Nine years

Robert, tik daudzas krāšņas, saulainas dienas mums kopā!

Tā arī ir bijuši liela tiesa mūsu deviņi gadi; siltas pavasara dienas pastaigas puķu pilnos laukos. Tomēr arī ieķerās kāda ērce vai makšķerēšanas tārpa āķis kāzu kleitas plīvurā, bet laimīgā kārtā varu lūgt tavu palīdzību draudus atšķetināt – un varam kopā makšķerēt ar mazām nelaimītēm ķerot lielos basus.

Laimīgu devīto kāzu jubilēju!

A fascination with aviation in Florida's panhandle

If you’ve ever driven along the coast of the Florida panhandle then you know that there is more than one military installation in the western portion of the state. Tyndall, Eglin, Choctaw, Pensacola… on a visit to any one of the big towns you’ll probably see signs directing you to the bases, and you’ll hear a variety of military aircraft flying over on maneuvers and training. However, if you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of an airplane you don’t have to wait with a view to the sky; you can just head to one of two aviation museums in the panhandle for an adventure in flight and history!

Air Force Armament Museum, Eglin Air Force Base

On our way from Panama City and St. Andrews State Park to Pensacola we stopped at the Air Force Armament Museum (AFAM) near Destin. Located on Eglin Air Force Base, the AFAM is dedicated solely to the collection, preservation and exhibition of artifacts and memorabilia associated with Air Force Armament and its delivery platforms. From World War I to today's high tech planes and bombs, aviation and history buffs alike can enjoy an extensive collection of aircraft as well as the history and science behind the weaponry and airplanes.

Inside the enormous hall you’ll find four aircraft, cockpit simulators and the museum. Exhibits include the “Early Years” as well as sections on the Korean, Vietnam and Gulf Wars. It was intimidating seeing the missiles and bombs up close, and interesting to see the progression of guns, special ops and other equipment over time.

Outside on the surrounding complex are 30 displays of vintage military aircrafts and other equipment, including the fastest plane ever built - the SR-71 Blackbird. We recognized multiple airplanes from the Collings Foundation Wings of Freedom and the Commemorative Air Force Fighters & Bombers tours in Greenville, however there were many airplanes, helicopters, armored vehicles and drones that the kids and I had never seen up close.

The B-17 bomber

The museum is open daily from 9:30am to 4:30pm, Monday - Saturday (except on federal holidays), and admission to the museum is free. I would suggest exploring the outdoor exhibits in the morning when it is cooler, or on an overcast day, while the museum can offer a reprieve from the Florida sun or something to do on a rainy day.

Air Force Armament Museum website here.

The Sikorsky MH-53

National Naval Aviation Museum, Naval Air Station Pensacola

During our time in Pensacola we spent one day on the Naval Air Station side with stops at the Pensacola Lighthouse, Fort Barrancas, and the National Naval Aviation Museum (NNAM). The NNAM is enormous, housing more than 150 historic aircraft and an array of exhibits, artwork and memorabilia documenting historic figures and events in Naval Aviation. 350,000 square feet of exhibit space makes it one of the largest aviation museums in the world.

Located just a few miles from the beach where the Navy’s first air station was established in 1914, the Museum is adjacent to Forrest Sherman Field, home to Training Air Wing Six and the Navy’s Blue Angels who can often be seen training overhead.

From the record-setters that explored the South Pole and first crossed oceans, to battle-scarred veterans from Midway to Iraq – NNAM has it all. A 4D Blue Angels Experience, flight simulators and a Naval Aviation Memorial Giant Screen Theater offer additional adventures (for tickets prices see the NNAM website). The boys particularly enjoyed the “Kiddie Hawk” area, modeled to look like the island of an aircraft carrier and featuring items that are found on a real ship.

Admission to NNAM is also free (although this does not include the simulators and theater experiences I mentioned above), and the Museum is open 9am to 5pm daily. It is important to note that visitors 16 years and older must have valid photo identification, and if you don’t possess a Department of Defense ID you must enter and exit the Naval Air Station Pensacola through the West Gate off Blue Angel Parkway. On some days there are special events including Blue Angels visits (there was a naval wedding on the day we visited), so you might want to check out the schedule of events.

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While neither museum compared to the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in size, they were both among the boys’ favorite destinations on our Florida panhandle trip. From close-up looks at some of coolest airplanes ever made, to the chance to clamber into cockpits – the kids just ate it up. I found the insight into aviation history interesting, although standing next to the first airplane to cross the Atlantic by air (NC-4) or the SBD Dauntless Bureau Number 2106 that survived the Battle of Midway offered its own thrill. There is nothing to make you feel quite as tiny as being in the shade of a B-52!

The historic NC-4

Whatever your reason for heading to Florida’s panhandle, I suggest a visit to one of these two museums. Admission to both sites is free, but the experience – priceless.

A rainy day on the Gulf Shore at St. Andrews State Park

The Florida State Parks system is pretty incredible… 175 parks, trails and historic sites are scattered around the state, providing public access to some of the most beautiful beaches, scenic natural areas, and historic landmarks in the Southeast. The next stop on our Florida panhandle exploration was St. Andrews State Park, part of the barrier island chain that protects Panama City.

The park was originally opened in 1951 with 302 acres along the Gulf Shore. Now more than 1,200 acres, the area has a long history of human presence, from the Native Americans who collected shellfish from the surrounding waters, to the WWII military reservation. We awoke to a steady drizzle, but decided to head to St. Andrews regardless in hopes the rain would taper off and allow us the opportunity to explore.

As often is our habit, we started off in the Visitor Center. Because of the weather we had it pretty much to ourselves, and after watching a movie and admiring the dozens of species of shells found in the park, a ranger introduced us to the resident corn snake.

Our original plan was to take the ferry out to Shell Island, originally Lands End Peninsula but separated when Gulf-Bay Pass was dredged in the 1930s. Shell Island is reputed to be a stretch of beach as peaceful and unspoiled as can be found in Florida, with a plethora of shells to be found and seabird & sea turtle nests in the dunes. However it was not meant to be; the ferry wasn’t running due to the weather, and we wouldn’t be able to stick around for another day in hopes of a sunnier day.

peek-a-boo!

Our perseverance was rewarded though, as the near-empty park was our playground for the morning. We donned our raincoats and headed to Gator Lake trail for a short hike, and had barely left the car when we saw our first alligator. For the less adventurous, a pier provides a safe vantage point over the lake, while those looking to stretch their legs will find scenic lakeside views on a short loop trail. Heron Pond Trail is the second option, located near the ferry boat pier. It traverses a flatwood pine forest, leading past the replica turpentine still; the Cracker Turpentine Still was donated in 1963 by the Lewis Family and relocated from Bristol. Both Gator Lake and Heron Pond trails provide visitors with multiple wildlife viewing opportunities, from the resident alligators to a variety of waterfowl & wading birds. Opposite the parking area for the Gator Lake trail (which is home to a great blue heron rookery) is Buttonbush Marsh, which can be easily accessed by an overlook on the north portion of the loop road, and here you’ll see dozens of species of birds feeding and nesting.

After a snack we headed out to the beach, the rain slowly clearing as we crossed over the boardwalk out to the grey waters of the Gulf. At the very tip of the peninsula is the Gun Mount Pavilion, home to one of the original gun mounts that overlooked the pass back in the 1940s. A jetty protects a beach area facing Shell Island, while a long stretch of white sands connect to the Gulf Fishing Pier. We walked, searched for shells, marveled at the beauty of the dunes rising over the beach and tried to stay warm in the Gulf winds.

The recreational options seem endless: hiking, biking, boating, swimming, camping, fishing, picnicking, snorkeling and surfing… Despite (or maybe in spite?) of the rain we had gotten a taste of St. Andrews State Park and the white sand beaches of the Gulf barrier islands, and luckily there would be more opportunities to enjoy the waters in the days to come…

Lighthouses of the Forgotten Coast

My middle son is the lighthouse aficionado, the one who always says yes to climb to the top of the many lighthouses we’ve encountered in our travels. Our recent trip to Florida’s panhandle was no different, and although Lauris joined us on one of our climbs, it was mostly up to Mikus and me to scale these historic beacons and report back to the rest of the crew.

View over St. Joseph Bay including smoke from prescribed burn on T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

Our trip started on the east end of the panhandle, and on a day trip to Wakulla Springs State Park we were delighted to find a brochure detailing the “Lighthouse Driving Tour of Florida’s Forgotten Coast.” First on the tour is St. Mark’s Lighthouse, the second oldest in Florida. Built in 1842, the tower stands on the shores of Apalachee Bay at the mouth of the St. Marks River. My first visit to the lighthouse was in 2005 during a visit to St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, and everything looks much the same as it did then. 85 steps to the lantern room, 4 foot thick tower walls, a whitewashed exterior. The tower is not currently open to climbing, although the Keeper’s House is open the first Saturday of most months from 1-4pm.

St. Mark's Lighthouse

Continuing west on the tour route we drove through Carrabelle to the Crooked River Lighthouse. Open to visitors Saturdays and Sundays 1-4pm, we missed our chance to climb. However the 103ft iron and steel construction is not your typical lighthouse, and we were glad we didn’t skip turning into the public park. For 120 years the lighthouse was a guiding light over the pass between Dog and St. George Islands, decommissioned only in 1995 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A bicycle path and picnic area are also located in the park, along with a replica Keeper’s House which serves as a museum and gift shop on the weekends.

Crooked River Lighthouse

Three beacons on Dog Island were destroyed over the years, as well as three on St.George Island. The Cape St. George Light is the fourth reconstruction, located at the very center of the Island just as visitors arrive over the Bryant Patton Bridge. The first lighthouse was built near West Pass but was dismantled after being damaged by storms, and reconstructed a year later in 1848. That one fell during a hurricane in 1851, and was replaced by a third lighthouse a year later and further inland. This lighthouse served for 153 years, but ultimately succumbed to erosion, collapsing in October of 2005. Volunteers salvaged over 22,000 original bricks, and in 2008 the Cape St. George Light was successfully rebuilt and opened to the public. A replica of the Keeper’s House functions as a museum and gift shop; the lighthouse is open daily except Thursdays, hours vary by season.

Cape St. George Light

The final lighthouse on the Forgotten Coast tour is the Cape San Blas Lighthouse. I vacationed on Cape San Blas over 13 years ago and had visited the lighthouse then; I warned Mikus that we would not be able to visit this one, as the drive out to Cape San Blas involves a trip all the way out on St. Joseph’s peninsula. Wasn’t I surprised to see the lighthouse just a block off of our route while passing through Port St. Joe on the mainland! It turns out that the 130 year old structure was originally built at the tip of the cape to replace multiple destroyed brick lighthouses, and was only moved to Port St. Joe in 2014. I urge you to visit this website for the full history of Lights on Cape San Blas; it seems that the Cape is cursed when it comes to lighthouses, as even the ship that was carrying the new lighthouse sank on its way to the Cape and the material had to be salvaged from the water (not to mention the Civil War attack the Light suffered in 1862!). Mikus and I happily paid a small fee in the historic Maddox House Welcome Center before climbing the 138 steps for a grandiose view of St. Joseph Bay. In the meantime the rest of the boys paid a visit to the small beach, and before long we joined them for a final hurrah on the sands of the Forgotten Coast before heading on to Panama City.

Cape San Blas Lighthouse

This wasn’t the end of our panhandle lighthouse experience, as we would continue our adventures on the Emerald Coast, including a climb up the Pensacola Lighthouse. However it was a fitting end to our time on the Forgotten Coast and as we continued west we took one last look at the Cape San Blas Light, now just a tiny mark on the horizon.

A few points on logistics when visiting the lighthouses:

The tour brochure estimates that if combining a visit to all four the trip would take 6 hours, allowing 1 hour at each lighthouse.

Remember there are height requirements to climb the lighthouses, please check the individual websites for regulations, hours and fee information.

St. Marks Lighthouse: www.stmarkslighthouse.net

Crooked River Lighthouse: www.crookedriverlighthouse.org

Cape St. George Light: www.stgeorgelight.org

Cape San Blas Lighthouse: www.capesanblaslight.org

In the footprints of Hernando De Soto

We might have been in the Tampa area to catch up with some old friends and get in some time on the beach, but the temptation to explore led us to another site steeped in history – De Soto National Memorial.

There were others that came before Columbus, and there would be others after, Europeans marching across North American to explore and colonize the ‘New World.’ Hernando De Soto was a Spanish soldier, granted the license to explore La Florida by Charles V of Spain. He arrived in Havana in 1538, sailed to Florida in 1539 with 622 soldiers, and landed near Tampa Bay to spend the next three years trekking across the Southeast. Leaving disease and devastation in their wake, De Soto’s expedition sought gold and riches… What they found instead were hundreds of villages, but the consequences for their inhabitants were disastrous. Ironically it is the information about the Native Americans who lived here before us that is valuable to historians today, although the expedition was trailed by tragedy, the resulting social dislocation destroying the rich culture and traditions they were observing and recording.

De Soto burned his way north through Florida, then crossed into Georgia up to Ocmulgee. Upon reaching Cofitachequi in SC many of De Soto’s men were ready to settle. However, they were pushed on in search of gold and glory, and after cutting across to Coosa, TN they turned south, threading through Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas. Three years after landing in Florida, Hernando De Soto died of sickness and was buried in the Mississippi River. The remainder of his expedition stumbled back to Mexico, arriving at Pánuco River in 1543.

A good place to start your explorations of the National Monument is at the Visitor Center. We found the 20 minute film a little on the tragic side for young children, but the exhibits and artifacts on display offer insight into the expedition, Florida in the 1500s, the Natives who lived there, and the consequences of the excursion.

We opted to hike the 2 mile Memorial Trail, passing through a mangrove swamp out to the Manatee River. The first point of interest is the ruin of a tabby house. Built from a mixture of lime, sand and shell mined from the local prehistoric shell middens that once lined the shoreline, the structure is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Once attributed to the 1843 homestead of shipping merchant William H. Shaw, recent archeological surveys suggest that the site may be related to the freed black community of Angola, and date back as far as 1812.

From De Soto Point we headed south along the coast, eventually reaching the Holy Eucharist Monument and the Memorial Cross. Both were impressive, but the boys were by far more impressed with the beach.

The trail eventually emerges to the road, and we followed it back north to the parking area and Visitor Center. A highlight in this central area is the Replica Spanish Camp, complete with reproductions of Spanish armor and weapons. Modeled after an Indian village that was captured by De Soto to serve as a base camp, the demonstrations on everything from weapons to cooking were fascinating for adults as well as the children.

The large stone monument in the center commemorates the expedition. It was placed by the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America, and today is significant as the mark of the beginning of the De Soto Trail, the historic route of the conquistador’s expedition through the Florida Native American territories in his quest for fame and fortune.

If you are headed to De Soto National Memorial from May through October, be sure to sign up for the free 1.5 hour Ranger led kayak tour. Spots on the tour are first come, first serve, but they do take reservations – call (941) 792-0458 to reserve your seat. Tours run on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings at 9:00am, and include all your equipment (2 person kayaks, paddles and personal floatation devices).  Imagine seeing Florida the way the first Europeans saw it – blue waters ending at beaches lined with thickets of mangroves, gumbo-limbo trees shading the swampy understory.

The National Memorial is an expressive reminder of the tragic history of Americas. However, it also serves as a showcase of the natural beauty of the region; the coastal habitats are home to a wide variety of wildlife, and their range from aquatic to upland forest showcase the area’s diverse animal life. In terms of recreation, “The Cove” is a popular temporary anchorage for small boats, the beaches are well-known for not being too crowded, and the annual schedule of events allows for all types of interests.

I hope you enjoyed my National Park week series! Next week we’ll be back up in the FL panhandle, exploring the coast in an epic trip that took us from Tarzan’s Wakulla Springs State Park all the way to Pensacola… I hope you’ll join us in our adventure!