrāgi, kugelis and piparkook bringing our thoughts and hearts (and stomachs!) to the Baltics and our heritage. I would like to keep this flame burning after the holidays have come and gone, and so have invited the Toronto 2019 Latvian Song & Dance Festival organizing committee to join us today on Day 22 of 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas with a post celebrating another common love - SONG!

Did you know, that Toronto, Canada will host the XV Latvian Song Festival from July 4 to 7, in 2019?

If you can’t make it to Latvia, then we’re bringing Latvia to you!

Latvian Song Festivals are held in different parts of the world each year. Latvia’s is considered to be one of the largest amateur choral events in the world, and an important event in Latvian culture and social life. Traditionally, every festival is about presenting theater, folk dancing, art exhibits, outdoor events, a marketplace and much, much more. What makes each festival special is the unique talent it features.

The two traditional main events, the Folk Dance Show and the Massed Choir Concert will be held in the historic Maple Leaf Gardens venue that has undergone a huge renovation since the last time these events were held there. We are happy to announce that Kristīna Kārklis-Kalniņš and her group Raxtu Raxti will be providing the live music accompaniment for both events!

Raxtu Raxti

But there is more.

Over the four festival days the folk dancing featured will vary from new choreographies to a showcase of old and new dances at the Folk Dance Show. Our festival is proud to announce that one of Latvia’s award-winning dance groups, “Līgo” is coming to Toronto! Not only will they be performing at the Folk Dance Show, but will also be showcasing their talents in a separate concert at Blume Appel Theatre.

To help understand Latvian folk dance, here are a few words from choreographer Zigis Miezitis:

Latvian folk dances go back to prehistory – they were performed in joy and sorrow. Dancing for joy – after a job well done, at harvest time, performing mummery, or for simple amusement during the long winter months. Dancing in sorrow – at funerals, to obliterate the foot prints of the departed and lessen the sorrow of the survivors.

What can we expect of the future? …. Essentially, the ethnic Latvian dances are simple and measured: that is their character. Slowly they are being replaced by faster, more elaborate choreographies. That is to be expected as life in our New Era has a faster pace, less restraint, faster interchange of information. There is a time deficit, inability to process, to evaluate, and separate the useful from the useless. Present day choreographers are professionals, highly educated, creating new dance forms in their occupation but that does not prevent amateurs from trying their hand at this too.

So our dance committee has chosen to highlight these aspects of the traditional festival that compliments Latvia’s initiatives when they present to the world their 2019 festival:

TDA “Līgo” is an award-winning Latvian dance troop under the tutelage of Janis Purviņš, one of Latvia’s most gifted choreographers. His innovative dance reflects the essence of Latvia’s soul, and also what Latvians take pride in… their heritage and their customs. Each new dance is unique, and shows a different dimension of who we are and where we’ve come from.

TDA Līgo

The new choreographies will showcase submissions from dance groups from Canada, the U.S.A., Latvia and various other countries from Europe. As our country evolves, so does our dance. Every tautas deja promises to exhibit each choreographer’s interpretation of the new genre of Latvian dance, while still keeping with tradition. In a break from tradition there will be no judges this time, but you will be able to weigh in… come see how.

Lastly, we have our Folk Dance Spectacle. It will showcase the many dance groups from all over the world coming together to show that tradition can be preserved and yet built upon to reflect the new. Its motto is: Latvia – Together We Stand – In our Love of Dance.

The main hotel will be the Toronto Hilton, located in the heart of downtown Toronto. During the day everyone gets to meet and mingle in all sorts of places in the hotel. During the festival the rooftop terrace will be open for live entertainment, and a piano at the bar available for everyone to join in on what Latvians like to do best – sing!

Toronto has a lot to offer… Why not come early and visit some of its beautiful sites? We’ll keep everyone informed of any important information, as time goes on, on our website: http://latviansongfest.com

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United in song, connected by dance. A celebration of Latvian culture!  

I couldn't resist adding these two photos from my very first Dziesmu svētki in Toronto in 1991! (from the Femme au Foyer archives...)

Thanks to the Toronto XV Latviešu Dziesmu Svētki Kanadā rīcības komiteja for the look at the 2019 Song & Dance Festival! The modern day festival is an integral part of Latvian culture, and remains an anchor of Latvian tradition outside of Latvia. I wish the organizers endurance and strength over the next year as they invest in putting on a Dziesmu svētki for the history books! Please join me in supporting them by signing up for updates on their Facebook page, Twitter, Instagram or for email updates, and stay tuned for more on the Toronto festival here on Femme au Foyer over the coming year…

Only two more days left in the series… Please join me tomorrow for an Estonian finale to 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas!

Baltic Christmas Day 2 - The Holiday Markets

While living in Chicago I always looked forward to December and the various Christmas tirdziņi that would take place on the weekends. The several churches would each have a Christmas bazaar one December weekend, and the Latvian School would host theirs on the third Saturday. Although these markets are the perfect place to pick up beautiful handmade gifts, there’s always the lure of tortes and pīrāgi for those already finished with their holiday shopping!

Photo source: Northern California Latvian Association Baltic Christmas Fair

Whether you are looking for traditional Baltic jewelry, linen textiles, ceramic art or just a few trimmings for your tree, here’s your chance! There are a few cities that host their markets in November*, but with more than a dozen tirdziņi still to come there is plenty of time to score the perfect Lithuanian, Estonian or Latvian present! Events are listed by date and alphabetical order by state (or country/city).

Today, December 2nd

Australia (Adelaide): 2-5pm Latvian Federation of South Australia Christmas fair (source)

U.K. (London): 10am-4pm The Latvian Daugavas Vanagi annual holiday market to include concert by “Kokļu zapte” and folk dancing by the London Latvian school (source)

CA (San Francisco): 10am-4pm 4^th Annual Baltic Christmas Fair (source)

CO (Lakewood): The Colorado Latvians Christmas bazaar starts at 10am (source)

IL (Chicago): Not a market, but a wonderful opportunity to take home traditional Lithuanian holiday ornaments: "Learn how to create beautiful Lithuanian straw Christmas ornaments at this year's Straw Christmas Ornament Workshop at the Balzekas Museum of Lithuanian Culture" (source)
IL (Lemont): 9am-4pm: A merry holiday market at the Lithuanian World Center (source)

IL (Wood Dale): 9am-4pm The St. Peter’s Latvian Church bazaar

MI (Kalamazoo): 10am-2pm The Kalamazoo Latvians will host the 55th annual European Christmas Bazaar at the Latvian Center (source)

MN (Minneapolis): 11am-3pm Latvian Ev. Luth. Church Christmas Bazaar (source)

NY (NYC): 3-5pm NY Estonian House annual Jõululaat (source)

OR (Portland): 10am-4pm Ziemassvētku tirdziņš hosted by the Oregon Latvian Society (source)

PA (Quakertown): 10-6pm Kringle Christmas Shoppe (source)

PA (Philadelphia): 12-6pm The Latvian Society Winter Holiday Fair and Market (source)

WI (Milwaukee): 10-3pm Milwaukee Latvian Evangelical Lutheran Holy Trinity Church Holiday Cookie and Gift Fair (source)

Sunday, December 3^rd

Canada (Vancouver): 12:15pm: Kuldse Klubi jõululaat / Pensioner’s Club Christmas Bazaar (source)

CA (Los Angeles): 11am-2pm Estonian House annual Jõululaat hosted by the Estonian Society of LA (source)

CA (Los Angeles): The South-California Latvian Society hosts the Christmas fair at the Latvian Center (source)

CO (Lakewood): The Colorado Latvians Christmas bazaar starts at 11am (source)

IL (Chicago): 9:30am The Latvian Daugavas Vanagi Christmas bazaar
IL (Lemont): 10am-3pm: A merry holiday market at the Lithuanian World Center (source)

MA (Brookline): 12-2pm The Boston Latvian Church Christmas Bazaar (source)

MD (Rockville): 12pm Washington DC Latvian Lutheran Church annual Christmas Bazaar

PA (Quakertown): 10-4pm Kringle Christmas Shoppe (source)

NY (Melville): 10:30am The NY Latvian Ev. Lutheran congregation’s annual Christmas bazaar at the Salas Church (source)

Saturday, December 9th

Canada (Montreal): 1-5pm: Jõulu Basaar, the annual Christmas bazaar hosted by the Montreal Estonian Society

Canada (Toronto): 12-4pm Rahvajõulupuu 2017 / An Estonian Christmas at the Toronto Estonian House (source)

NY (NYC): 12pm Holiday market in the Daugavas Vanagu nams including concert by saxophone player Alex and DJ Michael (source)

Sunday, December 10th

IL (Chicago): 9am Ciānas annual Christmas market with performances by Stariņš and the Čikāgas bērnu ansamblis! 

MD (Baltimore): 12-4pm Baltimorės Lietuvių Namuose Kalėdinė Mugė hosted by the Lithuanian Hall of Baltimore (source)

CA (Los Angeles): 12-4pm Marytės Kalėdinę Mugę - lietuvišką Kalėdinį kaimelį at the Lithuanian House in LA (source)

Saturday, December 16th

IL (Chicago): 9am-3pm The Latvian School of Chicago’s annual Christmas bazaar (source)

Denmark (Velje): 2-6pm Latviešu-dāņu biedrības Ziemassvētku eglīte un tirdziņš (source)

U.K. (London): 11am-4:30pm Kalėdinė Mugė hosted by LT Baltic events at the Chandos Community Center in Leyton (source)

Sunday, December 17^th

Australia (Melbourne): 12:30-2pm Melbourne Lithuanian Club’s Prieškalėdinis Turgelis (source)

Please comment if you know of any Baltic Christmas markets/bazaars that I have missed – I will add them as I get them and I thank you in advance for your help!

Please, shop local and shop thoughtful this holiday season! Supporting the local tirdziņi is a great way to support the local craftspeople who are making traditional Baltic jewelry, textile goods and other handmade products, and not only do you get presents out of the deal, you also get fresh piparkūkas, oftentimes a warm lunch, and the company of other Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians in this very merry holiday season! Cheerful shopping and welcome back tomorrow on Day Three of 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas for insight into one of the most curious of holiday foods…

  

* For future knowledge, those considering attending a Baltic Christmas market in November should look into the dates for the following:

- The Estonian House in Riverwoods, IL hosts the International Christmas Market “Jõululaat” on what is usually the second Saturday of the month. Holiday fun with Baltic and Scandinavian flare! (source)

- The Seattle Latvian Christmas Bazaar at the Latvian Cultural Center is often on the second weekend of November. (source)

West Toronto, from Dundas to Bloor

On my solo trip (+Vilis) to Toronto last year my cousin Kaiva gave me a tour of the up-and-coming Junction neighborhood along Dundas St. W including stops at several used bookstores and past two or three old churches that were renovated into apartment buildings. In addition to stopping in at Crema Coffee Company (and bypassing some high-allure art supply stores), we passed by Pacific Street where the weekly farmers market is located. As our visit was on a weekday, we were not able to check out the Junction Farmers Market; I was happy that our recent trip afforded us a free Saturday morning to go for a walk that would include this local treat.

One bag of cherries, two Bavarian pretzels and a cupcake later we were sitting on the steps, listening to a woman with a lovely voice singing all the favorites, one after another. Once the cupcake and pretzels had been demolished, we headed further along Dundas in search of a bookstore I thought I had seen. Although we didn’t find it, we did stumble into Pascal’s Baguette & Bagels, lured by the promise of “smoked salmon on free-ranged eggs on sundried tomato baguette w/housemade sauce and made to perfection.”

The heart of the West Toronto Junction is at the intersection of Dundas and Keele Streets, where the Post Office & Customs House and Town Hall (including the police station and fire hall) once stood. Still standing are the original Bank of British North America (1907), the Thompson Block (1889), the Bank of Toronto (1911) and the Campbell Block (1888). Headed south down Keele we left The Junction for the High Park North neighborhood, lined with residential homes and dotted with parks.

Although named for location in relation to High Park (the famous 400-acre park that stretches all the way to Lake Shore Blvd and Humber Bay), there are a few smaller parks scattered about and we made it our mission to stop in all that we passed. We check Baird Park off the list without sacrificing our clothes to the wading pool, but at Lithuania Park all bets were off (along with many articles of clothing).

I’ve always felt it a stereotype to say that Canadians can be a bit weird, but then there’s this...

We crossed down to High Park and headed west along Bloor St W where we soon made a pit stop for coffee and smoothies at Timothy’s World Coffee in Bloor West Village. This area is completely different from Dundas – the used bookstores are replaced with ones selling new books (actually, now it’s singular as the Chapters closed at some point), and stores with fruit and flower displays on the sidewalk face the street. You’ve also got some larger, chain groceries, and restaurants and boutiques fill in the rest of the space.

(actually on Dundas in The Junction, but I really liked the storefront!)

Once we turned north on Runnymeade we were back in a residential neighborhood, hitting a few shops at the intersection with Annette but otherwise a much quieter stroll. All together this walking tour of these three/four neighborhoods took the whole morning, especially as we made frequent stops to shop and play. But at under 4 miles it was a do-able exploration of a portion of the west end of Toronto, giving an opposing perspective to the tourist central adventure along the lakefront in the heart of downtown, or the summer weekend destination of Toronto Island Park. We arrived back with just enough time to shower before heading to the #Mija2016 wedding celebration…

Toronto's Railway Lands and Harbourfront

The area around the landmark CN Tower in Toronto was once a large railway switching yard. Owned and maintained by the Canadian National Railway, this prime real estate near the waterfront has since been redeveloped and is today home to the Rogers Centre, Ripley’s Aquarium Canada and the famous tower (whose name refers to the Canadian National, the rail company that built the tower). The neighborhood is named Railway Lands and includes the South Core and City Place neighborhoods (also known as the Entertainment District), and just south is the Harbourfront, which faces the inner harbor and the Toronto Islands.

Downtown Toronto is easily accessible by bus and train, and one morning we took the subway to Union Station, the crossroads of Toronto Transit Commission’s (TTC) subway and streetcar system, Via Rail, Amtrak and GO Transit rail services. This National Historic Site of Canada serves over 250,000 passengers a day, serving as a connecting hub for the Union Station Bus Terminal just across the street and to the airport, with the Union Pearson Express train offering service to the airport.

Connecting Union Station to the CN Tower and the Rogers Centre (SkyDome) is the SkyWalk, a 1640ft enclosed walkway that passes above the York Street subway and the Simcoe Street Tunnel. Opened in 1989, the post-modern curved metal and glass structure was the first major construction project in Railway Lands after the CN Tower.

We emerged from the Skyway behind the Ripley's Aquarium of Canada, our morning destination, and at the base of the CN Tower.

Across the street from Ripley’s are Roundhouse Park, Toronto Railway Museum and Steam Whistle Brewing. The brewery offers a tour and taste, where visitors can learn how the pilsner is made, tour the "green buildings" and catch up on the railway history of the area. We continued south under the Gardiner Expressway, and across to the Simcoe Wave Deck. The 2009 project was inspired by the shorelines of Ontario’s Great Lakes, the 200 foot-long yellow glulam cedar and ipe wood construction an undulating rollercoaster of curves.

We stopped in at the Amsterdam BrewHouse for lunch, sampling their brews with several tasting flights alongside a diverse menu of burgers, seafood and pizza. Once the Blue Jays game ended, a wave of people arrived at the BrewHouse to refuel, the extensive indoor seating area and two outdoor patios providing plenty of space for hungry fans.

The rear patio and the adjacent walkways provide beautiful views of the Inner Harbor and the planes departing from Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport. We admired the view, and even caught glimpse of a mysterious pirate ship in the lake fog, a cannonshot echoing across the water surprising adults and kids alike. Our best guess is that one of the tall ships was rented out for a wedding ceremony as there appeared to be dozens of guests onboard, although you never know…

Having crossed over the Amsterdam Bridge we continued along the Waterfront Trail, passing Lakou Mizik doing their sound check on a concert stage (Cowboy Junkies had performed the previous week). Having circled around the Harbourfront Centre we were now only a short distance from Union Station, marking the end of that day’s tour of the waterfront. However, Harbour Square Park and the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal is just another block over, and so the lakefront exploration could easily extend to the Toronto Island Park via a short ferry ride. Or, you could head west along the Waterfront Trail, to explore the Spadina Quay Wetlands, the Toronto Music Garden and HTO Park. Regardless, the area has come a long way since the years of rail switching yards and shipping warehouses, transformed over the course of two decades into a gathering space with tourist attractions and favorite local spots alike that add to the vibrancy of Toronto’s downtown.

Toronto Island Park

When I think of being a tourist in Toronto, I think CN Tower, Ripley’s Aquarium Canada, ROM, High Park and the waterfront, a combination of historic, iconic, family-adventure and the outdoors. What this list is missing might be the best option to get in a little of everything Toronto-ish in just one day… a visit to Toronto Island Park.

This island retreat in the middle of the city is accessible by a short ferry ride from the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal in downtown Toronto, within walking distance from the popular Harbourfront area. Ferry prices are reasonable: adults $7.50, students/seniors (ages 15-19 and over 65 with proof of age) $5.00, children ages 2 to 14 $3.65 and infants under 2 free (prices in Canadian dollars as of May 2016 and include return trip, for vehicle pricing and monthly pass info see ferry website). On your way out to the island grab a spot at the railing looking back at the city – the view of the Toronto skyline is unbeatable, except maybe from a plane…

There are actually three separate ferries, one heading to Ward’s Island on the east end, one to Hanlan’s Point on the west end, and the third to Centre Island. Home to Far Enough Farm and Centreville Amusement Park, the 30 rides and bevy of animals could keep you busy all day. Keep in mind there’s still the entire main island to explore, starting with its four beaches: Ward’s Island Beach (west end), Centre Island Beach, Gibraltar Point Beach and Hanlan’s Point Clothing Optional Beach (east end). We chose Manitou, even though with three kids under six clothing optional activities are rather commonplace.

We crossed the bridge from Center Island and strolled past a fountain and through large, formal gardens to reach the water. The pier at Manitou Beach is adjacent to the island bar, bicycle rental and changing room facilities, and Centre Island Beach is right there. All the beaches have lifeguards on site, but pay attention to the flags; it might be a red-flag day due to water quality. Don’t let this keep you dry though, head to the nearby splash pad and playground if the sun and surf isn’t your thing!

out on the pier

My favorite part of the whole Toronto Island Park experience was Franklin Children’s Garden. This interactive garden is inspired by the Franklin the Turtle book series, and there was so much to explore that we ended up spending over an hour there. We climbed the Snail Trail, played in the Hide and Seek Garden, watched bees at the Pollination Station and helped water the Little Sprouts Garden.

The William Meany Maze is not far from the gardens and proved to be a challenge the boys couldn’t resist. 1,200 black cedar trees create a hedge maze to truly get lost in…

A little further west from the garden is the Gibraltar Point Lighthouse, the 200 year-old (reportedly haunted) historical beacon that is the oldest stone building in Toronto and Canada’s oldest standing lighthouse. Past that is Hanlan’s Beach, beyond which is Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, which you might have flown into if you’ve ever flown Porter to Toronto – a good spot to watch planes with the kids. Meanwhile, on the east end of the island are the car-free communities of Ward’s and Algonquin Islands with their distinctive architecture and beautiful summer gardens (approximately 750 people live in the 262 homes year round). There is a guided tram tour that will visit all these historical sites, or you can rent a boat or paddleboard and explore via water. And if swimming, cycling and boating don’t use up all your energy, there’s even an 18-hole disc golf course, volleyball courts and tennis courts. Once you get hungry there are food & beverage vendors located through the park, or you can find one of the 40 picnic sites dotting the island if you’ve brought your own food. Finally, you’ll find several other park and private vendors and activities throughout the park, ranging from the Toronto Island Challenge Course to the Pirate Life Children’s Theatre, which urges visitors to join the crew & search for treasure!

I’m not sure when we’ll next return to Toronto, but I hope that on our next trip Toronto Island Park is included. I would love to explore in autumn when the monarch butterflies are migrating through, to see the sand dunes in the spring, or to take the boys fishing; northern pike, panfish and largemouth bass populate the weedy shallows of the lagoons. It would be fun to take either the Ward’s Island or Hanlan’s Point ferry across and then work our way across the entire park, we would just have to tear ourselves away from the beaches and gardens! The park is truly an island escape, and although you might be reluctant to leave, just make sure of one thing – that you don’t miss the last ferry back to the city and that scenic view of the downtown skyline!

#Mija2016

While we were living in France, it felt like we missed so many big days: birthdays, graduations, christenings, confirmations, weddings… Although we tried our hardest to stay in touch with our friends and family, it was hard to watch the distances seemingly grow, and moving back to Greenville didn’t entirely bridge the gap – we are still far from the cities we grew up in. But then celebrations occur that bring us back into the fold of friends and family, and it’s as if we never left – we’re thankful for these moments and grateful that we can be there.

It was the wedding of a couple of friends that brought us to Toronto, but we seized the opportunity to stretch out our visit over four days to also spend time with family. On both sides, actually, as my mother’s sister lives there, but Roberts’s brother and wife were in town from Latvia for the festivities. Not only were we able to spend some time with my godparents and let the boys get to know everyone better, but we also had the opportunity to play tourist in a town I’ve often visited but rarely seen.

The wedding was beautiful. We left the boys with my godmother and ‘Toronto Juris,’ and headed to the east side of the city to Fantasy Farm, a hidden retreat just off Don Valley Parkway. Although a drizzle kept the ceremony short, it wasn’t just rain I was wiping from my eyes as they exchanged vows…

A true celebration followed, the occasion pulling together friends from all corners of the globe. We were by no means the guests who had traveled the furthest, as in addition to the before-mentioned brother & sister-in-law from Rīga, we were seated at a table with our friends living in Doha, Qatar. As well as traveling long distances to be with the bride and groom, surprisingly many had made the journey with new families. In addition to a couple of babies not even a month old, it also seemed that every other woman at the wedding was pregnant – like 8 months pregnant!

The blogging-press was out in full force; in addition to yours truly and an expat blogger, the Latvian financial sector was represented, as was a Canadian lifestyle & garden blog. All kidding aside, it was a great time catching up with old friends, putting some faces to names, and making new acquaintances.

It was long after the tortes had been brought out and the food truck left that we reluctantly tore ourselves away; the kids might be sleeping now (thanks A&J!), but we knew very well what the next morning would bring. Of course, we still had a couple of parties to attend in addition to a day of sightseeing ahead of us, so we would be seeing many of our friends again over the next couple of days.

Mija, I wish you both the best. Thank you for sharing your special day with us!

Underwater in Toronto

A wedding took us to Toronto where we then had some time to play tourist, unlike the past couple of times I traveled to Ontario (once for a scout leaders’ conference and once with Vilis for this wedding). Our explorations took us to the comparatively new Ripley’s Aquarium Canada, located adjacent to the CN Tower. Construction was originally planned for the Niagara Falls area, but plans fell through and Ripley's ended up in Toronto. What was once a no-man’s-land around the rail lines became a $130 million (Canadian) project in August 2011, opening to the public in October 2013.

Canada’s largest indoor aquarium, the attraction contains 1.5 million gallons of water. We got our feet wet in “Canadian Waters,” the exhibit highlighting 17 different habitats, before heading to “Rainbow Reef,” with its vast collection of tropical fish.

Everyone enjoyed “Dangerous Lagoon,” the underwater tunnel that wound under and through the giant tank full of sharks. The moving walkway helped keep the crowds moving, but the length of the tunnel ensured we got our money’s worth of giants swimming overhead.

A pause in the Discovery Center while the kids explored the playground and pet the Horseshoe Crabs before continuing on to the “Ray Bay.” These guys were a touch larger than the ones we had met last week at Roper Mountain Science Center’s Marine Lab…

My favorite exhibit was “Planet Jellies.” The eight tanks of different jellyfish were backlit in color-changing displays that were simply mesmerizing. The presentation was similar to that of the Georgia Aquarium, although the tanks were bigger and more numerous.

We bought tickets on site, but if you would prefer to save some money make sure to book online a few days before. Our Friday visit coincided with the start of summer vacation and the place was obnoxiously packed, so if you would prefer a quieter visit consider a different day of the week, or simply go off-season. The layout allows for a continuous exploration of the aquarium without having to double-back or possibly miss a portion, and is comfortably viewed in three hours. Discovery Center (which is about halfway) offers snacks for sale, and various live dive shows and other programs are programmed throughout the day; see website for details.