Monday, April 9, 2012

Lieldienas Andorra

This post is about my dad's 60th and Easter - I'll catch my English-language readers up in a later post!

Visgrūtākā lieta man dzīvojot Francijā ir būt tik tālu no ǵimenes. To seviški izjūtam svētkos un ǵimenes godos. 

Lieldienas šogad nosvinējām hoteļa istabā mūsu pavasara ceļojumā. Lauris ar lielu sajūsmu sameklēja Lieldienu zaķa atstātās olas, turpretīm es sapņoju par zaļo zāli vecmammas dārzā kur ar māsicām un brālēniem meklēju paslēptas olas. Mēs trīs sitām olas, Lauris uzvarēdams, un es tik prātoju kas uzvarēja Zvanu ielā. (Man stāsta, ka Andrejs esot ar tievo galu pieveicis Dainas olas resno galu.) Šūpoles te Andorra neatradām, jācer, ka brālis un māsas izšūpojās pietiekam mums visiem.

Būs vēl Lieldienas, bet šodien nokavējam arī kautko, kas neatkārtosies: mana tēša 60. dzimšanas dienu. Mana māsa ar vīru par pārsteigumu ielidoja no Ņujorkas, lai pavadītu nogali Čikagā viesībās un Lieldienu svinībās. Bija liels hoopla New England ielā, ar bingo spēli par tēša dzīvi, slīdīšu izrādi un mūsu vietā franču stilā saldo ēdienu. Nezinu vai tas bija tētim vai mammai lielāks prieks, saldais galds būdams rezultāts „makarona” garšošanai lai izvērtētu Čikāgas labāko macaroon.

Paldies krustmātei Gintai par skaistām grāmatām!

Atliek trīs lietas ko stāstīt/rādīt. Šo bildi no maziem Lieldienu puikām. Otrais, pateikt, ka šodien tikai domājam cik ļoti gribētu būt Čikagā ar ǧimeni. Un trešais, novēlam manam tētim, mūsu dēlu vectētiņam, daudz laimes dzimšanas dienā.

Friday, April 6, 2012

Joyeux Pâques!

Easter turned out a little different last year; Roberts’s brother and Indra came to visit us on our first major holiday away from family, but in lieu of the Easter bunny, colored eggs and a big Easter Sunday meal we had the Gorges du Tarn, Puy de Dôme and the marché de potiers in nearby Gouttieres. I was somewhat disappointed in myself for not being able to continue any of the Easter traditions I had grown up with other than olu sišanās (or egg wars, you can read about this custom here, but resolved to try again this year.

With our visitors last year
The last week of Lent (Holy Week) for Latvians is called klusā nedēļa, with pūpolu svētdiena (which I explain in this previous post), zaļā ceturtdiena ("green" Thursday), lielā piektdiena ("big" Friday) and Easter Sunday. Some of the older pagan spring rituals to predict weather (in regards to planting crops), and promote health and fertility in crops and farm animals were carried over into the Christian celebration. Thursday and Friday were the days to be careful as the supernatural lurked all around, sickness and death would be attributed to carelessness on these days. In truth, the days before Easter were the days when the cellars and barns emptied of the last stores of the previous harvest and this years crops had not yet been planted, so hard winters and empty stomachs had a large impact on health. Not many of these ancient rituals have survived, although some of the basic ideas have endured. The coloring of eggs using onion skins is not among these pagan rituals, it only developed after the coming of Christianity. Eggs can be associated with rebirth and renewal, and this can be linked with the resurrection of Jesus as well as to their round shape, a symbol of the sun for our ancestors.

To Latvians Easter has always symbolized the victory of light and life over darkness (the coming of spring), and an old tradition is waking before the sun on Easter morning, and washing ones face in running water. This ritual promotes health, beauty and intelligence. I’m not sure about waking up that early (remember, Latvia is pretty far north and so the days are still much shorter), but the ritualistic washing is still done, albeit under running tap water and not in an outdoor stream.


Another tradition we still participate in to this day is šūpošanās, or swinging. It is a magical ritual that reflects the rising and setting of the sun, and not only helps the sun climb higher into the sky, but keeps away the mosquitoes the coming year!

Other traditions, especially concerning the egg, have slowly been forgotten. In my research for this post I found the following rules for the three days of Easter celebrations, and this list is only the beginning:
If you eat your egg without salt then your summer will bring many lies.
While boiling the eggs do not blow on the flame, nor talk or laugh or the eggs will crack.
If the egg peels easily the flax will grow well and be easily processed.
Eggs were taken to the cemetery, symbolizing rebirth also for the dead.
The swing must be hung high on a hill so that visible from afar, but never near a stream so that girls will not lose their vainadziņš (in this case a symbol of innocence)
The swings can not be left up after Easter as then eggs will not hatch in the coming year.
The swing can be burned after use, and then the witches can not use them. (! They really were serious about their swings !)


Our Easter eggs already colored using this traditional method, I thought back to other Easter traditions that were of importance to me as a child. One of the American customs that has been blended into our American-Latvian celebration is the egg hunt, sometimes accomplished indoors, sometimes outdoors. I could check this off the list as luckily Lauris had been able to join the IWC mom and baby group in this fun activity

Another custom for our family is to meet after church for a large Easter lunch. Ham is usually the main dish, and my grandmother’s paska always makes an appearance. I knew paska wasn’t a Latvian dish so I looked it up, and it turns out what we call paska is a dish borrowed from the Eastern Orthodox countries named after Pascha, the Eastern Orthodox celebration of Easter. Paskha or Pascha (Russian: Па́сха, "Easter") is a dish made during Holy Week and then brought to church on Saturday to be blessed, and contains those foods which are forbidden during the fast of Great Lent. Made from farmer's cheese or cottage cheese, which is white, the dish is supposedly a symbol of the purity of Christ. For my family it doesn’t have any symbolism, but has become a staple in the Easter feast.


And so in my effort to bring some of our family Easter traditions to our home in France, I followed my grandmother’s recipe as closely as I could. The recipe called for farmer’s cheese, but I substituted cottage cheese (which was as hard to find here in Clermont-Ferrand as were the white eggs!) and omitted the corinthes (which I’ve never really liked all that much, I prefer to serve up strawberries on the side). The result was not exactly as I remember, but I consider it as much of a success as our onion skin Easter eggs, and the olu sišanās.

I wish each and every one of you priecīgas Lieldienas, a happy Easter, and joyeux Pâques, and may your family traditions bring you as much happiness as have ours.

My grandmother's paska recipe
 
1/2 lb butter at room temperature
6 hardboiled eggs yolks
3 lbs farmer’s cheese
½ tsp vanilla
½ cup chopped hazelnuts
1 ½ cups powdered sugar
1 – 1 ½ cups corinthes
2 cups whipped cream

Using a mixer, blend the egg yolks and butter. Add the farmer’s cheese and vanilla, then continue mixing by hand. Combine the result with the powdered sugar, hazelnuts and corinthes and finally fold in the whipped cream.

Place mixture in a colander lined with cheese cloth, then fold the cheese cloth over the top. Put on a plate and place in refrigerator for at least one day.

Invert on a serving dish, garnish with strawberries or other fresh berries and serve! Bon appétit!

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

I forgot, again!

Reading one of my favorite blogs I was reminded that I once again missed April Fools’ day! It isn’t that I had some grand scheme planned, instead I wanted to tell you about Poisson d’avril, April 1st in France. Although it’s not really known for sure where the origins of this day of practical jokes and hoaxes lie, many writers suggest that the restoration of Jan. 1st as New Year’s Day in the 16th century is to blame. Those left celebrating the New Year on April 1st would have been fools...

In 1508 French poet Eloy d’Amerval referred to a poisson d’avril, an April fish, and these words describe the tradition that is still practiced in France today. The goal is to attach a paper fish to the victim’s back without being noticed. Hah! Hilarity ensues!

Our April 1st activities included flying planes from atop the coffee table

I also forgot that it was Latvian holiday Pūpolu svētdiena until I received an e-mail from my grandmother wishing me the traditional “apaļš kā pūpols, vesels kā rutks!” A literal translation is pussy willow Sunday, more commonly known as the Christian holiday Palm Sunday. One of the most common traditions on this day is for the first person awake to cut some branches from the willow and use them to wake the rest of the household while wishing them to be “round as a pussy willow, healthy as a turnip.”


Luckily I have not forgotten that Easter Sunday is this weekend! Our Easter plans are forming, the Easter bunny has been notified and I’ve even located some cottage cheese to try my hand at paska… but that will be another post!

Monday, April 2, 2012

Latvian Easter eggs

The Latvian Easter egg coloring tradition uses onion skins to get a rich, earthy brown, with little flowers and leaves leaving their prints behind in white. I described the method in more detail last year, although the eggs weren’t finished in time for Easter due to issues finding white eggs.

Rice, parsley, rose leaves, clover and dandelion skins

After that debacle I decided to try hosting an Easter egg coloring afternoon again this year. Roberts made the special trip out to the one store that carries œufs blancs, and I stepped up my onion skin collecting. I had been saving them for at least four months, but now I made several trips to the local Carrefour to buy an onion or two and fill the rest of the bag with loose skins from the bin. In the United States I had to explain to the cashier once or twice what they were for (more often I just said “art project”), but here in Clermont with my limited French language proficiency, more often than not I combined a little head shake with a vacant “what are you talking about” look.

The kids hard at work

Friday morning Lauris’s friends (and their moms) started arriving, bags of onion skins, old nylons, grasses and flowers in hand. Some of the prep work was already done the previous night; I had boiled the water and half of the onion skins so the giant pot would have a chance to cool before we put all of our eggs (literally) in one basket. And all that was left to do was decorate and tie our egg bundles, boil them and then let cool for about 20 minutes. And of course drink beaucoup de café, watch the kids practice their social skills in the living room and catch up on the local going-ons.

Photo credit: Evdoxia Ghika

The mothers left for home with their eggs still wrapped so that they would have extra time to cool, and that the kids may have a nice surprise opening the little “presents”. I was too impatient to let the water cool completely before repeating the process with the eggs I had wrapped and so a few cracked from the sudden temperature change, but we’ve more than enough to have our olu sišanās, or “egg-hitting” on Easter morning.

I wish all my readers a wonderful time coloring their eggs and hope you will share the methods you use with me!

Friday, March 30, 2012

Lyon, version printemps

Last week we took a day trip to Lyon, to register Mikus as an American citizen. Luckily for us the weather was warm and sunny, allowing us to further explore the city after the official business was over. (Some previous adventures in Lyon here and here)


We started with lunch on rue de la Républic and continued with a !! Starbucks !! coffee and quick tour through H&M. (I will admit I spent about 20 minutes waiting for my frappuccino, but that this didn’t diminish my ecstatic enjoyment of afore-mentioned decaffeinated delight served in a giant..no, wait… grande! to-go cup. Then on to Place Bellecour, one of the largest in France. (Lauris wasn’t impressed. You have to remember, he’s been to the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, supposedly the largest in Europe) In the very center there is a giant statue of Louis XIV on horseback. The pedestal is decorated by two bronzes, representing the Rhône and the Saône, each facing in the direction of its respective river. I found it interesting that an earlier statue had been destroyed during the French Revolution, but that this statue had been spared in 1848 by a change of inscription. Oh, and the square was home to a guillotine about 200 years ago. 

Lady Saône

We didn’t linger much longer, as ripples of the horrific events in Toulouse were felt even in Lyon, where the funeral of one of the soldiers was held on the precise day we were there. We noticed a chill in the air along with the very visible presence of police in riot gear. The tragedy cast a distinct pall over the city’s celebration of spring.


Chamber of Commerce building
The Chamber of Commerce building sits in a beautiful little square that we paused in on our way north. There happened to be an expo of some sorts wrapping up, and so in addition to the beautiful flowering magnolias we enjoyed a quick peek at the interior main hall.


Then another stop at Starbucks (there are two in Presqu’île, of course we had to stop twice… not to mention I had yet to have my favorite drink, a mocha: today grande, decaffeinated and in a to-go cup!) and soon we were rolling yet again, an additional American citizen sitting in the backseat.

Place de la Républic
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