Annecy and the Gorges du Fier

The first stop on our northern Italy road trip? Annecy, France! We were looking to break up the first leg of the trip into a more manageable driving chunk, but Annecy turned out to be worth the stop! Only three and a half hours from Clermont-Ferrand with scenic viewpoints the whole way: sunflower fields mixed with mountains, forests and little towns. The Alps were visible in the distance almost from Lyon, and when we turned north into the valley that led to Lake Annecy we were in the mountains.

My first impression of Annecy wasn't the most positive, as we drove through an industrial area to get to the city centre (my impression was later completely reversed). After checking into the hotel we immediately set out again, hoping to make it to nearby Gorges du Fier before it closed. A gorge caused by water eroding deep into a sandstone bed, we made it to the ticket booth minutes before last entry. With Lauris in the baby backpack we set out over a bridge before turning into a narrow walkway that led into the gorge.  The catwalk hugged the cliff wall, and Roberts had to be vigilant that he didn't bump Lauris's head on all the rocks jutting out from the cliff face. The gorge was impressive, worth the hurry to get in on time and the entry fee with its steep twists and turns, colorful walls and swiftly flowing water 25m below. I only wish there had been a good vantage point of the river entering the gorge, that would have been icing on the cake.

It was soon after our return to Annecy and downtown that my impressions were reversed. We walked a few short blocks into the old town and were in a different world than the one we drove into. Known as the "Venice of France" due to its many canals and access to buildings from the water, the pedestrian alleys are narrow with flowers cascading from balconies and ice cream vendors and cafes doors open for business. We ate outside, tourists watching tourists stroll by, then headed deeper into the city.

The main old town district is situated on a peninsula jutting out into the lake with the European Gardens on the tip. From the park there were wonderful views of the mountains and across the lake, as well as plenty of space for Lauris to run around after a long day in carseats, strollers and the backpack.

Our wanderings through the city the next day took us past Palais de l'Isle, a castle on an island in the middle of a canal, and near Cathedrale St. Pierre of the early 16th century. We did not climb up the hill to Château d'Annecy, but did admire the views from the bottom while eating ice cream cones. Our check-out time came, as usual, too quickly, but we packed up the car and headed for Italy, ready for pasta, gelato and una bella vacanza.

England Part III: Stonehenge and London

We woke early Sunday morning, kidnapped Alnis from his Čikāgas Piecīši responsibilities (see previous London post), piled into the rental car and headed south. Destination, Stonehenge. We made it from Rugby in under two hours thanks to Roberts's left-side-of-the-road driving skills, my navigation and the rest of the passengers catering to Lauris's whims in the back.

With low expectations due to Lonely Planet's description of "a ring of stones, ringed by barbed wire in a field next to a noisy main road," initial impressions were predictable. It was indeed very close to a busy road, and we joined the tourist hordes in the queue to purchase tickets. At £7.50 for adults admission could have been more expensive, but it included an audio tour gadget and brochure. The line wound around, through the tunnel under the road, and then all the way around the legendary stones. Clutching our cameras we first stared at the amount of people, but quickly diverted our attention to Stonehenge, which in reality was smaller even than it looked from the road.

A rare tourist sighted on the Stonehenge side of the rope

We knew we would not be able to approach the stones, but were surprised to get as close as we did. The imposing string of rope with small signs behind it turned out to be a blessing; it was possible to gt pictures of the stone monument without the hundreds of people visible behind. I've decided that if I ever get a chance to return to this area, I will try to book an early morning or late evening Stone Circle Access Visit when only 26 visitors are allowed to wander among the stones.

After a pit stop we hurried east, to get Alnis to the Polish house POSK back in London, on time for his rehearsal. Then we returned to the Daugavas Vanagu Fonda Londonas Nams to catch our breath before heading out to visit the Princess Diana Memorial Playground in Kensington Gardens. I shouldn't have been surprised to see the queue of parents with strollers waiting to get in! Thankfully by the time Daina ordered and got ice cream cones for all the kids (and me) from the nearby cafe we were at the front of the line and strolled right in. Now I will say it; this park was the highlight of our trip.

Lauris with the crew

An enormous pirate ship, elf cabins, a "sensory trail" and even a beach area with fountains and running water, we could have spent days there. A top recommendation for any family with children, although I would try to avoid peak tourist times as we did have to wait in line. However, there was plenty of stuff to do for everyone, from Annelī (11) to Lauris (1), and we left only in search of food, the kids satisfied and pleasantly exhausted.

Dinner was another delicious affair, with fish and chips for the majority of our party. I will say, I made the most of English cuisine; between the "Codfather," normal fish and chips, vinegar on my fries, a meat pie (steak and ale), and jacket potatoes, I only lacked bangers and mash, and due to my avoidance of anything gravy-related this will have to wait. (High tea and scones with cream didn't make the menu this time either, but this is on my short list of reasons to return!)

Always room for ice cream

Back at the guest house a few postcards were written, a few games of cards played, a few kids put to bed, a few more conversations had and then it was bedtime, for everyone had early flights the next morning. Surprised at the amount of sightseeing we were able to cram into so little time, happy Lauris got to spend more time with Edgars, Andis and Annelī, and not quite ready to head back home I drifted off to sleep and dreams of big red buses...

A summer-ly post

Natalia over at Ma Nouvelle Mode is hosting a photo contest, and so although this picture has already made its appearance on my blog, I am reposting it along with a few words...

Sometimes you remove the seeds. Other times, you eat them first.

England Part II: Straumēni and Rugby

For English, please scroll down

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Iemesls, kamdēļ lidojām uz Angliju bija lai satikt Cerus, un iemesls kamdēļ viņi tur lidoja, bija jo Alnis tur koncertēja ar „Čikāgas piecīšiem.” Un tā varētu arī teikt, ka mēs lidojām uz Londonu lai redzētu „Piecīšus.”

„Čikāgas piecīši” šogad svin savu zelta jubilēju. Jaunākais CD „Visiem latvju bērniem” ieskaita dziesmas no gaidu un skautu Lielām nometnēm, kā arī populārās „Mazais letiņš” un „Sarauj’ Latvija.” Pēdejo reizi Anglijā tie spēlēja 1974. gadā, un šoreiz tie piestājās ceļā uz Latviju savā „Beidzot 50!” tūrē. Sestdien, 30. jūlijā bija pirmais tūres koncerts DVF Straumēnos, kas ir tuvu Rugby pilsētiņai, un tā piektdienas vakarā jau sakāpām īres mašīnā un braucām uz ziemeļiem no Londonas.



Sestdien vispirms aizbraucām izpētīt Straumēnus. Tur ir skaista 19.g.s. lauku muiža, 22 akru parks, baznīca, skaisti puķu dārzi un vēl dīķītis. To 1975. gadā sāka apsaimniekot Anglijas Daugavas Vanagu Fonds, un šodien to lieto „netikai latviešu draudzes un latviešu organizācijas, bet arī vietejā angļu sabiedrība, ieskaitot profesionālas grupas, labdarības organizācijas un privātas personas dažādiem komerciāliem, sabiedriskiem un atpūtas pasākumiem.” Piecīši jau mēģināja savu programmu Vecā zālē, un krēsli bija salikti tur un blakus zviedru zālē. Drīz uznāca ēstgriba, un braucām tālāk pa laukiem uz Rugby, piestājoties mazā Clifton Upon Dunsmore miestiņā uz pusdienām.

Pēc garšīgas „jacket potato” maltītes (tā Anglijā sauc ceptu kartupeli ar sieru un citiem ēdieniem iekšā) turpinājām uz Rugby, kur pirmo reizi spēlēja „rugby” sportu 1823. gadā. Pastaigājām par pilsētiņu, izskatijām „rugby” muzēju, piestājām tūristu birojā nopirkt kādu pastkartiņu, un beidzot nonācām skaistā „Caldecott” parkā kur visi bērni (un dūšā jaunie) kārtīgi izskrējās.

Rokzvaigznes Alberts Vītols, Alberts Legzdiņš un Alnis Cers

Tad bija laiks doties atpakaļ uz Straumēniem uz koncertu! Kaut zāles nebija ideālas šim tipa uzvedumam, un Zviedru zālē bija grūtāk dzirdēt, koncerts iznāca pavisam labs. Vispirms uzstājās Fišeru ģimene, un drīz jau „Piecīši” uznāca skatuvē. Skanēja pazīstamas dziesmas visu nakti, ieskaitot „Pazudušais dēls” un „Latvijai.” Otrā pusē „Man garšo alus” klausītājus visus tā sajūsmināja, ka skatītāji izskatijās kā vilnis šūpojoties līdzi, un piedziedājumu visi dziedāja. Mana mīļāka dziesma kuŗu uzveda bija „Hei Lailī,” pie koncerta beigām, kuŗai atkal bija komponēti ļoti piemēroti un jocīgi pantiņi.

Ar pilnu mašīnu nogurušiem bērniem braucām atpakaļ uz hoteli lai izgulētos nākamās dienas piedzīvojumiem - Stonehenge un Londona!

* Kaut mums neiznāca nākamā vakarā tikt uz koncertu Poļu namā Posk, Londonā, tur piestājām pirms koncerta apskatīt zāli un noklausīties īsu daļiņu no mēģinājuma. Zāle bija skaista, akustika varena, un nožēloju, ka nevarēju tikt uz abiem koncertiem. Pieņemu, ka otrais koncerts bija tik pat lustīgs, ja ne vairāk, kā pirmais! Novēlu „Čikāgas piecīšiem” visu labāko savos turpmākajos koncertos Latvijā! Tiem kuŗiem interesē redzēt šo vēsturisko grupu, tā tūrēs sekojošās pilsētas;

5. augustā Siguldas pilsdrupās

7. augustā Uzvaras parkā Jelgavā

13. augustā Alūksnes pilssalas estrādē

14. augustā Bauskas pilskalna estrādē

18. augustā Valmieras pilsētas estrādē

19. augustā Latvijas Nacionālā teātrī, Rīgā

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Our reason for the recent trip to England was to meet with my aunt and her family. The reason for their trip was Alnis’s band, Čikāgas Piecīši (which translates as „The Chicago Five” representing the original five members) is on tour to commemorate their 50th anniversary. The group has had almost thirty people participating over the years, although the core remains the same. Alnis joined in the mid-1980s, and their last concert in England was in 1974. This time they played two concerts in England before heading to Latvija on their Beidzot 50! (Finally 50!) tour. We headed out Friday night to Rugby, en route to their Saturday concert in Straumēni.

As I mentioned in my previous post, we stayed at the Daugavas Vanagu Fonda Londonas Nams in London. The Daugavas Vanagu Fonds is a Latvian welfare organization that manages the guesthouse on the side. They also manage Straumēni, a twenty-two acre estate with a 19^th century manor, church, banquet halls, bar, English gardens and a pond. Used for all sorts of Latvian events, it is also popular with the English as a wedding, conference and meeting venue. This was our first stop Saturday morning, and as the band practiced we explored the beautiful grounds and gardens – Roberts remarked that they reminded him of the famous Longwood Gardens outside Philadelphia.

Our next stop was the nearby village of Clifton Upon Dunsmore, for a delicious meal of “jacket potatoes” (a baked potato loaded with toppings of your choosing) and fish and chips. Then we hopped back into the rental car and headed back to Rugby, whose claim to fame is that it’s the birthplace of rugby football. Rugby was first played there in the local school in 1823, and after a quick stop at the rugby museum we purchased Lauris his very first rugby ball, made by the authentic Webb Ellis manufacturers. Our final stop in Rugby was Caldecott park, that had very cool playground equipment including a zip line and a skateboard ramp simulator. Then it was time to head back to Straumēni for the concert.

The Ellis statue and the Rugby school where it all started

The opening band was the Fisher family, with a cool Latvian zydeco style. Then to much applause, Čikāgas Piecīši took the stage. Playing all the old favorites that I grew up with, the audience often sang along and swayed with the music. It was late when the rental car full of tired kids headed back to the hotel, to get some rest for the next day’s adventures in Stonehenge and London.

* Although we didn’t make it to their next concert in the Polish house Posk in London, we did stop by before the show to check out the venue and listen to some of rehearsal. The hall was very nice, with great acoustics, and I assume that the second concert went just as well, if not better than the first. Wishing Čikāgas Piecīši all the best during the rest of their tour in Latvija! If anyone in the area is interested in seeing this historical band, they will be playing on the following dates;

August 5^th in Sigulda

August 7^th in Uzvaras park in Jelgava

August 13^th in Alūksne

August 14^th in Bauska

August 18^th in Valmiera

August 19^th at the National Theatre in Rīgā

England Part I: London

With my aunt and cousins flying in for their dad’s concert tour, cheap Flybe tickets to Southampton and the start of Roberts’s vacation, how could we say no to a whirlwind trip to England?

We were planning on spending two days in London and two days out.  The train was an option, but with seven people and a desire for freedom of movement, renting a car was the way to go.  (In general, the ‘train tickets or rent a car’ decision in terms of money tilts in favor of ‘rent a car’ at somewhere more than three people).  Having a car simplified things for us as we didn’t have to stick to a pre-determined schedule and we were able to stick in a few extra sights. This was my first time in England, and although Roberts had been, most of his non-business travel days were from twenty years ago. Daina and my cousins had also never been, and this along with our limited time led us to purchase tickets with Big Bus Tours for the first day of seeing London. I suggest this method of seeing the sights; although expensive, it orients you as well as provides transportation, allowing for flexibility in schedules and sightseeing style. By purchasing the tickets ahead of time you save a few pounds sterling, and the tickets include walking tours and a boat ride. We took advantage of the “hop on, hop off” policy, stopping as we pleased for snacks, better views and a little more time to look at something. The recorded commentary was surprisingly interesting, and the route structured to see a maximum amount of sights in a minimum amount of time. 

With the cousins in front of Westminster Abbey

 We had prepared ourselves that London was going to be brimming with tourists, being the middle of August and summer vacation. However, I was still shocked at the number of people in the streets – tourists and locals alike, for street after street. This lead to complications at some of the places we wanted to visit, most notably at Buckingham Palace during the changing of the guard. Though we arrived 30 minutes early, masses of people surrounded the Palace and sidewalks. After watching the new guard march in we left, having no view of the changing which occurs behind a fence, behind the impassable, impenetrable wall of watchers who had probably camped for a couple of hours, minimum!  If this is your must-see goal in London, it would be good to arrive several (or more) hours early sans stroller, with food, water and sunscreen for young children and a strong constitution/plenty of energy for the wait. 

 

Top places of the day? I loved Westminster Abbey, Parliament and Tower Bridge. Crowded, yes, but the frenzy added to the experience, providing a marked contrast to the now-quiet Clermont-Ferrand. The smartest decision of the day? Hopping on the free ferry back from London Bridge to Westminster Abbey, as the view from the Thames provides a completely different view of the city, and the ride gives a small break from the traffic and noise of the city streets. Most unexpected surprise? How much I enjoyed hearing Big Ben chime twelve o’clock. And top things on the list for our return trip? St. Paul’s Cathedral, high tea, the museums and Trafalgar Square. Although I caught a glimpse of the square and Cathedral on this trip, I have heard great things about the city view from the Golden Gallery. And Lauris wants to spend more time in the parks.

We stayed at the Daugavas Vanagu Fonda Londonas Nams on Queensborough Terrace in Bayswater, just north of Kensington Gardens. Centrally located and  from what I gather less expensive than other options, they have a bar in the basement that is open Thursday through Saturday evenings (try the light and dark beers from the Latvian city of Bauska) and a great breakfast included in the mornings. I will admit we didn’t give much thought to lodgings; my cousins were all staying there, and we are partial to it as it is the only Latvian-owned guest house in London.

On the evening of the second day we drove north to Rugby, but I leave this for my next post…

The view of Parliament from our ferry