Rīga with Kids!

Congratulations! You’ve booked your trip to Latvia this summer, scored the hard-to-get tickets to the historic LV100 Dziesmu un Deju Svētki, and survived the 10 hour flight with your kiddos (extra points for each connection!). Now what? Some days are filled with concerts, cultural events and other LV100 opportunities, however you know that the children will need some downtime – a little time to explore and be kids. After being asked a couple of times for favorite spots to go as a family, I’ve put together a list of things to do with children in and around Rīga.

Parks

The easiest way to squeeze in some time outdoors is at one of the nearby parks. Vērmanes dārzs is one of our favorites as it is centrally located, has a playground with plenty of shaded benches around, and offers trampolines/bounce houses/kids car rides (for a small fee). Buy some ice cream or freshly spun cotton candy and explore the gardens, or time your visit to coincide with one of the many festivals and tirdziņi that take place there every summer such as the Dziesmu svētku gadatirgus (July 1-8) or Rīgas svētki 2018 (August 17-19). Catch a concert on one of the stages and relax before heading further to Vecrīga.

Fellow blogger Brigita suggests the Centra sporta kvartāls park on Krišjāņa Barona iela for Rīga-themed and sports-based fun. You can read her post here – Rīga With Kids Tip.

The song festival wall in Viesturdārzs

Kronvalda parks takes you along the canal and past some cool statues and historical sites. If you’re in town for the song festival, you’ll want to visit the oldest park in Rīga, Viesturdārzs; also known as the song festival park, it has a reflecting pool with fountains and portrait wall dedicated to Dziesmu svētki. And adjacent to Brīvības piemineklis is Bastejkalns park, with memorials to those who died in 1991, the foundations of an old castle, a mini bridge with love locks, and scenic views of the canal. 

Activities

See Rīga from above! A neat way to get the lay of the land during the first days of your stay is by visiting one of the many places that offers a scenic view of the city. Svētā Petera baznīca provides one of our favorite views, although if you would like to enjoy the scenery while enjoying a drink in a retro bar, try Skyline Bar. The Radio tower is also an option, although a bit harder to get to from downtown Rīga.

The view from St. Peter's Church

Take a wooden boat tour of the Rīga canal! Combined with a short stretch of the Daugava River, the canal makes a big loop around Vecrīga - allowing for the distinctive opportunity to sightsee a city by boat.

Those who prefer to travel by land will want to walk the streets of Vecrīga. There is no better way to explore the cobblestoned streets and hidden courtyards of the old city than by foot! Sit down at an outdoor alus dārzs for ķiploku grauzdiņi for the kids, cross through the historic city gates, shop for everything from amber jewelry to folk music to children's literature, spot the cats adorning the infamous Kaķu nams, and admire the elegant beauty of the many churches while soaking in the history of the city that was born in 1201!

Spotted one of the cats!

Head to one of the many markets! Centrāltirgus is the biggest, and you can spend hours wandering through the giant zeppelin hangars. Buy some berries picked that morning while shopping for dinner, or just pick up a couple of souvenirs and ogle/smell the fish stalls.

Don't forget to eat! The LIDO chain is popular with many children and parents, simply because it lets them see the food they are ordering - which can be a relief for parents of fussy eaters or just those unfamiliar with Latvian cuisine. The LIDO Recreation Centre offers not just a meal, but a dining experience complete with live music and family recreation.

Educational opportunities

You’ll want to visit the magnificent National Library while you’re in Rīga, Gaismas pils. Older children might enjoy going on the free tour, while younger kids will love to spend some time in the children’s library. Make sure to take them to see the dainu skapis on the 5th floor that once stored the folk song collection of Krišjānis Barons.

Exploring the Art Nouveu District on a self-guided tour or with an official tour service might be a good choice for a group of varied ages. The younger children can have fun spotting all the animals & mythical creatures contained within the building facades, while older kids and adults can delve into the distinctive architectural unlike any in the world. 

Laima Chocolate Museum is a must for the chocolate lover.

The Rīga Zoo is just a tram ride away. It’s located adjacent to Mežaparks where you’ll find all sorts of other family-friendly activities such as a paintball center and a mini golf course.

Botāniskā dārzā

The Botanical Gardens of the University of Latvia can be a little harder to reach if you’re utilizing public transportation, but are worth the effort. Boasting an arboretum, palm house and butterfly house, the 40-acre gardens also have a rabbit enclosure that will delight smaller children. 

For a deeper look into the painful history of the Baltics, older children would benefit from a visit to the Okupācijas muzējs. Note, this museum is more appropriate for young adults than young children, and delves into very serious subject matter. However for those of us who grew up outside of Latvia, it offers insight into the tragic years that shaped our tēvuzeme. 

There are dozens of museums in Rīga, it’s just a matter of finding one to suit your interests. See if this post by Family With Kids helps: Things to Do and See with Kids in Riga, a Family Vacation in Latvia

  

LV100/Dziesmusvētki

In addition to all the ticketed events there will be many free, open to the public concerts and other events taking place across the city. One of our favorites is the Dziesmu svētku gājiens, where every song and dance festival participant parades down Brīvības ielas on the final day of the festival. 

Check out the Live Rīga website for events taking place across the city in honor of LV100 and the song festival.

Day Trips

Cross Lielupe to reach Jūrmala, 20 miles of beach on the Baltic Sea. Each municipality has its own distinct vibe, so with a little research you’ll quickly find the area that best suits your needs. Or, if you don’t want to go all the way to Jūrmala, stop at Līvu akvaparks for waterpark fun.

If you’re looking to head to the beach but want something a little quieter than Jūrmala, try heading east, to Saulkrasti. Need a little extra convincing? Take a look at these photos...

Ķemeru nacionālais parks is the closest National Park to the capital, and has miles of trails and boarwalks that explore the unique ecosystems within.

The bogs of Ķemeri National Park

And about an hour east of Rīga (by car) you’ll find Sigulda (and neighboring Krimulda), with Gūtmaņala and the ancient castle of Turaida, all popular tourist destinations.

I hope you enjoy your time in Rīga, and urge you to make the absolute most of your time there! Dziesmu svētki in Latvia are a unique chance to see the country all dressed up for the festivities, and to sample the many cultural, natural, historical and culinary experiences it has to offer. I would love to hear what your favorite places were to visit as a family, and please let me know what I’ve missed. Safe travels!!!

Another Baltic Christmas - Day 5 and the Christmas bazaar!

While living in Chicago I always looked forward to December and the various Christmas tirdziņi that would take place on the weekends. Each of the churches would have a Christmas bazaar one December weekend, and the Latvian School would host theirs on the third Saturday. Although these markets are the perfect place to pick up beautiful handmade gifts, there’s always the lure of tortes and pīrāgi for those already finished with their holiday shopping!

I wish we lived in one of the big Latvian centers because I miss these annual social events. However, all of you readers still have the opportunity to shop (and eat) your way through more than a dozen tirdziņi across the US and Canada! (ok, there are a few in Australia and Europe mixed in too…)

photo source here

Today, December 5^th

Australia (Adelaide): The Latvian Daugavas Vanagi holiday market is today at 1pm (source)

CA (San Francisco): 10am-4pm Baltic Christmas Fair at the Latvian House (source)

CO (Lakewood): 9am-1:30pm Colorado Latvians Christmas bazaar (source)

FL (St. Petersburg): 1pm The Florida Latvian Soviety’s Christmas bazaar (source)

IL (Wood Dale): 9am-5pm The St. Peter's Latvian Lutheran Church bazaar

MI (Kalamazoo): 10am-2pm Kalamazoo Latvian Association European Christmas Bazaar (source)
MN (Minneapolis): 11am-3pm Latvian Ev. Luth. Church Christmas Bazaar (source)

NY (NYC): 2pm NY Estonian House annual Jõululaat (source)

PA (Quakertown): Bucks County Latvian Baptist Church Kringle Christmas Shoppe (source)

PA (Philadelphia): 12-5pm The Latvian Society of Philadelphia’s annual holiday market (source)

WI (Wauwatosa): 10am-3pm Holiday Cookie and Gift Fair (source)

Sunday, December 6^th

BC Canada, Vancouver: 12pm Jõululaat, the Vancouver Estonian Society Christmas Bazaar (source) 
CA (Los Angeles): The South-California Latvian Society hosts the Christmas bazaar in the Latvian House (source)

CO (Lakewood): 11am-1:30pm Colorado Latvians Christmas bazaar (source) 

IL (Chicago): 9am The Latvian Daugavas Vanagi Christmas bazaar (source)

IL (Wood Dale): 11am-1pm The St. Peter’s Latvian Lutheran Church bazaar

MA (Brookline): 12-3pm The Boston Latvian Church Christmas Bazaar (source)

MD (Rockville): 12pm-2pm Washington DC Latvian Lutheran Church annual Christmas Bazaar (source)

NY (Melville): 10:30am The NY Latvian Ev. Lutheran congregation’s annual Christmas bazaar at the Salas Church (source)

OH (Lakewood): 9-11am Hosted by the Cleveland Womens Auxiliary, located at 1385 Andrews Ave.

PA (Quakertown): Bucks County Latvian Baptist Church Kringle Christmas Shoppe (source)

Saturday, December 12^th

Baltimore: 1-5pm Lithuanian Hall Christmas Bazaar (source)

Sunday, December 13^th

IL (Chicago): 9am Chicago’s Ciānas congregation’s annual Christmas bazaar (source)

Saturday, December 19^th

IL (Chicago): The Latvian School of Chicago’s annual Christmas bazaar

IN (Indianapolis): The Latvian Community Center annual bake sale (source) 

Sweden (Stokholm): 1pm The Swedish Latvian Association (source) 

source here

You might have noticed this list is heavy on the Latvian markets, and possibly you can guess why this is… I hope you will chime in with any Baltic bazaars being held in your neck of the woods that I have missed – I will add them as I get them and I thank you in advance for your help! Of course please check original sources for more information/cancellations; I have tried to be accurate but errors do occur, especially with my three assistants buzzing in the background.

Please, shop local and shop thoughtful this holiday season. Supporting the local tirdziņi is a great way to support the local craftspeople who are making traditional Baltic jewelry, textile goods and other handmade products, and not only do you get presents out of the deal, you also get fresh piparkūkas, oftentimes a warm lunch, and the company of other Estonians, Latvians and Lithuanians in this very merry holiday season! Cheerful shopping, and welcome back tomorrow on day six of 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas for some delicious Lithuanian Christmas cookies…

Riga from above: St. Peter's Church

There aren’t many places in Rīga where you can get this view.

It was on my very first trip to Latvia ( the spring of 1995) that my grandmother, mother and I visited St. Peter’s Church in Vecrīga. Twenty years later I returned to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, two little boys in tow.

The vistas from that first trip were burned into my memory, the aerial perspective of the art nouveau historical buildings, the churches and red roofs of Vecrīga seeming so familiar, even though I couldn’t name more than a handful.

But there they were. The Rīga Market. The Rīga Cathedral (which just saw the restored rooster returned to the steeple on Tuesday). Egle. Kaķu nams. The radio tower. Pulvertornis. The Brīvības piemineklis.

In high school I painted a cityscape based on some of the photographs I took. And there it was, the church on 10 Mārstaļu St. which is far from one of Rīga’s best known, but was instantly recognizable, as it featured so prominently on my canvas along with the Rīgas central market. I wonder what my art teacher thought of the old architecture mixed in with the futuristic (in fact zeppelin hangar-like!) pavilions… Did my painting also have a river, a Daugava, running through its frame?

On our previous visit to Latvia we walked all the way to St. Peter’s massive wooden doors, only to find the tower was closed for the day. This time around it was open, only a short wait for the elevator standing between us and the view from 236 feet. We paid a small sum for the pleasure, the boys all smiles in anticipation, and then we emerged, to blue skies and fantastic sights.

The first mention of St. Peter's Church is in records dating to 1209, remaining undamaged in the large fire that year due to its stone construction. It was during the 13^th century that the middle section of the church was built, the only remnants of which are located in the outer nave walls and inside a few nave pillars. A second period of construction began in the 1400s, interrupted by first the Polish–Lithuanian–Teutonic War and then the plague. By 1500 it encompassed a basilica with three aisles and ornate vaulted ceilings, a bell tower and an octagonal steeple. The tower collapsed on March 11, 1666, burying not only a neighboring building but also eight people in its debris.

While up until this point the church had been constructed in Gothic and Romanesque building styles, the third period of construction was more along the lines of early Baroque. Between 1671 and 1692 a new tower, a western façade and three identical portals were built, the roof, vaulted ceilings and furnishings renovated partly due to another fire which destroyed the tower, roof, ceilings, windows and interior in 1677. At the time of its construction the new 212 foot copper-roofed steeple was the tallest of its kind in Europe at the time.

The brick facade of the west wall was covered with limestone from Salaspils and Koknese sometime in the 17^th century. The church was decorated with volutes, pilasters, cornices, vases and borders made of Gotland stone, and a new tower clock with a glockenspiel from Amsterdam was installed in 1694.

Lightning struck and set fire to the tower and church May 10, 1721, but it was rebuilt. Then rebuilt again, after it burned down during World War II, destroyed by artillery fire on June 29, 1941. A reproduction of the previous rooster and #7 total was placed atop the steeple in 1970 and the renovated clock tower becoming operational five years later. The St. Peter's Latvian Lutheran congregation resumed services in the church in 1991 and the property returned to the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Latvia on April 4, 2006.

A rendition of what the city of Riga looked like centuries ago

Ticket prices are as follows: 9 euro/adult, 7 euro/university student, 3 euro/elementary student and children under 7 free. The fee covers the interior exhibits and the observation tower, with panoramic views of the medieval and modern capital city of Rīga including the its port, the Gulf and the Daugava River. The interior exhibits feature the history of the church as well as a look at a number of the original elements including the crypt, restored stone and wood epitaphs, and a menorah dating back to 1596. Hours are Tuesday - Saturday from 10am to 6pm & Sundays 12-6pm from September 1^st to April 30^th. Starting May 1^st to August 31^st the hours are prolonged from 10am to 7pm, Sundays 12-7pm. The church is closed on Mondays.

Svētā Sīmaņa baznīca, one of the oldest churches in Latvia

On the shores of the Gauja in central Vidzeme is the city of Valmiera. From archeological evidence we know the site has been inhabited for the last 9,000 years, but it was first chronicled as a town in 1323 after the master of the Livonian Order Wilken von Endorp constructed the Wolmar castle and a Catholic church on the river banks. A member of the Hanseatic League in the 14th- 16th centuries, the city has long been an important crossroads due to the central location and proximity to Rīga and Estonia, as well as the significant trade and travel possibilities on the river.

In the very center of the city is the aforementioned church, St. Simon’s (Svētā Sīmaņa). First constructed in the 13^th century, it is one of the oldest churches in Latvia. The early history of the church differs slightly from source to source as to the exact year construction started and to its original style and size. However it is known and documented that the church has seen various reincarnations; not only has it served as a Catholic and Lutheran church, but it has been rebuilt and remodeled more than a dozen times after war and disaster. In the 1500s and 1600s alone it was destroyed four times. A report from 1613 reads ēka ir bez jumta, samirkušās velves draud sarukt, logi bez rūtīm (“the building is without a roof, the drenched vaults are close to collapse, the windows are without panes…”). Each time restored and rebuilt, it was in 1644 that the bell tower received its rooster and in the mid-17^th century that the church was fully renovated and improved. This was just in time for a spire fire in 1698 and the Russian invasion not long after at which point the church burned down. In the following years the structure saw multiple fires (including two lightning strikes after which a lightning rod was finally installed), and various other improvements and renovations.

After World War II under Soviet occupation the church was converted into a museum and concert hall (various renovations partially responsible for the excellent acoustics today), but it was only in 1988 that the congregation recovered the church and was able to resume worship services. In 2005 Saint Simon’s Church received National Heritage status.

Other notable features of the church include tombstones from the 15^th and 16th centuries in the basement, and an organ built in 1886 by German master craftsman Friedrich Ladegast. The latest renovations were to the spire and tower, and the globe and rooster will be returned to its rightful place sometime this August. During the restoration of the spire a time capsule was discovered, which had been concealed in the 1970s. You can read more about the capsule and its contents in the article “Atver Valmieras Sv.Sīmaņa baznīcas tornī atrasto vēsturisko kapsulu.”

The church grounds are just as historic and noteworthy as the church itself. Due to the elevated location on the river shore the spot was an important defense position. The ruins of the ancient Valmiera castle are located just to the east, and the modern day city hall is to the north. Various walkways connect to the Gaujas tramvaļš stop on the river, Dzirnavu Lake and Luces Park, and museums, cafes, museums and theaters attest to the area's importance as a tourist and cultural center.

It was an honor to attend Matīss and Līga’s wedding in such a remarkable church. We witnessed the exchange of vows during a beautiful service, the church pews were filled to the last with family and friends who had traveled long distances to be with the couple on this momentous occasion. The wedding celebrations were far from over however – soon we were off to historic Dikļi Manor.