Friday, June 21, 2013

Latvia - A Legacy of Singing

I often get asked what Latvia is most famous for, the implication that being a country roughly the size of West Virginia (<25,000 square miles), it can’t be well known for much. And the sad truth is that in recent years Latvia has appeared negatively in the news accompanying human trafficking stories, has been advertised as a stag party destination for “boozy British tourists”, and most recently was mentioned yesterday the world over with the burning of the Castle of Rīga, Rīgas PilsAlthough a majority of people I meet today at least know that Latvia is a country (in contrast to 15 years ago when more often than not I would be met with a blank stare, or with a “where’s that?”), I often find myself explaining the geographical location, climate, or answering the question of what the country I consider my homeland (despite being born in Chicago) is best known for.

What Latvia should be best known for is its rich cultural tradition. The Latvian folk song, or daina, is a form of oral literary art, and has long been considered a distinguishing feature of the Latvian identity. Dating back over 1,000 years, there have been more than 1.2 million different dainas identified, and something close to 30,000 melodies; no other peoples in the world can lay claim to such an extensive oral history preserved in song. In addition, these folk songs are still sung today, and you will rarely find a celebration or gathering without singing, especially at the Jāņi celebrations taking place this weekend.

Source: Diena.lv


"To the Latvian the dainas are more than a literary tradition. They are the very embodiment of his cultural heritage, left by forefathers whom history had denied other, more tangible forms of expression. These songs thus form the very core of the Latvian identity and singing becomes one of the identifying qualities of a Latvian." (Vaira Vīķe-Freiberga, former President of the Republic of Latvia, Journal of Baltic Studies, 1975.)

What Latvia should be famous for, is the incredible wealth of customs and traditions, starting with singing and folk dancing, but including everything from the national foods such as kliņģeris, pīrāgi, Jāņu siers, skābie kāposti, šprotes, etc. to the woven goods, the woodcarvings, the amber jewelry and the literature. Starting with a beautiful language that is one of the oldest of the Indo-European languages, to the stunning physical beauty of the beaches, forests, rivers and old cities in the country itself; Latvia’s riches lie in its people, natural beauty and its culture.

Sources: here, here, here and here

Tālavas taurētājs, Rūdolfs Blaumanis
Uz Tālavas biezajiem siliem Nakts pelēkus palagus klāj; Pār klusiem koku galiem Jodi un murgi jāj.
Dus Miervaldis savā pilī, Guļ viņa ļaužu pulks, Guļ vaidelaiši un sargi, Un zīmju gudrais tulks.
Tik augstākās egles galā Taurētājs nomodā, Tas spiego pēc ienaidnieka Tuvu un tālumā.
Te it kā pa sapņiem tam liekas, Ka  slepeni soļi čab, Ka šķēpi pašķindētu, Ka zirgu pakavi klab.
Un troksnis ap egli ceļas, Un bultas augšup skrien, Un asu cirvju zobi Egles stumbrā lien.
“Šurp tauri! Kāp zemē! Ciet klusu! Tu glābsi sev dzīvību; Mēs algosim tevi ar zeltu, Ar godu, ar brīvību!”
“Mans zelts ir mana tauta, Mans gods ir viņas gods! Kas postīdams viņu šausta, Uz pekli lai rauj to jods!”
Un taurētājs pūš ar spēku, Ka koku galotnes trīc, - Un lejā atskan lāsti, Un bultas spindz un sīc.
Mirdz lāpu sarkanā uguns, Sāk cirtiens uz cirtiena līt; Dreb, šūpojas staltā egle, Un brakš, un gāžas, un krīt.
Un taurētāja krūti Šķēpi un cirvji šķeļ, Bet taures skaņas pilī No miega Miervaldi ceļ.
Un viņš un viņa pulki Uz cīņu kājas aun, Un šķēpnešiem pretī drāžas, Dzen stiegnājā tos un kaun…
Bet uzvaras gaviļu svētkos Meitenes vaiņagus pin, Un varoni sirmā māte  Sniegbaltos autos tin.
Uz sārta vietu tam taisa No ozolu pazariem Un līgava puķēm to kaisa, Un dzintara gabaliem.
Un kamēr svaidītās liesmas Pie dieviem jaunekli nes, Dzied vīri tam slavas dziesmas, Raud žēli meitenes.

Source: here
What Latvia should be making headlines with, is the XXV Vispārējie latviešu Dziesmu un XV Deju svētki (Nationwide Latvian Song and Dance Festival) that will be taking place in a few weeks in Rīga (June 30 – July 7). Held every five years, the first festival was in 1873. The festival is a key component of the Latvian cultural identity, and the festivals since 1991 have seen about 30,000 members including the choirs, folk dancers, brass bands, traditional music ensembles, harpists and vocal ensembles. The folk dancing lieluzvedums is expected to showcase 15,000 dancers, and the culmination of the weeklong festival is the closing concert in open-air venue Mežaparks, featuring a combined choir of over 15,000 singers. I’ve attended smaller Latvian song and dance festivals in the US and Canada (even danced and sung in more than a few!), but I hope you’ll join me on my journey to Latvia to experience the 25th Nationwide Latvian Song and Dance Festival, my first in Rīga. For a nation with a population of 2.058 million that languished for years under Soviet occupation, the song and dance festival is a celebration of freedom, of culture, of life, and I can’t wait to join in.



Manai dzimtenei, Raimonds Pauls, Jānis Peters

Es redzu – nāk vīri pelēkos vadmalas svārkos. Ir 1873.gads. Dimd Rīga un pirmie dziedāšanas svētki ir sākušies ...

Man stāstīja Daugaviņ’, Kā liktenis vīdamās, Dziesma savus svētkus svin, Ar bāliņu celdamās.
Tā dziedāja bāleliņš, Pret likteni stāvēdams Viņa dziesmā gadu simts Kā mūžiņis krāsojās.

Vēl nāks Piektais gads, asins lietus līs, Un visaugstākās priedes nolauzīs.
Iesim strēlniekos, dziesma vētru sēs. Mūžam gaismas pils kalnā gavilēs.

Lai balstiņis vīdamās Pār novadu aizvijās. Dziesma savus svētkus svin, Ar bāliņu celdamās.
Tā dziedāja bāleliņš,Ar Daugavu nemirstīgs Viņa dziesmā gadu simts Kā mūžiņis krāsojās.
Cauri sirdīm mums lauztās priedes augs Jaunā gaitā mūs jauni rīti sauks.
Tālāk mūžībā, dziedot iesim mēs. Mūžam gaismas pils kalnā gavilēs.



Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Preparing for Jāņi!

Are you ready for Jāņi? You know, the most important of the Latvian holidays, that celebrates the summer solstice and the longest day & shortest night of the year?



Here are the posts I’ve written on the topic if you need a quick recap – 

Jāņi – the folklore
Jāņi Chatenet – A glance at last year’s celebration
It's tradition to build a bonfire as well as to take a jump over it - check out the oak crown

I’ve already spent the obligatory 2 hours driving to Inman and back, to shop at the two Russian-import stores there that carry Laimas chocolates and Rīgas šprotes, or smoked sprats in oil, a Baltic Sea delicacy. I also picked up some kvass from Ukraine, a fermented beverage made from rye bread. Popular not just in Latvija and the Baltics, but also Russia and most of Eastern Europe, it isn’t exactly my cup of tea. However, I’m glad to share this novelty with my fellow revelers this weekend at the two (not just one, but two!) Jāņi celebrations we will be attending. Want to celebrate Jāņi in your corner of the US? Just visit this map to find the līgotāji closest to you, and then check out Jāņi Amerikā to see pictures of previous years and to get the full scoop on this year’s festivities.

 
I also have all the ingredients on hand to tie the traditional cheese, sans dry curd cottage cheese. I will once more be substituting farmer’s cheese, and using my great grandmother’s recipe that has withstood the test of time. Remember, the cheese needs to be refrigerated for at least 24 hours before serving, so find that cheesecloth and get tying!


In blatant disregard of child labor laws protecting them from hours of stirring the Jāņu siers

As we’ve been traveling again, I’ve run short on time to make pīrāgi, another Jāņi  favorite, but luckily I have some dzeltenmaize on hand to make up for it. Round foods are preferred on Jāņi, because of the sun symbolism inherent in this holiday. Therefore, for the Jāņu siers I will be using a round mold and the traditional Latvian celebration bread dzeltenmaize will be circular, instead of the usual kliņģeris pretzel shape often made on birthdays.


Taking a break from all the preparations to watch the rain - ice cream cone essential

It wouldn’t be Jāņi without vaiņagi, the wreaths made from flowers (for women) and oak leaves (for the men) worn on the heads throughout the day. Historically only men named Jānis wore the crown of oak leaves, but since my husband’s middle name is Jānis (and if dad has one the boys each need one), I will be making three on Saturday morning. Any of my Greenville friends have a meadow with daisies blooming, or a wooded lot with some white oaks they would be willing to let me snip a few branches from?



And so you have it, my to-do list for the preparations this weekend:
X  Pick up Laimas šokolādes, Rīgas šprotes, kvass and beer
    Tie the cheese!
X  Bake the dzeltenmaize
    Make wreaths on Saturday morning
    Find our songbooks, Līgo music and book of Jāņi customs
X  Find last year’s wreaths to symbolically burn in the Jāņi bonfire this year (yes, I actually packed them and they have traveled all the way from France only to land in a bonfire!)

I wish everyone  a wonderful Jāņi, and may you find that elusive flower of the fern!


Imports from Europe on the left, Euro Market middle and right

* For those interested in the two specialty stores in Inman that carry Eastern European foodstuffs:
Imports From Europe, 9430 Asheville Hwy (Open Monday – Saturday from 10am to 7pm, although call to verify before driving 2 hours! (864) 599-0996)
Euro Market, 6400-C Hwy 9, Inman SC 29349 (Open all week, call for hours. (864) 814-2605)
There are a few more in the area that I have not had the chance to visit -
Moskov European Food Store, 11064 Asheville Hwy, (864) 472-9183
Nadias International Food Store, 68 S. Main St. (864) 472-9183
My friend Sarmīte reports that she's heard estimates upward of 10,000 Russian and Ukranians living in the Inman area, hence the cluster of shops. I wonder why this area in particular is so popular?

**Update 3/16/2014
There is a new grocery in Spartanburg that carries much of the same foods as the Inman stores, and more: European Market, 8149 Warren H. Abernathy Hwy. (864) 595-5033

Monday, June 17, 2013

Līgas iesvētības à Toronto

For English please see below!

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Pirms pāris nedēļām laimējās būt klāt māsīcas Līgas iesvētības, Sv. Andreja ev. lut. draudzes baznīcā Toronto. Pieci jaunieši tika iesvētīti, un draudzes mācītāja, prāv. Ilze Kuplēna-Ewart kalpoja ar ērģelnieka Dāvida Šmita pavadijumu. Bija skaists dievkalpojums (kaut drusku uz garo pusi) un man bija žēl nokavēt otro pusi kad Mikus sāka protestēt un bija jāiet lejā draudžu telpās.
 
Kamēr ērģeļu mūzika un draudzes balsis skanēja baznīcā, es ar Miku izstaigājām pārejo ēku. Būvēta 1876. gadā, baznīcā oriģināli lūdza presbetieriešu draudze un tikai 1951. gadā to pārdeva. Šodien divas draudzes to izmanto dievkalpojumiem, Sv. Andreja ev. lut. latviešu draudze, un Sv. Andreja ev. lut. Igauņu draudze.

Photo credit: Zintis P.
 
Īsu brīdi vēlāk piebiedrojamies iesvētītiem turpat ārā, Allan Gardens. Apsveicām jaunos pilntiesīgos baznīcas locekļus ar ziediem un priecājamies par skaisto dienu ko Dievs mums bija devis. Kaut bija drusku vēss, saulītē varēja ātri sasilt, un tā ģimene un draugi arī tūļājās, kaut daudzi bija lūgti uz viesībām Latviešu Centrā.

Photo credit: Zintis P.
 
Diena ātri paskrēja reiz ieradamies Centrā; pēc garšīga mielasta un mīļi piedomātām runām bija iespēja arī izvingrināt dejas mākas. Es priecājos izciemoties ar ilgi neredzētiem (un arī dažiem nupat redzētiem) radiņiem, ieskaitot abas manas māsas un brāļus, un sešas māsīcas un brālēnus. Apbrīnojām un bieži atgriezāmies pie bagāti klātā saldā galda, kur Toronto slavenās bizet tortes pazuda kā nu tikai. Vērojām kā puiši piebiedrojās bērnu pulkam kas skrēja ārā par zāļaino pakalniņu, un svinējām šo jauniešu panākumu varbūt atceroties arī mūsu iesvētes dienas…

Photo credit: Gunārs Lucāns
 
Mūsu laiks Toronto tomēr bija padaudz īss. Kaut iznāca drusku izklaide par High Park iepriekšējā dienā, pēc īsas ciemošanās pirmdienas rītā bijām jau ceļā uz lidlauku lai mērotu jūdzes (nu, pirmais gabaliņš laikam bija kilometros!) mājup. Paldies Līgai, manai krustmātei un B ģimenei par ielūgumu ar jums kopīgi atzīmēt šo svarīgo dienu, un apsveicam Līgu ar kļūšanu par pilntiesīgu baznīcas locekli!
 

Photo credit: Gunārs Lucāns
 
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We were delighted to fly to Toronto a few weeks ago to witness my cousin Līga’s confirmation service. It took place in the St. Andrew's Evangelical Lutheran Church in downtown Toronto, which is currently home to two congregations: the St. Andrew's Evangelical Lutheran Estonian and the St. Andrew's Evangelical Lutheran Latvian.

Photo source here
 
Built in 1876 and renovated by Henry Langley, the gothic church was the new home to the St. Andrew's Presbyterian congregation which formed in 1830 when Toronto was still known as the Town of York. It was sold by the Presbyterians to the Lutherans in 1951.
 
After a pause in the Allan Gardens just next door to congratulate the girls and heap flowers on them, we headed to the Latvian Canadian Cultural Center. With conference and banquet facilities, a store that sells handmade goods and other products from Latvia, Umurkumurs pub, a library and the offices of several organizations, together with the church the Center is the very heart of the Latvian society in Toronto. Depending on the day of the week you might find a folk dancing rehearsal taking place, or the monthly brunch and barbecue.

Photo credit: Gunārs Lucāns
 
It was late when the festivities ended, and having eaten our share of bizet torte and pīrāgi we headed back to my godfather’s house. I was amazed at how quickly our trip was over; luckily we had the chance to do some sightseeing in High Park the previous day, because after a short brunch with family on Monday it was already time to head to the airport for our flight back to the US.


 

Friday, June 14, 2013

300th frog

This happens to be my 300th blog post, but I don’t have anything poignant or momentous to report. Instead, I have a frog.

 
We’ve had a tremendous couple of weeks; a business trip survived, a wedding, a 70th birthday party, plenty of family to spoil the boys and even some time in the sun and sand. The boys have been troopers throughout, and hopefully they’ll keep up the good work on the plane trip home today. Thanks to all those who have chauffeured us, fed us, housed and babysat us these past weeks, we’ll see y’all again soon!


 

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

The Velo Fellow and Cedar Falls Park

It’s always fun to visit new places, and between the hiking with kids playgroup we’ve started attending and the Annual Park Hop Scavenger Hunt (more information below) we are visiting new parks at the rate of at least one a week. I’ve found motivation to drag a reluctant crew out to try a few new restaurants as well.

 
Last week was no different with our trip to Cedar Falls Park, followed by dinner later in that evening at the Velo Fellow, located downstairs from Mellow Mushroom (the pizza place). Modeled on the British publick house tradition, the pub serves appetizers and fish-and-chips type dishes to complement a selection of craft beers. We liked the vibe immediately upon walking in, the reclaimed wood tables and booths looking just as inviting as the leather couches and chairs or a spot at the bar (with a barman who looked the part of a publick house barman with his beard and hat…).

 
The food was a hit, although my husband later remarked that he hasn’t eaten that much fried food in one sitting in quite some time. We started with fried green tomatoes with garlic pimento cheese. The tomatoes were done well, crisp not slimy, and the cheese was flavorsome and not overwhelming. Before we had finished the appetizer our meals were already coming out, and if I have one complaint about the experience it would be that I felt slightly hurried with all the food arriving almost simultaneously. I should have stuck with my gut and ordered the fish & chips, as my husband’s cod was light and moist with a complimenting flavor I attribute to the beer batter. The chips were not fries, instead they were thin slices that had been fried and somehow managed to walk the line between greasy and delicious. My pecan crusted trout was served with salad and a side; the filet was from NC and tasted fresh, the crust was well done and the sides were better than average pub sides. I enjoyed the recommended beer, and the atmosphere was kid-friendly even without a kid’s menu and crayons. With the friendly service, this pub gets two thumbs up from me and I’m certain we’ll be returning as it provides a slight deviation from the standard Greenville fare.

The Velo Fellow on Urbanspoon
 
Rewinding to earlier in the day and our visit to the Cedar Falls Park! Historically a hunting site of the Cherokee and Catawba Tribes, the park offers a number of walking and nature trails that lead to a dam and the falls on the Reedy River. The park has several distinct sections with two main parking areas splitting access to the north and south parts. This turned out to be a long drive even without traffic (30-35 minutes) as it is a ways off the beaten path. We parked in the north section next to the children’s playground, enjoying some time on the swings and slide before heading south into the woods with the group.

This map of the falls area shows the location of the various dams and past structures

 
There are several trails in the park. The main trail is paved and leads through an upland forest, another unmarked trail takes hikers along Reedy River upstream of the falls. The southern portion of the park is the falls area, and several informative placards explain the history and significance of the region. Farthest upstream is the 1910 dam, followed by the 1800s dam and a natural waterfall. The water flows through a series of shoals over 50 feet wide, dropping about 12 feet total. This area has an industrial history much like other sites along Reedy River, as the shoals were used as early as the 1820s to power mills. In the early 1920s an electrical power plant was built on the site, and various foundations remain from the plant and the general store that was located between the dam and Cedar Falls Road.

The boys next to what used to be the generator

 
Nowhere near as well known as the other falls on the Reedy River, the site was only developed a couple years ago. Seeing the beauty of the waterfall I can understand why it is one of the 17 Greenville area parks chosen for the first-ever Park Hop Scavenger Hunt. LiveWell Greenville is sponsoring this adventure designed to help Greenville County residents discover parks in their community. Using a “park passport” participants find answers in each of the parks, and at the end of the summer the passports can be traded in for chances to win prizes.  To sign up and download a copy of the passport click here.

Lauris and the river below the falls

 
After exploring the falls and finding the scavenger hunt clue we headed back to the northern portion of the park, enjoying snacks at the picnic shelter before giving the playground another go. Although we probably will not be visiting this park again in the near future due to the distance from our home, I am glad we had the opportunity to see the falls. If you decide to visit yourself, I hope you enjoy your visit!

The shoals at Cedar Falls
 
Note: Please be aware that the poison ivy is everywhere, even in mowed areas and especially surrounding the falls. Poison ivy can be a problem in parks in our area, but in the park it was everywhere, posing a real problem for parents with children who like to explore. Luckily we escaped unscathed...

The dam at Cedar Falls
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