Often when someone asks me about what Riga is like in the winter,
they assume that it’s too cold and too dark and by association, miserable.
Truthfully, I find it delightful!
Although I spent much of my childhood in Latvia, it fell during
those light-filled summer days of school vacation. Having just moved to Riga
from Asheville, North Carolina on a permanent basis, this is my very first
winter and Christmas season here. [Disclaimer: I grew up in the tundra of the
Midwestern United States, so my context is set against that. This also means
that I already own some of the innate skills of those who have grown up in
colder climates (like walking on ice in proper footwear).]
It seems as though the “trick” to a joyful winter season is to
fully participate in both the inside and the outside life and the traditions
that come along with them. So today, I’m sharing the ways I’ve found to enjoy
this time:
Inside life
Rigans are already big on houseplants, so greening up your
apartment or home isn’t much of a stretch (The Capital R blog writes
about this phenomenon beautifully). I love the tradition that each
Latvian is entitled to chop down their own tree in a state forest (there’s an app for that), but given that I’m
without a car, and the nearest forests in which it is legal to cut down trees
is a good 40km away, I’ve settled for decorating my houseplants. A more
motivated version of me would go out to any local Christmas market and buy
greenery. I might get around to it yet, before December 24th! But, I more than
make up for it in the next area…
Lights are essential! There aren’t many hours of daylight in the
winter and compared to where I used to live much closer to the equator, the
daylight you do get is like lukewarm tea--cloudy and watered down. Candles,
already revered in Latvian culture, are a must (check!), and many Latvians
additionally opt to get electric candelabras for their windows (check!). The
tradition of lighting advent calendars is popular here, and you can double both
your greenery and light by having or making one (check!). I’ve also noticed
that small LED light strings are becoming a popular and energy efficient way to
decorate (check!). And, at the risk of going overboard, we have a plant light
(which mimics sunlight) under which we sun ourselves (and wait for longer
days).
Winter seems to be the season for fragrant spices, and here is no
different! We especially like the fresh blends from Spicehouse to add to our gingerbread, oatmeal,
and fruit. I start every morning with a cup of strong coffee to let my body
know it’s time to wake up even though it’s dark outside, and these days it is
made much better with a liberal dash of masala chai spice from my local
zero-waste store Turza. An evening option is mulled wine,
commonly found this time of year, but also easy to make at home with your own
spice mix.
Food is another essential cozy element for time indoors. As it was
when we lived back in the States, this is the time for warm stews and
casseroles. Latvians are masters of soup and eat it on a daily basis! When I
grow tired of native root vegetables, however, I feel lucky to be in proximity
of other goodies from the rest of Europe. It is citrus season, and Spanish
mandarin oranges are in plentiful supply to keep my Vitamin C boosted.
Surprisingly, in Riga I’ve also discovered a love for persimmons. I’ve never
seen them as large, firm, and sweet as they are here.
Finally, the dark weather is perfect for reading. I’ve never found
myself more Latvian than when I’m curled up inside in the dark thoroughly
engrossed in a good book (why do you think the mascot
for Latvian literature is an introverted writer?). I’ve already
joined two different book clubs (one started by Expats in Latvia and the other generously sponsored by the American
Embassy). When I run out of something to read, bookshops in Riga are like
nail salons in my old Brooklyn neighborhood--there’s one on every block. The
wonderful Roberts Books is a tucked-away piece of magic, full
of English-language books old and new. Zvaigzne ABC is a major book
retailer, and their outlet in the Old Town holds some reasonable treasures and
kind cashiers.
Outside life
I don’t know who originally said, “There is no bad weather, only
bad clothing,” but it’s absolutely true. One thing that I learned about Riga
matches another quote: “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.” In
going outside, you must be prepared for rapid changes in wind, precipitation,
and temperature. A good pair of waterproof boots might be the most essential
way to stay grounded and warm on slippery cobblestones, other uneven surfaces,
and random giant puddles (my pair of Columbia Ice
Maidens haven’t let me down yet). Generally, some combination of
layers (shirt, sweater, vest, outer down shell) allow me to adjust to most
anything Mother Nature throws my way. Of course, you’ll also have a scarf or
shawl, because no Latvian would be caught dead with a “naked” neck, lest the
fearsome “wind” touch it (a good number of Latvian ailments involve wind and
breezes touching exposed skin). A brilliant tip I’ve picked up from the locals
to navigate the frequent misty, but not quite rainy, weather is to ditch
struggling with an umbrella and simply wear a thick hat. Once this is all on
your person, you’re ready to transition to the outdoors!
Beginning on the last weekend of November/first weekend of
December, there are Christmas markets around every corner and for every
taste--from traditional crafts, to homemade foods, to social entrepreneurship,
to zero waste, and beyond. It is enjoyable as a destination to walk to, and of
course helpful if you still have presents on your list! One of my favorite
locations is the Rabbit Kingdom, set up in Esplanade park, where a
mini set of castles and houses with stained windows sit atop a straw base for a
whole host of rabbits to hop around in. And of course, the main Christmas
Market in the center of Old Town, offers a daily romantic view of small houses
and lights against the backdrop of Riga’s famed church spires.
Along the way, you’ll be treated to lights on most major streets and even a trail of public art Christmas trees. This is the THIRD public art and light display across the city since I arrived in August. This city loves their art and lights and admittedly, it is a compelling way to battle the darkness!
Event-wise, there is something happening constantly. Facebook events and Riga.lv have kept us apprised of a constant slew of Christmas parties, decoration making, tastings, films, and other things to do. Perhaps all of these events are geared toward the less introverted Latvian (they do exist!), but as a new resident I’ve found that you won’t know as much unless you get out there. A few weekends ago, the Rotary held their annual Santa Fun Run benefiting children in hospital. The hundreds of running Santas, some with creatively embellished costumes (and many dog-like reindeer), were as fun to watch as the confused faces of Old Rīga’s tourists.
This is also the time to think of others. Because we won’t be with
our own families this year, our goal has to been to gift to someone else each
week of advent. Each year Laima chocolates sets up a picturesque small house next to their famous clock that
features the Christmas wishes of children across Latvia. One simply goes in,
picks a card, and delivers the gift back within five days or so (we hope little
Peter enjoys his set of Hot Wheels!). Other worthwhile causes include Engelu Pasts, which fulfills the
Christmas wishes of over 8000 seniors across Latvia, the young folks of Latvijas Kustiba par Neatkaribu Dzivi making 1,000,000,000
candles to open their own group home, and local animal shelters. The gift of giving
can also be applied to walks around town. The Kurts coffee huts, recognizable by their name
written in big-bulbed lights, is run by a family whose proceeds go to their
disabled son’s needs. Recently opened RB Bakery, is one of the few public places that
employs people with disabilities. This week’s highlight will be the semi-annual
craft fair in the Riga Central Railway station that features exclusively disabled and elder
artisans.
All in all, I think it would be safe to say that I’ve only scratched the very surface of how to stay sane and actually enjoy the Latvian winter. But if the little bit I’ve experienced thus far is any clue as to the larger whole, life keeps on charging ahead here and I, for one, am glad to be carried along. Here’s to more exploring and discovering!
Paldies Māra! So happy to have you share your thoughts on the Rīga winter!! My brother moved to Latvija some years ago, and while many of his photographs are taken in the darkness of the Baltic “day,” many of them feature all the things you mention, and it does make everything seem merry and bright!
Mara McLaughlin-Taylor is the daughter
and granddaughter of Latvian Displaced Persons. A dual citizen of the US and
Latvia, it’s only taken her near 40 years to move to Rīga. She is passionate
about sharing Latvian culture, which she primarily does through language, food,
and as an administrator of the Baltic Imports Facebook community. You can find more of her beautiful photographs on Instagram - instabaltica.
Tomorrow on 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas, please join us for an a guide on how to cut down your very own Christmas tree in Estonia!
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