Cruise into an Upstate Autumn

Autumn is here, bringing cooler temperatures and breathtaking fall foliage in the Blue Ridge Mountains! Take a driving tour this fall up the Blue Ridge Escarpment for a showcase of what our region has to offer...

Travelers Rest SC to Brevard NC Loop 

Get an early start to beat the crowds at Tandem Creperie, a local favorite in Travelers Rest. Fortified with coffee and crêpes, head north on Highway 276 into the Foothills. Passing through Marietta it is only a short detour to the Beechwood Farms farmstand, where you can stock up on freshly-picked apples to snack or pick a pumpkin from their pumpkin patch. Continuing north, soon after Cleveland, SC is your second stop, Wildcat Wayside. The roadside destination is the perfect introduction to the mountains, as Wildcat Branch tumbles down over three waterfalls on its way to the South Saluda River. Have just 15 minutes? Take a photo at the lower falls and then buy a bag of boiled peanuts from the vendor who has usually set up in the parking lot before heading on. Have 1-2 hours? Hike the 1-mile loop path that leads up past the middle falls to the upper waterfall.

 

Wildcat Branch Falls

Next stop, Bald Rock Heritage Preserve. In recent years the vandalism of this beautiful natural area has been on the uptick, however the views from the enormous granite escarpment are still unbeatable. From Greenville, stay on Highway 276 North, following signs to Caesars Head State Park. From Fire Station #64 on the left, drive 1.4 mile to turn right into Persimmon Ridge Road. Another 0.4 mi to the parking lot on the left, and you'll find the trailhead across the road. It's an easy half mile walk through the woods to the iconic view of Table Rock and the surrounding mountains from Bald Rock’s large open rock face. From this vantage point you will be able to look out over Pickens and Greenville County, as well as have a great view of Table Rock and the surrounding mountains. After returning to the trailhead, backtrack on Persimmon Ridge Road and make a right to continue up 276 into the Mountain Bridge Wilderness.

 

View from Bald Rock

As you climb the Blue Ridge Escarpment through endless switchbacks, you’ll find plenty of fall color; from the red maples and sourwoods at the very beginning of the season, to the deep reds and purples of the oaks into November. Take a break from the winding road at Caesars Head State Park, walking a few hundred feet to the overlook for more breathtaking views, and keep an eye out for migrating hawks; although the numbers are at their highest in mid-September, you’ll find members of Hawkwatch on duty through November to count the migrating raptors soaring the thermals en route south.

 

View from Caesars Head State Park overlook

Making your way north into Brevard you’ll pass through the community of Cedar Mountain, with an eclectic collection of shops, galleries and other curiosities. The descent into Brevard gives you time to discuss your options of where to stop for lunch!

 

Headed north on US-276

Once back on the road, take US-64 W to US-178 and head south from Rosman. You’ll soon cross back over the Eastern Continental Divide (the first time was on 276 crossing into NC) into South Carolina, and start your descent from the Escarpment. There’s still a 'high' point to come, however; from Rocky Bottom head east up to Sassafras Mountain, the highest point in South Carolina. From the brand new observation deck you can take in views of the entire region, with views extending to Georgia on a clear day.

 

End of summer goldenrod on Sassafras Mountain

Once you’ve descended from the escarpment, take the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway east to Table Rock State Park. Stop at the Visitor Center, walk out on the pier on Lake Oolenoy, and soak in the view from the rocking chairs overlooking a meadow, the lake and Table Rock in the distance. Have more time? Drive over to the other side of the highway and drive Table Rock State Park Road all the way around, with stops at the Lodge, Pinnacle Lake and a scenic overlook as inspired. Note: the north portion of the Park has an entry fee.

 

View of Table Rock from the Table Rock State Park Visitor Center

Continuing west on Scenic Highway 11 you’ll pass Table Rock Tea Company, and then a little further Aunt Sue’s Country Corner (Victoria Valley Vineyards just to the north) & Pumpkintown Mountain. If you’re planning a stop here, make sure to check websites for operating hours. Finally, enjoy the last light of the day reflecting the gold and orange hues of the forests blanketing the Blue Ridge Escarpment as you make your way back east on the Cherokee Foothills Parkway!

While the entire driving tour takes a good 2.5 hours, plan to make several stops along the way to enjoy the sights; I would plan 5-8 hours to allow for time at the scenic overlooks. Remember to bring a camera, a coat for once you’re up on the Escarpment, and a map if you’re not familiar with the area – you won’t have cell service for a portion of the drive. Enjoy your Blue Ridge autumn, and let me know in the comments if you have any favorite stops along this route!

 

For more options on seeing the best of autumn in the Upstate, see the following posts:

• Fall Colors in the Upstate SC and Vicinity
• Your Upstate Fall Bucket List
• Your Guide to Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway 11
• Greenville in Two Days

 

Cedar Rock Mountain of DuPont

I see them on my Instagram feed constantly – the gorgeous shots taken from atop the world in spots like Max Patch, Clingmans Dome, Graveyard Fields, Sam’s Knob. What many of these places have in common is that they are mountain summits/crests covered primarily by thick vegetation of native grasses or shrubs (instead of forest growth), providing the Insta-worthy views. Known as balds, these scenic peaks occur at high elevations in the Appalachian Mountains in places where the climate is too warm to support an alpine zone (where trees can’t grow due to short or non-existent growing seasons), but instead are a result of heavy drainage or highly acidic soils, which complicate the growth of trees.

However, the balds of the Nantahalas, Great Smoky Mountains and Blue Ridge Mountains are more than a couple hours’ drive from Greenville, and so are out of range for a casual day trip. Not so for another type of ‘bald’ that is more common in South Carolina – the granite outcrop. One of the most familiar is Bald Rock Heritage Preserve, a complex of granite outcrops with a view of the Upstate including Paris Mountain and Greenville. Another spot is Glassy Mountain in Pickens, with multiple exposed-rock areas along the 1.5 mile trail.

The “flat-rock granite outcrops” are composed of unbroken granite and granite-gneisses, and are implaced within Precambrian metamorphic rocks which are scattered on the eastern side of the Appalachian Mountains. These formations have been exposed due to the combination of uplift and erosion, and provide unobstructed, scenic views due to lack of trees – trees don’t grow on rock. Just over an hour from Greenville in the DuPont State Forest is an area with some of the most exposed granite in the region – Cedar Rock Mountain. Rising only 200′ feet above the surrounding plateau, hundreds of acres alternate between bare and moss/lichen covered rock.

The moderate, 2-mile round-trip hike to the summit of Cedar Rock Mountain on Big Rock trail rewards visitors with far-ranging views west, as well as a look at some of the interesting plant communities that call the granite outcrop home. A reminder to visitors to please stay off moss; the lichens, moss and other plants that eke out their existence on the bare rock are ultra-sensitive to human traffic.

To reach Cedar Rock Mountain, park at the Corn Mill Shoals Access Area of DuPont Forest and proceed on Corm Mill Shoals Trail on the east side of the road. Keep going past Longside Trail, and then take a left on Big Rock Trail. The trail heads steadily upward, crossing a small granite clearing and then emerging onto a large granite dome that looks over the Pisgahs. The view here is fantastic, but keep going up to the summit and through a forested segment to reach another granite area that is used as a helispot by the Forest Service. The coloring of the granite is fascinating, with Here is the intersection with Cedar Rock Trail, which forms a loop when combined with a section of Little River Trail (altogether about 4 miles from Corm Mill Shoals Access).

Peak fall color for DuPont and area is forecast to be mid-October until late October by Appalachian State University and the Smoky Mountains Fall Foliage Prediction Map. While the foliage will not be as brightly hued as further north on the Blue Ridge Parkway (due to the high percentage of softwoods interspersed with the hardwoods), the views of the Pisgah Mountains are dramatic nonetheless, making this a perfect fall hike within easy driving distance of the Upstate.

For my post on DuPont’s waterfalls, please see my post here. A map of DuPont State Recreational Forest can be found here for download, although for extensive hiking/biking/riding I would suggest picking up one of the waterproof/tear-proof topo maps from the DuPont Visitor Centers or Amazon.com.

The Bascom: A Center for the Visual Arts

We were in town for the Highlands Food & Wine Festival, and on our way from one event to the next we made the most fortuitous wrong turn...

In attempt to turn around on Franklin Road we found ourselves crossing a little creek on a storybook covered bridge before pulling into a parking area surrounded by sculpture and the beautiful buildings of The Bascom: A Center for the Visual Arts. The six-acre campus has been the center’s home since 2009, and at its heart is the three-story, 27,500-square-foot Main Building by DeWolf Architecture and Lord Aeck & Sargent Architecture. The wood structure has a timeless look, easily fooling us into thinking that it was a restored historic barn or mill. This is where the permanent collection is housed, as well as the temporary exhibitions and a café. An outdoor terrace lies to one side, while in the rear are studios, an education amphitheater and the sculpture garden.

Nearby is a 2,500 square-foot barn rebuilt for use as the ceramics studio. The Dave Drake Studio Barn is home to workshops & year-round classes for adults and children, in addition to the “Art by Appointment" custom-designed classes for individuals or groups. The adjacent PcPhail Kiln Barn houses the kiln where all the pottery made on-site is fired.

The Horst Winkler Sculpture & Nature Trail winds through the property offering up-close looks at several of the large works of art, the native flora, a brook, and a small waterfall. Once a farm, the land still bears trace of native plants such as ferns, Solomon's seal and trillium. Outdoor classrooms and a rustic pavilion offer the perfect setting for group outings, and the lovely scenery lends itself well as a backdrop for private events. You can also attend one of the festivals held on its grounds; programming at The Bascom includes a wide range of exhibitions, a permanent art collection, the aforementioned workshops, and numerous community events including a wine festival, garden festival and Autumn festival. For a list of current and upcoming exhibitions, click here.

The Will Henry Stevens Covered Bridge we entered through was built and restored traditionally to form a unique entrance to the center in 2008/2009. The lattice work of the 87ft-long bridge was originally from the Bagley Covered Bridge of Warner, New Hampshire (circa 1807). Historically spanning the Warner River, it was deemed unfit for vehicular and pedestrian traffic, and what was possibly New Hampshire's oldest covered bridge, it spent the next 40 years in storage after being removed in 1966. Nearly 60% of old-growth white pine had to be replaced, but the bridge stayed true to its original construction and used no metal fasteners or supports; the over 1,100 tree-nails, dowels and trunnels are a work of art in its own.

The Bascom has developed into a creative resource for the community, and reflects western North Carolina’s passion for the arts. From the individual studios that dot the mountain roads of the area to the artists’ communities such as the Folk Art Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway and The Bascom, the region is awash with history and culture – and sometimes it takes a ‘wrong’ turn to reveal these treasures to the casual traveler.

The Bascom Center has a facebook page, a Wordpress blog (updated by the current artist in residence), Instagram and Twitter feeds, YouTube and LinkedIn accounts in addition to their website!

Pilot Rock on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Morning view from Chestnut Cove overlook

A trail for mountain bikers, rock climbers and hikers – this challenging route on the Pisgah National Forest has it all! With a trailhead on the Blue Ridge Parkway, the Pilot Rock trail is ideal for a fall hike - cooler temperatures and vibrant autumn scenery your companion for a memorable excursion into Pisgah National Forest.

View from the Laurel Mountain Connector

There are several pull-offs in a short stretch past the Buck Springs Tunnel including the Buck Springs trailhead, Mount Pisgah Overlook & trailhead at MP 407.6, Frying Pan Mountain Trail at MP 408.5, and the campgrounds, Pisgah Inn and trailhead at Mount Pisgah, MP 408.6. Our hike to Pilot Rock started at the Buck Spring Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway, although it is possible to connect via the Pisgah Inn. Facing south from the Parkway from the parking lot a trail heads off to your right, and 500 feet later you’ll have reached the site of George Vanderbilt’s hunting lodge. In addition to the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, Vanderbilt owned 471 acres here in Buck Springs Gap where he constructed an enormous log hunting lodge; the stone foundation of the spring house is still visible today.

Buck Springs Lodge spring house foundation

When the Blue Ridge Parkway was constructed in 1961, the lodge and outbuildings were razed. We read about the lodge and site on the informational placard, and admired the grand view before continuing on. Soon we reached a split in the trail, the Laurel Mountain Trail following the ridge to the left while continuing straight takes you to the Buck Spring Trail which climbs over the top of Little Bald Mountain. Connecting Pisgah Inn with Buck Spring Lodge is a section of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, and together this network of trails allows for a small loop – we followed the white blazes of Buck Springs on the way in and the Laurel Mountain Connector on the way back from Pilot Rock.

Note - the milage on this sign is incorrect, it is NOT 2.3 miles to Yellow Gap from this point

From the Mountains-to-Sea Trail intersection with Pilot Rock Trail it is 3.6 miles south to FS 1206 (Yellow Gap Road), although we would be returning once reaching Pilot Rock. The hike starts with an uphill climb to reach the summit of Little Bald Mountain, a grass savanna that is home to Ruffed Grouse and features views to the west, especially now that the trees had started dropping their leaves.

From summit of Little Bald

From Little Bald the trail descends down a dry ridge until reaching the top of Pilot Rock - 2.5 miles and 1,300 feet later. First we passed the intersection with Buck Springs/Pilot Rock Trail, and then following orange blazes through tunnels of rhododendron the descent became rather rocky, slowing our pace as we paid careful attention to our footing on the leaf-covered trail. The granite and shale at this elevation is the result of thousands of years of erosion attacking the pluton, and soon after the forest transitions to hardwoods, the fall foliage ablaze despite the cloud cover.

Along this stretch we found mature American chestnut trees, the spiky seed husks littering the trail. Before the species was devastated by the chestnut blight these giants filled the Appalachians, numbering in the billions and providing an important food source for wildlife as well as livestock. At the beginning of the 20th century the fungal pathogen responsible for chestnut blight was accidentally imported into the US from Asia, and it rapidly spread throughout eastern forests, leaving only the rare American chestnut standing by the 1950s. The fungus enters the tree through an injury in the bark, and spreads, killing tissue as it advances - effectively girdling the tree. Despite being infected, the chestnuts we saw were survivors; it was incredible to see these trees ‘in the wild’. (There has been much success in crossing the American chestnut with the blight-resistant Chinese chestnut – for more on the work being done to reintroduce the American chestnut to the eastern forests, please visit the American Chestnut Foundation’s website.)

American chestnut tree and seed husk

Soon the trail gets steep, each switchback a reminder that you’ll soon be going the other way to return to the trailhead. A rock outcrop gave us the perfect spot for lunch, and as we fueled up we took in the views over the Pisgah.

This rock outcrop makes a good lunch stop

According to the Forest Service website, there are two access points to the rock face, which at this point on the trail will be on your left. From this vantage point the breathtaking 180° views include Funneltop Mountain, the Pink Beds Valley, and the Cradle of Forestry. Down below is Yellow Gap Road; if you kept heading downhill you would descend another 600 feet in elevation over the course of a mile, emerging on the Forest Service road at Grassy Lot Gap where there is room for a couple of cars to park. On the way is also the intersection with the Pilot Rock Extension spur trail, which provides access to the rock’s base for rock climbers looking to scale the pluton.

However, the ascent back up to Buck Springs would provide enough of a challenge to us on this excursion, and so we headed back the way we came, Vilis growing heavy in the backpack carrier before I had even traveled ½ a mile. I carried him over the more steep/treacherous sections, and he would stretch his legs on the more level sections of trail. To avoid an extra bit of a climb, take the Laurel Mountain Connector; it skirts the side of Little Bald to return to Laurel Mountain Trail. On this side of the mountain we found ourselves crossing entire hillsides covered in rocky boulders, the moss-covered rocks a landscape straight out of fairytales. A bit of warning, that although the Connector has less elevation change than crossing the summit of Little Bald, the terrain is a bit more challenging, slippery climbs in some spots with rocky ground making for slower going.

Before too long we reached the junction with the Mountains-to-Sea trail, closing the loop, and just after that arrived at the former site of the lodge. We soaked in the view yet again, and then in the parking lot almost submitted to the lure of climbing Mt. Pisgah as we still had daylight to burn – Vilis was asleep in the carrier after all! But a celebration awaited this birthday girl back in Greenville, so I took one last longing look before loading up the car and turning east on the Parkway towards Asheville.

View from Buck Springs Lodge site

Note: The NC Arboretum is located right where we turn off the Blue Ridge Parkway on our way back to Greenville, meaning the Winter Lights event could be a perfect conclusion to a day on the Blue Ridge this December. Or, if you're headed west on the Parkway, my Pisgah to Cherokee post would be a good guide of sights to see en route! Finally, check out the Meanderthals post on Buck Spring to Pilot Rock for detailed trail descriptions, maps and fantastic photos.   

Mount Pisgah

Rattlesnake Lodge

The Blue Ridge Parkway isn’t only about grand views and high elevations; it is also about art & culture (for example the Folk Art Center), and history. In our most recent trip up to the Parkway we explored Rattlesnake Lodge, the ruins of which tell the story of the 20^th century retreat that was built by Dr. Chase P. Ambler, a wealthy doctor and conservationist from Asheville. Dr. Ambler was one of the founders of the movement to establish Great Smoky Mountains National Park, led efforts to pass the Weeks Act in 1911 (which eventually led to the creation of Pisgah National Forest), and was chairman of a committee that created the Carolina Mountain Club. The CMC still exists today, and helps maintain the Mountains to Sea Trail which we would be using to reach Rattlesnake Lodge.

From Asheville we headed northeast towards Craggy Gardens, but turned left on Elk Mountain Scenic Highway somewhere past mile marker 376 but before the Tanbark Ridge Tunnel (at milepost 374). A quarter mile later we turned right onto Ox Creek Road, and the parking pull-off for Rattlesnake Ridge was on the right side about 6/10^ths of a mile further, at Bull Gap. Several large boulders mark the trailhead, and after hiking in just a hundred feet we hit the Mountains to Sea trail that stretches all the way from Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the Outer Banks. To reach the Lodge we turned east (left) at the intersection; going right would take you down to Ox Creek Road.

The initial climb up Bull Mountain utilizes numerous switchbacks to make its way up, tulip poplars slowly giving way to an oak forest with an understory of mountain laurel. We passed between a couple of enormous boulders, and in places caught glimpses of Tanbark Ridge and Bull Valley across the way. Bull Gap, Mountain and Valley are named for the bull elks that once called the Craggies their home; now the closest place you’ll see one is Cataloochee Valley.

The old road to the lodge is blazed white, with mossy stone retaining walls remaining as a testament to its sturdy construction. The carriage house was located at Bull Gap, and the road to the lodge specially constructed to be too narrow for carriages, as to ensure privacy and seclusion. As we approached the site of the historic lodge we entered a cove, and the towering hardwoods shaded us as we discovered the foundations that mark the first of the ruins of Rattlesnake Lodge – the barn.

Clockwise: barn, tool shed, chimney remains, water reservoir

Soon after the old barn we came upon the swimming pool, at one time fed by mountain water through an underground system of pipes. The neighboring rock wall and open area formed the yard of the lodge, the main building having been just on the other side of the trail. There used to be a bridge extending from the back of the lodge to the tennis court, while just a little further ahead are the remains of the spring house and tool shed. The display & map are severely faded – I found the Rattlesnake Lodge website helpful with maps and descriptions in envisioning the locations of all the outbuildings.

source: Rattlesnake Lodge website

The adjacent spring was our favorite spot within the site. An enormous dead oak tree guards the spring, the giant branches arching over the entrance like a doorway. The boys could have spent the day climbing and exploring… There were supposedly seven springs total on the property.

There are several trails intersecting here, the first of which is a spur trail that descends to the Blue Ridge Parkway at the Tanbark Ridge tunnel. Keep going, and the next intersection is near the foundations of the old tool shed which once housed a hydroelectric generator that powered the lodge. The generator was driven by water from the main reservoir, located higher up in the next drainage; follow the trail to the left (blue blazes) that heads steeply uphill to reach this reservoir. On your way you’ll see remnants of the old terra cotta pipe that supplied the hydroelectric generator with water. Just a tenth of a mile further you’ll find another spring that together with the stream fed the reservoir. Here the trail levels out, and soon ends at the Mountains to Sea trail. Turn right to loop back to the lodge site, and you’ll descend a rocky trail through tunnels of mountain laurel. About 1/10^th of a mile from the main lodge are the remains of a chimney, the only ruins still standing from the various structures that once stood here: the old corn crib, a potato house, stables, and the caretaker’s cabin.

The trail is 3.8 miles round-trip. The first portion from Bull Gap to the Lodge climbs 550 feet in elevation, but the ascent up to the second spring ups that by about 500 feet. By not continuing on to the reservoir and spring you would cut 1 mile (and the loop portion) off your hike, and you would eliminate the most challenging portion. The climb isn’t so rough going counter-clockwise around the loop, but then it’s a scramble down the precipitous section between the spring and the reservoir. Another option would be to park at the Tanbark Ridge Tunnel, but although the trail to the lodge is only ½ mile long, it’s a steep climb, and in my opinion isn’t as scenic as coming in on the Mountains to Sea Trail. For a map of the trails, click here.

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We hiked to Rattlesnake Lodge as part of the Conserving Carolina fall hike series. You can read more about Conserving Carolina here.

Whiteside Mountain

The annual fall color show is descending in elevation, now showing in the 4,000s: Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Mount Pisgah, Sam Knob, and the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s also colored up considerably in the Highlands/Cashiers area, where Whiteside Mountain offers some of the best views of Nantahala National Forest and surrounding area.

The “white side” that gives the mountain its name is a result of eons of erosion; the sheer cliffs of granitic gneiss are geologically similar to other familiar landmarks such as Looking Glass Rock on the Pisgah, and our own Upstate favorite, Table Rock.

What makes the Whiteside Mountain hike so popular is that you can have the exhilaration of standing on the edge of 750 foot high cliffs, but with safety railings helping to mitigate the risk of accidents. The relatively short hike – it’s a moderate two-mile loop trail that takes hikers to the top of Whiteside – is also a feature that can make the hike attractive to families. Even with the railings and moderate rating, this hike can still be a challenge, as it has an elevation gain of about 600 feet. Hikers should exercise caution and stay on the trail; there are steep drop-offs and other hazards on Whiteside, as with most mountain hikes.

To reach the trailhead, follow the signs for Whiteside Mountain Recreation Area from US 64 for 1 mile on Whiteside Mountain Road (SR 1600), until you reach the signed parking area on the left. There is a $2.00/day area use fee at Whiteside Mountain Recreation Area, and on weekends the lot can fill up; at this point overflow traffic is directed to keep moving until spots open up.

The trail starts steeply up the hill behind the sign boards and soon merges with an old roadbed. Not too much further the loop splits off to the left up a section of stairs. We prefer to go counter-clockwise (and up the stairs), as it gets the steep section out of the way first and we don’t have to contend with it on the descent. (If you prefer a more gradual gradient, continue on the roadbed traveling the loop clockwise.) The stairs and switchbacks take you up through the hardwood forest to the top of the ridge, on the way passing some neat geological formations, including a rock overhang and a small cliff.

Then all of the sudden you emerge onto bare rock, with views stretching south across the Chattooga River valley into Georgia and South Carolina. To your right are the round domes of the Highlands-area mountains, dotted with resorts, golf courses and large homes. There are more than a half-dozen of these viewpoints along the ridgeline, each seemingly more beautiful than the last.

The summit is about halfway, with a large rock sticking up marking the spot, elevation 4,931ft. At this point the stunted oaks and pine are interspersed with mountain laurel, a good reason to return in the spring. The area is also known for wildflowers including white snakeroot, false Solomon’s seal, speckled wood-lily and wood betony.

Standing on the summit of Whiteside

From here you’ll start the descent, but there are still multiple scenic viewpoints along the ridge. Looking outward, on your left are fantastic views of the cliffs and the portion of the mountain known as Devil’s Courthouse (not to be confused with the Devil’s Courthouse up on the Blue Ridge).

A great photo op can be found at Fool’s Rock. Named after the 1911 rescue (read more about it here), a narrow gap leads down to a second viewing area. Exercise caution, there is a gap, even with the safety guidewires.

At one point a concrete slab platform juts out over the mountainside; a relic from before the Forest Service acquired the property. The old road bed used to bring tourists up to the summit for views from this spot. The ticket booth to the attraction was the former “smallest US Post Office,” a tiny 5-foot by 6-foot structure that served from 1878 until 1953 in Whiteside Cove. “Grimshawes” (as it was called because all the postmasters were named Grimshawe) was moved back down in the 1970s, and today can be seen on Whiteside Cove Road.

During your hike keep an eye out for the peregrine falcons that call the mountain their home. The birds of prey were reintroduced to Whiteside through an endangered species program in 1985, and they return annually to nest on the rock ledges on the cliffs – another good reason to stay on the trails and to mind climbing closures (posted at parking lot).

Once you reach the opening with several large boulders (where the trail makes a sharp turn) you’ve reached the last scenic viewpoint. The northeasterly view looks towards Timber Ridge, the granitic gneiss of Chattooga Ridge visible over the valley.

From this point the trail heads back down the mountain on the old roadbed, with glimpses north and northwest into the valley as you gently descend back down to the parking area. Before we knew it we were back at the car, and as it was approaching 5pm we headed back to US 64 in hopes to see the Shadow of the Bear phenomenon.

"Shadow of the Bear" via Romantic Asheville

Starting around October 15^th, the shadow of Whiteside Mountain looks like a bear for 30 minutes around sunset. According to Romantic Asheville, the “shadow of the bear” is visible for 30 minutes each evening between 5:30-6:15 PM from mid-October through early November. The best place to see the shadow is from the Rhodes Big View Overlook on Highway 64. The overlook doesn’t have signs, but it does have pull-offs on both sides of the highway for cars, as well as a fantastic view of Whiteside Mountain and the Chattooga Ridge. It is only a few miles west of Cashiers, and just past the intersection of 64 with Whiteside Mountain Road. It had been partly sunny the whole day, but as the sun sank in the sky it descended into some clouds and we came up empty on our visit… Although we might not make it back to the Highlands/Cashiers area this fall, we’re planning a visit sometime in late February/early March, as the angle of the sun in the sky will once again bring the bear out of hibernation.

View from Rhodes Big View Overlook including Whiteside on the right

In addition to the nearby mountain towns of Highlands and Cashiers, there are plenty of other destinations in the area. These include the Cullasaja River Gorge, dozens of waterfalls like Whitewater & Silver Run, Gorges State Park, and endless other hiking possibilities on the Nantahala, Pisgah, Chattahoochee and Sumter National Forests. Happy exploring!