The Swamp Rabbit - from Furman to Travelers Rest

It’s about 3 miles from Furman University to downtown Travelers Rest riding on the Swamp Rabbit Trail: the perfect weekend challenge on a warm, sunny day! From the Duncan Chapel Rd. intersection to Center St. is actually 3.5, but if a 7 mile round-trip is too much for the shorter legs in your peloton, there are plenty of spots along the way to park & ride – this is a very customizable stretch of trail (and less than 7 miles from downtown Greenville for those cycling sans children).

The parking lot at Duncan Chapel Rd. is convenient as it has space for more than a handful of cars. The old rail car to the side of the trail pays homage to the trail’s origins as a rail line connecting Greenville with Travelers Rest, and the trailhead features a convenient map, water fountain and vending machines. A southern gateway to the University, the trail runs adjacent to the softball fields for the first bit before crossing a small creek and running parallel to the University service buildings – a slightly less scenic section.

from left: view of the softball fields, Furman entrance off Duncan Chapel Rd., service buildings

Almost a ½ mile in, you’ll pass a gate through which you can access the road that leads over the impoundment of Swan Lake to the parking lot at the Trone Student Center. If you are looking for a lengthier route, the 1.5 mile lake hike loop starts at the student center and features scenic views of the clock tower and the lake, other points of interest including the rose garden, the Place of Peace, the Susan Shi Garden and the Thoreau Cabin. There are also a disc-golf course and public restrooms accessible from one of the three entrances onto campus from the trail.

Soon after passing the 26 ½ mile marker there is a pleasant little rest area with benches and landscaping. Carl Kohrt Drive is just beyond, with a gravel pull-off that fits less than 5 cars but can provide another spot to easily jump on the trail. We opted to park there on our most recent trip, as the round trip total was brought down to 5 miles: much more manageable for the two petit cyclists. The Furman trail system is also accessible from this point, which marks the northern boundary of the University.

Leaving Furman behind, we continued north and soon crossed Roe Ford Rd. Another dirt parking lot (this one with space for a handful of cars) and then a wide-open section that is home to a wildflower garden and footprints of the old warehouses that once stood on the spot, Paris Mountain visible in the distance.

After passing the 26 mile marker, the trail crosses under West Duncan Rd. and enters a section of the old rail bed that cuts through the terrain.  A small stream was running along the side – filmy, brown water led me to question its source. Otherwise this section is beautiful, and in the spring the canopy will form a tunnel to shade the trail. This stretch is also home to Chris and Kelly’s HOPE Fitness Park, opposite the Reedy River Baptist Church Pocket Park. While the pocket park is a simple bench in a pastoral setting, the fitness park has a variety of features allowing for an extensive work out, and is open from noon until sunset. Named in the memory of two brothers that lost their lives to addiction, the park was created by the Chris and Kelly’s Hope Foundation. This philanthropic organization supports programs helping teenagers and young adults beat addiction, and the White Horse Academy (a residential treatment program for boys ages 13-17 that it sponsors) can be seen up the hill.

We passed a cemetery and then entered a heavily forested section with fencing on either side protecting riders against a rather steep drop-off. Just before Old Buncombe Rd. there are the remains of an old structure down on the west side, the walls barely standing in their battle against time. On the north side of the intersection is a “Ghost Bike,” a memorial to cyclists killed on Greenville County Roads.

From Old Buncombe to Edwards St. is quiet forest, and it is rather suddenly that we emerged into the sunshine and Travelers Rest at the intersection. The gas station and TR History Museum are on opposite sides of Edwards Street, and then just as suddenly we were back in the woods. Although the trail runs parallel to Main St. for the next ½ mile, it is strategically shielded from the road by a thin strip of forest, punctuated only by brief glimpses of the town. A small trailhead signifies the proximity to Trailblazer Park and the TR Farmers Market, access provided by means of a staircase leading off to the west.

In downtown Travelers Rest the trail runs right next to Main St. The Spring Park driving range comes first, and then we passed plenty of familiar spots including the Whistle Stop, the Forest Coffeehouse (which has a prime outdoor people-watching area), Sidewall Pizza and the Café at Williams Hardware.

from left: the Whistle Stop, the Forest Coffeehouse and Cafe at Williams Hardware

 At the Center St. /Main St. intersection, the trail crosses over to the east side of Main Street via the pedestrian crossing. This is the Sunrift Adventures/Tandem Creperie and Coffehouse corner, a perfect spot to turnaround (after lunch of course!) The posted distance to Furman from Church Street (just a block south) is 9.1 miles to downtown Greenville, a reasonable distance for a longer adventure…

We stopped a little more frequently on the way south, taking a break in the fitness park before returning to our car. Final verdict; this section of trail has it all, from access to parks, restrooms and restaurants, plus the bonus of proximity to the University. Although the trail is narrow at points (and the portion running through Furman is a bit bumpy), it is more forested than the section we are used to that runs from Falls Park to Swamp Rabbit Cafe. We’ll be back for another trek, possibly pushing north from TR to see how far we can make it!

Swamp Rabbit Station

An empty boxcar sits on overgrown tracks in an industrial area of Berea, but there’s plenty of traffic passing by – only it’s of the two-wheel, self-powered variety. The railcar is part of Swamp Rabbit Station, a pocket park off the Greenville Health System Swamp Rabbit Trail - the multi-use pathway that has cemented Greenville’s reputation of an outdoorsy, bike-friendly town.

The boxcar sits not far from where the Swamp Rabbit Trail intersects Sulphur Springs Road. When Greenville County first purchased the old railroad it was sitting on a siding, and knowing it would be near-impossible to move once the tracks were removed it was moved closer to the road where it would be accessible for removal.

A museum in the Midwest expressed interest in the 70-year old boxcar, but as those plans never came to fruition the county moved in to bigger and better ideas. One idea was that the old rail car could be turned into a snack bar/coffee shop catering to those using the trail – check out this Swamp Rabbit Station video.

The business never materialized; instead, the train car was incorporated into a 2012 Leadership Greenville project of creating a pocket park with para-cyclist turnaround. Finished in 2014, the park features a water fountain, benches, bike repair station and landscaping. The boxcar was renovated to remove asbestos and abate lead, painted green, and the entrances were boarded up for safety.

Last year Motive Power & Equipment Solutions refurbished and donated a 1942 locomotive to the pocket park. The 150-hp, now-yellow locomotive had originally been manufactured for the U.S. Navy, and together with the green boxcar represent Berea High's school colors.

What’s next for the pocket park? The initial hope was to invigorate the surrounding Berea community, making the intersection a community gathering spot and on/off point for the trail. Although that plan might not be progressing as quickly as hoped, the park remains a convenient spot to meet friends on the trail, take a break from cycling, or just explore a piece of rail history. Although passing years have brought the shift  away from the days of rail transport shaping the growth of the region, the old boxcar sits in witness to the new transformation of the Upstate: into an outdoor enthusiast’s playground and a cycling mecca. 

Pearson's Falls near Saluda, NC

The recent trips to North Carolina – Lake Lure, Chimney Rock, Charlotte and vicinity– have reminded me how close the Upstate is to the state line. It seems some scenic adventures in our neighboring state haven’t really popped up on our radar because, well, they’re in a whole other state. Such is the case with Pearson’s Falls. An invitation from friends to join them on a short waterfall hike brought us to the Pearson’s Falls Waterfall and Botanical Preserve near Saluda, NC, just an hour away from Greenville.

The trip from Spartanburg is less than 40 miles, and although it’s fewer miles if you’re headed up from Greenville, it will take 10-15 minutes longer as you’ll be on small roads the whole way up. Old Highway 25 cuts the corner off, taking you past the North Saluda Reservoir and bypassing Tuxedo, NC – not only a straighter shot, but one of the most beautiful roads in the Upstate. On sunny days be prepared to share the road with cyclists, and once you get closer to Saluda get ready for some stunning mountain views.

Pearson’s Falls has been owned and maintained by the Tryon Garden Club since 1931. As it is a privately owned property there is an admission fee (however nominal), and because the glen has set operating hours visitors should check the gate schedule before visiting. We timed our visit to arrive soon after opening, allowing for max time outdoors before having to head back to pick Lauris up from school. Following the gravel Pearson Falls Road south straight from Saluda is the easiest way to get there, although you can take the paved 176 around to the paved end of Pearson Falls Road near the North Pacolet River bridge. Upon arriving we paid the upbeat gate attendant (“you’re my first visitors of the morning!”) and parked in the small parking area before setting off on the gravel trail to the falls.

The preserve is advertised as a botanical, bird and wildlife sanctuary, and encompasses 268 acres of native forest surrounding Colt Creek. Many of the larger trees near the trail are labeled, and the resulting mix – tulip poplar, beech, maple and buckeye – present a typical cove forest type. Being a rather chilly February morning with three exuberant children along for the hike we didn’t see any wildlife; on the other hand there were plenty of spots of snow, ice, icicles and frost for the boys to poke, prod and pick-up.

Vilis walked the whole 1/3 mile to the falls by himself, although I had a firm grasp on his hand as the trail ascends rock steps which can be uneven or narrow in spots. With picnic tables and benches providing ample rest spots along the trail, we could easily have spent hours getting to the falls if we had listened to Mikus’s suggestions on where to stop for snacks…

Several small cascades along the way provided a lovely sound of running water until we reached the lower falls, a wide ledge with about a four foot drop. Just behind are the main falls, a 90 ft. waterfall that cascades down layers of rock to reach the narrow creekbed and boulders below.

The falls are named for engineer Charles William Pearson who scouted the mountains for Southern Railroad. In 1931 the Tryon Garden Club bought the property to protect it from development, and today it is designated as a North Carolina National Heritage Site of the Blue Ridge National Heritage Area, a North Carolina Birding Trail Site, and is in the Smithsonian Institution Archives of American Gardens.

Although we had packed a lunch the lure of lunch in Saluda proved too great to overcome. There were several tempting options, and having picked Wildflour Bakery (“All we knead is love”) we were soon seated with delicious sandwiches in hand. Well, the moms had sandwiches – the kids chose sticky buns!

A morning spent outdoors meant a couple of passengers dozed off in the back of the car on the way home. We made it to school pick-up with plenty of time to spare, and the afternoon was spent enjoying the sunshine in the backyard. Final verdict on Pearson’s Falls? Yet another magnificent waterfall that is going on the list to hike in the spring! 

The Rocky Broad Riverwalk

The town of Chimney Rock is a miniature Gatlinburg (gateway to Great Smoky Mountain National Park), complete with putt putt golf, a gem mine, backcountry outfitters, inns, lodges & tiki bars. That’s not to say it is without charm; the tiny town has its own unique appeal, from the picturesque main street with its backdrop of forested mountains rising up on both sides, to the pictorial view over the Rocky Broad River.

On a wintry Valentine’s Day we weren’t the only ones checking out the mountain town. The previous day had been sunny, and although the wind had a bite to it the exposed heights of Chimney Rock State Park were bearable. This particular day the sun was obscured by clouds, and a repeat visit up the side of the mountain was the last thing on our minds, temperatures having dropped by at least 15 degrees. After our explorations of the nearby town of Lake Lure, fingers and toes were chilled. Although it’s just a short walk from the Lake Lure Flowering Bridge to the main drag of Chimney Rock, we elected to drive and were soon parking in front of a store called Gold Rush, so very fitting to the atmosphere of this mountain town.

Our first order of business was lunch. Roberts had been craving a burger for most of the trip and so we opted for Riverwatch Deli & Grill. A homey, diner-like front room opens up into a larger back room with a bar and more tables, although on our visit the rear area was definitely more chilly. The boys absolutely demolished their kids meals (we just don’t feed them at home…), and my Smokehouse burger (bourbon smoked bacon, cheddar, bbq sauce and grilled onions) soon disappeared as well. A little greasy, but just what the doctor ordered on a day spent outdoors. As far as sides go I should have stuck with fries, but instead ordered the baked potato salad, tempted with the mention of bacon – of which I had plenty of on my burger. I’ll live. The beer menu was impressive for it being off-season, a who’s who of area microbreweries including Highland, Green Man (I recommend the porter), Hi-Wire, French Broad, Catawba, Pisgah, Oskar Blues, Deep River and Foothills.

Along with warmer temperatures will come access to the rear deck from which there’s a memorable view of the Rocky Broad River. Once we had finished our meals we bundled up and headed out that way, descending several flights of stairs down to the Rocky Broad Riverwalk. The 1/8-mile trail leads along a natural walkway, with stone bridges taking you over to a bar in the center of the river and back. The trail starts next to the Chimney Rock Park Ticket Office and goes under the park access road along the river, with access to the riverfront shops & restaurants until it curves back up to the street beyond the Harley Davidson Store.

Glaciers formed the Hickory Nut Gorge billions of years ago, carving out the deep gouge in the landscape and leaving behind the Rocky Broad River bed… aptly named. Between the stone bridges, large boulders, pebbles in rushing water and endless rock-throwing opportunities, we could have explored all day – if not for the below-freezing temperatures. Were it summer we would all have been wading in the swift current, but on a winter day even a wet glove would have signaled the end of our trip. The fact of the matter is; any season, this spot is magical, maybe just a Frozen kind of magical in the winter! Eventually both parents were tired and cold, but it took quite a bit of coaxing and bribery to get the kids back to the car despite almost numb noses and toes – it’s that perfect mix of running water and rocks, with a hint of danger in paradise. Final verdict: only an hour from Greenville, we’ll be back soon – two gloved thumbs up!

A colorful mural near one of the entrances to the Riverwalk, Chimney Rock visible in the background

A little "Dirty Dancing" at the Lake Lure Inn

Lake Lure officials were approached in 1986 by film producers wanting to film an entire movie in the town. The proposal was turned down, as certain landmarks would have been completely reconstructed. I’ll bet those officials were kicking themselves later when that film went on to become a top-grossing movie and prompt three decades in home video sales… the movie in question being Dirty Dancing. Eventually the 1987 classic starring Patrick Swayze and Jennifer Grey was partially filmed in Lake Lure, although primary filming was conducted at Mountain Lake Lodge in Pembroke, VA.

source here

Set in the fictitious Kellerman’s Resort in the Catskills, Frances “Baby” Houseman falls in love with dance instructor Johnny Castle. The lake and river scenes were mainly filmed around the western end of the lake (near the marina), while the famous dance practice scenes were shot on a specially-constructed platform in the lake. It turns out the water can be chilly in October… Good thing for Patrick it wasn't a cold day in February!

Located just down the road from the marina is the 1927 Lake Lure Inn & Spa. With a backdrop of mountains, the rooms overlook the Town Center Walkway and offer views of Lake Lure and Morse Park. Having undergone an extensive renovation in 2005, visitors have a choice of guest rooms, suites and bungalows, and features include a spa, restaurant and lounge.

Not only did the actors, producers and other staff stay at the 1927 Lake Lure Inn while filming in 1986, but some of the restaurant scenes were filmed in the Inn’s Veranda Restaurant and the mirrored practice room is now Roosevelt Hall. There’s a nod to the fame Dirty Dancing has brought with a Swayze Suite (though the actor actually slept in Room 205), a Jennifer Grey Suite, Baby's Bungalow and Johnny's Cabin, but other famous guests who have stayed at the hotel include Franklin D. Roosevelt, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Jimmy & Rosalynn Carter on their honeymoon.

Today the hotel is filled with antiques, paintings and old photographs dotting the walls. In the lobby is a rare collection of antique, upright disc music boxes, including an authentic Regina, Symphonion, Polyphon, Stella and Fortuna. The keys on a player piano depress as if touched by a ghost, while in the corner an old Badenia stands, behind whose closed cabinet doors can be found a full orchestra: piano, violin and cello pipes, orchestra bells, snare drums, a Chinese cymbal and xylophone. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the décor nostalgic and stately.

The scenes of Swayze and friends dancing in their cabins were filmed not far away at the former Chimney Rock Camp for Boys. While visitors to Lake Lure can still step into the movie in the Inn’s Veranda Restaurant, they can’t visit the camp cabins as the land is now a gated residential development called Firefly Cove. The 54-acre site's 41 plots initially cost $600,000 - $1.5 million... and that's just the lot! The people who built their house where the dining hall used to stand (and Baby takes her first dance steps with Johnny) are Dirty Dancing fans, and actually incorporated the hall's foundation stone into the design of their home.

On the east end of the lake on the Lake Lure Golf & Beach Resort golf course is another site that was used in the film. There is a sign at the hole where Baby asks her father for money for an abortion for Johnny's dance partner, but be prepared to play a round of golf to see it. The steps on which Baby practices her moves are still on a hillside somewhere in the area as well.

Patrick Swayze died of pancreatic cancer in 2009, but his legacy lives on; not only in the Dirty Dancing Festival that takes places annually in Lake Lure, but also in the rooms of The 1927 Lake Lure Inn & Spa. Dirty Dancing fans should not miss this corner of Lake Lure in their explorations, however it doesn’t take a movie buff to appreciate the historical and aesthetic qualities of this grand hotel. And hey, if it’s Valentine’s Day? Make sure you sing a few bars! (I’ve Had) The Time of My Life…

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Baby: Me? I'm scared of everything. I'm scared of what I saw, I'm scared of what I did, of who I am, and most of all I'm scared of walking out of this room and never feeling the rest of my whole life the way I feel when I'm with you.