Friday, August 31, 2012

Arches National Park


Happy blue moon! (And if you don’t catch this one, don’t worry, the next is July 31, 2015!)

---------------------------

A friend’s wedding brought me out west to Utah, and a little extra planning got me to Arches National Park. Luckily I had been able to borrow a tent, backpack and some other miscellaneous camping supplies from my brother, and having driven the rental from Salt Lake City I now had about 30 hours to explore the 76,000 acre National Park. Located just outside of Moab, it ranges in elevation from 4,085 feet at the visitor center to 5,653 feet at Elephant Butte and has over 2,000 natural arches within its borders.

A colorful Devils Garden
 
300 million years ago there was a sea covering the region, which slowly evaporated leaving behind a salt bed. Over the years more sandstone and shale were deposited, and together these conditions cause the formation of the arches, spires, fins and monoliths in the Park. Evidence of humans dates back 10,000 years: the Fremont People and Ancient Pueblo People lived in the area until 700 years ago, followed by the Ute and Paiute tribes until 1855 when the first European-Americans settled, the Mormon Elk Mountain Mission and later ranchers, farmers and prospectors. Declared a National Monument in 1929 it was redesignated a National Park in 1971.


 
After a stop at the visitor center for some additional information I headed back out to the closest BLM campground on the Colorado River. I had neglected to reserve a campsite within the Park when I initially started planning, and so when I went to book one of the 50 sites in the Devils Garden Campground I found I was too late. Being the only campground in the park it fills up quickly, but I can vouch that the other options seem just as good. I saved $19 by staying at the Goose Island Campground, which was only $10 and about 10 minutes from the visitor center. I arrived late in the day, and about half of the 20 sites were still available, and there are 10-15 other campgrounds in the immediate vicinity. As I took a spot in the first one I visited I can’t vouch for the others, but the Goose Island site was clean, scenic (right on the Colorado River) and easily accessible.

A distant view of Fiery Furnace and a sea of low clouds
 
Back in the Park I headed north. There are several dirt roads leading in and out of the Park, but the paved road takes you in as far as the Devils Garden with side roads to the Windows arches and Delicate arch. According to the rangers,  without stops driving the entire paved section will take two hours, but I found that two days was ideal for quick stops at the scenic viewpoints and all the major hikes. Of course, that is if you are willing to hike 10 miles a day.


The 3 Gossips on the left and Courthouse on the right
 
I stopped at Park Avenue but did not take the trail, next I checked out the Courthouse area (which is at the other end of the Park Avenue trail but accessible from the road). The Three Gossips look like penguins if you ask me, but the Courthouse is appropriately named, as is the Organ. Past the Petrified Dunes and the Balanced Rock I ended up in the Windows Section for the last hours of daylight. There is a cluster of arches in this area, the Double Arch, Turret Arch and Windows being the largest, although I found the views of the Parade of Elephants to be just as interesting. As the sun disappeared behind the clouds I made one last stop, then hightailed it out of the Park in order to attempt to put up the tent with the very last light.

Double Arch had an elephant or two hiding in the rocks as well
 
Luckily for me, the tent my brother loaned me was not too different from the tent that’s currently making its way across the Atlantic and so it was up without too great of difficulty, however this was when it started to rain. Only receiving 10 inches of rain a year on average, 0.4 of them fell that first night. Another half inch or so must have fallen the next evening, and this leads me to wonder about my luck at being in the desert for 1/10th of the total annual rainfall! It was a long night. I don’t remember when the last time I camped in a tent was (I believe it may have been on a trip to Isle Royale over four years ago), and I will admit I was jumpy. All those little critters scampering around looking for snacks woke me up about three times more than Mikus ever wakes me up!

These potholes in the Fiery Furnace area are home to Fairy Shrimp
 
The next morning I was up before first dawn and packed and ready when the sun rose. About 40 minutes later I was already at the very far end of the park, at the Devils Garden Trailhead where only about five other vehicles had arrived before me. Pack on my shoulders I headed along the improved trail to the first three arches, Tunnel, Pine and Landscape, which form a 1.6 mile round trip.

Pine Arch, possibly named due to the bark-like texture of the walls
 
The Landscape arch is the longest of those in the park and possibly in the world, at 290 feet long. Because slabs just keep falling from the thinnest section, the Park Service has closed the area immediately surrounding the arch, which I think wise as erosion due to humans and the elements has caused over 40 arches to collapse in the last 40 years.

Looks far more impressive in person!
 
From this point it is possible to continue along a primitive trail loop, to see five more large arches. For a combined distance of 7.2 miles this is the longest of maintained trails in the park, and takes hikers over slickrock and along narrow ledges to the famous Double O Arch with several other arches along the way. I hiked a modified version of this trail (and so missed the Dark Angel) but had the Fin Canyon to myself other than a few hares.

I interrupted a breakfast of prickly pear cactus
 
After a stop for Skyline Arch I skipped the Broken Arch 2 mile loop in exchange for a hike in the Wolfe Ranch area. Named after the Wolfe family that farmsteaded there, it is where the Salt Wash and famous Delicate Arch of the Utah license plate are located. As midday was approaching and I didn’t fancy the strenuous 3 mile hike, I opted for the shorter trail which took me up a ridge to a viewpoint separated from the arch by a steep canyon. A beautiful view, but in hindsight I should have hiked the other trail that takes one right to the base of the arch. The Arches website and other travel sites recommend saving the Delicate Arch trail for a sunset hike, and I believe this would be a fantastic experience, although one I will have to save for a later date.

Delicate Arch is on the left, for reference as to size look closely to see people all around the base
 
I took a short break in Moab for lunch and a stop at the post office, but then headed back into the park for the Fiery Furnace hike. Reservations must be made ahead and a fee of $10 paid for this guided tour, but it turned out to be the favorite part of my visit. Partly due to the blue skies which gave me a much better background to take photos than the overcast skies of the previous day, partly to the afternoon sun setting the red rocks ablaze, but mostly because of the unbelievable rock formations that provide a maze of towering pillars, arches, potholes and narrow passageways for our enjoyment. Ranger Mike was a perfect guide, teaching us about this unique place while simultaneously challenging us physically with a route filled with obstacles, all the while ensuring every last member of the group (from the seven year old girls to the not-so-outdoorsy adult to the experienced hiker) had a memorable and enjoyable experience. 

The moon rose while we were in the Firey Furnace
 
We emerged from the labyrinth with perfect timing as a storm was fast approaching across the desert, and the first drops of rain fell as I was still in the Park. The main deluge hit just north, but I was rewarded for my diligent driving with a spectacular double rainbow and fantastic cloud formations. Worth every penny of the $10 entrance fee into the Park and the six hours I spent driving, this is one of my favorite National Parks yet. I'm interested to also visit Canyonlands National Park, which is just next door, as well as Dead Horse Point State Park, although Utah also has the famous Bryce Canyon NP, Zion NP and Glen Canyon...

 

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

The Utah wedding

We had hardly been in the US for a month before time came to pack our suitcases again – this time for Chicago, where my parents live. My mother had been to visit us in Clermont-Ferrand when Mikus was born, but my father and grandmother had yet to meet him and due to some other travel plans this was the ideal time for me and the boys to spend a month with the family we had missed so much while living in France.

We settled in and let the boys pick up a routine, and then came the other travel plans I spoke of, a trip to Utah for a wedding. My parents, brother and sister Z were instrumental in making this trip a success, it was hard enough logistically figuring everything out much less emotionally. Still, somehow I found myself alone on a plane headed west, for the first time in two years not only sans children but a thousand miles away from them.

I met my husband in the airport where we rented a car and headed south. For him, a bachelor party awaited. I had decided soon after receiving the wedding invitation that I wasn’t going to lounge around and wait for the boys to be finished with whatever it was they were going to be doing, that I was going to have my own fun. So I continued southeast, to Arches National Park. I spent the next 30 hours hiking, camping, taking photographs and missing my two boys. More on the Park in a later post.


Dirty, tired and hungry I retraced my steps northwest to the town I had dropped Roberts off in. He had already departed with the groom-to-be and a majority of the bachelor party crew for Park City, central to the wedding festivities, but I stopped to visit one of the casualties in the hospital. (It isn’t a bachelor party without someone ending up in the hospital?) An ATV accident landed one friend in the hospital with a punctured lung, two collapsed lungs and a cracked rib, while another escaped with cuts and road rash; both were extremely lucky considering the circumstances.

It was after midnight when I finally rejoined the others in Park City where the rehearsal dinner had ended and I was by far the dirtiest and smelliest person in the hotel. Two showers later I was snoring away for my first uninterrupted night of sleep in three years. 1,300 miles away my parents were busy spoiling the two little interruptions silly…


The final couple of days passed just as quickly as the first two. Park City is the home to the Sundance Film Festival, and nearby ski resorts were major locations for the 2002 Winter Olympics. Further claims to fame include filming parts of “Dumb and Dumber” in the city, and being the original home to the Mrs. Fields Cookies chain. We got to check out Main Street for a quick brunch and ice cream the first day, and breakfast the second. A beautiful little tourist town, there was a Sunday market, plenty of dining options and miles of mountain biking, skiing and hiking trails within a very short drive.

But we were there for a wedding, and so on Saturday we headed to Salt Lake City. The sealing ceremony was to take place in the Salt Lake Temple in Temple Square. As we are not members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints we did not participate in the ceremony, but instead awaited the newlyweds in the beautiful temple grounds.


For those of us unable to see the marriage ceremony the couple had an exchange of rings in a ranch not far from Park City. In the soft afternoon light with a creek gurgling just next to us, we watched our friends say their vows and exchange rings.


Very simply, a beautiful ceremony and reception – the happiness of both bride and groom evident in every facial expression, word and movement. I am so very glad that they found one another, and I wish them happiness in their coming journey together. (Happiness, and children!) Because despite a missed flight and an extra three hours wait I was extremely delighted to see my two boys again, and reminded what a blessing it is to be not only a wife, but also a mother. Thanks to N & K for sharing their special day with us, it was a joy. And thanks to my family for caring for Lauris and Mikus and giving me a long-anticipated break, the extra sleep has recharged me for at least a day or two!

Friday, August 24, 2012

Packing for a move to temporary housing

It seems that I should be a professional by now at moving, as I’ve gone through the process enough times by now. Yet no matter how accustomed I believe myself to be to the transition process and all the little details that go with it, there are always a few things I forget, something that surprises me or that sense of déjà vu when I realize the exact same thing happened on the previous move.


We learned to pack for a few months on our previous two moves. The shipment with our belongings would have been delivered a month later, but as we were still in temporary housing and didn’t want to have to move all our belongings an additional time, we requested for the shipment to be stored until we found a more permanent home. In France Lauris managed to outgrow almost every single article of clothing I had packed during those six months we waited on our apartment, and I had to buy a winter coat as I somehow ended up in Clermont-Ferrand with nothing warmer than a fleece during the winter months. Before that, when we moved to South Carolina the first time, we made quite a few purchases for the temporary apartment as we searched for a house and awaited our belongings. So before the move I sent Roberts ahead with a few extra suitcases that then awaited us here, and although we might end up not using some of the things packed within them, we have had very little that we miss from the container that is currently somewhere on the Atlantic.


Here is a list of things to remember when making your big move!


For the kids:

Clothes a few sizes larger and for different seasons. Children’s clothes are expensive, as are shoes and coats. We learned the hard way on our last move, and this time we are prepared for autumn and for Mikus outgrowing his 9-12 month clothes at 7 months.

Toys: We packed Lauris’s backpack and the diaper bag with a few toys for the plane ride, but one of the suitcases we sent ahead of time was packed with toys, including a blow up play area for Mikus so I would have a place to put him down while he is learning to sit, and a doorway swing so that I can get things done. Soon he will have outgrown both, but we’ve gotten plenty of use out of both and they took up relatively little space. And for Lauris, having a multitude of cars, trains, puzzles and books has been wonderful, as it’s hot outside, so we’ve spent too much time in this apartment.

Extra sippy cups, plastic plates and utensils: Bringing these things has given Lauris a sense of continuity during the transition, and they really don’t take up that much space or weigh that much in your luggage. The apartment here had nothing suitable for a toddler or baby other than a travel bed for Mikus, so the dishes are used every day.


For the kitchen: (and these are some things that I wish I had brought on the previous three moves!

Kitchen knives: The temporary apartments we have stayed in have been furnished, and although it’s great that we don’t have to lug sheets, towels and plates in our carry-on luggage, some things just aren’t functional. Currently I’m using two Swiss army knives to cut everything from fruit and vegetables to meat and potatoes.

Measuring cup and spoons: They don’t take up a lot of space, and especially if you are switching countries (and therefore going from metric to feet) you might want them for your favorite recipes. Plus, the cup can always find a different use if the temporary apartment has one, for example it can be a sugar cup, or a vase, or even a bath toy for les petites.

Wooden spoon and a good spatula: If you’re planning on taking advantage of being in transition to frequently eat out, I wouldn’t worry as much about the kitchen stuff. However, with all the things to do during the day I would rather eat a nice dinner at home, and so we are cooking up some typical American comfort food in the evenings as a “welcome back to the US” (where you can buy things like mac and cheese, hot dogs, peanut butter and waffles!!!). I’m finding the pots here completely adequate, but the plastic spoons and spatulas have already failed. I remember the same thing happening in Clermont-Ferrand when we moved there, and I wish I had thought to pack a few more things for the kitchen, just to make life in transition a little bit easier.

Improvisation is key! No cookie rack, no problem! (Rack from oven)

For us:

An external hard drive: On our previous moves we’ve taken only laptops in our baggage, with a few jump drives that have files we think we’ll need on them. This time we took our external hard drive as well, and the access to all those documents that you didn’t think you would need has been great. The old spreadsheet that has those addresses I was looking for, the photographs from a few years back that I wanted for a blog post, and best of all, it serves as one more back-up in case something happens to the actual hard drive on the way across the ocean. This is the model we have that has served us well: 

All those electronics accessories: We’ve gotten somewhat used to carting around all our charging cords and memory sticks when we travel, but there are a few things definitely to be remembered to pack in your luggage, such as rechargeable batteries and charger, SD card reader, voltage adapters if you’re traveling overseas. I have a European voltage plug and an American plug for my iPad, and luckily I located the American plug and packed that, along with the correct camera battery charger.

Off-season items of clothing: Although I tried to think in layers when packing my suitcase, I was ill-prepared for a winter in France on a previous move. This time we sent ahead winter coats, hats and gloves, just in case. Although I really, really hope we’ve found our permanent lodging by wintertime!

Maps, language dictionaries, paperwork: Depending on where you are relocating, remember to take any books or maps that will help you with the local terrain. Whether simply a road map or maybe you are moving overseas and you need help with translation, the best resources are those that are available and easy to use. And second copies of all paperwork come in handy when things have been lost in the mail, lost in translation or simply lost. We traveled with medical records, birth certificates and translations of birth certificates in addition to our passports, driver’s license and other official paperwork. I also made sure to pack things like my American checkbook, store loyalty cards and some American money.

Fresh flowers make me happy! Notice the blender vase...

I asked my husband what/if anything I should add to the list. To sum up his response (and I believe he’s currently reading a WWII memoir): the immediate concerns during D-Day (after survival) were 1) to set up communications, 2) transportation inland and the 3) strategy/destination. Should I be concerned he was comparing our move to a wartime invasion?


Sooooo…. (and hubby, please correct me if I’ve translated this wrong!)

Communication: Keep your mobile handy. We had a charged trac-phone waiting for us, as our French cellphones don’t work in the US. A trac-phone is a great alternative to immediately signing a cellphone plan, as it is a small initial investment and you can buy additional minutes as needed.

Transportation: Have arrangements made to ensure you are mobile, a rental or borrowed car and a map if needed. If you do have a smart phone and access to mapping software and yellow pages, great, if not be prepared for possible snags with back-up plans.

Strategy/destination: Lay your groundwork previous to travel. Establish contacts that can help with anything from making a few phone calls for you or restaurant recommendations, to inviting you over for dinner or watching the children while you search for houses with a realtor. Transition can be unpleasant, but it doesn’t have to be. With proper preparations and planning it’s easy to make your temporary lodgings a home until you find a more permanent one.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Sunshine

My friend Barbara passed on some sunshine from her blog, Footprints in the Sand, to mine. As I’ve had my share of these fun, pass-it-on virtual hugs, I debated letting this one go, but I’ve changed my mind. I participate in a “Post of the Month Club” at Life on Planet Baby, and some of Jane’s recent posts have really resonated with me. More specifically, this post asks what/if anything has changed in blogging in recent years, as commercialism seems to be taking over the average blog. I’ve not been blogging for very long, but I do remember the big boost I got when I received my very first blog-award (I was called stylish!) So, if you're still reading...

Here's my little contribution of sunshine to blogland!


Accepting the Sunshine award requires that I answer these ten questions...

Favourite color? The blue eyes of my two little boys.
Favorite Animal? Most recently, a hedgehog. Not that we have one at home, or even that I’ve seen one recently. But I had to pick one, and the hedgehog beat out the owl and the polar bear this time!
Favorite Number? Three. The current ratio of males to females in this household.
Favorite Drink? A nice cold riesling. But something I can enjoy more often now that the closest Starbucks is just minutes (as opposed to hours) away, a decaf-mocha-frappuchino-no-whip. I believe it's simply because I could not have them in France that I want them now.
Facebook or Twitter? Facebook, although I wish I could stay away.
Your Passion? Not sure. This one seems to be an ever-evolving number of things. Hiking, reading and camping might have been replaced by mommy-ing and blogging. But traveling remains at the top of the list.
Giving or getting presents? Neither. Or both. One or the other.
Favorite Day? I have three: the day I got married, the day Lauris was born and the day Mikus was born. Corny? Yes. True? Also yes.
Favorite Flowers? Poppies. Sunflowers. Gladiolas. Roses. Maijpulkstenīši. Lavendar. Daisies.


I’ve decided I’m not very good at this 10 questions thing; I’d rather choose my own questions. So maybe the more important part of this post is the following list of 10 blogs I want to pass on some “sunshine” to? Maybe you want to take a look at some of them, maybe you have time to visit them all and say hi, but here is my attempt to spread a little sunshine:

The blog I mentioned earlier, Life on Planet Baby: Jane, thanks for all your recent posts, I wish you luck in your newest endeavours and I can’t wait for the next post of the month club!

And Here We Are... Ariana, I love your pictures, I love your chickens, and I hope you’ll accept this sunshine as a little token of my thanks for all your kind words and comments!

Coal Valley View: A Farmlet, 4 Kidlets and a Whippet: Mel, I’ve only been following for a very short while, but I sat down and read your back-posts for hours! An amazing trip, an amazing family, I look forward to reading more...

Diary of A Hobart Housewife: Romy – a mere au foyer! In Tasmania! One day I will travel to your part of the world, in the meantime I wish to read all about it.

Gina, (from The Baynhams), here’s some sunshine in honor of your seven years blogging! (And how is your meat tenderizer working?)

The Salad Days: Great Scott, it’s been five weeks since your cliffhanger of a post! Will some sunshine bring you back out? (And since I wrote this, she's baaaack! But with a plethora of news! Congratulations, and good luck!!!)

Still Life With Crockpot: Another regular writer for the Post of the Month Club, Jennie and I have been blogging for almost the same amount of time. Some rays of sunlight your way Jennie, for the sunshine you recently brought to your friend in Ohio.

Snaps and Blabs: On a journey around the world! Noticed in a recent post you were in search of the sun, well here’s some in return for taking me with on the next leg of your travels.

Mama Mzungu: Kim, I’m passing you on some sunshine in hopes that you can spread it around in your part of Kenya. I appreciate your honesty, keep it coming!

And last, but definitely not least, Grammy Goodwill! Grammy, you always have a kind word and comment for me, I hope these rays brighten your day as you so often brighten mine. Enjoy your retirement from blogland, and feel free to stop back in once in a while and say hi!



Monday, August 20, 2012

Rocamadour

The day before we were scheduled to fly out of Clermont-Ferrand we headed two hours southwest to meet up with the Tour de France. Since waiting for the cyclists and watching the race would only require a few hours, we decided to incorporate a trip to Rocamadour in our itinerary. The village has attracted visitors because of the unique setting in a gorge of a tributary of the Dordogne river, but also is well known for its historical monuments and sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin Mary.


Rocamadour and the Dordogne river

The view of the village is most spectacular, and so we stopped in L’Hospitalet to eat lunch while enjoying the panorama of Rocamadour and the valley below. The restaurant had prime real estate with a direct view of the cliffside village, and as we ate on the terrace I could photograph away at will while enjoying in comfort the company and food. We could pick out some of the more famous buildings, for example the church of Notre Dame containing a wooden Black Madonna reputed to have been carved by Saint Amadour, the founder of the ancient sanctuary. The terrace next to the church (Plateau of St Michel) was intended as a place for the pilgrims to gather as that is where a fragment of a broken sword is stuck in the wall. Legend has it the piece is from the sword of Durendal, once wielded by the legend Roland during the reign of Charlemagne. Not visible to us of course was the subterranean church of St. Amadour which contains relics of the saint. Most obvious is a château on the very crest of the cliff, built in the Middle Ages and intended as a defense of the sanctuaries.

Our lunch table with Rocamador in the background

L’Hospitalet  has several viewing areas with parking nearby to provide ample opportunity for viewing Rocamadour from different angles and vantage points. We dallied there too long and became pressed for time, so instead of descending into the valley we turned around and headed back to the highway where I hoped to find a good viewing spot to watch the Tour de France go by. We were glad to arrive in Cressensac when we did as otherwise we would have missed the sponsor trucks (which along with the crowd and atmosphere were half the fun!), but we did regret not seeing Rocamadour up close when we had the chance. Friends who have visited said the sights were worth the climb (stairs connect the château all the way to the valley below), and maybe someday we’ll have the opportunity to explore the buildings built into the 400 foot-tall cliffs. However our visit to the area served a reminder that you can’t always do everything!


It was a long day of driving, with 2.5 hours to reach Rocamadour, 30 minutes to find an intersection with the Tour de France, and then 2 hours return trip to Clermont-Ferrand. As we believed this to be our final day in France we thought it well worth the trip, but I would encourage visitors to make this into a weekend trip, exploring the region further and staying at one of the many gîtes in the area. By the time we arrived back in Clermont the adrenaline from the Tour de France atmosphere had all but dissipated, but the excitement at having witnessed something so essentially French lingered. Weeks later we watched Bradley Wiggins win the gold in the 2012 London Olympic Men’s Individual Time Trial cycling event, and were instantly transported back to that country road. Hundreds of people lining the roads, waiting patiently to witness that sudden whiz of cyclists, bicycles and support vehicles, en route to Tour de France glory. Then in a flash it’s over, and the quiet country road is still once again.

Stage 18, in Cressensac: the stage winner Mark Cavendish is visible in the white team Sky jersey

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...