Five on Friday: the May edition

May in Greenville is possibly the busiest month of the year, with fun summer programs for kids kicking off, farmers markets ramping up with a bounty of spring produce, and a multitude of programs and festivals to start your summer. Here are a few that we’re looking forward to…

1. Artisphere: Greenville’s signature event, this event celebrates fine art, music, food and fun with a weekend of performers, exhibits, artist demos and more. Artisphere runs from May 12^th through Sunday the 14^th. See my post here, and visit the Artisphere website here.

2. The Duck Derby: Thousands of rubber ducks will be going over the falls in downtown Greenville this weekend during the Rotary Club’s annual fundraiser. With a game area for the kids, music from groups like My Girl My Whisky and Me, and a grand prize of free groceries for a year, this 13^th annual derby is bound to be a quacking success. The event runs from 10am to 4pm tomorrow (May 6th, 2017), but post time is 2:30pm!! Read more – Reedy River Duck Derby, or visit the official Duck Race website. 

3. The Greenville Greek festival returns this year from the 18^th through the 21^st at Saint George Greek Orthodox Cathedral downtown. Four days of delicious Greek food including gyros, saganaki and homemade pastries, kids’ rides, a stage featuring folk dancing and other acts, and tours of the Cathedral. Admission is $1, free for kids 12 and under. See my post A little bit of Greece in the Upstate and check out the main website Greek for a Day.

4. The first TD Saturday Market of the season in downtown Greenville is tomorrow! Head out to pick up fresh veggies from local farms, or just to people watch and enjoy a beautiful morning on Main Street. When we are headed up to the mountains for some hiking we’ll stop at Travelers Rest for their Saturday market, which also starts tomorrow. If you can’t make it out on Saturdays, try the Slow Food Earth Market at the Swamp Rabbit Cafe & Grocery on first and third Thursdays from 3:30-7pm or the Taylors Farmers Market from 4-8pm at Taylors Mill.

5. Park Hop: The free, summer long scavenger hunt in parks across Greenville County opens May 19^th. Kids can earn prizes just by visiting parks! For more info, visit the LiveWell Greenville website and read my post on Park Hop here.

And a bonus (not in May, but close enough)... Butterfly Adventure: The fantastic live butterfly exhibit returns to Roper Mountain Science Center on June 1^st! Walk through the butterfly adventure habitat for an up-close encounter with hundreds of butterflies in this special exhibit that runs through July 7^th. Members get in free, and while you’re there, check out the treehouses and the Living History Farm for a fun-filled, educational day in Greenville. Read my review on butterfly adventure here...

If you're looking to get out of town, remember to check out my post on 7 Natural Wonders to visit this spring in Upstate SC for some of the most interesting spots in our area to visit this spring... Wishing y’all a great weekend here in the Upstate!

A day in Midtown

The Flatiron building

Our second day in NYC was off to a slightly slower start than the previous, and so we decided to grab a Brooklyn staple for breakfast. This was the one meal I ate on repeat during our stay in NYC: toasted everything bagel with chive cream cheese, lox and capers from Bagel Schmagel. The boys were satisfied with their plain bagels, and we took it all to go as we descended into the NYC subway system. Today’s goal was to meet up with friends of ours and explore Midtown Manhattan.

bēgel šmēgel on repeat the next two weeks...

We got off in the vicinity of Madison Square Park, and headed to our only planned stop of the day: the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Historic Site. Having worked for the US Fish & Wildlife Service (President Theodore Roosevelt was a pioneering champion of wildlife conservation in America and the founder of the National Wildlife Refuge System), I’ve always been interested in the life of our 26th President, and having recently read A Splendid Savage I was hoping to bring Teddy to life for the boys as well. While the Historic Site didn’t completely live up to my expectations (some of the exhibits were empty as things are being moved around), it was still a worthy stop... and free of charge – a rarity in NYC. Theodore Roosevelt was born on the site in 1858, and you can visit five restored period rooms in the reconstructed 1848 brownstone townhouse, but only on a guided tour. In addition to these ranger-guided tours, there are also gallery rooms and a political cartoon collection for public viewing, plus a small gift shop.

Ranger: repeat after me, I state your name
Boys: I, state your name...

We were en route to meet our friends but had some time to kill, and so we stopped in the LEGO store for a few minutes. After looking around, the boys got comfortable in the back room at one of the tables, building to their hearts content. I want to know why LEGO doesn’t sell these bricks by the pound – we would have gladly paid to be able to take the boys’ creations home. Instead we settled for pictures, and headed out to the park to meet our friends and grab lunch at the Shake Shack.

Everything is awesome!

This gourmet burger joint has gotten quite the following in recent years, and while I really enjoyed my shake, the burgers and fries were just ok... not special enough to justify the 1 hour long line and wait. The best part of lunch was snagging a table in the shade of one of the giant Madison Square Park sycamores and getting to know little L.

Stomachs full, we started making our way up 5^th Avenue, past the Empire State building and the NY Public Library. On 42^nd we turned east so as to reach Grand Central Terminal, and having admired the cavernous main concourse (and its celestial ceiling) we descended to the Oyster Bar. The unmarked archway in front of the restaurant possesses unique acoustic properties that have earned it its name of the Whispering Gallery. The boys tried it out by standing at diagonal arches and whispering, and sure enough, despite the cacophony of a busy train station, they could easily hear one another’s voices.

Having made our way back to 5^th Avenue we stopped at the Rockefeller Center. Even with temperatures in the 80s there was ice in the rink (although only a couple of skaters, 2 attendants grooming the ice). Typical of New York, temperatures had dropped to the 40s two days later and the skating rink was full.

A little further past Trump Tower is Central Park, and that is where we spent the rest of the day. Having entered at the SE corner we made our way towards the zoo, then cut west. This end of the park is dotted with large exposed sections of Manhattan and Hartland schist bedrock, and the boys gamely climbed every one that they could reach. After a tumble (that resulted in a goose egg that would serve as a reminder of the day for the rest of the week) we  had to put a stop to the climbing, but it was a great excuse to watch some softball at the Heckscher Ballfields while enjoying ice cream from one of the dozens of vendors. As the sun began to sink we finally said our goodbyes, and after circling The Pond we descended to the subway to make our way back to Brooklyn.

A day in Lower Manhattan

My sister lives in NYC (Brooklyn to be exact) with her husband. This spring break we set our sights on the Big Apple, and hit the road with stops at Appomattox Courthouse, Natural Bridge State Park, Harpers Ferry and Antietam National Battlefield. Having crossed several bridges (and payed multiple tolls!) and survived what was possibly a GPS hacking incident, we finally arrived in the City That Never Sleeps – and after catching up with the sister, sleep is exactly what we did. Our first day in New York we were headed to Manhattan!

Oculus and One World Trade

To access Lower Manhattan we walked across the Brooklyn Bridge, a landmark 19^th century hybrid cable-stayed/suspension bridge that is one of the oldest bridges of either type in the United States. The bridge connecting the boroughs of Manhattan and Brooklyn was completed in 1883, the first steel-wire suspension bridge ever constructed. There are plenty of sites that give good advice on how to cross the bridge (for example here), but as long as you stay out of the bicycle lane you’ll be fine.

You can read more about DUMBO, the area on the Brooklyn end of the bridge, in my post Mikus and the Big Apple. 

Once we emerged into Manhattan we found ourselves in City Hall Park. The park was crowded, with vendors hawking everything from hot dogs and ice cream to fresh juice. We headed south along Broadway, but soon cut over to Nassau St. where the boys insisted on lunch which we ate on the steps of Federal Hall. 

Its location on Wall St. guarantees enormous crowds out front, but having stepped through the door of this National Memorial we found ourselves completely alone save for the Park Ranger stationed inside. It was here in the Federal building that George Washington took the oath of office as our first President, and this site was home to the first Congress, Supreme Court, and Executive Branch offices. The current structure was a Customs House, and later served as part of the US Sub-Treasury, however today the building serves as a museum and memorial to our first President and the creation of the United States of America.

George Washington took the oath of office standing on this stone

We continued south past the New York Stock Exchange, eventually crossing back over to Broadway to see Charging Bull and Fearless Girl. The crowds gathered around the two statues were so enormous there wasn’t much to be seen; I was most amused by the line of people waiting to take a picture of the bull’s balls. That’s right, they were lining up for the pleasure of a selfie with the rear of the bull… you can only imagine what the space between the bull and the girl looked like! We continued on to Battery Park, a bit disappointed not to be able to get a better look at the controversial statue.

Most visitors to Battery Park are there to buy their tickets to Statue of Liberty, and then board the official ferry that will take them to the National Monument. What they maybe don’t realize is that there is a National Monument right there in the middle of the park – Castle Clinton. The circular sandstone fort was initially constructed as a fortification against British invasion in 1811, one of the five forts on New York Harbor. Connected to Manhattan by a 200-ft wooden causeway and drawbridge, eventually the landfill extended Battery Park to connect the islands. Castle Clinton might be best known as America's first immigration station, where more than 8 million people arrived in the U.S. from 1855 to 1890. In its life it has been a beer garden, an exhibition hall, a theater and an aquarium, and today thousands of people impatiently stand in line around it awaiting their turn to board a ferry to Liberty Island.

I helped Lauris and Mikus work on their Jr. Ranger badges, and eventually we approached a ranger to ask a few last questions. As we approached he finished giving directions to several pairs of tourists, answering the same question multiple times and directing the flow of pedestrian traffic to the correct windows. I was expecting a quick interaction, but as Mikus asked his questions about cannons the gentleman straightened, looked around, and pronounced “boys, come with me.” The next 20 minutes were fascinating, as our unexpected tour guide brought the dusty fort to life with the boys hanging on his every word. It was with reluctance that we returned him to his chores of people-herding, but we had our own ferry to catch.

At one point in late winter we decided that if we were to visit the Statue of Liberty, we would want to enjoy the full experience. Vilis is too short for the climb up into the crown, and so we put off this particular sightseeing trip to a later date. Instead, we headed to the Whitehall Terminal to catch the free Staten Island Ferry, a favorite of tourists and locals alike for the views of Lower Manhattan, the Statue of Liberty, and the snack bar which serves beer and food during the 25 minute trip. The ferry runs 24/7, covering the 5.2 miles in the New York Harbor between the New York City boroughs of Manhattan and Staten Island. It’s my opinion that the best views of the Statue of Liberty are from Governor’s Island, Red Hook, and the Staten Island Ferry.

Lady Liberty from the Staten Island ferry

The last time I rode the ferry was one month after 9/11, smoke still visible rising from the rubble. The road trip had been in the works for quite some time, but we arrived to an unnaturally quiet NYC, even the taxicabs laying off their horns. While I still had that gut feeling of something missing as we viewed the iconic NYC skyline, it was a completely different experience seeing the sights through the eyes of the boys.

Manhattan from Staten Island ferry, October 2001

Manhattan from Staten Island ferry, April 2017

Once back in Manhattan we cut through Battery Park again and headed north on Greenwich St. to the 9/11 Memorial. After paying our respects we turned back east, and made our way through the Oculus before passing St. Paul’s Church and finding ourselves at the Manhattan end of the Brooklyn Bridge.

South Pool at the 9/11 Memorial

Although the sun was not yet setting, the golden rays of late afternoon put on a completely different show than that morning. Our legs grew heavy, but our steps across the bridge were light; we knew we would return to Manhattan during our stay in NYC…

Three Historic WWII Airplanes to Visit Greenville

As first seen here on local family site, Kidding Around Greenville...

Any history buffs or airplane enthusiasts in your bunch? In one week three historic WWII planes will be landing at the downtown Greenville airport as part of the Commemorative Air Force (CAF) Fighters & Bombers tour. The B-25 “Miss Mitchell,” a P-51 “Red Nose” and an SBD-5 Dauntless dive bomber will be on display from May 5^th through the 7^th as part of a five-stop tour to commemorate the 75^th anniversary of the Doolittle Raid over Japan. Many aircraft were scrapped for aluminum after the war, and so it is uncommon to find restored WWII planes that are still flight-worthy 70 years later; this is your chance to see not one, but three notorious aircraft up close!

The planes!

The North American B-25 Mitchell is an American twin-engine, medium bomber named in honor of aviation pioneer Major General William "Billy" Mitchell. The B-25B was the bomber used in the Doolittle Raid four months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor, and although the damage inflicted during the raid was relatively minor, the mission forced the Japanese to divert troops for home defense for the remainder of the war.

The North American Aviation (NAA) P-51 Mustang is an American long-range, single-seat fighter and fighter-bomber used during World War II and the Korean War. During WWII the US P-51s carried out more than 213,873 missions, destroying 4,950 enemy aircraft – almost 50% of the total losses suffered by the enemy.

The SBD was developed before WWII, and although it was considered obsolete when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, it was the 1^st American combat aircraft to shoot down a Japanese Zero fighter, and is considered to have helped turn the tide of WWII at the Battle of Midway on June 4, 1942.

Tour info!

The hours of this event are as follows: Friday May 5^th 12:00pm – 5:00pm, Saturday May 6^th 9:00am- 5:00pm and Sunday May 7^th 9:00am- 5:00pm. While there is no charge to view the aircraft, rides are only available by purchase. For pricing and more information, please visit the CAF Fighters & Bombers Tour website.

Parking will be available near the Runway Cafe ramp of the Greenville Downtown Airport (GMU), located on Airport Road Extension in Greenville. Plan on spending some time at the aviation-themed playground during your visit, and if you get hungry, the Runway Café has a kids menu… Check out my posts Aviation Park at GMU and Watching the planes posts for more on that!

The Commemorative Air Force (CAF) is a non-profit organization, established with the purpose of restoring and flying WWII aircraft. The organization is based in Dallas, TX, and operates a fleet of more than 166 aircraft, the world’s largest flying museum. To learn more about CAF’s mission to educate the present and future generations visit their website. GMU has also been host to WWII planes during the Colling Foundation Wings of Freedom tour; for more on that please see my post WWII Bombers in Greenville. 

Antietam

Lauris announced that “it was the bloodiest day of the Civil War.” I had to look it up, because somehow it seemed that Gettysburg held that title, but Lauris was right; the bloodiest one day battle in American history occurred at Antietam, with 23,000 soldiers killed, wounded or missing after twelve hours of combat on September 17, 1862. (In comparison, Gettysburg involved the largest number of casualties in a single battle, however, those 46,000 - 51,000 were casualties during three days of battle.) The Battle of Antietam ended the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia's first invasion into the North, and led to the issuance of the preliminary Emancipation Proclamation by Abraham Lincoln.

The Antietam Maryland Monument

As common with the National Battlefields, the Visitor Center is a good place to start your visit. In addition to securing a map of the driving tour of the battlefield, the exhibits and movies provide a needed refresher for those of us who last discussed Antietam in high school some twenty years ago. Plus there’s a good view from the second floor, providing a sort of bird’s-eye-view of the immediate vicinity of the Cornfield & West Woods, and Bloody Lane. The latter also has an observation tower, with a different perspective and a slightly different view.

Titled: miniature cannons behind a large cannon

The self-guided 8 ½ mile auto tour features 11 stops, and begins at the Dunker Church. Built in 1852, this German Baptist church became a focal point for Union attacks the morning of the battle. We stopped at the North Woods where Union Gen. Hooker’s men spent the night before the engagement at Poffenberger farm. We paused at the Cornfield, 24-acres that saw over 60% casualties for some brigades. And then the West Woods, where in 20 minutes over 2,200 Union soldiers were killed or wounded.

Cornfield

Such incredible numbers, and so hard to comprehend with blue skies overhead, green grass underfoot, the first spring roadside flowers blooming.

Recently Lauris asked “why do we only visit battlefields?” I reflected and realized we have spent considerable time at historical sites such as Richmond, Petersburg, Chickamauga and Chattanooga, even though interspersed with parks and scenic areas. This surprised me, as I’m really not a history buff; I prefer unique geological formations, impressive views, and bird/flower/nature-watching over signs about events that unfolded years ago. After thinking about it, my answer to his question was, that I'm trying to provide each family member with engagement during our travels (history for Roberts, nature for me, education & exercise for the boys). The emphasis on battlefields has been unintentionally heavy recently, but in my defense the battlefields often contain a bit of everything, including the nature & solitude that I'm craving. I’ll have to think about his point on future trips – I want a healthy balance, and it might be time to give the battlefields a rest.

Near the Roulette Farm

At Mumma Farm and Cemetery we took a hike. The easy, 1 mile Antietam TRACK trail loop features interpretive exhibits about the Mumma and Roulette Farms as it traverses the fields, streamside, woodland and pond habitats. The boys enjoyed a small break from more serious discussions to enjoy the quiet of the countryside: the small creek, a stone wall, the cows.

Roulette Farm

Back on the driving tour you’ll pass the stop where the Union armies advanced, and soon you’ll reach Bloody Lane. Once known as Sunken Road, this is the spot where 2,200 Confederates held off nearly 10,000 Union soldiers for three hours before falling back to the Piper Farm.

Crossing over Highway 34 the tour continues to Lower Bridge and the scene of the Final Attack, before ending at the Antietam National Cemetery. At first the Union dead were buried where they fell on the battlefield, but later they were re-interred on this hill along with soldiers who died in hospitals or combat in the region. Confederate soldiers were buried in Hagerstown & Frederick MD, and Shepherdstown VA (now WV).

Mumma Cemetery

Back to September 17, 1862; the battle ended about 6pm with no major shift in the lines of battle. Of the 100,000 troops involved, about 23,000 lay dead, wounded or missing. Late the next evening Gen. Robert E. Lee forded the Potomac to Virginia, and ultimately, the field was left to the Union Army.

The surrender at Appomattox Courthouse wouldn’t come for another 2 ½ years….