Nine Times Forest, a.k.a. Big Rock Mountain

Now that autumn has descended to the Upstate, we’re revisiting our favorite local spots to watch the progression of color as we fall into winter. One of those is Nine Times, the area named for the creek named for the nine bridges that had to be built to gain access to Nine Times Preserve, beloved for the seasonal display of wildflowers.

Also see my posts:
Nine Times Preserve
Spring Comes to Nine Times Preserve

However, just across E Preston McDaniel Road from the Preserve is an area with a similar name, but with a much different claim to fame; Nine Times Forest is known for its rock climbing and spectacular views of the Upstate. 

Located near Pickens, Nine Times Forest (a.k.a. Big Rock) was protected by Naturaland Trust in 2013 and was opened to climbers in 2017. A grant from R.E.I. partially funded the construction of a parking lot off Big Rock Lake Road, allowing easier access than the Nine Times Preserve trailhead which had provided entry up until then. Then, in 2019 after the Carolina Climbers Coalition contributed another $5,000, Naturaland Trust was able to secure a 1-acre lot north of the new parking lot – creating a buffer for future expanded parking. Big Rock is the only significant cliff open year-round in SC; it faces south and can therefore be a destination during the winter months. With around 50 routes and several hundred boulder problems, there is plenty of room to spread out. And while the trails to the top of Big Rock Mountain (1,801 ft in elevation) do require scrambling up some more challenging spots, it is still accessible to non-climbers (such as my family) who do not have the safety equipment for rock climbing. 

Two main trailheads and one or two more informal trailheads provide access to the network of trails in Nine Times Forest. The main trailhead is on Nine Times Preserve, on the corner of E Preston McDaniels Rd. and Nine Times Creek Rd. From the gravel lot, cross E Preston McDaniels to enter Nine Times Forest. You’ll see the creek trail fork to the left; also called Appalachian Lumber Trail, it parallels E Preston McDaniel Road and begins and ends at connection points to the Cedar Rock Trail on the opposite side of the road. Continue up the wide gravel road instead, and when you reach the power lines you will have two options: take a left on Naturaland Way that climbs up into the Gap, or hop onto Big Rock Mountain Summit Trail and begin your ascent up (700ft of up, to be precise) to the summit. About ¼ mile before reaching the top there is an intersection with the Gap trail, and then at the top Big Rock Mountain Road provides access to the rest of the trails within Nine Times Forest – Pink Mountain is just across the gap and is 4 feet taller than the Big Rock summit. All Trails lists this route as 2.2 miles round trip, though with all the little detours we took for scenic vantage points we tracked almost 3 miles on our most recent visit. Loops that include Pink Mountain and Big Rock will be upwards of 6 miles…

An unassuming trailhead...

The second main trailhead is at the newly constructed parking lot off Big Rock Lake Road, coordinates here: 34.954252, -82.787584. Follow the trail up to the base of Big Rock and shortly thereafter hop on the Big Rock Mountain Summit Trail to finish your ascent to the summit. This option is shorter – somewhere around 1-mile round trip – but still climbs about 500ft of elevation. The last stretch of trail to the summit has the most scrambles up rocks, but this route has a few extra challenging sections. My children have been able to navigate without problems, but it helps to have an extra set of hands, especially if you have a little in a carrier. As always, exercise caution, hike within your limits, and be aware that there are inherent dangers involved in hiking in the mountains of the Upstate. Once you venture off trail all bets are off – there are no guardrails protecting you from a fall, and steep drop-offs occur in many places! 

On the summit of Big Rock Mountain you’ll find several strategically placed rocks forming a table of sorts on a level spot, perfect for a picnic. We have celebrated my birthday here with cheese and crackers, as well as taken a breather from the baby carrier; it is a safe spot for kids to run around, a gently-sloping playing field for a break from the steep sections. There are views, although the most spectacular views are from short spur trails on your climb up (though I repeat my warning about getting off-trail… some of these spur trails are used by climbers who are clipped in to safety harnesses!). 

Every time I hike this trail, I find a new view of Upstate SC to admire. While I am still on the hunt for the spur trail that will give me a view of the ‘mushroom rock’ chimney I once saw in a photo, I am grateful for these mountains that are right here in our backyard – no need to venture to North Carolina for blue ridge views! 

For more information, please see the following resources:

• Naturaland Trust’s Nine Times Forest and Big Rock pages 
• Hikingproject.com has a good overview map of the various trails and parking areas on the Forest and Preserve
• Carolina Climbers page for Big Rock 

The dunes of Jockey's Ridge

The wind coming off the Atlantic Ocean has played a primary role in the history of the Outer Banks. It provided the Wright Brothers with needed lift at the Kill Devil Hills site of first flight, yet it also blows in hurricanes and storms so powerful that some theorize might have been a factor in the disappearance of English Colony on nearby Roanoke Island. Whether this is fact or fiction, what we do know is that the barrier islands have been shaped – physically and historically – by these winds, and nowhere is this more evident than at Jockey’s Ridge State Park.

Jockey's Ridge is the tallest active sand dune system in the Eastern United States, the shifting winds constantly reshaping the dunes. Nags Head Woods and Jockey's Ridge were designated a National Natural Landmark in 1974 by the National Park Service. Today, the park is a favorite spot for flying kites, sandboarding (with permit), hang-gliding (through vendor) and watching sunsets, and the trails and visitor center provide insight into the history and ecology of this unique region.

You’ll want to start your visit at the visitor center & museum. After exploring the exhibits and picking up maps, take some water and sunscreen and head out onto the dunes on the 360ft boardwalk. From a viewing platform you can get a good perspective of the expansive sands of the park’s 420 acres before heading off into the dunes.

Jockey's Ridge encompasses three distinct ecological environments: dunes, maritime thicket, and the Roanoke Sound estuary. We explored the dunes first, and although for every two steps you take up the dune it’s one step back, don’t let that discourage you from climbing to the top of the biggest dune. There you’ll have a view of sand, surf, and sea - from the Sound all the way to the ocean. The park’s dunes consist of three peaks, and due to the constantly shifting sand, plants and animals do not live there. Around the base of the dunes you’ll find grasses and plants, providing habitat for small animals and insects. Don’t forget to bring shoes (the sand gets hot!), sunscreen, your sunglasses, water bottles, and a kite!

For a closer look at Roanoke Sound head out on the 1.5 mile Tracks in the Sand trail. The trail starts off with a short section through a forest of shrubs. The maritime thicket grows best in areas protected by the dune, which provides protection from wind and salt blown off the ocean. The live oaks, persimmons, red cedar, wax myrtle, bayberry, sweet gum, red oaks and pines are stunted by the effects of the wind and salt, causing them to look like shrubs. Fox, deer and raccoons live in the thickets, but you’re more likely to spot birds and a variety of insects.

The trail crosses a wide section of dune before reentering the forest, and eventually loops for a section along Roanoke Sound. At the shoreline, there is an area of restored marsh where nesting ospreys visit during the summer months, and the views of the dunes and sound are magnificent no matter the season. The trail is a Kids in Parks TRACK Trail, and brochures are available at the trailhead or inside the visitor center. A section of the North Carolina Mountains-to-sea trail is also located within the park.

The Sound-side of the park offers a completely different experience: sunbathing, wading, paddling and the 1-mile Soundside Nature Trail that tours the wetlands, grassy dunes and maritime thickets of the southern corner of the park. The Roanoke Sound Estuary is a rich habitat for a variety of plant, animal and bird life; the sound provides nesting areas for waterfowl, serves as a fish nursery, and is home to the blue crab. Windsurfers and kiteboarders are a common sight, and the sun setting over the sound often brings a crowd.

Events such as this lights on kites festival are a regular occurrance at the park

Legend says the park was named as a result of the early inhabitant’s practice of capturing wild ponies and racing them on the flat surface at the base of the dune, while the steep sides of the ridge served as a grandstand of sorts for spectators. Horses are no longer free to run on this portion of the Outer Banks - you’ll have to head north of Corolla to see the remaining population of wild Spanish mustangs. However, there’s still plenty of motion to be seen from a perch on the ridge: the dunes endlessly shifting, boats on the water, kites in the air… Jockey’s Ridge truly is alive, and a must-see for visitors on the Outer Banks.

Pinnacle Mountain, 1 year after the fire

The Pinnacle Mountain fire started on November 9^th last year, and in less than a month had blackened over 10,000 acres in and around Table Rock State Park. Although most trails in the area were closed and much of the Upstate smoked out, the fire was finally contained with no structures lost. Historically the Southern Appalachians burn during drought years, so fire on Pinnacle Mountain is nothing new... it had just been a few years since such a high-intensity burn had occurred within State Park borders, and I was curious as to state of things now that a year had passed.

We jumped on the Blue Ridge Electric Co-op Passage of the Palmetto Trail, passing through an enormous field of boulders to reach the section of Foothills Trail that heads up to Pinnacle Mountain. Most foot traffic comes via the Table Rock Mountain State Park Nature Center – following Carrick Creek Nature Trail up Pinnacle Mountain Trail, or on Ridge Trail from Table Rock. From the Nature Center to the summit of Pinnacle is more than 7 miles round-trip, coming in from Sassafras Mountain might be around 10.

From the Foothills Trail you actually have to take a left on Pinnacle Mountain to reach the summit (adding about ½ mile to your hike), but the 3,425 ft peak does not have any views. Taking a right on Pinnacle Mountain Trail would take you to Bald Knob (also about ½ mile detour) and fantastic views, but either route will add a significant climb in elevation. What’s so special to go through all the trouble? Pinnacle Mountain is the tallest mountain contained entirely within the state of South Carolina (Sassafras Mountain at 3,563 feet is partially in NC), and the views near the top overlook both the Jocassee Gorges and the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area, which remain relatively untouched by development.

Coming up on Pinnacle Mountain along the ridge from the south, the first signs of the fire were scorch marks on trees, easily visible because the trail had been used as a fire break for a short distance. The proximity to the line indicated this had been a back-burn, meaning firefighters had intentionally used a controlled fire to create black that acted as a fire break for the advancing flames. The low intensity fire didn’t leave much evidence other than some partially-burned branches and the occasional charred stump of a tree that had died long before the fire.

It was once we had ascended the ridge and hiked a distance from the firelines that we saw evidence of a higher-intensity fire. The granitic balds had white char marks where layers of organic matter had been scorched off, and the jack pine, although standing, were mostly dead. However, I wasn’t surprised to see the brightly colored autumn foliage of deciduous tree seedlings – an indication that the soil had not been sterilized. The fire simply opened up the canopy and cleared the way for new growth.

In addition to tree seedlings, the grasses and herbaceous plants had really taken off. Nourished by an enriched soil and provided unimpeded access to sunlight, a year’s worth of growth was highly encouraging, serving as a reminder that fire is the natural order for our mountains.

Although in some places the granitic balds had been burned clear of vegetation, in most the moss and lichen communities were left intact, the fire naturally stopped by the expanse of bare rock and the lower intensity back-burns not having much an effect on the moist seep areas. We found prickly pear cactus, grasses and even an occasional wildflower still blooming in November, and marveled at the spectacular views which stretched from the Pinnacle Mountain summit all the way to Lake Jocassee.

It was on one of these granitic balds that more than 600 prehistoric petroglyphs were discovered in the late 1990s. The petroglyphs are believed to be created by the Hopewell culture (pre-dating the Cherokees) and are believed to be between 1,500 and 3,500 years old. What is now the Foothills Trail that follows the spine of the escarpment from Jones Gap to Oconee State Park was once a highway that primitive men and early European settlers used to cross the into the rich valleys of North Carolina. I don’t find it surprising that the granite still holds evidence of these early travelers; instead, I am astounded that the petroglyphs were not identified sooner, as close as they are to such a well-traveled path.

These scars on Pinnacle Mountain – left by fire and man – remained in my thoughts on the hike down. The fire breaks and raw earth as discordant with their surroundings as the white char marks on the granite balds, the circular petroglyphs as symmetrical as the dimples left on the granite by decades of water eroding rock. We descended through the hardwoods lit ablaze, but by sunlight and season, not flames, and I wondered at the wonder of it all. A thick carpet of leaves crunching underfoot accompanied us as Vilis loudly sang “everything is awesome”…  and for once, I felt like joining in. There, on Pinnacle Mountain, just 45 minutes from home – you can experience the millennia.

Sunset Rock, Highlands NC

The gravel road leading up Satulah Mountain is rutted and narrow, the risky business of passing oncoming traffic only manageable in the rare wider section of road. Luckily it is mostly traversed on foot, although the adventurous sort will drive up the ½ mile to a small opening that allows for a turnaround. It is not a challenging hike, nor lengthy – but it is one you will want to take if you’re in Highlands, North Carolina.

Sunset Rock is located in Ravenel Park and is managed by the Highlands-Cashiers Land Trust. Granite domes are unique to the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment, and are known for having a mixture of bare rock, steep cliffs and shallow vegetation. The Highlands Plateau has also been designated by National Audubon Society as one of the Important Bird Areas of the world, and birds of high conservation priority found in the area include the Canada Warbler, Black-throated Blue Warbler, Hooded Warbler, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Golden-crowned Kinglet and the Red-breasted Nuthatch.

From the main intersection of Main Street with N 4^th Street in Highlands, NC, head east on Main until the road turns into Horse Cove Road and follow it just past the intersection with Gibson Street. You’ll see a parking area for Sunset Rock/Ravenel on your right, and the gravel road to the park takes you up to the trailhead.

From the opening at the top of the road, look to your right for the trailhead that leads out to sunset rock – you’ll recognize it by the large info sign. Just a few hundred feet later you’ll emerge at the top of the world… The exposed rock face provides views of downtown Highlands and the surrounding mountains, and is named for what else but the excellent sunsets! There are a few park benches to soak in the views, but no safety railings – keep the kids close!

Whether you’re in town for the Highlands Food & Wine Festival, headed to Whiteside Mountain, or on your way north to one of the multiple waterfalls on the Mountain Waters Scenic Byway, Sunset Rock is worth the trip – especially if you park at the base and enjoy the walk up!

Pilot Rock on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Morning view from Chestnut Cove overlook

A trail for mountain bikers, rock climbers and hikers – this challenging route on the Pisgah National Forest has it all! With a trailhead on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Pilot Rock trail is ideal for a fall hike - cooler temperatures and vibrant autumn scenery your companion for a memorable excursion into Pisgah National Forest.

View from the Laurel Mountain Connector

There are several pull-offs in a short stretch past the Buck Springs Tunnel including the Buck Springs trailhead, Mount Pisgah Overlook & trailhead at MP 407.6, Frying Pan Mountain Trail at MP 408.5, and the campgrounds, Pisgah Inn and trailhead at Mount Pisgah, MP 408.6. Our hike to Pilot Rock started at the Buck Spring Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway, although it is possible to connect via the Pisgah Inn. Facing south from the Parkway from the parking lot a trail heads off to your right, and 500 feet later you’ll have reached the site of George Vanderbilt’s hunting lodge. In addition to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, Vanderbilt owned 471 acres here in Buck Springs Gap where he constructed an enormous log hunting lodge; the stone foundation of the spring house is still visible today.

Buck Springs Lodge spring house foundation

When the Blue Ridge Parkway was constructed in 1961, the lodge and outbuildings were razed. We read about the lodge and site on the informational placard, and admired the grand view before continuing on. Soon we reached a split in the trail, the Laurel Mountain Trail following the ridge to the left while continuing straight takes you to the Buck Spring Trail which climbs over the top of Little Bald Mountain. Connecting Pisgah Inn with Buck Spring Lodge is a section of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, and together this network of trails allows for a small loop – we followed the white blazes of Buck Springs on the way in and the Laurel Mountain Connector on the way back from Pilot Rock.

Note - the milage on this sign is incorrect, it is NOT 2.3 miles to Yellow Gap from this point

From the Mountains-to-Sea Trail intersection with Pilot Rock Trail it is 3.6 miles south to FS 1206 (Yellow Gap Road), although we would be returning once reaching Pilot Rock. The hike starts with an uphill climb to reach the summit of Little Bald Mountain, a grass savanna that is home to Ruffed Grouse and features views to the west, especially now that the trees had started dropping their leaves.

From summit of Little Bald

From Little Bald the trail descends down a dry ridge until reaching the top of Pilot Rock - 2.5 miles and 1,300 feet later. First we passed the intersection with Buck Springs/Pilot Rock Trail, and then following orange blazes through tunnels of rhododendron the descent became rather rocky, slowing our pace as we paid careful attention to our footing on the leaf-covered trail. The granite and shale at this elevation is the result of thousands of years of erosion attacking the pluton, and soon after the forest transitions to hardwoods, the fall foliage ablaze despite the cloud cover.

Along this stretch we found mature American chestnut trees, the spiky seed husks littering the trail. Before the species was devastated by the chestnut blight these giants filled the Appalachians, numbering in the billions and providing an important food source for wildlife as well as livestock. At the beginning of the 20th century the fungal pathogen responsible for chestnut blight was accidentally imported into the US from Asia, and it rapidly spread throughout eastern forests, leaving only the rare American chestnut standing by the 1950s. The fungus enters the tree through an injury in the bark, and spreads, killing tissue as it advances - effectively girdling the tree. Despite being infected, the chestnuts we saw were survivors; it was incredible to see these trees ‘in the wild’. (There has been much success in crossing the American chestnut with the blight-resistant Chinese chestnut – for more on the work being done to reintroduce the American chestnut to the eastern forests, please visit the American Chestnut Foundation’s website.)

American chestnut tree and seed husk

Soon the trail gets steep, each switchback a reminder that you’ll soon be going the other way to return to the trailhead. A rock outcrop gave us the perfect spot for lunch, and as we fueled up we took in the views over the Pisgah.

This rock outcrop makes a good lunch stop

According to the Forest Service website, there are two access points to the rock face, which at this point on the trail will be on your left. From this vantage point the breathtaking 180° views include Funneltop Mountain, the Pink Beds Valley, and the Cradle of Forestry. Down below is Yellow Gap Road; if you kept heading downhill you would descend another 600 feet in elevation over the course of a mile, emerging on the Forest Service road at Grassy Lot Gap where there is room for a couple of cars to park. On the way is also the intersection with the Pilot Rock Extension spur trail, which provides access to the rock’s base for rock climbers looking to scale the pluton.

However, the ascent back up to Buck Springs would provide enough of a challenge to us on this excursion, and so we headed back the way we came, Vilis growing heavy in the backpack carrier before I had even traveled ½ a mile. I carried him over the more steep/treacherous sections, and he would stretch his legs on the more level sections of trail. To avoid an extra bit of a climb, take the Laurel Mountain Connector; it skirts the side of Little Bald to return to Laurel Mountain Trail. On this side of the mountain we found ourselves crossing entire hillsides covered in rocky boulders, the moss-covered rocks a landscape straight out of fairytales. A bit of warning, that although the Connector has less elevation change than crossing the summit of Little Bald, the terrain is a bit more challenging, slippery climbs in some spots with rocky ground making for slower going.

Before too long we reached the junction with the Mountains-to-Sea trail, closing the loop, and just after that arrived at the former site of the lodge. We soaked in the view yet again, and then in the parking lot almost submitted to the lure of climbing Mt. Pisgah as we still had daylight to burn – Vilis was asleep in the carrier after all! But a celebration awaited this birthday girl back in Greenville, so I took one last longing look before loading up the car and turning east on the Parkway towards Asheville.

View from Buck Springs Lodge site

Note: The NC Arboretum is located right where we turn off the Blue Ridge Parkway on our way back to Greenville, meaning the Winter Lights event could be a perfect conclusion to a day on the Blue Ridge this December. Or, if you're headed west on the Parkway, my Pisgah to Cherokee post would be a good guide of sights to see en route! Finally, check out the Meanderthals post on Buck Spring to Pilot Rock for detailed trail descriptions, maps and fantastic photos.   

Mount Pisgah

Glassy Mountain

It’s Pickens. It’s only a mile or two long. It’s at 1,700 feet compared to Caesar Head’s 3,215. Whatever the reason for the Glassy Mountain trail’s relatively unknown status, it only adds to the charm of one of the best views of the Blue Ridge Escarpment to be had in the Upstate; and all within a 30 minute drive of Greenville.

The drive to Pickens was scenic, the bright foliage of autumn lining the roadsides as we headed west out of Greenville on Farrs Bridge Road. The Glassy Mountain Heritage Preserve is a straight shot – only on the approach to Pickens did we make the right turn on South Glassy Mountain Road that appears shortly after crossing Wolf Creek. Google tends to direct visitors in on N Cedar Rock Rd; this route allows you a view of the cell tower-covered top of Glassy Mountain before you make the hike up.

Coming in up South Glassy Mountain Road, park on the west side opposite the trailhead just after passing the intersection with South Glassy Mountain Church road. There’s more parking at the top of the mountain if needed, but we prefer start our hike at the bottom, saving the downhill portion for last. The trail isn’t blazed, but sporadic signs point the way in the few spots you might take pause.

The trail winds around the east side of Glassy Mountain, named for the glassy appearance of the exposed rock face when wet. The Preserve was established on May 8, 1990, the 65 acres today managed by the SC Forestry Commission. What makes this hike special are the multiple rare plant species that grow on the unusual land form; Glassy Mountain is a Piedmont Monadnock, an isolated mountain in the Piedmont with associated granitic dome plant communities. The north face has extensive bare rock areas that in places drop up to 400 feet, and the relative uniformity of the surrounding countryside ensure fantastic views. With leaves already starting to drop there were immediately glimpses to be had of the country to the east, Paris Mountain providing the backdrop for rolling countryside and colorful autumn forests.

Continuing around we saw many flowers, ferns and other interesting plants, despite the chilly October temperatures. The exposed rock outcrops provide up-close looks at dozens of mosses and lichens, although please be careful to stay on the trail, to help conserve the fragile plant communities that call these outcrops home.

From a rocky pine/oak forest we entered sugar maple woods, corroborating evidence that the soil on the north side of the dome is surprisingly rich, a result of thousands of years of weathering without the high elevations typical of granite domes. Stay on the lookout for all sorts of wildflowers that love these fertile and moist soils.

About ½ mile into your hike you’ll reach an intersection: the two trails to the right make a loop out to the edge of the dome, the trail to the left climbs up to the top of the mountain. We went straight, and the trail soon curved around to the most stunning view; stretched out in front of awed visitors is the Blue Ridge Escarpment, punctuated by Table Rock and Pinnacle mountains.

Closing the loop back to the intersection and taking the remaining branch of trail you’ll find that the last bit up to the summit is the steepest; however 2/10ths of a mile from the scenic viewpoint you’ll reach the open area at the Glassy Mountain summit. Various communications towers dot the top, an old fire tower standing vigil over the gravel parking lot.

If you’ve got the time, descend back to the trailhead the way you came, winding through the forest to catch all the things you missed on your way up. Or you can just head down the road, enjoying the views of some of the exposed rock surfaces from a different perspective and cutting about ½ mile off your hike. Either way, you’ll promise yourself that you’ll soon be back: in the winter months to take in unobstructed views once the leaves fall, in the spring to admire the biological diversity of this incredibly rich natural resource, in the summer for the wildflowers and verdant understory. Or again in another week, as the progression of fall color creeps down the Blue Ridge Escarpment!  

Whiteside Mountain

The annual fall color show is descending in elevation, now showing in the 4,000s: Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Mount Pisgah, Sam Knob, and the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s also colored up considerably in the Highlands/Cashiers area, where Whiteside Mountain offers some of the best views of Nantahala National Forest and surrounding area.

The “white side” that gives the mountain its name is a result of eons of erosion; the sheer cliffs of granitic gneiss are geologically similar to other familiar landmarks such as Looking Glass Rock on the Pisgah, and our own Upstate favorite, Table Rock.

What makes the Whiteside Mountain hike so popular is that you can have the exhilaration of standing on the edge of 750 foot high cliffs, but with safety railings helping to mitigate the risk of accidents. The relatively short hike – it’s a moderate two-mile loop trail that takes hikers to the top of Whiteside – is also a feature that can make the hike attractive to families. Even with the railings and moderate rating, this hike can still be a challenge, as it has an elevation gain of about 600 feet. Hikers should exercise caution and stay on the trail; there are steep drop-offs and other hazards on Whiteside, as with most mountain hikes.

To reach the trailhead, follow the signs for Whiteside Mountain Recreation Area from US 64 for 1 mile on Whiteside Mountain Road (SR 1600), until you reach the signed parking area on the left. There is a $2.00/day area use fee at Whiteside Mountain Recreation Area, and on weekends the lot can fill up; at this point overflow traffic is directed to keep moving until spots open up.

The trail starts steeply up the hill behind the sign boards and soon merges with an old roadbed. Not too much further the loop splits off to the left up a section of stairs. We prefer to go counter-clockwise (and up the stairs), as it gets the steep section out of the way first and we don’t have to contend with it on the descent. (If you prefer a more gradual gradient, continue on the roadbed traveling the loop clockwise.) The stairs and switchbacks take you up through the hardwood forest to the top of the ridge, on the way passing some neat geological formations, including a rock overhang and a small cliff.

Then all of the sudden you emerge onto bare rock, with views stretching south across the Chattooga River valley into Georgia and South Carolina. To your right are the round domes of the Highlands-area mountains, dotted with resorts, golf courses and large homes. There are more than a half-dozen of these viewpoints along the ridgeline, each seemingly more beautiful than the last.

The summit is about halfway, with a large rock sticking up marking the spot, elevation 4,931ft. At this point the stunted oaks and pine are interspersed with mountain laurel, a good reason to return in the spring. The area is also known for wildflowers including white snakeroot, false Solomon’s seal, speckled wood-lily and wood betony.

Standing on the summit of Whiteside

From here you’ll start the descent, but there are still multiple scenic viewpoints along the ridge. Looking outward, on your left are fantastic views of the cliffs and the portion of the mountain known as Devil’s Courthouse (not to be confused with the Devil’s Courthouse up on the Blue Ridge).

A great photo op can be found at Fool’s Rock. Named after the 1911 rescue (read more about it here), a narrow gap leads down to a second viewing area. Exercise caution, there is a gap, even with the safety guidewires.

At one point a concrete slab platform juts out over the mountainside; a relic from before the Forest Service acquired the property. The old road bed used to bring tourists up to the summit for views from this spot. The ticket booth to the attraction was the former “smallest US Post Office,” a tiny 5-foot by 6-foot structure that served from 1878 until 1953 in Whiteside Cove. “Grimshawes” (as it was called because all the postmasters were named Grimshawe) was moved back down in the 1970s, and today can be seen on Whiteside Cove Road.

During your hike keep an eye out for the peregrine falcons that call the mountain their home. The birds of prey were reintroduced to Whiteside through an endangered species program in 1985, and they return annually to nest on the rock ledges on the cliffs – another good reason to stay on the trails and to mind climbing closures (posted at parking lot).

Once you reach the opening with several large boulders (where the trail makes a sharp turn) you’ve reached the last scenic viewpoint. The northeasterly view looks towards Timber Ridge, the granitic gneiss of Chattooga Ridge visible over the valley.

From this point the trail heads back down the mountain on the old roadbed, with glimpses north and northwest into the valley as you gently descend back down to the parking area. Before we knew it we were back at the car, and as it was approaching 5pm we headed back to US 64 in hopes to see the Shadow of the Bear phenomenon.

"Shadow of the Bear" via Romantic Asheville

Starting around October 15^th, the shadow of Whiteside Mountain looks like a bear for 30 minutes around sunset. According to Romantic Asheville, the “shadow of the bear” is visible for 30 minutes each evening between 5:30-6:15 PM from mid-October through early November. The best place to see the shadow is from the Rhodes Big View Overlook on Highway 64. The overlook doesn’t have signs, but it does have pull-offs on both sides of the highway for cars, as well as a fantastic view of Whiteside Mountain and the Chattooga Ridge. It is only a few miles west of Cashiers, and just past the intersection of 64 with Whiteside Mountain Road. It had been partly sunny the whole day, but as the sun sank in the sky it descended into some clouds and we came up empty on our visit… Although we might not make it back to the Highlands/Cashiers area this fall, we’re planning a visit sometime in late February/early March, as the angle of the sun in the sky will once again bring the bear out of hibernation.

View from Rhodes Big View Overlook including Whiteside on the right

In addition to the nearby mountain towns of Highlands and Cashiers, there are plenty of other destinations in the area. These include the Cullasaja River Gorge, dozens of waterfalls like Whitewater & Silver Run, Gorges State Park, and endless other hiking possibilities on the Nantahala, Pisgah, Chattahoochee and Sumter National Forests. Happy exploring!