Dikļi Manor, a century old palace

After the wedding in Valmiera we headed west into the heart of Vidzeme, to the Dikļi Manor. Baron Paul von Wolf built the impressive neo-baroque style manor house in 1896. An interesting feature is the mansard roof; also called a French roof or curb roof, the four-sided gambrel-style hip roof has two separate slopes on each of its sides, with the lower slope being punctuated by dormer windows and at a steeper angle than the upper. This creates an additional floor of habitable space and allows for a lower profile.

In 1919 the mansion was given to the Valmiera district government at which point it was converted into an orphanage. In later years it also served as sanatorium, but in 2003 was reborn as a hotel after an extensive restoration. Attention to detail ensured the old wooden trim and ornate fireplaces (check out Stephanie's album!) were returned to the previous palatial state, and with elaborate staircases and an impressive collection of art from Latvian painters the chateau is truly a historical treasure.

However entrancing the manor’s interior was, I most enjoyed the grounds. Home to around twenty exotic trees including American balsam fir and Douglas fir, there are also several ‘grand trees’ on the property, ancient things that have made it into the record books because of their girth or age. White storks could be seen searching for frogs in the meadow, and the sound of the wind and birds provided background music between band sets.

50 acres of carefully groomed gardens, walking paths and ponds provide more than enough space for a long stroll after dinner or exploration between events. The boys found hours of amusement in the several playgrounds and giant swing, and for those couples seeking a romantic moment of solitude, a rowboat can be used to venture out on the pond.

The wedding reception was held in a tent on the main lawn of the manor house grounds, just adjacent to the hall where the rehearsal dinner took place. Music and laughter could be heard even into the early morning as wedding guests celebrated the union between Līga and Matīss.

Our room was on the second floor, up the grand staircase and down a hallway lined with portraits and antique furniture. The couple’s extended family was squeezed into the 26 rooms and three suites in the Manor house, with overflow of close friends staying in the 13 renovated barn house rooms. Guests enjoyed appointments at the spa, gourmet meals at the restaurant, and nearby Valmiermuižas brewery tour and beer tasting.

Breakfast was served in the sun room, with guests lingering into the early afternoon catching up over cups of coffee and a delicious spread. Listening to the clinking of silverware and the muted voices in the ballroom it was easy to be transported back a century, imagining grandly dressed couples attending a formal dinner within the majestic hall.

It was long after Cinderella had already hurried from the palace that we packed and continued on the three day wedding journey – to the atkāzas taking place on the shore of the Baltic Sea in picturesque village Saulkrasti.

Puiši, puiši

 Puiši, puiši, kas tie puiši, opsidrallallā,

Kas tos puišus nezināja, opsidrallallā. 

Rīgas ielas izstaigāja, opsidrallallā,

Cēsīs gluži neiebrauca, opsidrallallā.

Valmierāi cauriedami, opsidrallallā,

Dikļu pili skatijuši, opsidrallalla.

Limbažosi, birzmalāji, opsidrallallā,

Skaistu dienu pavad'juši, opsidrallallā!

The Botanical Garden of the University of Latvia

The Botanical Garden of the University of Latvia hosted the Rīga Flower Show last week, coinciding with the Youth Song and Dance Festival. With art and plant exhibitions, music, songs, theatre and workshops for adults and children, the gardens were decked out in their finest. Even though we missed the show by one day, there was more than enough to see. Covering 40 acres, they are the oldest botanical gardens in Latvia, having been established in 1922. The gardens were moved in 1926 to their present location, the former Albert Wolfschmidt manor. Within the park boundaries are four manor buildings, all listed as national monuments of wooden architecture. The majestic linden alley that once connected the manor house to the road still stands, now leading to the Palm house.

Boasting an arboretum, a palm house and even a tropical butterfly house, the collection totals 8,300 species of which about 2,000 are tropical and subtropical – quite an achievement for being located at such a northern latitude. The origins of the plants range from the dunes at the Baltic Sea to the forests of Australia, with the Amazon jungle, Mexican desert and Caucasus Mountains all represented.

About 750 species are trees and shrubs, including 124 species of azaleas and 15 magnolia species and cultivars. I was impressed with the rhododendron collection, which contains over 110 species; sadly, it was not currently in bloom. However, the rose garden was. 65 floribunda roses, shrub roses, park roses, polyantha roses and hybrid tea roses – so much color within the carefully tended beds.

After paying an additional fee, we entered the tropical butterfly house, where South American, Asian and African butterflies were free-flying through the exotic jungle setting. Be forewarned; the temperatures inside the greenhouse  can reach 90˚+ so plan accordingly.

Vestiges of the Flower Show still remained, and the installations we did see were clever and well-executed. I can only imagine what the gardens looked like in all their splendor…

Roberts and I agreed that we like how there were “wild” portions within the gardens, where native plants were allowed to show off. The Shade garden and Perennial plant collection covered the middle ground, with an organized chaos bursting with life. In the center next to the Palm house are the rock garden and pond, the latter a scene straight out of Monet’s waterlily series.

The boys had fun trying to spot the hares living in the trušu karaliste Ļipmuiža, as most of the rabbits were hiding from the sun in their castles.  Nearby was a giant Easter bunny statue, which I’m sure served some purpose in the Flower Show; could it be that it was actually a Laimas šokolāde exhibit?!

  

We stopped by the cafe for coffee and croissants, surrounded even then by flowers and luscious green grass. It was a beautiful day for a vist, and I was reluctant to leave. The botanical gardens are only a short cab, trolley or bus trip away from the center of Rīga (they are across Daugava on Jūrmalas Gatve), and can easily be combined with a trip to the National Library of Latvia or the Train History Museum. For information on hours, admission and events please visit the official website, www.Botanika.lu.lv.

 

  

Tu esi mana Jūrmala!

  

Lucky to be invited to celebrate the first birthday of our Costa Rica co-conspirator, we headed to Rīgas Central Station and bought tickets to Jūrmala on Saturday. The Latvian word for seaside, Jūrmala incorporates the beach resort towns that stretch 20 miles along the Baltic Sea between Lielupe River, the Gulf of Latvia, and Ķemeri National Park to the west. Only 16 miles west of Rīga, it is a popular summer destination for the city-dwellers and contains many summer homes for those escaping the city heat.  Famous for beautiful old Art Nouveau houses and beaches of fine, white sand and rather safe swimming conditions, specific areas of Jūrmala have century old reputations as spa destinations.

The trip started here, in Rīga's Central Station

We hopped off the train at the Lielupe station, which is the easternmost of the more than dozen small resorts together comprising Jūrmala. From the railway we headed north into a pine forest, with sandy paths crisscrossing the forest floor and emerging onto tranquil residential streets. The waves were audible almost from the moment the noise of the departing train had faded, and other than an occasional car or voice the woods were peaceful and quiet.

Although in more recent years large McMansion-type houses have sprung up throughout Jūrmala, the more modest family-style homes still remain, with scrupulously tended gardens and several generations of family coming together in the summers. We joined our friends to celebrate the first year of a beautiful little girl: plenty of good food, good friends and good times meant that the celebrating lasted throughout the day.

It was afternoon when we first headed to the sea. A short stroll through the pine forest that separates the beach from the houses and cars and then our shoes were off, the sand soft and cool underfoot. A strong wind meant the waves were choppier than usual, and the air was a little too cool for three little boys to spend too much time in the water. However they enjoyed their time in the sand and surf, and once lips began to turn blue we hurried back inland.

It was a beautiful day spent with friends, and as daylight started to fade we made the return trip to the beach to watch the sun set. There aren’t many things more romantic than a sunset over the Baltic Sea, and this is why I would add a trip to Jūrmala to every Rīga traveler’s itinerary. We waited until the last bit of sun dropped into the Baltic and then hurried back indoors, where we sang into the night to ward off the chill. 

Burtiski burvīgs burziņš - the Latvian craft fair of the year

On our previous visit to Latvia during the National Song and Dance Festival we dared to attend the grand dance performance and the final concert with Lauris and Mikus. Both were extraordinary experiences that I will forever associate with the land of my forefathers, my heritage, my identity. However, the boys were not old enough to remember the historic events, other than a few vague impressions and what they remember from pictures and video. I am not brave enough to repeat the experience this summer with three boys, and so we have been content to explore the various peripheral fêtes occurring around the city, including the Burtiski burvīgs burziņš Vērmanes dārzā, a giant crafts and design fair.

Not your run of the mill craft fair, the burziņš is a showcase of the rich cultural legacy of Latvian artisans. The Latvians book publishers and music companies were represented, however the majority of vendors featured handmade goods: carved wooden spoons, woven clothes, linen tablecloths, amber jewelry, traditional (and more modern) pottery, leather billfolds, glassware and more. Mixed in with the expensive, one-of-a-kind quality items are more affordable souvenirs, such as the Upe music box that plays Rīga dimd, or the linen bags from Alūksne that the boys picked out for themselves. We also chose an amazing wooden calendar to help the children learn the seasons, months and days; the bonus is the prominent display of the Latvian traditional seasons such as Ūsiņi, Jumji and Mārtiņi. Coasters seemingly made of woven tautiskas jostas, ceramic magnets and leather keychains featuring the traditional symbols, paper dolls with the national costumes and even pastalas, the customary footwear – it could all be found in Vērmanes dārzs.

Also to be found within the winding pathways – friends, old and new. One day we met up with our soon-to-be-relatives that we hadn’t seen since Costa Rica, another day we bumped into (almost literally) our friend Maksīts from France who we last saw in Chicago at Christmastime more than two years ago! Some days we had company in the form of vecmamma Aija, other days dad joined us for our excursions.

It wasn’t only shopping, as there were various stations set up throughout the park that provided free entertainment for the kids. The earth science/environmental booth offered a variety of interesting hands-on activities, including the chance to “hold fire” (Lauris chose not to participate, even after mom did) and explore various household chemical reactions.

On several stages were an intriguing mix of performances, from traditional folk songs to new medleys, improve comedy and theatre productions. My favorite was the instrumental rendition of “Popcorn.” Of course the playground and bounce house/slide proved to be appealing attractions, giving some valuable down time for goofing off.

We spent a little time in the activity tent where kids could try their hand at one of the many traditional art forms: ceramics, weaving and rotkalšana (jewelry making) among them. Lauris and Mikus were deemed too young for the pottery wheel but made a couple of pinch pots that hopefully will be fired in the kiln next Saturday. They also helped make a few of the tiny metal baubles that would get affixed to one of the versions of folk costume crowns. I regret not sitting down at the loom, and dream of the day when I’ll have time to take up weaving, a talent my great-grandfather excelled at.

The song and dance festival has ended, but the spirit lives on here in Rīga. As the 37,400 participants return to their summer routines and the thousands of spectators slowly empty from the city, the festival feeling continues to resonate – ŠODIENA ATSKANĒS RĪT!