Heavy rains for the first time in weeks, followed by a full flower moon, complete with lunar eclipse! Seems right on target with a thirteenth wedding anniversary!?
May the adventures continue...
Monday, May 16, 2022
Wednesday, April 27, 2022
Femme au Foyer Guide to the Foothills Trail
Waterfalls, wilderness areas, wildflowers and epic views… No, I'm not talking about a national park somewhere out west, but our very own Foothills Trail! Backpacker magazine rated it as “one of the best long trails (fifty plus miles) in the country,” and it traverses the Jocassee Gorges, which National Geographic named one of "50 of the World's Last Great Places—Destinations of a Lifetime"… this isn’t just any walk in the park! Well-suited for a through-hike for families looking for a challenge, yet accessible even for the shortest day-trip ramble, the Foothills Trail is rapidly gaining notoriety as one of the premiere trails in the southeast.
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| Map via Foothills Trail Conservancy |
Totaling 77 miles, the trail stretches from Oconee to Table Rock State Park with additional spur trails to numerous waterfalls and Caesars Head State Park. Major trailheads are located at the state parks, as well as US 178, SC 130 and SC 107. You’ll find all this and more on the trail’s website, and the following interactive map has access points, campsites, water sources and other info:
With 77 miles of trail, it can be daunting to choose the
right hike for your family. I’ve put together a guide to help identify shorter
hikes on/near the Foothills Trail and spurs that will take you to points of interest, as well
as give you the info you’ll need to plan your trip: parking, hike difficulty, cost,
etc. The trail is broken down into sections, the numbers corresponding to
the system the Foothills Trail Conservancy uses on their website: “A” denoting
access points and “S” spur trails.
A short history of the Foothills Trail
The push to protect the Appalachian Foothills began in the
1960s, with Clemson University and the US Forest Service (USFS) leading the
way. The first component connecting Oconee to Table Rock was built in Sumter
National Forest by the USFS, and by the early 1970s, the Foothills Trail effort
was gaining momentum. Duke Power offered to build and maintain the central
section of the Foothills Trail during the process of planning the Bad Creek
Hydroelectric project, and in 1974 the Foothills Trail Conference was
established.
The 77-mile trail linking Oconee and Table Rock State Parks
was finished in 1981, and for the last 40 years the Conservancy has promoted
and supported the trail through trail maintenance and developing the Foothills
Trail Guidebook and map. To become a member, please visit the FTC’s website! Join Now – Foothills Trail
Conservancy
The Trail
Table Rock State Park (A1)
Chances are, you’ve been on the Foothills Trail already, as
a portion of this section shares trail with beloved Carrick Creek Trail in
Table Rock. The one mile of
trail that follows Carrick Creek up from the Nature Center has a waterfall,
countless cascades, and a gentle grade with well-maintained trail - perfect
for young children. From there you can keep hiking, although the trail gets
much steeper. A short spur goes up to the summit of Pinnacle Mountain, though all
the views are found along the Foothills Trail: Bald Knob (3.6 miles from Table
Rock) and Drawbar Cliffs (4.6 miles from Table Rock). Both make great
destinations, though be warned they are difficult hikes; less experienced
hikers will want to stick to Carrick Creek!
The easy way out(side): Carrick Creek loop trail
Know before you go: State Park pass required, hikers must
register at kiosk at Nature Center.
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| On the top of Sassafras Mountain |
Sassafras Mountain (A2)
Another spot on the Foothills Trail you may have already
checked out is Sassafras Mountain. Remember, as it’s the highest point in the state, any direction you hike will
be descending from the summit… which means you’ll have to go back up to get to your car!
The easy way out(side): The observation tower and the rock
outcrops located adjacent to the medium-sized parking area guarantee that you
will not have to go far to soak in those views! Remember to bring a picnic to
enjoy at one of the picnic tables.
Know before you go: Parking is free, but the road up can be
closed in the winter for inclement weather; to check on the status, call the
Pickens County Sheriff’s Office at (864) 898-5500.
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| Beech Bottom Falls |
Chimneytop Gap (A3)
Just two miles from the summit, the section of trail from
Chimneytop to the top of Sassafras makes for a nice day hike. Start at the
Chimneytop parking area to get the hard part out of the way first; the views at
the peak will be so much more spectacular as for having earned them with the
climb up!
The easy way out(side): Park at Chimneytop and hike the Beech Bottom Falls trail.
Know before you go: Up until Sassafras the Foothills Trail
has just been passing back and forth into the Jim Timmerman Natural Resources
Area at Jocassee Gorges, but after Chimneytop it heads right into the heart of
the wilderness area. Be prepared for fewer road access points and limited cell
service!
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| Raven Cliff Falls from Naturaland Trust Trail spur |
Caesar's Head Trail: Sassafras (S1) to Caesars Head (S2) spur
The 14.2 miles from Sassafras Mountain to Caesars Head are
strenuous, but the trail borders Greenville watershed property, some of the
most pristine forest in South Carolina. A highlight of this section is Raven Cliff Falls, the tallest waterfall in the state. To reach a viewing platform
across the valley from the falls, hike in from the Caesars Head SP end (use the
Raven Cliff Falls parking area) – the 4-mile in-and-out hike is moderate in
difficulty.
The easy way out(side): Park at the Caesars Head Visitor Center and
walk out to the overlook to get a birds-eye view of the terrain!
Know before you go: State Park pass required, hikers must
register at kiosk. Parking lot fills up fast, plan to get an early start and
have a back-up plan if overflow lot is full.
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| Jumping Off Rock |
Laurel Valley (A4)
The medium-sized parking area on Horsepasture Road serves as
a gateway to the Jim Timmerman Natural Resources Area at Jocassee Gorges, and
marks the last vehicle access point to the Foothills Trail for many miles. A
popular dayhike destination from this trailhead is Virginia Hawkins Falls, an
8.5 round trip, although by driving a bit further on Horespasture Road you can
reach a second trailhead that cuts down the mileage to 2.6 miles in-and-out.
The easy way out(side): Take a slow, scenic drive on Horsepasture
Road, with a stop at Jumping Off Rock to take in one of the most epic views of
the Jocassee Gorges.
Know before you go: Horsepasture Rd. is a primitive road maintained by the SC DNR. It’s open year-round, but allow for extra travel time – the 9 miles to Jumping Off Rock can take around an hour.
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| The Narrows |
Eastatoe Gorge: Laurel Valley (S3) to the Narrows (S4)
A moderate hike of 5.4 miles round trip (with a steep, if
short section that might tend towards strenuous), a Foothills Trail spur takes
hikers into the Eastatoe Creek Heritage Preserve. This section is characterized
by amazing spring wildflowers and a view of Eastatoe Creek as it funnels
through a narrow rock channel called “the Narrows.”
Know before you go: Park at the Laurel Valley parking area,
not at the gate a little further up the road where the trail enters the forest –
the road there serves as emergency access, and blocking the gate can get you
heavy fines and possibly towed.
Bad Creek Access (A7)
The Bad Creek Hydroelectric Site is a 360 acre
"pump-back" storage facility that pumps water from Lake Jocassee and
stores it until needed for peak energy demands. It has a scenic viewpoint over
Lake Jocassee as well as a public parking area providing access to the
Foothills Trail, the Jocassee Gorges Wildlife Management Area, and Lower
Whitewater Falls.
The easy way out(side): It is 0.7 miles one-way from the parking
area to the Foothills Trail and Whitewater River, a nice destination for those
looking for a short hike with some time by the water. The viewing platform for
Lower Whitewater Falls is a little more of a challenge, 4 miles in-and-out.
Know before you go: There are three boat access points to the
Foothills Trail in the 33 miles from Laurel Valley to Bad Creek Access (Laurel
Fork A5, Canebrake A6 and Horsepasture River) and a 5-mile connector trail
(Cane Brake Trail from Frozen Creek), though no vehicle access save for a few
intersections with 4WD forest roads. This is a popular section for camping,
especially with families and novice hikers looking to get a feel for backpacking.
The Foothills Trail Hiking group on Facebook can be very helpful for planning purposes, with advice from experienced
hikers/campers as well as up-to-date trail conditions. It is very important to
be well-prepared if entering this section, as there is little-to-no cell
service, and you are crossing through the heart of the Jim Timmerman Natural
Resources Area at Jocassee Gorges in addition to Laurel Fork Heritage Preserve,
NC Gorges State Park and the NC Gamelands.
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| Upper Whitewater Falls |
Upper Whitewater Falls (A8)
The NC Hwy 281 Upper Whitewater Overlook parking area proves
access to spectacular views of Upper Whitewater Falls, the highest waterfall
east of the Rockies!
The easy way out(side): A paved, accessible, ¼ mile trail leads to
the upper observation area, then 154 steps further you’ll have reached the
lower observation area. You can continue on to descend to the river – just remember,
you’ll have to climb back up!
Know before you go: A
parking fee of $3 per vehicle goes toward continued improvements of the park.
Please don’t venture off-trail, as deaths and serious injuries have occurred
here!
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| View from Wigington Overlook |
Sloan Bridge (A9)
The 5.5-mile hike from Whitewater to Sloan Bridge is along a
ridge, and has superb views of Jocassee in the winter, but the majority of
visitors are drawn to Sloan Bridge for a picnic at one of the tables, to cool
down in the East Fork of the Chattooga River, or for a short hike to one of the
several waterfalls to the south.
The easy way out(side): After a picnic at Sloan Bridge, drive over
to the nearby Wigington Overlook for a picture-perfect view of Lake Jocassee.
Know before you go: There are no trash receptacles at Sloan
Bridge Picnic Area; remember, if you pack it in, please pack it out!
Fish Hatchery Road (A10)
It’s just 3.3 miles to Sloan Bridge from Fish Hatchery Road,
and with multiple trails in the area, many hikers plan a loop to make a day out
of their visit to this corner of the state.
The easy way out(side): Just a little bit further up the road is
the Walhalla State Fish Hatchery: take a self guided tour, go fishing, have a
picnic, and enjoy the natural beauty of the Ellicott Rock Wilderness Area!
Know before you go: A visit to the Walhalla State Fish
Hatchery is free, but if you want to feed the fish, bring quarters for the fish
food dispensers.
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| King Creek Falls |
Burrell’s Ford (A11)
There is so much to do in this remote corner of the state!
In addition to numerous major waterfalls, Burrell’s Ford offers camping,
fishing and picnicking along the Chattooga Wild & Scenic River. For more on
Burrell’s Ford, see my post King Creek Falls and Burrells Ford.
The easy way out(side): Enjoy a hike to King Creek Falls or
Spoonauger Falls.
Know before you go: Burrell’s Ford is free, but can be
popular on weekends. Get there early for parking and first choice of a
campsite!
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| Chattooga River, as seen from the Foothills Trail |
The Highway 107 access points
Headed south on Highway 107 from Sloan Bridge you’ll pass several access points to the Foothills Trail. However, being small dirt lots that only have room for a handful of cars, we’ve grouped them together for this guide.
Nicholson Ford Access: This access point to the Foothills Trail is also the trailhead for hikes to Licklog and Pigpen Falls. The gravel road can sometimes get a little washed out, if you would rather stay on pavement park at Cheohee Road.
Cheohee Road (A12): Just off Highway 107, Cheohee Road is also known as Winding Stairs Rd. A gravel forest road leads to several popular waterfalls and a Forest Service campground.
Jumping Branch Trailhead (A13): The last access point before entering Oconee State Park!
Oconee State Park (A14)
The southern terminus to the Foothills Trail, Oconee also
serves as a connector to Oconee Station via the Palmetto Trail.
The easy way out(side): Enjoy Oconee State Park! From multiple
hiking trails leading to historic sites, views and waterfalls, to putt putt golf,
boat rentals and a beach – Oconee has got it all!!
Know before you go: State Park pass required, hikers must
register at kiosk at Nature Center
The rest of it!
Hikers who complete all 77 miles of The Foothills Trail—from Oconee State Park to Table Rock State Park – are eligible for the Peregrine Award, which was started in 2011 in honor of longtime FTC member Heyward Douglass. The word peregrine comes from the Spanish word peregrino, which means pilgrim. It is also the name of one of Heyward’s favorite birds; he was instrumental in the re-introduction of the Peregrine Falcon to the mountains of Upstate South Carolina. For more information, please visit the Foothills Trail website.
Hopefully this guide helps you identify which sections of
the Foothills Trail are closest to your home, and will assist in figuring out
how you can best get your family out on the trail this summer! Please remember
to hike within your comfort and skill level, and always plan ahead – research
the trail, local regulations, weather, hazards, and what to do in an emergency.
Happy hiking!
Tuesday, March 15, 2022
Latvian guides celebrate 100!
The Latvian guides were established on March 15, 1922, on the heels of the founding of Baden-Powell’s scouts (1910) in England and the Latvian scout organization (1917). When Latvia was illegally occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, the Latvian guides were forced to disband. However, the thousands of refugees fleeing death and labor camps during WWII brought the movement with them, and for the next 50 years the flame would be nurtured by Latvians first in displaced persons camps in Europe, later in Australia, Canada and the United States. When Latvia regained its independence in 1991, I was probably among the last to know; our guide troop was camping in the pine forests of Wisconsin where incidentally, the cub scouts had staged a campfire skit a few days earlier portraying Latvian soldiers defeating Soviet invaders. Over the last thirty years the torch has been gradually passed back to the LSGCO, the scout organization that was reestablished in Latvia in 1991, and the movement remains strong. Today the Latvian scouts are relentlessly working and organizing to help the thousands of refugees arriving daily from Ukraine, history repeating itself as Ukranian Plast scouts flee the same evil aggression as the Latvian scouts did 70 years ago
In the midst of the disheartening news coming from Europe every day, there is still the need to celebrate the good, and so a few days ago, Latvian guides (present and past) and their supporters virtually gathered to celebrate the centennial. We said a prayer, sang along with our sister scouts, and after a brief presentation of the history of the Latvian guide movement were asked what gaidisms – being a guide – means to us.
My immediate answers were along the lines of outdoor skills and friendships, but as I looked through albums and dug through old photographs later that evening, I could admit that the Latvian guides laid the foundations for much of what was to come in my life. From the love of nature that was nurtured by endless camping trips and excursions year-round, to my career of forestry and firefighting inspired by the love of outdoor adventure (all those backpacking and canoe trips, survival courses and ecology lessons), to our family’s explorations of the Blue Ridge Mountain foothills today. My Latvian heritage might have rooted before I gave my guntiņu solījums, but the friendships accumulated over years of jamborees helped nurture my sense of belonging, and today three of my sons are members of the Latvian scouts alongside BSA in hopes they might find a similar sense of place in the diaspora. My marriage might even be the result of scouting; Roberts recounts meeting me at a weekend scout camp, and although I don’t remember the particular moment he loves to narrate when asked how we met (I must have been 11 or 12 that February), looking back at group pictures from a dozen jamborees, camps and other events from a period of about 10 years, I can pick out both of our faces, smiling, unaware that we would be camping together for the next twenty years.
Gaidas are a family affair as well. More than one photo shows me standing with my grandmother, mother, aunts, siblings and cousins during a jamboree: when I received the dzimtenes lielgaida award, during the riverside ceremony where I received my leader’s neckerchief, and at the 10th jamboree in 2010 – which was especially memorable as four generations were represented (I carried 3-month-old Lauris in a carrier the entire week).
The opportunities offered through guides have been incredible also. I've camped with my sister guides from a canoe in northern Ontario, in the mountains of New York, even in the forests of Latvia. We learned to build and sleep in a snow structure, survived a day on an uninhabited island with only what we had in our pockets, decorated Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry Festival of Lights Latvian Christmas tree, performed elaborate theater productions such as Latviešu kovbojs (with the accompaniment of band "The Minnow Buckets," and learned to find the beauty in things, no matter how little we had slept or how badly we had burned dinner on the campfire. And yes, we even learned how not to burn dinner - along with the first aid, the woodsman skills, the navigational abilities, leadership, self-reliance... the list goes on. It will be a rare time outdoors when I do not utilize some aspect of my career as a guide, or reflect on a memory of one of the many wonderful experiences I've had over the years.
Our centennial celebration was also bittersweet. The Latvian guides I belong to, of guides outside of Latvia, have voted to disband as the organization has accomplished what it set out to do; to continue fostering young Latvian women through the principles of scouting, until the scouts and guides in Latvia were free to resume their work. While I completely understand the logic, the reasoning, it has still been heart-wrenching to watch this chapter of the Latvian guides come to a close. There is a sense of loss for all the Latvian girls growing up outside of Latvia who will never sing Kluss miers pār zemi, arms linked with dozens of friends under a starry night sky.
While the Latvian guide configuration may not look the same going forward, it is my hope that gaidas the world over will continue to fulfill the mission to engage the youth of tomorrow, instilling the values of scouting/guides while working towards the good of community and a better tomorrow. I hope you’ll join me in wishing the Latvian guides a happy 100th birthday – arvien modra!
Saturday, September 25, 2021
Remembering Jānis Kukainis
A memorial service for Jānis Kukainis will be held on Friday, October 15th at Centerpoint Church at 12pm. (2345 North 10th Street, Kalamazoo, MI). Memorial contributions in lieu of flowers may be directed to either the Latvian Ev. Lutheran United Church of Kalamazoo or the Kalamazoo Latvian Association. (122 Cherry Hill Drive, Kalamazoo, MI, 49006).
Jānis was a Latvian patriot and was always extremely grateful for the freedom and security America provided. He lived and preached a can-do attitude and valued action over talk. He was elected to roles of increasing responsibility in the Latvian community starting in 1973. He was a Sunday school teacher at the Detroit Latvian School. He led his Latvian academic fraternity Talavija for many years in Michigan and globally. He served as the President and Chairman of the Latvian Center Gaŗezers in Three Rivers, MI. He led the American Latvian Association and then the World Federation of Free Latvians, both volunteer positions. Distrustful from experience of Latvia’s eastern neighbor, Russia, in this last role he led the global campaign to guarantee the security of the newly-independent Latvia by gaining its admission to the NATO Alliance, working with U.S. Senators, Representatives, and the highest levels of Latvian government. In the words of the current President of Latvia, the honorable Egils Levits, “his skillful work in the management of Latvian public organizations for many decades, contributed to ensuring the security and democracy of the restored Latvia, which culminated in the country’s accession to NATO.”
Jānis Kukainis
June 12, 1943 - September 15, 2021Jānis was born in Rīga, Latvia on 12 June 1943. Latvia was under occupation by the Nazis, and the Russian communists would soon return and occupy Latvia until 1991. He fled Latvia from the invading Russian army with an aunt in October 1944, and was fortunate to reunite with his mother and father in a displaced persons camp in Germany. His mother reminded him never to forget the evil that was done to the people of Latvia by the invading armies.
After 6 years in the refugee camps in Germany, his family immigrated to the US through Ellis Island to Gettysburg, Ohio in June 1951 and later settled in Cincinnati in June 1952. The first years in the US were hard for his family, as for many immigrants, but these hardships would forge Jānis into the person he would become. He was raised to be an honorable man and a good citizen. He was a proud Eagle Scout, graduated from Western Hills High School in 1961, and earned a BS Aeronautical Engineering degree from the University of Cincinnati. When President Kennedy announced the United States was going to the moon, Jānis said he was going, too. That led to his Master of Science from the University of Tennessee Space Institute. He later earned an MBA from Michigan State University. He worked as an engineer in Tennessee, and then for 27 years at Ford Motor Company in Dearborn, MI, first as an engineer, then as an executive. He led teams designing prototype automobiles and led the launch team of a production automobile design and initial automobile launch. He was the author/co-author of 20 academic papers on warplane aerodynamics and holds two patents on automobile structure.
Jānis was a Latvian patriot and was always extremely grateful for the freedom and security America provided. He lived and preached a can-do attitude and valued action over talk. He was elected to roles of increasing responsibility in the Latvian community starting in 1973. He was a Sunday school teacher at the Detroit Latvian School. He led his Latvian academic fraternity Talavija for many years in Michigan and globally. He served as the President and Chairman of the Latvian Center Gaŗezers in Three Rivers, MI. He led the American Latvian Association and then the World Federation of Free Latvians, both volunteer positions. Distrustful from experience of Latvia’s eastern neighbor, Russia, in this last role he led the global campaign to guarantee the security of the newly-independent Latvia by gaining its admission to the NATO Alliance, working with U.S. Senators, Representatives, and the highest levels of Latvian government. In the words of the current President of Latvia, the honorable Egils Levits, “his skillful work in the management of Latvian public organizations for many decades, contributed to ensuring the security and democracy of the restored Latvia, which culminated in the country’s accession to NATO.”
Izsaku visdziļāko līdzjūtību Jāņa Kukaiņa ģimenei,viņu mūžībā pavadot. Viņa lietpratīgais darbs latviešu sabiedrisko organizāciju vadībā un trimdas sabiedrībā daudzu gadu demitu garumā,gādājot par atjaunotās Latvijas drošību un demokrātiju,vainagojās ar valsts pievienošanos NATO.
— Egils Levits (@valstsgriba) September 16, 2021
Jānis’ pride was to see others benefit from his mentorship, as he credited his own mentors throughout his life for his success. Above all, family was most important to Jānis. Jānis married Aija Ķeņģis in Kalamazoo in 1971. Aija, who survives Jānis, was born on her family’s farm near Valmiera, Latvia and together they formed a powerful team. They celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary on 26 June 2021 with 175 family and friends. Their marriage was blessed with three children, in whom the couple labored to instill good values. Ginta (Ryan) McNally of Ada, MI; Roberts (Liene) Kukainis of Greenville, SC; and Matīss (Līga) Kukainis of Rīga, Latvia. They have nine grandchildren; Ronald, Matiss and Inara McNally; Lauris, Mikus, Vilis and Zintis Kukainis; and Minna and Jānis Kukainis. Jānis took pride that all of his grandchildren learned the Latvian language and would only accept that they grow up to be good citizens. Surviving Jānis is also his sister Velta (Dr. Guntis) Kalninš of Springfield, OH. Jānis had three godchildren; Dr. Peter Matthews of Chandler, AZ, Asja Kalninš of Springfield, IL and Jānis A. Kukainis of Cincinnati, OH.
Jānis passed away from complications stemming from a heroic two year battle with cancer in Kalamazoo on 15 September 2021, with family by his bedside during his final moments. Preceding him in death were his parents, Roberts and Irene (Peterjanis) Kukainis and brother Valdis (Mary) Kukainis.
Jānis passed away from complications stemming from a heroic two year battle with cancer in Kalamazoo on 15 September 2021, with family by his bedside during his final moments. Preceding him in death were his parents, Roberts and Irene (Peterjanis) Kukainis and brother Valdis (Mary) Kukainis.
Tuesday, September 14, 2021
The Best of SC, as seen on the South Carolina 7 Expedition
Introducing the state of South Carolina, as you’ve never
seen it before! This summer my family teamed up with the SC7 group and Kidding Around Greenville
for the month-long South Carolina 7 Expedition – adventuring our way from the
mountains to the sea, stopping at epic sites along the way. The expedition is
named South Carolina 7 for the seven wonders explored on our journey, including
National Geographic-recognized ecological areas, historical sites and other
natural wonders. The SC7 Expedition invites hikers, kayakers, nature
enthusiasts and your family to enjoy the beauty of South Carolina and the great
outdoors! Preparations are already underway for the 2022 expedition next
July - are you in?
What is South Carolina 7?
The first SC7 expedition took place in July of 2020,
following the Palmetto Trail across the state to highlight the ‘Carolina 7,’
seven geographic wonders unique to the Palmetto State. The purpose of the
expedition was to bring attention to the natural marvels that need our
protection, and the multitude of outdoor adventures that await us in our own
backyard.
Along the way the expedition discussed topics such as
conservation, adult & childhood fitness, outdoor therapy,
floodwater-mitigation issues, and more. In 2021 the SC7 grew to include a
“family expedition” aspect, and the public was invited to join in on the fun of
exploring the state that we call home – from the mountains, to the sea!
Our first encounter with SC7
A little over a year ago, my kids and I set out on a hike
with SC7 one hot July day in Congaree National Park. My son Z had just been
born, and while we had been out hiking with him, I didn’t know what to expect
from the expedition. It turns out I shouldn’t have worried, because as we
wandered in the shade of some of the largest trees in the state, we made new
friends, saw plenty of cool things, and had an incredible summer adventure. (Read about that hike here!)
Afterward, I promised my children that we would make the
effort to explore more over the next year; my husband and I have lived in SC
for twenty years, but have seen surprisingly little of these gorgeous places.
This year, as the expedition expanded to bring families along on the adventure, I teamed up with local family website Kidding Around Greenville as their SC7 correspondent; if you couldn’t join us out on the trail, we brought the trail to you! As we hiked and paddled our way across South Carolina during the month of July, we shared articles, photos, videos and stories about the places we visited; here is a snapshot of the adventure!
The South Carolina 7 Journey 2021
Day 1: OCONEE COUNTY – “Garden of the Gods”
MISSION: Hike the Oconee Passage of the Palmetto Trail,
3.73 miles.
The Oconee Passage of the Palmetto Trail begins in Oconee State Park and ends at Oconee Station State Historic Site, a backcountry military garrison and trading post that dates to the 1790s. A spur trail leads to Station Cove Falls, a majestic 60-foot, tiered cascade.
Alternate plan: Hike to Station Cove Falls from Oconee Station, 1.6 miles.
Day 2: STUMPHOUSE & ISSAQUEENA
MISSION: Explore Stumphouse Tunnel and Issaqueena Falls,
and hike a portion of the Ross Mountain Passage Trail from the Stumphouse
parking area to Ross Mountain Road, 3.0 miles.
Stumphouse Tunnel is an historic railroad tunnel for the
Blue Ridge Railroad, and just to the south is 100-foot Issaqueena Falls. We hiked
3 miles along the Ross Mountain Passage Trail, a connecter from the Stumphouse
Mountain Trail to the Oconee Passage, after which we explored the tunnel and
falls.
Alternate plan: Bring a picnic to enjoy at Stumphouse Tunnel Park, then head across the road to Yellow Branch Falls for a three-mile roundtrip hike to a gorgeous waterfall.
Day 3: EASTATOE PASSAGE
MISSION: Hike the Eastatoe Passage of the Palmetto Trail
beginning at the Keowee Toxaway parking area and ending at Dug Mtn. Angler Access
parking area, 4.6 miles.
Starting on Natural Bridge Trail, this hike climbs through a
mountain forest in the acclaimed Jocassee Gorges, crossing two new bridges
including the brand-new Zeke wilderness trail bridge!
Alternate plan: Park at Dug Mtn. Angler Access parking area and hike in-and-out to Zeke bridge, 2 miles. Or, head to Long Shoals Wayside Park for a natural waterslide adventure!
Day 4: ROUNDTOP MOUNTAIN
MISSION: Hike the Round Top passage of the Palmetto
Trail, 5.0 miles.
This adventure will begin along the Foothills Trail, then
take the Roundtop Mountain Passage of the Palmetto Trail to Sugar Likker Road.
Along the way will be the Rock Mountain overlook; the view of its rock face can
only be seen from this specific vantage point!
Alternate plan: Drive all the way up to the summit of
Sassafras Mountain, and have a picnic at one of the picnic tables after
exploring the summit and observation tower - see Day 5.
Day 5: SASSAFRAS MOUNTAIN – “Roof of the Palmetto State”
Mission: Hike from Chimneytop Gap Trailhead to Sassafras
Mountain along the Foothills Trail, 2.1 miles.
Sassafras Mountain is the highest point in South Carolina,
at 3,533 feet above sea level, earning it the title of 1st Wonder of South
Carolina! Our hike began at the
Chimneytop Gap, and climbed some 1,200ft in elevation to the summit of
Sassafras and the new observation tower.
Alternate plan: Hike to Beech Bottom Falls, a moderate 1.7-mile hike to a viewing platform for the 100-ft waterfall.
- On the Summit of Sassafras Mountain
- Hawk Watch at Caesars Head (Sassafras is another fabulous place to watch the hawk migration in the fall, due to the 360 degree views!)
- Beech Bottom Falls (aka Pinnacle Falls)
Day 6: JOCASSEE GORGES
MISSION: Hike the Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op (Jocassee
Gorges) Passage of the Palmetto Trail, 5.0 miles.
The Jocassee Gorges were named among the “50 of the Last
Great Places” by National Geographic, earning the title 2nd Wonder of South
Carolina. Here, the clear waters of Lake Jocassee wash the base of the
seemingly endless ridges of the Blue Ridge Mountains. “Jocassee” is a Cherokee
word meaning “Place of the Lost One.”
Alternate plan: The Blue Ridge Electric Co-Op Passage starts in Table Rock State Park, which boasts stunning trails such as Pinnacle Mountain, Carrick Creek, and Table Rock Trail. The Foothills Trail can also be accessed from the Park. Spend the day at Table Rock, including a swim in Pinnacle Lake or splashing at the Carrick Creek trail waterfall.
- Exploring Lake Jocassee and its waterfalls
- Devils Fork State Park
- Jumping Off Rock
- The Narrows
- Laurel Fork Heritage Preserve and Virginia Hawkins Falls
- On the Summit of Table Rock
Day 7: CHATTOOGA RIVER RAFTING
MISSION: Raft the Chattooga River
Famed as the location of the movie Deliverance, the
Chattooga River is the crown jewel of southeastern rafting offering the best
and most challenging whitewater in the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountain region.
The Chattooga was named a National Wild and Scenic River in 1974, earning it
the spot of 3rd Wonder of South Carolina. There are various outfitters that
have Chattooga River rafting packages for children as young as 8.
Alternate plan: Head to Burrells Ford for a day exploring waterfalls, or to Bull Sluice on the Chattooga River to get your feet wet and watch some adventurous paddlers running the rapids!
- The Wild and Scenic Chattooga River and Trail
- King Creek Falls and Burrells Ford
- Oppossum Creek Falls
- Spoonauger Falls
- Bull Sluice on the Chattooga River
Day 8: MIDDLE SALUDA PASSAGE
MISSION: Hike from Jones Gap State Park to Rainbow Falls
and back, 4.0 miles.
Continuing our exploration of the Jocassee Gorges, we hiked
the Middle Saluda passage of the Palmetto Trail to Rainbow Falls, one of the
many scenic waterfalls in the area.
Alternate plan: To skip the steep climb to Rainbow Falls, hike to Jones Gap Falls instead, 3.5 miles.
Day 9: KINGS MOUNTAIN NATIONAL & STATE MILITARY PARKS
MISSION: Explore the historic battlefield, and hike the
Battlefield Trail, 1.5 miles.
Step back into history at Kings Mountain! The battle of
Kings Mountain was fought on October 7th, 1780, and was an important American
victory during the Revolutionary War; it was the first major patriot victory to
occur after the British invasion of Charleston.
Alternate plan: Head to the living history farm at Kings Mountain State Park and check out the two-story farmhouse, barn, smokehouse, carpenter/blacksmith shop, sorghum mill and cooker, corncrib, and cotton gin. Or if you’ve got some epic views in mind, head to neighboring Crowders Mountain State Park.
Day 10: CROFT PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the Croft Passage of the Palmetto Trail,
3.5 miles
The Croft Passage is a roller coaster for hikers, cyclists,
and equestrians that passes through historic Croft State Park. The day’s
adventure will take hikers to and around Lake Johnson.
Alternate plan: Hike the 1.5-mile Nature Trail instead, stopping for a break on the banks of Fairforest Creek.
Day 11: GLENN SPRINGS PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the Glenn Springs Passage of the Palmetto Trail, 5.0 miles.
In the 19th century, Glenn Springs was known for the health
benefits of its mineral waters. Now listed on the National Register, the
historic district includes 20 buildings from 1840-1940 as well as the site of a
popular resort hotel.
Alternate plan: Visit Glendale Shoals Preserve, a 13-acre natural area on the site of a former mill that has trails, a dam, a waterfall, and the trestle of an old railroad that now serves as a pedestrian bridge.
Day 12: BLACKSTOCK BATTLEFIELD/MUSGROVE MILL
MISSION: Hike the Blackstock Battlefield Passage of the
Palmetto Trail, and explore Musgrove Mill Battlefield and Historic Site, 1.6
miles.
Blackstock Battlefield is situated along a remote section of
the Tyger River, where Revolutionary War patriots defeated the British in 1780.
Nearby, the vastly outnumbered Patriot militia outlasted the Loyalists in a
surprising victory in the bloody Battle of Musgrove Mill. Blackstock
Battlefield is the newest addition to Musgrove Mill State Historic Site!
Alternate plan: Cool down at the Horseshoe Falls swimming hole, after hiking the 1.7-mile Musgrove Mill Battlefield Trail to learn about the 1780 battle.
Day 13: ENOREE PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the second portion of the Enoree Passage,
4.5 miles.
The Enoree Passage of the Palmetto Trail contains 36
continuous miles of trail in Sumter National Forest, linking Newberry, Laurens,
and Union counties.
Alternate plan: Visit Rose Hill Plantation State Historic Site to learn about important themes and key events in South Carolina’s history: the cotton boom, secession and Civil War, slavery and sharecropping, emancipation and the fight for civil rights. Tour a plantation home, walk the historic landscaped grounds, or take a short hike through the forest to the Tyger River.
Day 14: NEWBERRY PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the urban portion of the Newberry Passage,
from milepost 5 to milepost 2, 3.0 miles.
The Newberry Passage of the Palmetto Trail takes the visitor along shaded
sidewalks passing antebellum homes: Newberry College (founded in 1856), several
historic buildings such as the Old Court House and the Opera House and a
renovated Main Street with shops, cafes, bars & ice cream parlors.
Alternate plan: Head to Ninety Six National Historic Site, where the 18th century comes alive. This site is managed by the National Park Service, and interprets the history of the area: the Cherokee Indian fight to keep their land, the struggle of the settlers in the harsh backcountry, two towns and a trading post, and two Revolutionary War battles that claimed over 100 lives.
Day 15: PEAK TO PROSPERITY
MISSION: Hike the Peak to Prosperity Passage from Hope
Station to the Alston Trailhead, 3.5 miles.
A total of 14 wooden trestles cross Crims Creek along the
Passage that crosses through the heart of the area knows as the Dutch Fork. The
highlight of the Peak to Prosperity Passage is the Broad River trestle, an 1890
railroad bridge that spans 1,100+ feet and offers fantastic views.
Alternate plan: Bring a picnic and a fishing pole for
some time at the Alston trailhead; you can still take in the views from the
Broad River trestle, without much of a hike.
Day 16: FORT JACKSON PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the Fort Jackson Passage of the PalmettoTrail from milepost 11.5 at Century Division Road to the McCrady Army National
Training Center trailhead, 4.5 miles.
Fort Jackson was established in 1917 to answer the call of
WWI. The Fort was named in honor of
Major General Andrew Jackson, a native son of the Palmetto State and seventh
president of the United States. Today the installation covers 52,000 acres and
is the Army’s largest basic training center. This passage offers a great
diversity in both plants and animals.
Alternate plan: Head to Sesquicentennial State Park for a
day of fishing, hiking, and even a splash pad. This park offers canoeing, bike
trails and camping.
Day 17: CONGAREE NATIONAL PARK – “Redwoods of the East”
MISSION: Hike the Weston Lake Loop Trail through Congaree
National Park, 4.4 miles.
Congaree National Park contains the largest remaining area
of old growth bottomland hardwood forest in the United States, along with the
tallest known specimens of 15 species! The Congaree is currently home to six
national champions, and 23 state champion trees, earning it the title of 4th
Wonder of South Carolina.
Alternate plan: Spend the day on the water, kayaking the
Cedar Creek Canoe Trail.
Related articles:
- Congaree National Park
- A walk on the wild side in Congaree NP
- Congaree National Park with the SC 7 Wonders Expedition
Day 18: HISTORIC CAMDEN
MISSION: Hike the nature trail at Historic Camden site,
and explore the history and the battlefield sites.
Camden was essential to the British plan to control SC, but
soon after the fall of Charles Town and the defeat at Waxhaws in May of 1780,
the Patriots suffered a devastating loss at the Battle of Camden. Although
disastrous for the American cause, it ushered in changes in military leadership
that altered the course of the war.
Alternate plan: Visit Historic Camden, the 18th-century
property of the city’s founder Joseph Kershaw and the fortified Revolutionary
War-era town occupied by British General Cornwallis and Lord Rawdon’s men from
1780-81.
Day 19: SANTEE INDIAN MOUND FIELDS
MISSION: Kayak from Carolina King Retreat & Marina to
Santee Indian Mound and Fort Watson Site, and explore the Santee Indian Mounds
at Fort Watson, approximately 2 miles.
The Santee Indians were part of the Mississippian culture,
living along the Santee River for thousands of years. The mound located on the
Bluff Unit at Santee National Wildlife Refuge served as the ceremonial site and
a burial for the Native American tribe, and is estimated to be at least 1,000
years old. At the end of the 18th century British troops used the site as an
outpost, as it provided an elevated vantage point overlooking the Santee River
and the road to Charleston.
Alternate plan: Explore Santee State Park and Lake
Marion! The park is known for the fishing, but there’s plenty more to do,
including biking and hiking trails, and pontoon boat tours of the flooded
cypress forest on Lake Marion.
Day 20: MEMORIAL SERVICE FOR FRANCIS MARION at BELLE ISLE PLANTATION CEMETERY
MISSION: Participate in a wreath laying ceremony at the
gravesite Francis Marion at Belle Isle Cemetery.
Belle Isle Plantation Cemetery is the historic site of the
burial ground of Francis Marion. Also known as the Swamp Fox, Marion served in
the American Revolutionary War and is considered one of the fathers of modern
guerrilla warfare.
Alternate plan: Visit Lewisfield, the 1774 Plantation
that was the site of a major skirmish between British and Patriot forces during
the Revolutionary War.
Day 21: LAKE MOULTRIE PASSAGE
MISSION: Hike the Lake Moultrie Passage of the PalmettoTrail from Bonneau Beach to Hwy 52, 5 miles.
The Lake Moultrie Passage follows the eastern and northern
shores of the 60,000-acre lake, which was created in the early 1940s by the
South Carolina Public Service Authority.
Alternate plan: Enjoy Lake Moultrie by picnicking at
scenic Overton Park, or hiking and biking in the Sandy Beach Wildlife
Management Area.
Day 22: CYPRESS GARDENS
MISSION: Hike and explore the trails through the swamp
and gardens, 3.5 miles.
Cypress Gardens is a 170-acre preserve and gardens located
in Moncks Corner South Carolina. The centerpiece of the garden is the 80-acre
blackwater bald cypress/tupelo swamp, surrounded with both boat and foot
trails.
Alternate plan: Explore Audubon’s Francis Beidler Forest,
the 18,000-acre bird and wildlife sanctuary known for containing the world’s
largest virgin cypress-tupelo swamp forest; enjoy thousand-year-old trees,
wildlife, and the quiet flow of blackwater, all from the safety of a 1.75-mile
boardwalk. Or, head a little further south to Caw Caw Interpretive Center, the
former rice plantation that today is managed as a low-impact wildlife preserve
with over six miles of trails including elevated boardwalks through wetlands.
Day 23: FORT FAIR LAWN REVOLUTIONARY WAR FORTIFICATION
MISSION: Hike/explore the grounds of the historic
Revolutionary War Fort.
Of the more than thirty forts constructed in South Carolina
during the American Revolutionary war, only two remain in their original
condition: Ninety Six National Historic Site and Fort Fair Lawn.
Alternate plan: Explore Old Santee Canal Park, the
195-acre park that commemorates the building of the first true canal in America
and showcases the area’s extensive history and habitat. Visitors to the park
will see Stony Landing House, built in 1843, and can hike four miles of
boardwalks that meander through the quiet backwaters of Biggin Creek and its
surrounding swamp, making Old Santee a popular destination for bird watchers,
hikers and paddlers.
DAY 24: SWAMP FOX PASSAGE – CANOE WADBOO CREEK
MISSION: Explore the Wadboo Swamp from the Fox Passage of
the Palmetto Trail via canoe along Wadboo Creek Canoe Trail from the canoe
launch near mile post 43 to the intersection with SC 402.
The Swamp Fox Passage traverses four distinct ecosystems
through Francis Marion National Forest, including swamps made famous as
hideouts of Revolutionary War hero Francis Marion, the mature long-leaf pine
forests that are home to the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker, and grassy
savannas with abundant wildlife.
Alternate plan: In addition to canoe and kayak trails,
Francis Marion National Forest offers hiking, biking, and motorcycle trails,
and even rifle ranges and a boat launch. For a map of recreational
opportunities, visit the USFS page. (https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/scnfs/recarea/?recid=47055)
Day 25: AWENDAW PASSAGE HIKE
MISSION: Hike the Awendaw Passage of the Palmetto Trail
from the boat launch at trail post 4 to the Buck Hall Recreation Area
Trailhead.
Awendaw Passage is the coastal terminus of the mountains-to-sea
Palmetto Trail, traversing maritime forest with scenic vistas of the Lowcountry
salt marsh along Awendaw Creek, emerging to palmettos at the Buck Hall
campground.
Alternate plan: Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge
houses a rich history across the refuge’s maze of tidal creeks, marshes, and
barrier islands, and provides a wide range of recreation including fishing,
wildlife viewing, interpretive tours, environmental education, hiking,
shelling, and beach combing.
Day 26: BROOKGREEN GARDENS
MISSION: Explore and hike the numerous nature trails in
the preserve.
Brookgreen Gardens is a sculpture garden and wildlife
preserve, located just south of Murrells Inlet. The 9,100-acre property
includes several themed gardens with American figurative sculptures placed in
them, the Lowcountry Zoo, and trails through several ecosystems. Opened in 1932, Brookgreen is built on four
former rice plantations, taking its name from the former Brookgreen Plantation.
Alternate plan: Just across the road from Brookgreen Gardens is Huntington Beach State Park with its beaches, sea-breeze camping, surf fishing and some of the top bird-watching on the East Coast. Visit Atalaya, the picturesque, Moorish-style winter home of Archer and Anna Hyatt Huntington, or head to the park’s freshwater lake to search for alligators.
DAY 27: EDISTO RIVER
MISSION: Kayak the Edisto River from Mars Old Field
Landing to Givhan’s Ferry Landing, 6.4 miles.
The Edisto River’s name originated from the word edisto, the
Native American word for “black.” It refers to the dark color of the river,
caused by the decaying leaves and other plant material. The Edisto is
considered the longest free-flowing blackwater river in the United States and
is home to numerous rare, threatened, and endangered species such as the red-cockaded
woodpecker, southern bald eagle, wood stork, loggerhead turtle, and short-nosed
sturgeon. The Edisto River is the 5th Wonder of South Carolina.
Alternate plan: Get a taste of the Edisto River at
Givhans Ferry State Park, where you can hike the 1.5-mile River Bluff Nature
Trail, or go for a swim to cool down before settling in at a campfire at the
tent campground.
Day 28: ACE BASIN
MISSION: Explore the Ace Basin via ferry.
The Ashepoo, Combahee and Edisto Basin (abbreviated ACE
Basin) is one of the largest undeveloped estuaries along the Atlantic Coast of
the United States. The 350,000 acres are known for the marshes, wetlands,
hardwood forests, and riverine systems, earning it the title 6th Wonder of
South Carolina.
Alternate plan: There are 14 public parks, preserves and
wildlife management areas to choose from in the area, including several state
parks and the Ernest F. Hollings ACE Basin National Wildlife Refuge. Visit the
refuge office, a former rice plantation house built in 1828, which is one of a
few antebellum mansions that survived the civil war in the ACE Basin area and
today is on the National Register of Historical Places.
Day: 29 BULL ISLAND
MISSION: Explore the natural wonders and historic
significance of Bull Island via Charter Boat.
Bull Island is one of South Carolina’s most beautiful and
remote places. The largest of four barrier islands found within the Cape Romain
National Wildlife Refuge, Bull Island is a 5,000-acre maritime forest with
fresh and brackish water impoundments and a beach area. The six-and-a-half-mile
uninhabited island remains virtually untouched and is home to countless
wildlife and endangered species and has a world-renowned reputation for its
bird life, earning it the title 7th Wonder of South Carolina.
Alternate plan: Head to the Sewee Visitor &
Environmental Education Center for everything from interactive exhibits
featuring forest to sea ecosystems, to a live endangered red wolf viewing area
with scheduled feeding and interpretive programs!
Day 30: COOPER RIVER
MISSION: Explore the blackwater of the Cooper River via
SCUBA to search for Megalodon shark teeth fossils.
The final exploration of the expedition will be black water
diving for fossils in the Cooper River in South Carolina’s Lowcountry. For this
portion of the expedition you must be certified in scuba, however that doesn’t
mean you can’t head out on your own to do a little beachcombing…
Alternate plan: Shark teeth and fossils can be found on
most of South Carolina’s beaches, and even inland along rivers, streams and
drainage areas. Some beaches might offer better opportunities than others so it
pays to do some research ahead of time, and hiring an outfitter or charter can
help ensure a great time for your family.
Another option is to visit the sharks themselves at the
South Carolina Aquarium overlooking the Charleston Harbor. The Aquarium is home
to more than 10,000 plants and animals including North American river otters,
loggerhead sea turtles, alligators, great blue herons, owls, lined seahorses,
jellyfish, pufferfish, green moray eels, horseshoe crabs, sea stars, pythons,
and sharks. The largest exhibit is the Great Ocean Tank, which extends from the
first to the third floor of the Aquarium and is the deepest tank in North
America!
Higher Ground
Coming soon is the documentary “Higher Ground,” exploring
South Carolina’s Seven Wonders and the Local Impact of a Changing Climate.
Filmed during the 2020 expedition, “Higher Ground” premiered during the 2021
expedition; you can watch the “Higher Ground” trailer on vimeo. For more
information on how to view the feature length film, please visit the SC7
website.
SC7 Expedition Trailer from SC National Heritage Corridor on Vimeo.
How to join the expedition?
First, visit the SC7 website to see what upcoming events
have been planned. In the coming year SC7 is planning to have the largest
litter pick-up in the history of the state, as well as work on rebuilding the
reefs along the coast. July 2021 is already in the works, and will feature
events hosted by local organizations throughout the month.
You can also join the expedition by hitting the trail now,
and experiencing South Carolina’s wonders for yourself. Check out the Digital Field Guide; it lists trailheads, park entry costs and other important information. Make
sure the hike is within your family’s abilities, and pack as needed to stay
hydrated and comfortable. If it’s a one-way hike, you might need to figure out
a shuttle or make the decision to hike only halfway and then return to the
trailhead the way you came. And don’t forget to invite a friend or two along
for the adventure!
If you have kids looking to join the fun, download the
Outdoor Adventure Book that features additional trail descriptions, activities,
and information pertinent to the sights along the way. Your family might also be interested in the Flora & Fauna Guide, that contains descriptions of some of the common wildlife you might see on your adventures. And then all that’s left
is to have fun!
The Adventure Continues…
There is so much to do and see in South Carolina that it
will take far longer than just a month to get to it all. And, while it is
exciting to join an expedition to explore your way across the state, it can be
just as thrilling to discover new places with your children and family. It is
our hope that the destinations featured here can serve as an outline to get you
started, a framework for travel and exploration across the state!! Happy adventuring, South Carolina!
Follow the South Carolina 7 Expedition on Facebook
SC7 on Instagram: @sc7wonders
Check out this article on the 2021 expedition that appeared
on the National Park Service website: Exploring the Palmetto State's Seven Wonders
SC7 was also featured in this article: Palmetto Pride and SC7 clear nearly 2,300 pounds of trash in July
Portions of this article first appeared on Kidding Around Greenville as See South Carolina’s Top 30 Beautiful Natural Spots thisJuly with the SC7 Expedition.
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