Normandy, part une

With the four day weekend thanks to All Saints' Day / Toussaint, we packed up and left for Normandy on Friday evening. Knowing how hard (impossible!) it would be to drive the whole seven hours in one stretch, we stayed the first night in a hotel in Le Mans, host to the famous 24 Hours of Le Mans sports car race since 1923. Note to self; even when booking hotels last minute and looking for a deal, avoid any hotel under 40 euros/night... The next morning after a quick breakfast we were on our way to Caen. A beautiful city, however our exploring was restricted to the Château due to time constraints. Under sunny skies we picnicked up on the hill in the shade of chestnuts and with a view of the citadel. It was difficult to imagine the city we were viewing as the same that was under siege for two months during WWII. (June 6th, 1944 there was a heavy bombing raid after which fires burned for 11 days. Once the Canadians liberated the town on July 9th, the Germans retreated only to begin shelling the town, which lasted another month.) From our perch up on the hill we had a beautiful view of St. Pierre, and a more distant one of St.-Étienne Church, where during the battle more than 1,500 refugees camped out. We explored the ramparts, soaked in the views, and headed north to Pegasus Bridge.

St.-Georges chapel, Château

The site of the two bridges captured soon after midnight during the night of June 5^th-6^th, 1944 by the British 5^th Parachute Brigade was one of the first objectives of the Allied Landings in Normandy. Another unassuming little town, steeped in wartime history. We continued north to the ocean and Sword Beach, Juno Beach and Gold Beach, the landing zones of the British and Canadian troops on D-Day. Arromanches-les-Bains is on the west end of these beaches, and in the little port are the remains of the allied artificial “Mulberry” port. On the east end, high above the town on the dunes is a good eagle-eye view of the port, the harbor, the beaches to the east and the cliffs to the west.

Gold Beach and part of the Arromanches Mulberry harbor

Once down by the ocean visitors must wait until low tide, and then it is possible to walk out onto the beach among the remains of this giant floating harbor. The breakwaters (concrete-filled caissons sunk in the seabed) are also visible, farther out into the ocean, and although some of the concrete pillars still remain, the pier-heads and floating piers (made of metal and on floats) are no longer in the water, so a little imagination must be used to imagine how the port must have looked. The harbor was the landing point for the British Mulberry B troops, and after securing the harbor 146 Phoenix caissons were laid (about 500,000 tons of concrete). These, as well as 33 jetties and 10 miles of floating roads (all prepared before the invasion) had been towed across the Channel at about 4 mph, enabling 9,000 tons of material to be landed each day to support the invasion. (Here I will add that the reasoning behind building these ports was that during the initial invasion/fighting, existing ports would be rendered unusable, and beaches would not allow the landing of the tonnages of materials needed to support the troops in the war effort. These harbors were engineering marvels that were instrumental in the success of the Allied effort.) *All figures and facts courtesy of the Michelin Guide and Wikipedia.com

Low tide in Arromanches harbor, with sections of the breakwaters and some caissons visible

Normandy, part deux

Our second day in Normandy was devoted to the sites of the American landings on D-Day, and our first stop was the American cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach. The cemetery, in memory of the 1st (5th Corps of the 1st Army) Division, holds 9,387 crosses and Stars of David, perfectly aligned. We first toured the museum, with its poignant yet personalized exhibits, culminating in a reflecting pool meeting the ocean at the horizon. When the Americans landed on that June 6th, they met a well-organized German defense that was aided by a strong coastal current sweeping landing craft off course. I was extremely moved by the exhibits in the museum, and found myself clutching Lauris’s hand that much tighter upon exiting into the cemetery.

We entered through the memorial which stands in the central alley, past the Walls of the Missing that list 1,557 names. A passing tour guide was overheard explaining the rosettes appearing next to some names; these were the bodies that were recovered and identified after the memorial was built. We passed through the colonnade into the center, with a large bronze statue, "Spirit of American Youth” looking out over another reflecting pool, the burial area and chapel.

Even Lauris seemed somber as we walked through rows upon rows of the white marble crosses. Being in the midst of such a visual reminder of the casualties and overlooking the dunes the soldiers had to surmount in the face of fire, I wonder how the landing ever succeeded; the bravery of those souls that rallied and took the beach that day had before been a thing of textbooks, but now I have the admiration and awe of this day in history to carry around with me forever.

We then stopped at the Monument du Débarquement farther west along Omaha Beach; it seemed that every five yards was another monument, another commemorative plaque. We found a bench farther along the beach to eat lunch before taking a walk along the beach.

The cliffs mark the end of Omaha Beach

Lauris slept as we continued west, and slept as we toured Pointe du Hoc. Another point heavily defended by the Germans, from this point the entire area of the American invasion would have been visible. On the morning of June 6th, the Texas fired 600 salvoes of 14-inch shells, and then the 2nd Battalion of Rangers scaled the cliffs at dawn, sustaining heavy losses, 60% of their men. However, the capture of this battery saved countless lives of the troops landing on Omaha Beach, who would have been particularly exposed. The enormous craters and battered blockhouses painted a vivid picture of the intensity of the shelling, and created a stark contrast with the rolling dunes and sea.

A former gun emplacement

It was after a stop at Utah Beach that Lauris woke up, and we hurried to finish the remainder of the drive to Cherbourg-Octeville, on the very tip of the Contentin Peninsula. It boasts the largest artificial harbor in the world of a surface area of about 5.8 square miles. The capture of Cherbourg on June 26^th and 27^th in 1944 marked a decisive point in the Battle of Normandy, allowing for the landing of equipment and supplies on a much larger scale than had been formerly possible. When the American 7^th Corps took Cherbourg, they found the harbor heavily mined, so it was only after the Royal Navy frogmen cleared the mines that the harbor could be rebuilt. The undersea pipeline PLUTO (Pipe Line Under The Ocean) from the Isle of Wight brought gasoline through Cherbourg to the Allies for the war effort starting August 12^th, 1944. We arrived a tad too late to tour the Cité de la Mer museum that houses Le Redoutable, the first French nuclear submarine, but enjoyed a stroll around the quay and through downtown before turning in for the night.

Happy Veteran's Day, and God bless all the men and women serving our country!

Normandy, part trois

From Cherbourg we headed west on Monday morning, to the very northwest corner of the Contentin peninsula and Goury. With its tiny harbor and lighthouse, it painted a very pretty picture, and we spent an hour skipping stones, running back and forth with the waves and photographing the scene.

Just south of Goury is the Baie d’Écalgrain with its rocky beach backed by heathland. We almost didn’t pull into the parking lot, but luckily turned around and came back, and this turned out to be my favorite beach of the trip. A little more sheltered from the wind with far fewer people than the other beaches, we could feel the power behind each wave as it pulled at the rocks when rushing back to the sea.

Another little bit south and we reached Nez de Jobourg, a rocky and barren promontory (currently a bird sanctuary). The beautiful views in all directions also meant we were more exposed to the elements, and so after a short hike and picnic lunch we were back in the car headed south. A short detour to an overlook across Vauville Bay was our final stop before returning to the highway and settling in for a longer drive south.

Mont-St-Michel is many things in one; it is a rocky outcrop, it is an abbey, it is a salty grass marsh, it is a village, it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a pilgrimage destination and it is a very popular tourist spot! We timed our visit to be able to explore the village in daylight, watch the sunset over the bay from the steps of the church, then dine in one of the little restaurants before heading to our hotel in Pontorson (5 km south of Mont-St-Michel). This meant we were arriving as most people were leaving, as the last entry into the abbey is at 5pm this time of year, but we were content to tour the outer defenses, village and ramparts, viewing the abbey from all sides, and it was a relief not to have to battle the tides of people after the solitude we had experienced over the past days.

Tuesday we ate breakfast and then hit the road. The countryside in this area of France was gorgeous, and I finally found the fall color I had been searching for since September! Poplars, maples and sumacs were shedding their red and gold, yet the pastureland was still very green, with the occasional crop of blooming bright yellow rapeseed. Once inland we traded the sunlight for clouds and rain, but the warmth of the sunshine that had accompanied us on our entire journey through Normandy up until this point warmed us on the rest of the trip home.

A month of gratitude, part une

The season of being thankful has begun, kicked off by Veteran’s day here in the United States, the official holiday honoring armed service veterans. The 11^th is the official day of remembrance, and it should be distinguished from Memorial Day, which honors those who died while serving. Last year we visited the D-Day beaches in Normandy and with the memories from that trip still so vivid, the holiday seems particularly poignant this year. And so today a thank you, from our family to all those who serve and protect the country that we call home.
 

The American cemetery in Normandy, France

November 11^th is also Lāčplēša diena, the Latvian commemorative holiday marking the anniversary of the Latvian national army's victory 93 years ago today. Although independence was proclaimed November 18^th of 1918, Soviet and German troops still occupied the country until the decisive battle almost a year later. Lit candles are placed in windows throughout Rīga to honor the freedom fighters who fought for Latvia’s independence.

It isn’t just the holidays and the approach of Thanksgiving that has me reflecting. I have a score of things to be grateful for, each a reminder of the multitude of people and things in my life that fill each day with love and happiness.

The first came a few weeks ago when we finally left our temporary apartment to move into our new home. Our belongings arrived soon after, and the comfort of having our clothes, our kitchen, our furniture quickly superseded  the temporary inconvenience of boxes piled high throughout the house. After the 6 months spent waiting on our apartment in Clermont-Ferrand, I am immensely grateful to be warm and cozy in our own home before the holidays, so quickly after our move.

The second gift arrived a week ago in the form of my mother. Her assistance has been invaluable; the unpacking, cleaning, cooking and care of Lauris and Mikus seemed insurmountable before her arrival, and in only one week we have gotten so much done that it seems like we’ve been living here for months.

Photo credit: my mom

 

The third came as somewhat of a surprise to me – Mikus has taken his first steps. On the 10th we counted ten unassisted steps, tiny but distinctive nonetheless, and once we get a good video I shall be showing it off.

It isn’t often enough that I slow down and take stock of all the blessings bestowed upon me and my family. Especially recently, after moving back from France and during all the chaos that has ensued, I have taken for granted the family and friends that have been there for us every step of the way. This month I have decided to take some time every day to think about how very fortunate I am to have been blessed with a wonderful husband, two healthy children, a foyer to be a femme to!

* Today I wish to mention how thankful I am that my sister and her family in Brooklyn were spared the fury of Hurricane Sandy and the subsequent nor’easter, and how very proud I am of their volunteer efforts to help their neighbors and those not as fortunate.

 

Veterans Day in Greenville

"To us in America, the reflections of Armistice Day will be filled with solemn pride in the heroism of those who died in the country’s service and with gratitude for the victory, both because of the thing from which it has freed us and because of the opportunity it has given America to show her sympathy with peace and justice in the councils of the nations…" - President Wilson upon proclaiming November 11^th as Armistice Day in November of 1919

Although the end of World War II only came with the Treaty of Versailles on June 28^th of 1919, November 11^th is generally considered as the end of the war, as the armistice between the Allied nations and Germany went into effect on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day of the eleventh month. On June 1^st, 1954, after WWII and the Korean War, Armistice Day became a day to honor American veterans of all wars, not just the first World War.

While living in France, Veterans Day coincided with our visit to Normandy one year. I was pregnant with Mikus, and Lauris was too young to understand the meaning of the memorials and cemeteries we visited. Last year we talked also about Lāčplēša diena, the Latvian commemorative holiday marking the anniversary of the Latvian national army's victory 94 years ago today, but it was still too soon. This year, coming soon on the heels of a visit to the Marine Corps Recruit Depot Parris Island (while I was viewing Frank Lloyd Wright’s Auldbrass Plantation), once again the topic of Veterans Day was brought up, this time at the Greenville County Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Lauris seemed to understand the concept of a memorial this time, although I believe there will be more questions in the coming days.

Located in Cleveland Park just south of the Greenville Zoo, the memorial reminds me a little of the Vietnam Memorial in Washington DC, which Lauris and I visited last year around this time. Adjacent are several more plaques and stones: one in honor of those who served in Grenada, Lebanon, Panama and the Persian Gulf, another dedicated to veterans of World War II, Korea and Vietnam, a bench commemorating 63^rd Troop Carrier Wing (H) and a Garden Club tribute to the Armed Forces of America.

Set near an often-used hiking/biking trail, just next to a quiet brook and mini-park, I am sure hundreds will pass by this Veterans Day weekend. I wish for all to have the chance to reflect on the sacrifices by our veterans and those defending our country and way of life, as well as the sacrifices of the families of our soldiers and veterans. Thank you - not only on this day of commemoration, but every day; may we prove ourselves worthy of your sacrifice.

-There will be a wreath laying and flag retirement ceremony at the memorial at 1pm today, for those in the Greenville area.
-An article published in the Fayetteville Observer detailing one Latvians military career: From Latvia to Fort Bragg, Charles Brigis had a remarkable military career. According to his grandson, the report omits "that he was a champion US marksman for the International Force in occupied Austria, (that he) found (his) son in Europe after believing he was dead, (and that he) earned a second Purple Heart in Vietnam."
-This educational infographic helps explain the significance of Lāčplēša diena and the events leading up to it: What is Lāčplēša diena?

I’m getting old.

It’s one celebration after another this month, as we observed Lauris’s 18 month birthday and then Latvia’s independence day. I've neglected to mention the first of the bunch, this was my 30^th birthday. Sandwiched between our Normandy trip and the Halloween party, I didn’t have the energy (nor the will) to organize anything, and so all the planning was left to Roberts. 

My expectation was flowers and dinner, and Roberts didn’t disappoint. The day before the dreaded 30 I came home to find vases of flowers scattered through the house. And then although the day itself was spent preparing for the Halloween party and cleaning house, in the evening a sitter arrived to take care of Lauris while we went out to dinner.

My quest for the best truffade in Clermont-Ferrand continued with a meal at La Caveau, which has been recommended to me by several friends especially for this Auvergne dish. The atmosphere (which was exactly what the name promised) was excellent, the room we were seated in held only four tables and all the cooking was done right there on the spot. We ordered chicken and beef (served with a blue cheese sauce), and both were equally delicious, but the champion was the truffade, which definitely ranks among my favorites here in Clermont.

Spoiled rotten!

The biggest surprise of my birthday came in the form of various packages that started arriving in the mail even a few days before, and continued turning up for a whole week. I first opened my present from my husband, in fact I should say presents, 30 individually wrapped gifts he and Lauris had been drawing, gathering and wrapping for who knows how long. I thought it was very cute, how he was sticking to the theme of thirty, and should have known it was no coincidence when I opened the present from my godmother, 30 of her favorite poems on colored sheets of paper. Then, the list of 30 things from my aunt and her family, the artwork of thirty leaves from my godson and family (along with a list of 30 breads to make and 30 Latvian centers in North America), another list of 30 from my grandmother along with a selection of 30 tea sachets, and a 30 song CD compilation from my cousin in Montreal. My sister and her husband continued the leaf theme with a 30 page book with pressed leaves they had gathered in Brooklyn (and 30 Reese’s!) The kicker, thirty individually wrapped presents from my parents and siblings in Chicago containing among other things; the traditional Latvian birthday cake (kliņģeris), chocolate, a framed piece of art of 30 leaves personally gathered, scanned and arranged, a few perfectly sized maternity shirts and a ton of other stuff! It was only a week later that I learned my sweet husband had come up with the idea and coordinated these mailings; thanks to him and all the participants for the best birthday, ever.

So I’m a year older, a year wiser. It isn’t as traumatic as I expected it to feel, to know that I’ve lived three decades; this is partly due to the adventure of everyday life here in France, but most of the credit belongs to my loving husband and son, who continue to make each and every day a new adventure.

The Saluda River at Dolly Cooper Park

There are those days when I just have to get outside, but the state parks are at capacity and the mountains are too far. Nearby Lake Conestee Nature Preserve is a fantastic urban green space, but sometimes I just need something a little different. Thanks to AllTrails, I’ve found some hikes in unexpected places – most recently, Dolly Cooper Park.

Although technically in Anderson County, the park is just across the Saluda River from Greenville County in Powdersville, about a 15-minute drive southwest. After cutting over to River Rd. From Anderson Road, visitors pass by the Recycling Center before entering the park. A paved parking area near the front accommodates visitors to the front ball field, and then an enormous three-level gravel lot handles additional parking for the disc golf fields and the baseball field. There is a paved, third lot near the river and canoe launch which should re-open with the conclusion of the construction.

Currently home to a full 18-hole disc golf course and a couple of ball fields, the park has enormous potential in its 40-acres. This year Anderson County Parks launched a $350,000 construction project, putting boulders up to prevent instances of vandalism, as well as constructing a new kayak launch to replace the old plastic one that kept being damaged in floods.

The shore line access trail project has yet to be completed, but a new trail has been paved that curves east along the Saluda from the pier. The trailhead to the River Walk is by the kayak launch parking lot. It meanders between the open fields of the park and the strip of forest that lines the Saluda. The ¼ mile-long trail offers access to multiple spur trails that provide views of the river, and ends near an old bridge foundation.

Dolly Cooper Park was named for M.J. ‘Dolly’ Cooper, who was elected to the S.C. House of Representatives in 1974 on a platform of bringing more health care services to Pelzer, Piedmont and Williamston, and served in House District 10 for 16 years. Cooper was known for his World War II military service, where he served as a combat infantryman with the 30th Infantry Division. He saw 11 months of combat in Europe including action at Normandy & the Battle of the Bulge, and he was awarded the Purple Heart, Bronze Star, American Defense Silver Medal and the Combat Infantry Badge.

The park was briefly closed in 2016 due to lack of funding. A proposed tax hike was not passed by the County Council, and it was mentioned that without additional funds it was too hard to keep the park maintained and safe. However the canoe/kayak launch is one of the only public launches on the Saluda, and after public outcry the park was soon reopened. While vandalism has been a problem over the years, it seems as though recently there has been a push to upgrade the park as Anderson County moves forward with a park and recreation master plan. In my opinion the park could benefit from a few work days to get the litter picked up and the kudzu under control – as could most large parks in the Upstate. There is plenty of room for a playground, and this might be a great spot for a Kids in Parks TRACK Trail. A lot of potential, but from the sound of it, only a little funding...

So as to not to end this post on a negative note, here are the things that will bring me back to Dolly Cooper:

• The hardwoods lining the Saluda put on a pretty show in autumn
• Public river access to the Saluda is rare on this section, with the boat ramp on the Saluda River in Pelzer one of the only other spots that comes to mind
• We had the place to ourselves
• With 40 acres of park it’s easy to put together a few mile walk
• It’s only a 15 minute drive
• The Saluda is a beautiful river, with little development visible on its shores
• You can always find beauty in nature, no matter how urban the park!

Good luck to the folks over in Anderson County with the park upgrade, and hopefully the boat dock is finished soon. Is there anything you would like to see happen in Dolly Cooper? Let me know in the comments!

A Star-Spangled Fourth of July at Fort McHenry

Every so often our vacation plans align with the calendar in such a way that what would have already been an incredible experience becomes extraordinary due to the perfect alignment of date and place. Such was the case with our Veterans Day trip to Normandy, which included stops at Omaha Beach and the American Cemetery; it was a somber and emotional experience which has given new meaning to our Veterans Day remembrances. Our recent trip to Baltimore coincided with the 4^th of July, and I immediately realized this would be another one of those occasions; Fort McHenry is the birthplace of the American anthem!

Many people don’t realize that “The Star-Spangled Banner” wasn’t written during the American Revolution, and fewer still can name the war that inspired the words we all know by heart. It was the events of the Battle of Baltimore during the War of 1812 that prompted Francis Scott Key to write the poem that is today our National Anthem, and the Fourth of July was the perfect day for a visit.

Star-shaped Fort McHenry in center, visitor center next to red pin

A week before the battle, a young lawyer set sail from Baltimore along with Col. John S. Skinner, US Commissioner General of Prisoners. They were on a mission to gain release of a prisoner, Dr. William Beanes, and reached the British fleet on September 7^th. After a few days of negotiations on the waters of the Chesapeake they had arranged for Beanes to go free, but because during this time they had learned of the British plan to attack Baltimore, they were detained.

View from bastions over harbor, Francis Scott Key Bridge on right in distance

Washington had already burned, but Baltimore was better prepared due in large part to Fort McHenry’s defensive position guarding the entrance to the harbor. The British attacked the Fort from the water at dawn on the 13^th, simultaneous to an attack on the east side of Baltimore. 25 hours later, after some 1,500-1,800 shells and rockets, the bombships withdrew down the river. As the British sailed away the Americans fired the morning gun, hoisted the Star-Spangled Banner and played Yankee Doodle.

Fort McHenry served as an active military post for the next 100 years, although it would never again see enemy fire. A temporary prison for Confederate soldiers during the Civil War and a hospital for WWI veterans from 1917-1923, the Fort became a national park in 1925. Today it is a national monument and historic shrine, the only park in the United States to have this distinction.

The Fort is accessible by harbor ferry, but we opted to drive, passing through Federal Hill and out through Locust Point. We had sailed past Fort McHenry in the dark a few nights ago on our Spirit of Baltimore cruise, a journey that brought us all the way to Francis Scott Key Bridge, the approximate location Key would have watched the bombardment from (about 4 miles out). Fun fact; the British had a range of about 2 miles with their mortars, while the Americans were effective only 1 ½ mile with the Smoothbore artillery. However the Americans only suffered two casualties – a result of a direct hit on the southwest bastion.

Start your tour of Fort McHenry in the Visitor Center. After paying admission and picking up Jr. Ranger booklets we headed into the museum where the film soon started. This was one of the highlights of our visit; as the movie ended the Star-Spangled Banner sounded out from the speakers, the enormous screen rolling up to reveal the Fort with American flag flying proudly directly behind. The words of our anthem came to life, watching the fort and flag revealed in a similar fashion to what Francis Scott Key would have seen in the early hours of September 14^th. After jotting down notes aboard the truce ship, Key returned to Baltimore and wrote a poem titled "Defence of Fort McHenry." Published the next day, it was soon sung to the tune of "To Anacreon in Heaven" and is now known as "The Star-Spangled Banner." 

From the Visitor Center we headed out into the heat of the day to explore the fort. During the bombardment the guns were manned by 60 artillerymen – the remaining 70 were sick, had deserted, or were under military guard. We entered through the Sally Port, passed the Civil War guardhouse, and one by one explored the barracks, the officer’s quarters, the powder magazine and finally the bastions under the flag waving crisply in the harbor breeze. The original flag (which measured 42 by 30 feet) that inspired Key was made by Mary Pickersgill, and today is displayed in the Smithsonian Institution's Museum of American History in Washington, D.C.

A second highlight of the Fort McHenry trip was watching reenactors fire a cannon. As commands were issued and orders followed, the whole firing process was explained to the spectators. Afterwards visitors could get an up-close look at the weapon and ask questions. We continued our tour by descending to the sea wall, circling the peninsula and enjoying the view of the harbor, before finally returning to the visitor center and starting our journey back to South Carolina.

The Fort had a special schedule of activities on our visit in honor of Independence Day, but normal summer activities include daily flag changes, interpretive programs, living history features and of course, the self-guided tour of the star fort and grounds. Fort McHenry is also on the Star-Spangled Banner National Historic Trail (which tells the story of the events, people, and places that led to the birth of our National Anthem), and is located in the Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network and the Baltimore National Heritage Area. For more information about the fort, operating hours, special events, fees and more, visit the official Fort McHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine website.

Le Spice of Spartanburg

Owners Nicolas and Amonrat Dhers are hard at work in the kitchen every time we visit, far more noticeable than the restaurant’s white wooden sign out on Abernathy Highway. We had passed the unassuming sign often on our way to Barnet Park and downtown Spartanburg, but didn’t give it a second thought until a friend suggested lunch after a morning at Hatcher Garden Woodland Preserve. Having tasted a pain au chocolat (here called choco croissant) just as light and flaky as I remember from our time living in France, I brought Roberts in so he could judge for himself.

While it might have been the French pastries that first brought us to Le Spice Restaurant and Bakery, it is the eclectic international fusion that brings us back; the French favorites mingle with Thai, Cuban and Mexican in a fascinating selection of breakfast and lunch dishes. Amonrat is from a small village in Thailand, and Nicolas from the Normandy region in France; the two met while working in the food industry in Miami, setting the stage for one of the Upstate’s most captivating international restaurants.

Chef's daily special, Buffalo turkey crêpe w/ carrot ginger soup

The menu isn’t overwhelming; there is a soup & salad section, the crêpes, sandwiches and house specialties. However I still haven’t managed to try everything, as favorites from previous visits vie with the as-of-yet unexperienced options. From the French end of things there are of course the crêpes, but also escargot, Quiche Lorraine, Niçoise salad and the Croque-monsieur. Mexican and Cuban flavors also make an appearance in the crêpe menu, with a Cuban chicken option that features pork belly, Swiss cheese and creamy mustard sauce, or La Mexicaine with cheddar cheese, guac, onions, peppers and tomatoes. These appear side-by-side on the menu with more traditional crepes: La Rousse with fresh salmon, creamy pink tomato sauce and Swiss, or the bacon, egg & brie.

The Duck Bun

We’ve delighted finding Thai flavors in the sandwiches, a popular choice being the Duck Bun: roasted duck, sriracha aioli, red onion jam and cilantro on a brioche bun. The Bangbang Banh Mi features marinated pork, aioli, carrots, onions, cornichon pickles, cucumber and bangbang sauce on baguette. The Thai Green Curry Bowl is a house specialty, while the Thai Pulled Pork sandwich offers a Thai twist on a southern classic.

The front entrance, with Chef Nicolas cooking up a storm in the kitchen

The little house with the blue door creates a welcoming atmosphere, with plenty of seating options. When we arrive with a group of moms (kids in tow), we’ll often choose to sit in the first room, the family-style table allowing us all to sit together without disturbing other patrons. Other times we sit in the main dining room with light streaming in through the large windows, while on a warm spring day we might venture out to the patio and listen to the breeze in the forest surrounding the small creek on its way to the North Tyger River.

If you get there early enough you might be able to sample one of the bacon chocolate cookies for dessert, although don’t be despondent if you miss out – there are plenty of other mouthwatering options such as maple sea salt pecan pie and lemon meringue to tempt your taste buds. In lieu of dessert we’ll often purchase bread to take home, the multi grain loaves soft and pillowy, sometimes disappearing before their intended role in lunch the following day.

A raspberry Danish, choco croissant and cinnamon roll

Le Spice is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8am to 3pm. Everything is cooked fresh and to order, but there is a call-ahead option if you’re short on time. Le Spice does to-go orders, as well as catering, whole pies, and a Chef’s table option. Located at 8881 Warren H. Abernathy Hwy. in Spartanburg, Le Spice can be found online on Facebook and Instagram.

This article is part of the series Food on Friday.

Le Spice has also been featured in Spartanburg Magazine and in the new book by Hub City Press, A Taste of Spartanburg.

A Baltic Christmas Day 1 - Advent

Countdowns to Christmas are a holiday tradition around the world. Growing up my siblings and I always had an advent calendar for awaiting Christmas Eve: some years with an image, poem or fragment of a story, other years appealing to the sweet tooth with chocolates. Last year my boys were given Playmobil calendars, with a toy a day concluding in a holiday tableau. And this time of year pinterest is awash with DIY advent calendar ideas: colorful boxes with small toys, 25 bags hung with clothespins, a Christmas tree with activity cards, and decorative envelopes containing good deeds to complete in the days preceding the holidays.

Considered a time of expectant waiting and preparation for the celebration of Christmas, many Western Christian Churches observe advent. However, folk traditions vary from country to country. In England it was a custom for poor women to carry around the "Advent images", two dolls dressed to represent Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary, and to receive a coin from everyone to whom they were exhibited. In the Normandy region of France farmers employed children to run through the fields and orchards armed with torches, lighting on fire bundles of straw - believed to flush out rodents responsible for damage to the crops. And during the last days of Advent in Italy the Calabrian pifferari bagpipe players enter into Rome to play before the shrines of Mary.

Celebrating the fourth advent in Rīga, Latvia

Many of these folk traditions have died out, but the tradition of keeping an Advent wreath in churches and homes survives. Advent starts on the fourth Sunday before December 25, and a candle in the wreath is lit weekly beginning on that first Sunday. Latvians enjoy bringing the outdoors in, fashioning a wreath of spruce, fir or in some years holly to adorn the holiday table and bring light and fragrance to our annual countdown.

This year please join me in counting down the days to the holidays not with a calendar or wreath but with 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas! In hopes of sharing with you some of my favorite things about the season, I have asked some fellow Baltic bloggers to help showcase Estonian, Latvian and Lithuanian holiday food, crafts and traditions. I hope you will find inspiration, a craft project or simply some holiday cheer in the posts featured this month; we have recipes for traditional Estonian holiday food, discussions of Lithuanian Christmas traditions, some lovely Latvian winter crafts, snippets of Baltic holiday music and so much more! See you tomorrow for Day 2 of The 24 Days of a Baltic Christmas featuring Elga Ozols and “The Not So Jolly Fat Man of a Latvian Christmas”!

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