The bogs of Kemeri National Park

Ķemeri National Park contains one of the largest moss bogs along the Latvian coast. Located only 30 miles from the capital city Rīga and not far from the popular beach resort area Jūrmala, this biologically diverse area provides an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the bog ecosystem. The Great Ķemeri Bog (Lielais Ķemeru tīrelis in Latvian) covers an area of over 12,000 of the National Park’s 94,000 acres and dates back about 8,000 years. The bogs are an integral part of the ecosystem, soaking up significant amounts of precipitation and preventing flooding, but also acting as water cleaning systems.

The Park still shows the scars of WWI in the form of trenches in the bogs & marshes and cemeteries in Smārde and Kalnciems. WWII saw tanks sunk in the bog, the peat layer 15-50 feet deep. The Ķemeri National Park was established in 1997 to protect these historically and culturally important areas, but also the famous natural mineral springs used for centuries because of their reputed therapeutic benefits. The springs led to development of many resorts, spas, and sanitariums in the vicinity in the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Today the newly reconstructed Ķemeri sanatorium bears testimony to the belief in the healing properties of the sulphur springs.

Forests occupy 57% of the total area of the park, and bogs another quarter. All three wetland types – fens, transition and raised bogs – are found in Ķemeri, making it an internationally important wetland. Rich in flora and fauna, the Ķemeri National Park boasts 897 species of plants, 202 mosses, 139 lichens and 521 species of mushrooms, the mosses and orchids especially prominent in the wetlands. The rare black stork and corncrake nest in the bogs, and sea eagles, eagle-owls and cranes are often spotted throughout. The Park’s streams contain a wide variety of rare native snails, mussels, fishers, storks and otters, and in the forests you’ll find beaver, lynx, elk, red deer, wild boars and wolves, the isolated habitat ideal for large mammals. 47 species of mammals including wild horses call the Park their home, and more than 250 bird species (67 of them listed as protected - such as the rare white-backed woodpecker) have been observed in the area.

The lowlands of the region are separated from the Baltic Sea by several rows of dunes which mark the shores of the ancient Littorina Sea. When the sea receded lagoon lakes were formed; the 100-foot deep Lake Valgums on the north end of the Park contains the history of the ice age in its depths. A combination of factors including these geologic beginnings were the foundation of the formation of the Great Ķemeri bog, one of the largest mossy bogs in Latvia. The most popular attraction in Ķemeri National Park is the Great Ķemeri bog trail (Lielā Ķemeru tīreļa laipa in Latvian), which lets visitors explore without harming the fragile bog ecosystem.

The trail consists of over 2 miles of boardwalks, a giant loop with a shortcut halfway resembling a giant figure 8 (can be seen in the aerial photo below in the upper left corner). Bear in mind that the shorter 1-mile loop does not include the watchtower, a highlight of the hike. The bog is characterized by a series of elongated lakes visible on portions of the hike, but the scenery is mesmerizing and suprisingly diverse along the entire length.

Aerial view from Google Earth

From the parking area it is a good ½ mile to the beginning of the trail down a sandy, forested road. Wild blueberries and raspberries grow sporadically along the ditches, blanketing the forest floor once you reach the trailhead. Only a short distance further we emerged from the trees into the bog and began our adventure into the stark milieu.

The first constructed trail to venture out into the bog was a Soviet era footbridge used to access the swamp meteorological station whose operations ceased in 1990. In 2000 the base of that walkway was utilized to build boardwalks, but they quickly deteriorated and by 2008 were unusable. Funds to restore the trail were granted by the European Union in 2013 and on our visit it was in impeccable condition. In some places the remnants of the old piers could still be seen.

Our midday visit yielded little in the terms of wildlife sightings, but was rich in plant life; a favorite was the carnivorous plant which was small but prolific along the boardwalks. According to the government webpage 86 of the more than 900 plant species in the park are protected.

Drosera rotundifolia, the carnivorous apaļlapu rasene or common sundew

Andromeda polifolia, bog rosemary or polijlapu andromeda

A morning or evening visit might allow for more waterfowl sightings, but we enjoyed our visit nonetheless, especially with the opportunity to get a different perspective of the bog – one from above. About halfway through the hike is an observation deck, a perfect spot for seeing the unique pattern the elongated lakes make over the landscape. The boardwalk creates an interesting contrast to the subtle hues of the bog, and even in the middle of summer the array of colors was stunning.

With its raised bogs, black alder forests, floodplain meadows and seaside lakes, Ķemeri National Park is a treasure, one every visitor to the region should go to. The views are glorious, the diversity easily observable, the beauty subtle yet memorable. All too soon we saw the forest looming ahead of us on the boardwalk, signaling the end of our hike through the bog and the end of our visit approaching, and although those with shorter legs might have been a tad relieved, the melancholy landscape had struck a chord within me. A sincere note of gratitude to our friends AKKM for introducing us to this enchanting locale!

PS I've truly never seen anything quite like these bogs up close and personal, except maybe the Hautes Fagnes of Belgium. You can read the post about that experience here.

Devils Fork

A large portion of Lake Jocassee is remote and hard to access as the land around the 7,500-acre lake remains mostly undeveloped. Even the popular Jumping Off Rock involves about 20 miles of unpaved roads – definitely worth it this time of year, but the reason why a trip to Jocassee takes up pretty much the whole day. It might be about another month before the leaves around Jocassee hit their peak color, and while you’re contemplating that day-trip to Jumping Off Rock I want to share a place on the opposite side of the reservoir – Devils Fork State Park.

From the SC/GA state line east to Jones Gap SP a series of steep-sided gorges carrying mountain streams down to the Piedmont have cut into the face of the Blue Ridge Escarpment. The series of canyons are known as the Jocassee Gorges, and Devil’s Fork is in the middle of this rugged country. Located on the eastern edge of the Sumter National Forest, the 622-acre State Park hugs the shore of the lake providing the only public access point to the its waters. An hour’s drive from Greenville, it is located near Salem which is only three miles off scenic Highway 11. The Park offers overnight stays in villas and campgrounds (including several paddle-in primitive sites), a swimming area, hiking trails, canoeing and kayaking access. Popular with fisherman, the lake is home to rainbow and brown trout, largemouth, smallmouth & white bass, crappie, bream and catfish.

I wrote in more detail about Lake Jocassee in my Jumping Off Rock post, but with little development around its waters, the high elevations, and four mountain streams and several waterfalls feeding the lake (accessible only by boat), Lake Jocassee is unusually clear and cool, making it a great SC trout fishing spot as well as a haven for scuba divers and swimmers. For the divers there is a walk-in ramp, and with 30-foot visibility it is an adventure to explore the roads, houses and other signs that still remain from before the lake’s creation such. Locations of churches and hotels such as the Attakulla Lodge are closely guarded secrets, while other spots like Mount Carmel cemetery are rather famous among divers (you might have seen it pre-Jocassee in the movie "Deliverance".

During the spring months, the park is a popular destination for hikers in search of a glimpse of the endangered Oconee Bell, a wildflower indigenous to the Carolinas. More than 90% of the population grow within park boundaries. The Oconee Bell Nature Walk is held each year in March for those interested in seeing this rare white flower.

Devils Fork also has a park store/gift shop, a playground, picnic shelters, equipment rental and geocaching. However, our main goal when visiting during the summer is to go swimming as the waters are among the cleanest in the Upstate. There is no roped-off swimming area and there are no lifeguards, but the sandy beach has a very gradual slope perfect for little swimmers to enjoy. Just remember to bring your sunscreen as there is little shade to be found along the portion of the shore best suited for swimming, and don’t forget to explore the rest of the park, another unique treasure of the Upstate!

For more on Lake Jocassee and visiting its numerous waterfalls by boat, please visit my post Exploring Lake Jocassee

A 1,000-year rain event in Mount Pleasant

It felt strange, and somewhat irresponsible; leaving my family in Greenville for an out-of-town conference while a 1,000-year rain event was predicted for the Upstate. Thankfully only a fraction of the rain that had been expected fell – our region was spared the flooding and destruction seen in central and coastal South Carolina. As of Wednesday, 17 fatalities are being ascribed to the storm, with over 600 rescues conducted by the Department of Natural Resources. 13 dam failures in the state! Officially Greenville received 5.32 inches of rain while 8.23 inches, the most in the Upstate, were recorded in Laurens. Compare this to the 20” in Sumter (nearby Columbia only received 12.45”) and Mount Pleasant’s 27.15”! 

On the Ravenel bridge crossing over to Mt. Pleasant

We had just left Mount Pleasant not even five days ago, on the eve of the harvest blood moon which was completely obscured by clouds. It rained a little on our trip, not enough to disrupt any of our plans but enough to result in the closure of a few roads, including completely submerging E Bay Street south of the Arthur Ravenel Bridge in Charleston. It’s hard to imagine what the area looks like now after a 20-fold increase in precipitation. Mount Pleasant might be best known as a gateway to popular beach resort Sullivan’s Island, but it also boasts several historic sites including Boone Hall Plantation & Gardens, Charles Pinckney NHS and Patriot’s Point. We stayed a night in the suburb, eating breakfast at the popular Page’s Okra Grill before our visit to the WWII aircraft carrier USS Yorktown museum, and crossed over the 8-lane Ravenel Bridge a multitude of times on our way into the city.

Page's Okra Grill, Mt. Pleasant, SC

The region has a long and storied history; it was in Mount Pleasant that a public meeting was held in 1860 that produced the first secession resolution of the state, and during the Civil War, Battery Guerry and an adjacent floating battery between Mount Pleasant and Sullivan's Island were instrumental in the defense of Fort Sumter. The Mount Pleasant Historic District was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973, including the Hibben House, built in 1755. But there is also the legacy of storms; Mount Pleasant last saw such a mighty blow from Hurricane Hugo, a Category 4 hurricane that made landfall on September 21, 1989.

On our visit all was calm. We headed to the Mount Pleasant Memorial Waterfront Park to enjoy our lunch and afternoon after a morning at the naval museum. Called the crown jewel of Mount Pleasant, the space is located under the Ravenel Bridge: clever utilization of acreage that might otherwise be neglected. A wide expanse of lawn for sports & picnics and a nautical-themed playground are located adjacent to the parking lot, followed by the River Watch Café/Gift Shop and 1,250-foot long pier stretching out into the Cooper River. We found shelter from the drizzle in the playground under the bridge, having lunch at one of the picnic tables and enjoying our freedom after a long morning at the museum. With a pause in the rain we headed out on the pier, the boys enjoying an ice cream cone while I filmed a pod of dolphins in the river.

The views from the park and pier are phenomenal, as they are from most of the points overlooking the Charleston harbor. There is a great view of Patriot’s Point, Charleston and of course, the Ravenel Bridge. The pier is also utilized for fishing, and on our visit there were a slew of fishermen with lines cast. The Park is also home to the Sweetgrass Cultural Arts Pavilion, an educational opportunity on the art, heritage and tradition of Lowcountry basket-making. Surrounded by marshland it is clear that this is a region prone to flooding. Less obvious is the coastal importance in terms of floodwater alleviation to higher ground.

As the state recovers from the devastating storm there is no doubt questions will be asked and blame placed over the failed dams. However, we must look at the bigger picture. With global weather patterns changing these 1,000-year rain events are becoming 100-year events, and with the continued development of low-lying flood areas with impervious surfaces there is nowhere for this water to go. We go from drought conditions to 5 inches of rain back to drought because the water has run off the driveways and into the drainage ditches and catchment ponds of the Upstate – where it only gathers strength before flooding the rivers of our Lowcountry. The answer to these disasters is multi-faceted: action in terms of climate-change and emergency response coordination, but also floodplain restoration, and local infill ordinance. I join the rest of the state wishing those affected a quick recovery, but I also challenge each and every one of us to look beyond the great floods of 2015 to the future and what we can do now to be ready for the next time – because there will be a next time, and it might be the Upstate in the crosshairs.

Riga from above - Skyline Bar

In the early 1960s the site of what is now Radisson Blu Hotel Latvia on Brīvības iela (then Ļeņina iela) was the chosen location of the proposed “Intourist” hotel. The 10-story design quickly became 23, and was intended to serve organized and Soviet foreign tourist groups. Completed in 1976, it first opened its doors in 1979. The USSR State Committee for Foreign Tourism rated it a category "B" hotel, which means that in addition to 680 rooms it was equipped with a conference room & the simultaneous translation booths, radio and video equipment needed to monitor all activity within the hotel. With an on-site 876-seat restaurant, souvenir and newspaper kiosks, a post office, municipal service center, and a currency exchange office, the Soviet government was putting forth a very specific image to foreign tourists. And, as self-guided tours of the region were near-impossible, Hotel Latvia was the face of the country shown to the West.

View from Skyline Bar towards the Supreme Court

Fast forward thirty years to a Latvia once again independant, and the building was due for renovations. Completed in two phases, the 25 million (US dollars) first phase of tower renovation was finished in a record 10 months in May of 2001. The second phase focused on the rest of the complex, with demolition work starting in 2003 and continuing until 2006 with the end result of 200 new hotel rooms, a glass arcade of shops and a conference hall that seats 1,000.

View from Skyline Bar towards the Daugava River

At almost 260,000 square feet, the Radisson Blu is one of the largest hotels in Latvia (although only 6^th tallest, at 312 feet), and on the 26^th of its 27 floors is the Skyline Bar. Self-billed as the “best view in the city,” the bar features totally Soviet-era décor with a pricey menu… but the view is grand.

In the shape of an elongated rectangle, tables stretch along the two long sides with views of Vecrīga to the southwest and the rest of the city to the northeast. Although there is seating in the middle section, the views are the reason you’ve come so make sure to get there early to snag a window seat. Or you can always do what we did – wait until someone is getting up to leave and quickly change tables.

Photo credit: Roberts - proof of a rare mom's night off!

The cocktail menu has options from 6.50 to 12 euro and the food section contains only several salads and desserts, but coffee can be had for under 4 euro so the fantastic views shouldn’t break the bank. If you linger for a while you might catch the sunset reflected in the windows of Gaismas Pils or the gold roof of the Nativity of Christ Cathedral. From the birds-eye perspective the Freedom monument looks rather tiny and you’ll notice that the observatory in St. Peter’s Church is not quite as high. But even if you’re just in for a quick look at the capital, the Skyline Bar will treat you to a completely different Rīga than the one you’ve seen on foot. 

The Nativity of Christ Cathedral and Brīvības Boulevard

Chihuly comes to Greenville

The newest addition to Falls Park was unveiled yesterday, a sculpture by world-famous glass artist Dale Chihuly. The piece, which is titled “Rose Crystal Tower,” is located in the westernmost portion of the park behind the West End Market in Harriet’s Garden. The garden is named for Harriet Wyche, a lifelong Greenville resident and member of the Carolina Foothills Garden Club, who were together instrumental in the creation of Falls Park. Mrs. Wyche, who died in 2011, was fondly remembered during the dedication as a beautiful person who had an incredible vision – one she saw realized through her unwavering work in the development of Falls Park, the heart of modern-day Greenville.

The dedication ceremony included speakers Knox White (Mayor of Greenville), Brad Wyche (son of Harriet Wyche and founder of Upstate Forever), Anna Kate Hipp (former president of the Carolina Foothills Garden Club and co-chair of the Falls Park Endowment, Paul Ellis (former City of Greenville Parks & Recreation Department director) and Ed Zeigler (chair of the City’s Arts in Public Places Commission). Once everyone had their say the black cover was pulled off, revealing the 8-foot, rose-colored Polyvitro tower.

The pink crystals are attached to a central column of stainless steel and are installed on a precast concrete base designed to match the benches in Harriet’s Garden. I was quite surprised at the end result, being as every Chihuly piece I’ve ever seen, from the sculptures at the Chicago Botanical Gardens to the chandelier at the Las Vegas Bellagio Casino and hotel, all share similar color and shape characteristics – which are nothing like the Rose Crystal Tower.

After hearing about Mrs. Wyche’s passion for gardening and roses, and with the mention of a photo published in an old Greenville newspaper of Harriet weeding – in pearls – I was able to better understand the design. Chihuly’s pieces are often compared to plants or flowers, and the glass utilizes a wide range of natural colors. In contrast, the Rose Crystal Tower is composed of crystals, made of Polyvitro and is only pink. The sculpture is already growing on me, and although I imagine there will be plenty of comparisons to pink rock candy sticks, I like that it is as unique and bold as Falls Park,  Greenville and Mrs. Harriet Wyche.