From Pisgah to Cherokee on the Blue Ridge Parkway

The Blue Ridge Parkway stretches for 469 miles through the Appalachians in the states of North Carolina and Virginia, a ribbon of road connecting Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains National Parks. Owned and managed by the US Park Service, the Parkway picks up where the Skyline Drive leaves off, ending at GSMNP and the Cherokee Indian Reservation in NC. The common way of referring to a specific area on the Parkway is by milepost, starting at 0 at the northernmost point and increasing as you travel south.

Being in that the southern terminus of the Parkway is only a 2 hour drive from Greenville, that puts about 100 miles of the scenic roadway within easy traveling distance for a weekend trip, or better yet, a long weekend. We’ve explored a good bit of the section between Mt. Mitchell and Balsam, but the very last bit had somehow escaped our wanderings – that is, until our Great Smoky Mountain National Park tour.

After circumnavigating the entire eastern section of GSMNP over a several day period, we spent the night in Cherokee, and fortified by a delicious breakfast of eggs and pancakes at Peter’s Pancakes and Waffles we set off for home. With blue skies above and the whole day ahead we decided to travel a good portion of the way on the Blue Ridge Parkway, exiting at milepost 412.2 and US 276. This would double our travel time, but give us 88 miles on the Parkway and then take us through scenic Pisgah National Forest and the town of Brevard.

Not even 5 miles in and we had pulled off on at least five scenic overlooks; the view from each was better than the last! As it became apparent that we wouldn’t be able to stop at each and every one, we prioritized; here are the highlights of this section of the Parkway.

Waterrock Knob, Milepost (MP) 451.2

With a tiny Visitor Center and pit-toilet facilities, it wasn’t the amenities that drew us to Waterrock – it was the short hike to the summit. The 1.2 mile round-trip hike has an elevation gain of 600 feet, the strenuous uphill climb to the top rewarded with views of Clingmans Dome, Mount LeConte and Mount Guyot, the highest peaks of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The first ¼ of a mile is paved, and as we kept climbing the view opened up, eventually bringing us to a rocky outcrop that featured the best views.

Richland Balsam Overlook, MP 431.4

These dozen miles of the Parkway are the highest, and the very highest point is Richland Balsam at 6,047ft. Although there is a moderate, 1.25-mile loop trail that leaves from this area, we settled for the views off to the south and to the west in addition to a few pictures with the large sign.

Devil’s Courthouse, MP 422.4

According to Cherokee legend, this geological formation was home to the spirit Judaculla. The parking area provides a good view of the bare cliffs, but to reach the top will be a 0.9-mile hike taking you up about 150ft in elevation. The first half of the trail is paved, taking you alongside the Parkway to the ridgeline where the pavement turns to dirt. Soon after you’ll reach the viewing area on the rock outcropping, with 360˚ views of the mountains. On my visit numerous fools had ventured over the wall to take selfies, their foray endangering not only their own lives, but the habitat of the rare peregrine falcons that nest on the cliffs. I enjoyed the markers that helped identify various landmarks in the distance (such as Caesars Head and Sam Knob), but the view was marred by the loud, brightly-clothed selfie-takers in flagrant disregard of the posted placards. I waited for a few clouds to roll in, and then returned to the parking area to rejoin the boys who were roaming the parking lot looking for states they had not yet crossed off on their license plate hunt.

Sam Knob, MP 420
Turn on FR 816 (Black Balsam Road) just past mile marker 420 and park at the end of the road for this 2.2 mile hike that will take you to the top of Sam Knob (elevation 6,045 feet), on the edge of the Shining Rock Wilderness. After climbing 570 ft in elevation you'll find panoramic views from rocky outcrops in the heath balds, gorgeous any time of year! 

Graveyard Fields Overlook, MP 418.8

This area takes its name from the stumps that were left after decades of logging and a couple of intense forest fires, when the charred stumps looked like tombstones. The 2.2 mile Graveyard Fields Loop Trail takes visitors through the mountain laurel and rhododendron, across the expanse of berry bushes and (what in the springtime would be) wildflowers, with spur trails to a couple of waterfalls. The parking lot tends to fill up quickly, and the trial can be crowded in the fall and spring.

Looking Glass Rock Overlook, MP 417

This overlook features a view of the mountain of bare rock that seemingly shines in the sun like a looking glass. An 0.8 mile trail leads to a swimming hole at the base of a waterfall, which over the years has earned the trail the name of “Skinny Dip Falls Trail.” We left this hike for another visit, as we still had creek-exploring session in store for us on the Pisgah, but made a note to return in the future for a summer hike.

We turned off the Parkway at MP 412 onto US-276, the Forest Heritage Scenic Byway. Winding our way through Pisgah National Forest we passed a few of our favorite Pisgah destinations including the Pink Beds Picnic Area, the Cradle of Forestry, Sliding Rock, Moore Cove Falls and Looking Glass Falls. A short distance from the falls we pulled over for lunch, utilizing a picnic table to eat and Looking Glass Creek to pass the time. As the sun slowly sank behind the mountains we continued south through Brevard, crossing into South Carolina and Caesars Head State Park just in time to catch the very last daylight reflecting on Caesar’s Head. And then it was a race against autumn in our descent, the forests becoming greener as we drove down to the Piedmont. However, it wasn’t but another week until fall caught up to us, the brilliant hues of the Blue Ridge Parkway following us home to Greenville.  

North Carolina Blue Ridge Parkway experiences by milepost here.

Blue Ridge Parkway map here. 

Craggy Gardens, autumn

We hit the road early one morning and headed north to Asheville where we jumped on the Blue Ridge Parkway headed east. The annual fall color show had started in the upper elevations (see my post on Graveyard Fields), and the ride up US-25 was a vibrant gradient attesting to the descent of fall foliage into the foothills over the past two weeks.

We had intended to visit Craggy Gardens last Sunday, but were sidetracked by Hurricane Nate’s remnants which included tornadoes and severe weather across the Upstate and Asheville area. It was our hope that being among the sections with higher elevations on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Craggy Gardens area would not yet be past prime; it seems that predictions for an early leaf-peeping season have not been completely on track, and there was plenty of color to be seen on the Parkway between Asheville and Craggy Gardens, with another week or so to come.

The twisted, jagged, rocky “crags” give Craggy Gardens its name, but the high elevation summits are best known for the colorful display of rhododendron that blanket the area in June. However, the fall foliage displays on this section are not to be discounted; the 360° views from the overlooks and trails allow you to see a wide expanse of the Blue Ridge, and the stunted birch trees, mountain ash with their colorful berries, and the heath balds with the various sedges, blueberry and blackberry plants you’ll see on your hikes have their own hues to admire.

Located between milepost 363 and 370, there are three sections to visit: the Craggy Gardens Picnic Area  at milepost 367.6, the Craggy Gardens Visitor Center at the Gap at milepost 364.4, and the Craggy Dome View & Hike to Craggy Pinnacle at milepost 364.1.

source: Virtual Blue Ridge

We started our explorations at the Craggy Gardens Visitor Center. Although the Visitor Center hadn’t opened yet (please see hours here), we wanted to hit the trail first anyways. Being as the majority of the mountain was socked in with thick clouds rolling through, we selected the Craggy Gardens trail for our first hike, knowing that the views from Craggy Pinnacle would be better later in the day after the fog lifted. The trail can be accessed from the south end of the Visitor Center Parking area and leads to the north end of the Picnic Area in Craggy Flats. Just after leaving the parking area the trail intersects with the Mountains to Sea trail: head right and it’s 4 miles to Douglas Falls, keep straight for Craggy Gardens.

We hiked uphill through a forest of stunted, twisted high-elevation mountain ash, birch, and beech trees in a dense mist. Far from being spooky, the effect was mesmerizing; it seemed we were the only people on the trail as sound was muted and visibility reduced. After passing a small spring we soon came to the historic trail shelter. The logs used to build the shelter 100 years ago are the only American chestnuts you’ll find in the area; these magnificent trees were wiped out from the region by the introduced Chestnut blight, much as the hemlocks are currently being decimated by the hemlock woolly adelgid.

From the shelter, you can go left on a side path to explore the "gardens". Grassy meadows are being encroached upon by shrubs and trees without human & natural intervention, and Catawba rhododendron thickets with their twisted trunks are interspersed with mountain laurel, the pink blooms of which bloom soon after the rhododendron in the summer. We paused at the overlook to see if a break in the fog might offer a view of the mountains, and were rewarded with a short glimpse of Craggy Knob before the mist rolled back in.

From the shelter and bald it’s roughly 8/10^ths of a mile to the Craggy Gardens picnic area, but that’s mostly downhill; you’ll get a good workout coming back up. We chose to park at the Visitor Center and hike the 0.7 miles to the shelter, bald and observation point, and save the picnic area for lunch – we would drive to it after returning to the parking area. Follow the signs from milepost 367.6, and you’ll find yourself in the Craggy Garden flats; a sheltered area with picnic tables, restrooms and plenty of parking once the smaller lots at the overlook and Visitor Center have filled up.

View of picnic area and parking from trailhead to Craggy Gardens

View of trailhead and our picnic spot in Craggy Gardens picnic area

After emerging from the Gardens we made a stop at the now-open Visitor Center to pick up Jr. Ranger folders for the kids; the Blue Ridge Parkway program offers the badge after completion of the activities on the folder and one worksheet. Each section of the Parkway has its own worksheet, and as the kids complete multiple worksheets they earn additional prizes. Across the road from the Visitor Center is another scenic viewpoint, and during breaks in the fog we had a view of the Craggy Gardens tunnel. We took a deep breath of moist mountain air and then loaded up the car for the very short drive east for our next hike – Craggy Pinnacle.

View of Burnett Reservoir from Craggy Gardens Visitor Center

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The Craggy Gardens Visitor Center and trail is on the portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway that stretches from Asheville to Blowing Rock. I cover the western-most section of the Parkway in my post From Pisgah to Cherokee on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Craggy Pinnacle tunnel

Blue Ridge Parkway and Stone Mountain State Park

Upon departing from the Julian Price Memorial Park campground we were in the final stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway portion of our vacation; still, around each curve, over each hill, after each mile that we drove we found another scenic viewpoint to stop at, another vista to take our breath away, another glimpse of the blue hills that have given the Parkway its name.

 

There are miles upon miles of trails departing from the Parkway, everything from long hikes to short strolls like the “Jumpinoff Rock” trail at mile marker 260.6. We didn’t take advantage of these options to the fullest because of time constraints, but looking back at our trip I wish we had pulled off the highway more to explore. The various recreation areas (such as Julian Price Memorial Park that we camped in the previous night, or Linville Falls which we explored the day before) have miles of trails, and there is always the Appalachian Trail. Running parallel to the parkway from mile 0 to marker 103, hiking the AT has always been a dream of mine, however I feel as though I’ve at least gotten glimpses into the things I have in store for me some distant day, through the treks we made these last three days.

 

Our driving tour was far from over however, we still had some 80 miles to cover before our final exit from the Parkway. After numerous stops to stretch our legs, change a diaper, photograph an especially scenic spot or simply breathe the fresh mountain air we arrived at Stone Mountain State Park. A short distance from the Blue Ridge Parkway (unlike Mt. Mitchell which is adjacent to the highway), the park is famous for the 600 foot granite dome that towers over the park as well as the mountain climbing opportunities it has to offer to those more daring than me.

A selfie at the base of Stone Mountain, looking up

 

After a stop at the Park Office to obtain a map we continued to the lower trailhead parking lot. From this point several trails depart, including the 4.5 mile Stone Mountain Loop trail marked “strenuous” in my notes. I was sure we would not be able to complete the length that day due to time and child constraints, but I like to think I’ll have the chance someday. Taking hikers across the summit of Stone Mountain, it loops past a 200 foot waterfall and the Hutchinson Homestead. We were hoping to make it far enough to check out the homestead and possible get some great views of the dome itself.

 

The magnificent Stone Mountain is part of a 25 square-mile pluton, an igneous rock formed beneath the surface of the earth by molten lava. Time and the elements have eroded the layers of rock atop the granite block leaving the outcrop that is visible today, and in 1969 the park was established to protect the area. During our hike I experienced the strongest feeling of déjà vu; I later realized the park strongly resembled the National Forest of Fontainbleau, in France. 

Can you spot the climber on the right in the picture on the left?

 

It was near the homesite that we found the best views of the stone face. A most interesting historic site, the Hutchinson Homestead is a restored version of the farm built in the mid-19^th century. With a log cabin, barn, blacksmith shop, corn crib and meat house, visitors can get a feel for the lives of early settlers in the area. From the fields beyond there is also a convenient entry to the boulder-strewn base of the large dome.

 

We found a large, flat rock I believe is the “threshing” rock described in the Visitor Center as the spot the settlers did all their threshing, and spread out our picnic. With one eye on the oh-so-fearless boys and the other on those adventurous souls climbing Stone Mountain, I believe my heart rate increased and adrenaline started flowing much the same as if I had been the one gearing up for some mountain climbing!

What, no fence on the threshing rock?!?!

 

A short hike later we emerged back at the parking lot and packed up for our final stretch on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It turned out we would have one final stop before turning off the scenic highway, at Cumberland Knob. More a testament to the vision and work to realize the Parkway than a scenic overlook, this northernmost North Carolina stop has picnic areas and hiking trails with informational placards about the history of the Parkway. In fact, Cumberland Knob was the first Visitor Center of the Parkway as well as the location of the first paved section of this 469-mile scenic Park that stretches across two states.

 
As I returned to the car and we drove the final stretch to our exit from the Parkway, I half expected there to be some grand finale to commemorate the 170 miles we had traveled. Instead there was just the unassuming Park Service sign quietly waiting for our return to this Blue Ridge paradise.

Fall Colors in the Upstate SC and Vicinity

The fall equinox and the official end of summer are just around the corner, and you know what that means… It’s time for the annual display of fall foliage! We’re lucky to live close to so many public lands that offer a variety of hikes and drives that showcase this vibrant seasonal show, so grab your camera and hit the road for what promises to be another fantastic year of color!

WHEN TO GO:

Although the exact height of color varies from year to year, the time to go leaf-viewing is somewhat predictable based on geographic location and summer weather, and this year’s predictions are calling for a close-to-normal schedule. The Blue Ridge Mountain Foliage Guide calls for peak color October 1 through October 10 for areas above 5,000ft, and October 10-20 for areas between  4,000 and 5,000ft. This covers most spots in the Appalachians: more specifically, the Great Smoky and the Blue Ridge Mountains. To maximize your fall foliage experience, start north in the mountains late this month and in early October, and mid- to late October head to destinations closer to the Upstate.

Many of the State Parks and other popular leaf-viewing areas have up-to-date information on color levels on their websites. Here are a few links for current conditions:
The Smoky Mountain Fall Foliage map

Blue Ridge Mountain Life Fall Foliage Forecast and Guide

Appalachian State University

The Blue Ridge County Daily on facebook

Autumn on the Blue Ridge Parkway

WHERE TO GO:

A world-famous leaf-peeping destination is the Blue Ridge Parkway. The 469-mile drive meanders from North Carolina all the way to Virginia, and a longer drive on the Parkway in October through changing elevations and aspects will most likely yield some sections at peak color. Plan a hike or two at locations such as Graveyard Fields (milepost 418, elevation 5,120ft), Linville Falls (milepost 316.3, elevation 3,360ft) or Sam Knob (milepost 420, elevation 6,045ft) for the full experience. (For those looking for a longer road trip, the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park is also an autumn leaf-viewing drive destination – Blackrock Summit is an awesome hike ending in almost 360˚ views of the mountains that will soon be bursting with color!)

Blackrock Summit in Shenandoah National Park

Not too far off the Blue Ridge Parkway, these North Carolina parks will give you an early preview of color (due to their high altitude) and unbeatable views for next couple of months; Grandfather Mountain near Linville, Blowing Rock near Boone, and Mount Mitchell (highest peak in the state of NC) are three of our favorite fall destinations in the Blue Ridge Mountains. And on your way north into the Appalachians plan a stop at Looking Glass Falls near Brevard in the Pisgah National Forest; this roadside waterfall will leave you breathless!

Looking Glass Falls

Been-there, done-that in North Carolina? Head west to Georgia with a stop at the Chattooga River before making your way up to Brasstown Bald, the highest point in the state of Georgia. Scenic Anna Ruby Falls and Tallulah Falls in the awesome Tallulah Gorge also deserve a mention as two of the tallest waterfalls on this side of the Mississippi that, come autumn, cascade through a riot of color into their mountain coves.

Looking for a destination closer to home? Chimney Rock, NC is just over an hour from Greenville, and together with nearby Lake Lure and the Rocky Broad Riverwalk offer views, hikes, waterfalls and lake views galore.

View from Bald Rock near Cleveland, SC

Autumn at the Biltmore Estate is a special time, and the mountains around Asheville are well-known for the hardwood forests that turn brilliant yellows, reds and oranges this time of year. Nearby find the North Carolina Arboretum, the 343-acre preserve that becomes a kaleidoscope of colors every fall.

Just because the viewing tower at Sassafras Mountain is still under construction shouldn’t keep you from heading up to the highest point in South Carolina for spectacular views of the leaves turning in four states!

Triple Falls in DuPont State Forest

Any one of the dozens of waterfalls in the Upstate and nearby North Carolina will offer spectacular scenery with a backdrop of color as the leaves turn. Head to DuPont State Forest and the Hooker Falls area for a 3-mile hike that encompasses three waterfalls including the majestic Triple Falls. Or try Raven Cliff Falls, a 2.2 mile one-way hike to the overlook or the 8-mile round trip hike to the top of one of the most scenic spots in the Upstate.

The Blue Ridge Escarpment offers a multitude of hiking and viewing options this fall. Our favorite views are from Pretty Place (verify chapel hours before making the trip!), Caesars Head State Park, Bald Rock Heritage Preserve and Jumping Off Rock, all around an hour’s drive from Greenville. The lower elevations mean peak leaf color will be in mid- to late October.

View of Lake Jocassee from Jumping Off Rock

If you’re not looking to make the drive up into the mountains, go for a drive on Scenic Highway 11 that  follows the base of the Blue Ridge Escarpment and offers unbeatable views of the foothills such as the often-photographed Table Rock. Plan a stop at Table Rock State Park or Long Shoals Wayside Park for a picnic and some fresh mountain air.

Only have a few hours to spare? Head to Paris Mountain State Park for a hike to Mountain Lake, take a ride on the Swamp Rabbit Trail, or go for a stroll in Falls Park with a stop at the iconic beech tree with its exposed roots and effervescent yellow foliage. Pack an apple from one of the nearby orchards to snack on, and enjoy fall in the Upstate in all its glory!

WHAT TO BRING:

While we still have some hot days ahead of us here in Greeville, remember that higher elevations mean cooler temperatures, especially in the a.m.; bring warm clothes and a steaming thermos of coffee, tea, hot chocolate or cider to warm up that brisk mountain morning!

Maps and directions will come in handy when you lose cellphone coverage up in the mountains! If you’re headed into the mountains, bring an atlas or state highway map for easy reference to nearby cities and possible scenic routes. Or, if you plan on taking a cruise on the Blue Ridge Drive, print off a mile-marker map for easy reference to all the pull-offs, hikes and visitors centers in the park.

Finally, bring your entire family. You’ll find that the pictures you take of your autumn excursion are nowhere near as vibrant as the memories you’ll make with your loved ones.

Sam Knob on the Blue Ridge Parkway

We had been putting off the Sam Knob hike since we noticed the signs on one of our Blue Ridge Parkway explorations but ran out of time to hike it, and the driving time (1.5 hours from Greenville) and trail difficulty are both a little too steep for me to join friends for the hike just me with the kids. Our solution was to take dad with on a sunny Saturday, making a day-trip by adding a few more stops along the way.

The parking lot at the end of Black Balsam Road was already full, but luckily we snagged one of the last spots in the overflow parking. By the time we emerged in the early afternoon both sides of the road were lined with parked cars; the Black Balsam Road trailhead is a popular destination off the Blue Ridge Parkway, with trails leading to Black Balsam Knob and Graveyard Fields.

The Sam Knob trailhead is near the info kiosk to the right of the toilets. The old roadbed leads past a campground before descending into the meadow via a long wooden staircase. This time of year there wasn’t much blooming, but I can imagine later in the summer there is quite a bit of color. Other than some asters and dandelion, the meadow was almost purely green save for the clumps of brown dried grasses; comparatively the woods were vibrant, with the bluets, trillium and various trees blooming.

I began to believe we had embarked on this hike completely unprepared, as only Lauris had a winter hat to ward off the chill of the windy spring morning. We didn’t linger long in the meadow, as the wind funneling over the saddle was cold. Reaching the cover of the forest we began the climb up Sam Knob, visible since our descent into the meadow but looking far steeper now that we were at its base.

Painted Trillium, Bluets and mountain paper birch bark

Winding up a series of switchbacks we quickly warmed up, several steep and eroded sections warranting giving the boys a hand. The blackberry thickets gave way to birch trees, and then soon we were in a rhododendron and mountain laurel tunnel. The trees and shrubs became more and more stunted until we finally emerged on the bald, rocks and shrubs covering portions but not obstructing the views.

With an elevation of 6,045 feet, Sam Knob offers great views of the Shining Rock Wilderness, the Blue Ridge Parkway and Devil’s Courthouse. Mikus got out his binoculars while Lauris explored some of the paths running through the shrubs, both parents busy supervising Vilis on the rocks. The lure of a snack got all three boys to sit down for a spell, but soon the cold wind pressed us into starting the return trip.

There’s one point where the trail seemingly splits near the top of the knob, and we took the second trail on our way out to see where it led. From the meadow Sam Knob appears to have two humps, and the diverging trail takes hikers to the top of the other summit.

As soon as we started our descent the sun came out, warming our chilled hands and tempting me to return to the bald for more photographs. One look back up the steep section of trail convinced me to save a repeat climb for a second trip – we’ll be back to hike this trail again some other season.

The Sam Knob hike is 2.2 miles roundtrip with an elevation gain of 570 feet. To reach the trailhead take the Blue Ridge Parkway to FR 816 (Black Balsam Road) near milepost 420, and follow it one mile to the parking area at the end.