The twelve days of Latvija: Day 10, the final concert “Līgo!”

Once again, I am simply at a loss for words. The final concert of my first Latvian National Song and Dance Festival, six+ hours long, not including the sadziedāšana.

Source here

 

How can a listener sit for six hours straight? Simple. Watch this.

 

OK, and there were plenty of chances to duck out (or in my case push overwhelmed toddler in stroller out) and wander the arena enjoying the atmosphere, grabbing a bite to eat, or just setting out a blanket in the pines and watching/listening from afar.

 

431 choirs, 39 marching bands, 31 dance troupes, 17,908 participants! (and an audience that numbered 40,000!)

Source here

 

The culmination of a week full of singing, this finale refilled my cup, re-centered my soul, re-invigorated my being.

 

Our amazing dziesmu svētku luck continued with amazing seats just eight rows behind the conductors and mvps, something which sadly was lost on the 3 and 1 year old but brought me tremendous joy, as the singers wrapped around on both ends and enveloped us in their harmony.

 

A new tradition which began the previous festival, after the official portion the singing continued until dawn. Singing old favorites, traditional folk songs and new numbers, the audience could join in the singing. A large part of the choir stayed, words broadcast on the large screens for those who left their songbooks at home.

We had company on our ride to Mezparks

 

With two sleeping babies but a heart full of national pride we stayed until 4am, soaking it all in. If only the boys had gotten the memo about sleeping in…

The twelve days of Latvija: Day 9, Dance grand performance “Our fathers’ piers”

Deju Lieluzvedums Tēvu laipas

 

14,764 dancers

 

Four shows in two days
 

 

30 songs

 

 

 

603 dance troupes

 

“Our figures are like fine vessels, with which time carries the past over to the future. The blood that flows in our veins forms a pier or bridge cast by our fathers into the future. The languages that flow together in our language are bridges back to our origins.” –Inga Ābele

 

 

For a taste of what it was like to be there live:

 

 

The twelve days of Latvija: Day 8 and a change of plans

The day’s original plans were scrapped after several of us have contacted a sort of stomach bug. Luckily the boys didn’t get it, leaving me to believe that instead of a virus we’ve all gotten food poisoning, but in any case I couldn’t drag myself out of bed in time to make the longer trip to Sigulda and Limbaži. The day was spent resting, hydrating and hoping for the best; although we’ve been participating in the Latvian National Song and Dance Festival events all week, tomorrow we have tickets to the folk dancing event that would be a shame to miss.

 
It’s hard to ignore the Festival. With the windows open there is constantly a stream of chatter streaming in from excited concertgoers, usually accompanied by the TV or radio broadcasting one of the many events. Stepping out of the apartment you will be hard pressed to not pass at least one concert or exhibition. Vērmanes dārzs is full with the fair but also with a number of stages, each hosting a choir, theatre production or folk dancing group.

 

Even out for the evening you will find quality entertainment, as each beer garden, club and restaurant has live bands joining in the festivities. On any particular night I could easily find at least two or three spots I would love to attend, and a couple nights ago we managed to sneak in a visit to Egle, where one of my favorite Latvian bands Ilģi were playing.

 

People have arrived from all over the world to participate in the Dziesmu Svētki, including vocal ensembles from countries located in each corner of the globe. Walking the streets it is guaranteed you will bump into someone you know – even during my limited time out today I was constantly stopping to greet and talk with people. My cousins from the States have arrived in Rīga, and the boys were elated to have some time with AAE within their first couple of hours in Latvia. We already have plans with my other cousins AI on Sunday; I find it crazy that we have to travel to Latvia to see them!

 

The atmosphere here is unlike anything I have ever experienced before. Charged with excitement and cultural pride, the feeling is that I am part of something historical, something larger than myself, my family. Watching facebook posts popping up from the singers and dancers preparing for the grand finale concerts in the next two days I am astounded at the logistics required to coordinate the massive influx of people, not to mention the endless events, museum exhibits, concerts and displays. From decorated trams to the logo adorning the city, the photography and crafts shows to the parade, it is no wonder that the eyes of the world are upon Latvia this week. Some have opted to join in, others send their greetings (like the BBC singers!), but there is no question – The Latvian National Song and Dance Festival is the very pinnacle of Latvian cultural and social life, here and abroad.

 

The twelve days of Latvija: Day 7, the 4th of July

Sandwiched between the PLEIF conference and the main events of the National Song and Dance Festival was the 4^th of July. It was with mixed emotions that I awaited this holiday, as it wasn’t going to be the fireworks and hot dogs holiday we would have celebrated in Greenville. We actually haven’t celebrated the American Independence Day in a few years since we were living in France; there, July 4^th usually lands right in the middle of the Tour de France, and our days packing and preparing for our move to the US were interrupted by a road trip to Stage 18 of the famous bicycling race instead of parades and red, white and blue.

Milda at night

Being in Latvia, the complicating factor is that July 4^th is officially a day of mourning here. In 1941, 300 Jews hiding in a basement in the Rīga Choral Synagogue were burned alive by Nazi forces. Since Latvia regained its independence in 1991, July 4th has been designated as the official Holocaust Memorial Day, and in 1994 a memorial was erected near the destroyed synagogue. President Ulmanis (President from 1993 until 1999) and the Saeima have formally apologized for Latvia’s role in the Holocaust, but the pain still lingers from the many horrors seen during the war and the 50 years of occupation by the Nazis and Soviets. The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia has exhibits pertaining to the Jewish deaths that occurred during World War II.

Our July 4^th here did not see us watching the Tour de France, nor did we attend the commemorative event near the site of the synagogue, instead we celebrated with a group of Latvian scouts and guides. The only real connection I can draw between our celebration here in Latvia to American Independence Day is that the majority of guests were from the US, otherwise the party was mostly to celebrate our common association to the Latvian guide and scout organizations. I was excited to hear of the progress on the organization of the next big jamboree; I attended the last one three months after the birth of Lauris and hope that maybe our participation in this next one will be more camping, less newborn baby.

The boys and their newest friend, Suitcase Teacher

We also had a more serious celebration this morning, but one having nothing to do with the US or Latvia, and instead the Ķeņģis family. As I wrote about earlier in the week we joined 200 or so of our distant relatives for a large family reunion, and to continue to the festivities a film crew showed up this morning to record my mother in law speak about her parents and grandparents, and my husband to add in his memories of these family members. It was fascinating listening to the stories they both told, and I was secretly thrilled that the story of how Roberts met me up to our engagement made it on film.

 

And so instead of sitting next to the open window listening to the sound of fireworks, I’m  hearing a car stereo blaring some bad Russian techno interspersed with these birds (someone said they were gulls but they sound more like geese to me) and a TV airing the Song and Dance Festival events. Happy birthday to the land of the free and the home of the brave – ‘Merica!

The twelve days of Latvija: Day 6, PLEIF and meeting the President

One of the main reasons for our trip to Latvia other than the National Song and Dance Festival was the PLEIF conference – Pasaules Latviešu Ekonomikas un Inovāciju Forums, or World Latvian Economics and Innovations Forum. The World Federation of Free Latvians (WFFL) and the Latvian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LCCI) in collaboration with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Culture and the Investment and Development Agency of Latvia is organizing the Forum “targeting Latvian expatriates and their descendants to explore Latvia not only as their ancestral land and a place of cultural riches, but also to investigate Latvia as a land of great opportunities.” (source here)

Onkulis Pauls has arrived!

 

A rich and diverse program included discussion on topics such as Latvia in the global world, doing business in Latvia, Latvia’s export capabilities and investment opportunities. Along with being an ideal networking opportunity, it was a rare chance for Latvians and professionals from abroad to meet successful entrepreneurs and businessmen from Latvia, hear the success stories and learn from their collective experience. It is the organizers hope that through the forum new ideas aimed at promoting Latvia’s economic development and new business initiatives will be generated.

A very special invitation, from the President of Latvia

 

In my previous post I mentioned the kick-off dinner, featuring Valdis Dombrovskis, the Prime Minister of Latvia. It was exciting to feel the anticipation of the participants before the start of the conference, and in addition to getting reacquainting with people I hadn’t seen in years I made new contacts within forestry and natural resources. We enjoyed world-class koklētājas Laimas Jansones music and I want to share this YouTube video that showcases her unique fusion of new and old utilizing this very traditional Latvian instrument.

 

The next morning I wasn’t able to join the forum until after lunch, when my husband participated in a section “Latvian sectors with export potential: Promoting Latvia’s products and services on world markets,” specifically “How can Latvian businesses conquer world markets? Various scenarios of acquiring external markets.” Well-known directors and owners of Latvian brands such as Latvijas Balzams and Stenders joined to provide an inspiring and informative session. The only speaker who wasn’t born in Latvia, I was proud of my husband’s language skills as well as ability to engage the audience.

 

Later that evening I was honored to be invited to an invitation-only reception hosted by the President of Latvia, Andris Bērziņš in the Melngalvju nams, the temporary residence of the President while the Castle is being renovated. The “House of Blackheads” in Vecrīga was built in the 14th century for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild for unmarried German merchants in Riga. Rumors of lavish feasts with participants such as Catherine the Great and other nobility abound, and the building was the richest building on the Town Hall square for many years. The name derives from the black caps worn by its members as well as the patron saint Mauritius, a Moor. During World War II it was destroyed by the Germans and the remains demolished by the Soviets in 1948, however the building was fully restored in the 1990’s in honor of the 800^th anniversary of the city of Rīga.

 

It was a privilege to be able to see the extraordinary interior of this historically-accurate restored building, and even more so to meet the President, hear his address to the forum attendees and meet so many of the movers and shakers that have been instrumental in boosting Latvia into one of the top spots for economic growth in Europe in recent years. It was a remarkable evening; a perfect opportunity to dress up, I felt the part - snacking on flawless little hors d'oeuvres and sipping wine in such sophisticated surroundings. Such a unique opportunity and one I will surely be telling my (grand?)children about in years to come.