Keowee Toxaway and Natural Bridge Trail

We woke up yesterday morning to rain, the first steady drizzle that we’ve seen in the Upstate in about three months. The ¼ inch we received from Hurricane Matthew combined with the ¼ inch or so we received yesterday will not be enough to pull us out of drought, but it might be enough to give some help to the firefighters trying to contain the wildfire burning up on Table Rock, which yesterday stood at around 2,000 acres. The residential evacuation order for those living in the Pinnacle Mountain area has been lifted; containment lines seem to be holding, although we will know more today as overnight progress is evaluated.

Table Rock on the day the Pinnacle Mountain Fire broke out

The fire started Tuesday, prompting trail closures within Table Rock State Park including Table Rock Trail. The kids and I had retreated to the mountains on Election Day for a couple of hikes, and I wasn’t surprised to hear a fire had broken out; the entire area is tinderbox dry. Although we made a stop at Table Rock (but luckily nowhere near Pinnacle Mountain!), there wasn’t any smoke visible and the lack of firefighters makes me think the fire either hadn’t started or hadn’t been discovered yet. We were actually en route from our second hike of the day to Pumpkintown Mountain Opry for a late lunch before heading home. Our first hike had been in Nine Times Preserve where the hardwoods were bursting with color and the morning air crisp with the promise of cooler weather to come, but our second hike was chosen more due to proximity (though there was some fall color to be seen).

On the Natural Bridge Trail

Keowee-Toxaway State Park is one of the eight South Carolina State Parks located along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (Hwy. 11) and the edge of the Blue Ridge Escarpment. Known for the views of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the 1,000 acre park is considered a gateway to the Jocassee Gorges. The Park Visitor Center houses exhibits about the region's natural diversity, history and importance as a scientific research destination. If you’re looking to check out the Visitor Center be advised that office hours are 11am to noon and 4-5pm. Despite these rather short hours, the Park is open Saturdays through Thursdays from 9am-6pm and Fridays 9am to 8pm. (And if you’re participating in the Ultimate Outsider program, the stamp can be found on the orientation kiosk at the entrance to the main parking lot so that you don’t have to visit while the Visitor Center is open.)

  

The Park is split by Highway 11, with picnic shelters located on a short loop to the south, and the campgrounds, Visitor Center and hiking trails on the north side. We drove by the rental cabin overlooking Lake Keowee and parked for a few minutes to take in the view. The ½ mile trail that departs from the campground emerges from the woods nearby, allowing guests to reach the Lake to fish and recreate. Returning to the Visitor Center we parked and packed up for the Natural Bridge Trail loop.

A lollipop loop, the trail takes visitors over a natural rock bridge and through the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. At the far end of the loop is the Raven Rock trailhead, that combined with the Natural Bridge loop provide for a 4.4-mile hike past rock outcrops, views of Lake Keowee, and Raven Rock. Meanwhile Natural Bridge Trial makes for a 1.3-mile hike, with views of the natural rock formation and several small waterfalls on Poe Creek.

We elected to hike the loop clockwise, starting off with the more strenuous section along the creek. Several up-and-downs took us past numerous small waterfalls, the first of which was off a spur trail to the left. Soon we came to Keowee Falls, meriting a second stop to explore.

After rock-hopping across the creek we reached yet another small spur trail, this time to the right just opposite the Raven Rock trail. This would have been a perfect place to stop for a picnic had we brought one!

Then, rather abruptly we reached the natural rock bridge. The trail crosses it, the exposed rock and drop-off on either side the give-away that you’re standing over the creek. We took our time exploring the bridge area, climbing giant rocks, peering under overhangs, and playing peek-a-boo under the bridge.

  

The remainder of the trail parallels the road, the sounds of traffic replacing that of rushing water on the first half of the hike. With fewer places to stop and explore we made good time on the way back, and soon enough closed the loop before finally emerging in the parking lot.

This is a really nice spring hike, as the wildflowers, mountain laurel and rhododendron are blooming. Or a summer hike, when the hot temperatures allow for splashing in Poe Creek. Autumn and winter have their benefits (most significantly empty spots in the small parking lots, and less traffic on the trail), but if it wasn’t for hiking in Nine Times Preserve that morning, we probably would have headed to Table Rock instead. As it was, it was fortuitous that we ended up where we did, even though by the time the Pinnacle Mountain fire posed any danger to visitors the trails had been closed. Keeping my fingers crossed for more rain – it isn’t just the firefighters that need it.

* Please see my previous post on the Pinnacle Mountain Fire. Historically the Southern Appalachians burn in times of drought, and although wildfire can be alarming when threatening lives and property, the fire is mostly burning on State Park lands and will have positive impacts on our forests.

The Pinnacle Mountain Fire

It’s more than a hint of woodsmoke in the air the last couple of days as haze from forest fires in western North Carolina, northeastern Georgia and southeast Tennessee drifts into South Carolina. In addition, a fire is burning in Table Rock State Park on Pinnacle Mountain, the smoke socking in Greenville last night. The South Carolina Forestry Commission has reported that the fire is up to 250 acres since it started on Tuesday. The 30 firefighters putting in handline were pulled off the line yesterday due to the steep terrain and worsening conditions, but will be back at work today along with additional crews and SC National Guard helicopters, which are being used for bucket drops from nearby Lake Oolenoy. Firefighters from the SC Forestry Commission, the SC DNR, local volunteer fire departments and the Pickens County Strike Team are working together to contain the fire which was started accidentally by a campfire near the Foothills Trail. The blaze had been almost completely contained until winds picked up Wednesday night, part of the arrival of the cold front that helped push the haze into South Carolina.

Source: SC DNR on twitter

The fire ban has been extended to the entire northern half of the state due to "... extremely low relative humidities, which, combined with dry fuels on the ground, create the potential for outdoor fires escaping easily and spreading rapidly.” Five counties are included in that ban – Anderson, Oconee, Pickens, Greenville and Spartanburg – which prohibits outdoor burning of debris and burning for agricultural, forestry or wildlife purposes.

Source: SC Forestry Commission here

As ominous as all this sounds, the situation in Pickens County is really quite mild when compared to the current fires in North Carolina. Historically the Southern Appalachians burn during drought years, and controlled burns are often conducted in the particular area that is currently burning to lower fuel loads. The fire will open up the canopy and clear the way for new growth.

source: SC Forestry Commission here

Table Rock Trail and Pinnacle Trail have been closed in addition to the 10-mile section of the Foothills Trail between Table Rock and Sassafras Mountain, but otherwise the State Park remains open. Call 864-878-9813 or email tablerock@scprt.com for trail updates, and watch the fire in real-time on the SC Parks webcam here. 

A smoke sunset from Bald Rock Heritage Area, photographed by Monique R.

Update November 14, 2016: The Pinnacle Mountain Fire is now at 2,180 acres, and only 20% contained. With 140 personnel on the fire (including 8 engines and 2 helicopters), the estimated containment date is November 24th. No structures have been lost. (Source: NIFC.gov)

Update November 16, 2016: Now 35% contained, at about 3,283 acres in size. Firefighters are preparing for a 2,000 acre burnout on Thursday, which will hopefully enable the fire to be contained before the cold front this weekend that will bring high winds and lower humidity.

Source: here

Update November 18, 2016: Crew conducted a 1,400-acre burnout on the east side, in preparation for a cold front moving through along with high winds. A helicopter lit both sides of Table Rock, resulting in a low-intensity burn. Meanwhile ground crews conducted backburns from the firebreaks. The Pinnacle Mountain Fire is now 5,095 acres and 35% contained.

Update November 20, 2016: High winds allowed the fire to breach the northern line and make a run for Rocky Mountain. 5,400 acres and still onlyl 34% contained.

Update November 22, 2016: The Pinnacle Mountain Fire has grown to 6,000 acres as the portion that breached the north line continues to spread. Additional hand crews have joined containment efforts on this portion of the fire.

Update November 24, 2016: Burnout operations to strengthen the containment lines on the north side of the fire today were not completely successful due to showers in the morning. However, the rain did assist in slowing fire spread, and as a dozer line goes in south from White Oak Mountain, the fire is held west of Slickum Falls Rd and the Table Rock Reservoir. Currently, the fire is listed as 7,300 acres and 40% contained.

Nine Times Preserve

We ‘elected’ to go for a hike yesterday, and found ourselves just off the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (11) in Pickens County at Nine Times Preserve on Nine Times Creek. Named for the nine bridges built across the small, trout-filled creek to gain access to the property, the 560-acre nature preserve is one of the most biologically significant properties in the southeast. Located on the Blue Ridge Escarpment (where the Blue Ridge Mountains meet the Piedmont), three mountains are within the boundaries of Nine Times Preserve – and we hiked right in the heart of it all!

The Preserve is well known for its seasonal show of wildflowers, 134 species documented in the seven forest types. While we saw a few autumn flowers still hanging on, the real show this time of year was the colorful fall foliage. One hike that really showcases this gorgeous season is the 1.6 mile Rocky Bald Loop.

The name of the trail is a bit misleading. One of the unique plant communities within the Nine Times area is that of the rock outcrop, and the granite dome in Nine Times Forest is considered the most botanically intact example in the Southern Blue Ridge Escarpment. But while the Rocky Bald trail does scale the side of Rocky Bald Mountain, it does not include the actual summit, nor does it include any outcrops; nonetheless it is a gorgeous hike, and I especially recommend it for families due to the reasonable length and moderate difficulty.

We chose to hike the loop clockwise, parking at the Rocky Bald Parking Area (use 1750 E Preston McDaniel Rd. Pickens, SC 29671 for mapping software). The pull-off fits a handful of cars, but on this gorgeous autumn day we were the only ones there. You’ll find a large map at the kiosk, and the trail takes off behind it; it’s well-traveled, and although not blazed, it is easy to follow, orange arrows pointing the way at a couple of turns.

The first ½ mile ascends Cedar Rock Mountain through a series of switchbacks. Rated moderate, the trail does have some altitude gain to it; however it was nothing that my boys couldn’t handle with a couple of stops for water and snacks. We made quick work of the first section and soon reached the ‘waterfall.’

With the lack of rain these past months there was no water to be seen in any of the drainages we crossed on our visit; however after a rain this would be a pretty spot. We rested for a minute or two and continued on, soon coming to the intersection of Rocky Bald Loop Trail and Cedar Rock Trail. If we had taken a left we would have climbed up almost to the summit of Cedar Rock Mountain, and then descended on the other side down to the Cedar Rock Parking Area at Nine Times Rd. & E. Preston McDaniel.

Instead we continued on our loop trail, dropping down into a drainage before gaining altitude as we approached Rocky Bald. Soon after starting the descent, the trail hits an old roadbed which it follows for the remainder of the hike. One more slow ascent soon tops out, and then it’s a steep descent back down to Nine Times Creek and E. Preston McDaniel Rd. (To close the loop you’ll have to hike a few hundred feet on the road, but wide, grassy shoulders allow for safe hiking.) While we didn’t see any of the resident black bears or peregrine falcons that call the Preserve their home, we did see some coyote scat which made for lively discussions on the way home.

The gate at E. Preston McDaniel

Nine Times Preserve is a rather recent addition to the Upstate’s recreation areas. Upstate Forever purchased the property in 2007, selling it to the Nature Conservancy in 2009. Trails were installed in the winter of 2012, and today almost three miles of trail exist: Rocky Bald Loop Trail, 1.1 mile Cedar Rock Trail and the ¼ mile Trillium Trail that is located on the creek on the north end of the property (note to self: return next spring!).

The Nature Conservancy owns the Preserve while it is managed by the South Carolina Department of Natural Resources. A designated state Wildlife Management Area, fishing and hunting is allowed on the property – see the DNR website for more information. This means that the area is open to hunters during October, November and April. For safety it is important to wear orange while hiking during hunting season.

For a downloadable map, trail descriptions and more, please visit the Nature Conservancy Nine Times Preserve website here.

The Rim of the Gap

That’s all she wrote! Autumn is running out of leaves to paint, and her artwork is finally dropping from the trees here in the Upstate after a long and unseasonably warm October. We love visiting the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area this time of year, Caesars Head State Park and Bald Rock Heritage Area providing scenic views of the vibrant fall foliage, and this weekend headed up for one more adventure before the branches are once more bare. While the boys explored their favorite spots (and stopped for lunch off Highway 11), I hit the Rim of the Gap Trail.

Rim of the Gap is the perfect challenge this time of year. While there are still plenty of colorful leaves on the hardwoods in the gap to provide a patchwork of color for your viewing pleasure, enough leaves have dropped so that you can see the gap through the canopy. Temperatures are cool enough to dry off the sweat from what is a strenuous hike, but most likely it is not cold enough for the trail to be closed (freezing temperatures make for dangerous sections and make for seasonal trail closures, usually December through February). And while leaves on the trail can result in a slower, more deliberate hike, they also provide an intense show of color on the ground, one that makes for some spectacular leaf finds while your eyes are down on the trail. The only drawback to hiking this time of year was that between it being the dry season and our summer-long drought, the waterfalls were mere trickles. However, it was amazing at how much water was still seeping from the rock walls along the way, the dozens of species of mosses a testament to the moisture on this trail even during an extremely dry period.

"Sluice of the Rim"

Rim of the Gap (#6, yellow blaze) stretches 4.3 miles from Caesars Head State Park to Jones Gap State Park, is rated very strenuous, and has an estimated travel time of 4-5 hours. To complete the distance to Caesars Head, one must also hike a portion of the Frank Coggins Trail (#15, purple blaze), an easy lollipop loop that adds about ¾ of a mile to the hike. I chose to start on Frank Coggins at Caesars Head, as this meant a descent from 2,800’ to 1,400’ in elevation. To reach the trailhead from the ranger station, hikers must cross US 276, sign in at the trailhead & pay the State Park fee, and proceed north.

The Frank Coggins Trail

The first branch off the wide gravel road is the Coldspring Connector Trail (#7, blue blaze) which cuts down to the drainage and Coldspring Branch Trail. Keeping right at this junction to stay on Frank Coggins Trail, another ¼ of a mile or so later you’ll reach the loop portion of the hike. I went left to reach the Rim of the Gap Trail, but you can always go right and add a few tenths of a mile to your hike. The Naturaland Trust Trail also departs from the Coggins Loop, taking you 5.8 miles to the bridge over Raven Cliff Falls and the Foothills Trail.

Galax has a pecuilar odor where it grows in large colonies - some describe it as wet socks, others as a faint, sickly smell. However, it is fairly common on the shady slopes of the Southern Appalachians.

Just past Cliff Falls I turned left on the Rim of the Gap Trail. Immediately the trail narrowed, started a zigzag and switchback-full route along the gap, and steepened in its descent. After several different view of the Falls the trail turns east to parallel the Middle Saluda River.

It isn’t just the climb in elevation that rates this trail as strenuous, although this will triple the challenge if you are headed east to west. For sure there are some steep sections, but most don’t last more than a hundred feet or so; instead it is the sheer difficulty of the trail that gets the adrenaline flowing. Scrambling up and down boulders, crossing bridges, inching along what can be a very narrow trail (with sheer drops on one side) and even crawling through a tunnel made by a fallen boulder at one point, the 2-mile section of trail between Coggins and John Sloan Trail are exciting and rather demanding.

Known as Weight Watchers Rock, this narrow passage required me to remove my pack to squeeze through; do you see the hole just above the yellow blaze?

Throughout this section of the hike there was almost always a view of Jones Gap to the north, but it wasn’t a panoramic view; instead it was bits and pieces through the trees & different perspectives around each corner, with longer views up and down the Gap visible from some small spur-trails or rocky perches.

To the south was often a wall of solid rock, with a few small waterfalls here and there crossing drainages. There is a huge chunk of private property dividing the trail from US 276, and you might catch a glimpse of a home or tree stand in this portion if you pay attention. 

It took me 2.5 hours to travel this two-mile section, while I completed the trail in a total of 3.5. Up until this point I had been hiking in the shade of the ridge, the autumn sun low in the sky throwing its light on the colorful display of the opposite side of the Gap. At the point where the trail was finally close enough to the ridgetop for the sun to shine through was where the trail shifted up to follow the ridgeline. As it shadowed an old road bed there were some views toward the Oil Camp Creek drainage, and the beautiful hardwood forest was just radiant in the afternoon light.

After passing the two spur trails that cut across to Pinnacle Pass Trail – the #21 John Sloan Trail (pink blaze) and the #22 6&20 Connector Trail (purple blaze) – the trail once more narrows as it begins its steep descent into the Gap, down to the Middle Saluda and the Jones Gap Ranger Station. One final intersection announces the approach of the end of the hike; Pinnacle Pass Trail (#20, white blaze), the 10-miler that loops around to climb Little Pinnacle Mountain before descending to Oil Camp Creek and then climbing back up to hook into Naturaland Trust Trail. Soon a black ribbon of road is visible, and rather abruptly the trail ends on the Jones Gap Trail (#1, blue blaze). A left will take you to past Jones Gap Falls to the Raven Cliff Falls trailhead (5.3 miles), while a right will take you to the Ranger Station, the parking lot and Hospital Rock Trail.

While all the trails are clearly blazed, several of the intersections could possibly be easily missed as they rather suddenly cut off; make sure to keep an eye on the blazes. While the infamous cable crossings have been replaced with bridges, the extremely narrow trail and steep scrambles up, down and around boulders mean I will not be bringing the boys with on this hike anytime soon. Reports of a cougar in the area, although not substantiated (nor acknowledged by SC Park Service Rangers), should still be taken into consideration; meanwhile, black bears, bobcat and coyotes definitely inhabit the area. Finally, to make a loop out of what is essentially a one-way route, hikers could utilize the Jones Gap Trail to Coldspring Branch Trail (and the Coldspring Connector to Frank Coggins) for a total of about 9 miles. Plan to be off the trail well before dark (during my visit trails close at 6pm) and be aware of seasonal closures.

For a very short look at one of the narrow sections of trail, here is a video of a typical section of trail…

This is the Mountain Bridge Wilderness Area map that I use. In addition to the corresponding blaze colors and mileages to each numbered trail, it also features difficulty ratings and estimated travel times. The map, current information, camping permits and guidelines can be obtained from the Caesars Head or Jones Gap State Park ranger stations.

The Cubs Fly the W!

I don’t know much about baseball, but here is what I do know:

1. I’m from Chicago, and the Cubs are my team.

(and that of my cousins, who headed to Wrigleyville Sunday - lucky ducks!) 

2. They play at Wrigley Field, the oldest stadium in the National League (1914). Formerly known as Weeghman Park and Cubs Park, it’s been Wrigley since 1927. I prefer chewing gum over “Guaranteed Rate Field” – come on, Comiskey!

3. In 1906 the Chicago Cubs won a record 116 games before losing the World Series to the Chicago White Sox, and then in 1907 & 1908 they won it all, becoming the 1st Major League team to play in three consecutive World Series (and the 1st to win it twice)….

4. …and the Cubbies haven’t won a World Series since. That’s 108 years, the record for longest period without a World Series championship.

5. The first three games of the 1945 World Series were played in Detroit, the last four in Chicago. During game four Wrigley ejected Billy Sianis who had come to the game with two box seat tickets – one for him and one for his goat. And so was born the Curse of the Billy Goat when Mr. Sianis uttered, “The Cubs, they ain’t gonna win no more.”

6. Black cats, wet gloves, Steve Bartman… the curse continues despite Billy Sianis himself attempting to reverse it.

7. Fast forward to the year I was born, when Harry Caray became sportscaster for the Cubs. His tradition of singing “Take Me Out to the Ball Game” during the seventh-inning stretch has continued after Caray's death, with guest celebrities occasionally singing along to Caray on the jumbotron. For example, Eddie Vedder on game five…

8. …which was the first World Series win at Wrigley in 71 years.

9. At the end of the 1991 season Harry Caray said; “Well, a lot of things happened today, and they were all great and they were all thrilling and they were all dramatic… Sure as God made green apples, someday, the Chicago Cubs are going to be in the World Series — and maybe sooner than you think.”

10. Yesterday, Addison Russell’s grand slam (bottom of the 3^rd) was the first in the World Series since Game 2, 2005, and the first ever by the Cubs in the World Series.

Which all brings me to this – tonight is the night. Will the Curse of the Billy Goat be finally reversed? Will my boys forever know Zobrist as zobirste? Will the W fly once more?

All right! Lemme hear ya! Ah-One! Ah-Two! Ah-Three! Take me out to the ballgame, take me out with the crowd; buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack, I don't care if I never get back.Let me root, root, root for the Cubbies, if they don't win, it's a shame. For it's one, two, three strikes, you're out, at the old ball game! Let's get some runs!